dlaing

Here is the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=7290&hl=

The closed throttle reading of 150mv is done with linkage disconnected, set screws backed out and choke fully withdrawn, so it is not the same as at idle. IMHO the TPS should be set to 150mv FULLY closed. At idle I don't think the TPS should be adjusted, but the idle should be set so that the TPS falls into the 485-550mv range. One can tweak the TPS a little and probably get a better result, but too much and you may be asking for trouble. Higher numbers generally run richer, so people are drawn to them like flies to manure. The range being 485-515 or 500-550 is also not a settled issue as it appears to vary by bike. There is much more room for variation at idle. At 150mv the butterfly is simply closed. At idle valve rocker adjustment, engine condition, throttle body condition, exhaust design, ECU trim, veglia reading, and more add up to a lot of possible variation. But it is quicker to set at idle. I think once you set to 150 disconnected and then find an ideal at idle setting, you can repeat it.

That may be true about the compression????? There is a change in piston/cylinder part numbers but I think it is occured much earlier, as the change appears in the pre-2002 parts catalog 2003 was a transition year and part numbers might not have made it to the 2003 parts catalog where there is no sign of higher compression or enhanced oil cooling/lubing. I have not found a 2004 parts catalog. Not sure what you mean about the Griso headers. They are two into one, not two into one into two, right?

Often photos and video will trigger the reaction of "why don't you put the camera down and help?!??!?!?!?!!!" Just watch YouTube a bit and you will see many examples. When I saw the bike lying there I had the same immediate reaction as Richard, but then I thought about it and realized a few minutes of time was not critical to the bike's survival. I am sure we can cut Richard some slack, and the photographer too. People have different ways of handling stressful situations. I remember once laughing as our family car slid out of control and drove 50 feet into the woods before being stopped by the young trees. If I did it again, I don't think I would laugh and I might have the repressed urge to slap the fool who laughed. Different experiences and different reactions. I know I can't fathom Richard's or John Henry's losses, but I sure do empathize. Why can't we all just get along?

They also raised engine compression in the models with the front crossover. But yah the gains are small and could have simply been a variation of state of tune. Losing the 4-5k hole is certainly a good thing, but having exhaust leaks and cracks there does not seem to be worth the trade off.

Yep, I would not trust rebuilding that caliper. But as to the cause, I would most likely blame dirty or damaged seals and not a loose fluid line. Glad it did not cause an accident.

Gimme a break, this ain't no freaking paparazzi that needs to be grimaced at or have camera smashed. If anything the photos provide evidence for insurance claims and more importantly let us see the tragedy in a way that words cannot describe, so that many of us are moved to help. Would I grimace at the photographer? Maybe, but the photographer does not deserve it because they are doing a good thing, just the often unwelcome news photographers in politically sensitive places. Maybe the man grimacing was just sad and not spiteful. I know if you really felt the photos were so bad you would have censored them. Please don't shoot the messenger. EDIT sorry if that sounds harsh. I just don't think the photographer deserves the criticism, but I also understand the urge to criticize the photographer....

Mine is better now, I think... The first seal that went was the big one. But just to be sure I replaced the small seal, but I put it in backwards so it leaked, then I flipped it around but when I drove the bearing home I crushed it, so it leaked. I then got another seal and asked the forum how to install but nobody answered, so I drove the bearing in part way assuming that when bolted down it would drive it in "just enough" and it seemed to work. But something is getting on the tire that looks like rubber dust. I thought it might be cush rubber but others doubt it. One nice thing about redline SP heavy is the tell tale red color. For me it is now gone. Good thing those seals are cheap, and I am glad the sealing surface is not corroding, although near the big seal there is some rust.

The Catylostomy sack o' tin might just give it enough back pressure to work nicely. Still balanced stereo output is the way to go in my opinion.

dynocharts have shown the newer engine to have more mid-range. I don't recall if the low end also benefits. The high end was about the same. I am surprised there really have not been many comparisons made. Maybe in this thread EDIT Motoguzznix post 52 looks interesting http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=compression

I think Pierre was the one telling me his carbed sport got better gas mileage than his sporti, but the sporti made better power. Not sure about driveability, but I know he went through a few chips on the Sporti. The Quat-D is more difficult to tune around. I could loan you some stock mufflers if you want to try. You will lose mid-range, get more top end, and the bike will probably be more driveable, but less fun.

Although it is more likely the ground, if your headlight goes out when the tach goes out, you will know it is the relay, so it is easier to check then a bad ground. Note that if that relay is going out, then your charging system will also go out, possibly causing turn signals to weaken, etc. Regardless, you might consider the headlight relay conversion where you run a direct hot and ground to the battery and put a couple relays in the headlight bucket to send more better power to the lamp, bypassing most of the current past the notorious starter relay. Come to think of it, my Tach may flutter less since I did the relay bypass surgery???? But could just be wishful thinking

Ah, you do have sensabilities! Sorry, I thought I smelled the stench of a divorcee picked apart by (a) vulture(s). Maybe I am the one that needs a deodorant strong enough for a man, but made for corpse rotting by the side of the road But really my first marriage wasn't that bad, so Ryan don't let me scare you off. Stay away from the Gingers and Mariannes, because life is too short, go get yourself a rebellious nymphomaniac with tons of issues, like Wynona Rider. Ratchet, stop chasing the Gingers and get yourself a Marianne. You won't regret it. (except on weekends)

Are you sure you not describing your own marriage, Ratchet?

Nah, he is fed up with the mechanics of Tijuana. In another post: "i had the same problem , and toke the bike to the shop, i live in Tijuana medico , so the mechanics really suck, i toke it to 3 different ones , nothing work until i change the exhaust because one was damage and it stop,so ... its was the exhaust !!check the gaps on the slip on part!! of you just tide it up it probably wont do a lot , they half a welding point take it of and redo it." No need to add insult to a frustrated Guzzi owner. One doesn't pick up from the tone of his message that he was humbled by toasting his gearbox, but he is not the master of prose that Ratchet is. I can only assume that he is upset with himself for making the mistake, and knows full well that he is not the best mechanic in Tijuana. I am just glad he chose law and not surgery to study and practice. (sorry, I guess I too insulted Penat)

From the wanted ad: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11969&hl= I figure he needs feedback and more exposure if he is gonna get any luck.

Yes the QuatD made the bike more fun to ride but stole power over 6000RPMS. The newer ones are better. I failed to follow Ratchet's advice to ignore dyno charts and traded to the Mistrals that gave it alot more HP over 6000RPM. My mistake. I should have stayed with the Quat-D even if it stole the high rpm power. The Quat-D exbox IS filled with magic....but that does not mean that like the cush rubbers, it cannot be made better. I think a two into one into two design would be better than the two into one design. Stereo sounds better than mono, and I know it would help it make more peak HP than the Quat-D version that I had.

Ratchet is right, I agree with Ben. I started this thread a few years ago and it is outdated, but probably answers part of the question....... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=mufflers

What dreadful recommendations Keep the revs above 3000? Mine puts along fine between 2500 and 3000. Maybe It'll hurt the engine, but I doubt it as it is not straining. Use a heavy flywheel? You must be joking, or would you care to explain how taking the bike apart and installing a heavier flywheel is a more viable solution? Maybe for the Scura owners out there. Pull the clutch only when you really need it? How does that cause a problem? Clutchless shifts beat the splines much more than clutched shifts, despite what the proponents of clutchless shifts will tell you. Go buy another bike? This phrase has been iterated so many times on this forum by those who refuse to improve this bike. What would be the logic of buying a high revving four when I like to cruise below 3000 RPM. If anything I should get a Buell or a BMW with a broader torque band, but I think they too require cush drives. The Buell probably has too much vibration and a LOUSY gear box and the BMW the wrong vibrational rhythm. Maybe if Honda brought back the V Twin like the CX500 but made it a torquey 100RWHP multivalve CX1500, and built it so it wasn't in the land fill after 50,000 miles. The Guzzi is a marvelous product of EVOLUTION. If some pre-darwinians want to keep it in the 20th century, go ahead. No body is forcing you to improve it. As for me, I welcome every reasonable opportunity to improve it.

I know you think I should do it before my next tire change, but I really am not in a hurry. So, sit back and sip a cold one.

I suppose we could pull half the accelleration and half the deceleration pucks out, replace them with plasticene and see how much they compress. We can then determine how much force they must endure and design something that will compress optimally within the given range.

I forget which fittiing I used, but it was one that wedged in nice and bit will enough to get it out.

Rather than post a new topic, I thought I would ask here as I am using the LSU 4.2 with Innovate LM-1: Where are people mounting the sensor? I think it has been asked before, but I am having trouble and I suspect it is too cold. I tried the sensor on the left and the right, thinking that maybe one side had and air leak, bad valves or something, but both read very high (lamda of about 3, AFR of about 40-50 and fluctuating inconsistently. I have seen some good numbers at idle if I let it get pretty hot, then open the air bypass screw about three turns which gives me 15:1 AFR. I can then screw it in to about one turn out, which bring the AFR to about 14:1, but if I try to go richer than that the numbers jump back up to 40 or 50 to one ratio. It holds pretty steady between 14 and 15 at idle, but blipping the throttle makes it jump back up, and I have to let it idle, move air screw out, and then back in. Weird... My guess is that sensor is too cold and engine is running too rich to get a good reading. I checked for intake leaks with propane method. I physically felt for exhaust leaks and it seems fine, but there is a carbon puff mark at the clamp to the crossover. I bought the LM-1 with RPM kit and Bosch sensor second hand on eBay. My other guess is that the sensor is bad. But it passes every test... Calibration seems to work with 20.9 appearing. I breathe on it and it reacts dropping below 20.9 (don't burn your lips if you try this). I aim an unlit propane torch at it and it drops close to 14.7:1 (this indicates it is functioning correctly) Here is the placement:

I'll have to check mine against TuneBoy. My workshop manual says 3.2-3.6° in one place and 3.6±0.5° in another place. But they say to set TPS with linkage disconnected to 150±15mv and to set the higher number with the set screws, not at the TPS. From MPH's chart that translate to about 475-525mv and 463-587mv If 3.6° = 485 then they would translate to about 435-485mv and 423-547mv MPH has other numbers here: http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/Technical2.htm 1060 +/-50 3.6 +/-.3° 1.90%CO 1/2 Turn air Slightly different than owner manual 1000-1100rpm 1.5%CO CO very different than workshop manual and