dlaing

I have experienced the same. Thanks for mentioning that. I was wondering if all the right cylinder idle vaccuums were stronger due to firing timing, but that puts an end to that theory. Although there must be some effect of timing on balance.

Getting over an accident can be challenging. My chicken strips grew after my accident 3 or 4 years ago. Fear can help prevent stupidity, but it can also paralyze you, inhibiting your becoming a better rider. Practicing not fixating on a target is tricky as the best practice comes from rare moments. Unless you want to be a racer, the best way around the track is not the fastest. Have fun out there and learn what you can. I'd love to do some track days, and get over my fears that are inhibiting my ability. I think it will make me safer on the sreet, as long as I don't get over confident. I'll bet you already feel better off the track after one track day.

Good point! Welcome to the forum! I am sure you know about Sonny Angel Motorcycles, north of the border. And http://socal-guzzi.com/PHPBB/ great place to hook up for rides. Sometimes we make it to Tecate for the beer garden And the more adventurous ride dual-purpose bikes in Baja. Good luck finding a Transmission. If you get one from a crash be sure to check mount points for cracks. You may want to post the add elsewhere, like Guzzitech and WildGuzzi.

I only do the 150mv reading about once per year. I do it with engine off not running, which gives a lower reading then the Carl Allison/Will Creedon method. I then reconnect linkage, balance high rpms (no need to go higher than 2500 RPMS) and with air screws open one turn (not sure if this is best way). The left side always pull harder than the right at idle when balanced at higher RPMs. I set idle to a compromise between 525mv unadjusted TPS and just over 1100 Veglia RPMs. I then go back to the balance, turning in the left air screw no more than half a turn(not sure if this is best, but I am afraid to have them too different.) Still I get the left pulling slightly harder at idle and right pulling slightly higher RPMS. So, I set the right set screw to hold the right open. When setting right set screw, watch the TPS reading. When it just starts to raise TPS, you are home. Then back out the left set screw half a turn or until idle balances. Check idle, if OK then you are done. It may take some going back and forth between balance and idle. Don't let engine get too hot. This method seems to work well for my bike as it may be a lemon and does not seem as well balanced as others who get it perfect by ignoring 150mv, air screws, and right set screw. I have tried the other methods of not using air screws and set screws to balance, but I don't trust such a large compromise between balance at various rpms.

3.6 degrees should be 525mv, unless some ECUs are different than others http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/tpsexcel3.htm

I suppose one could make holes, mushrooms and flying saucers out of urethane, but I don't want to discuss this as before you know it it could turn into a thread about the queen taking out princess Di because the Princess Di knew all about the Global Warming Fraud Conspiracy of the Queen and Al Gore and how BP was gonna make BILLIONS off of solar panels http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall

It is not what you want that you get. It is what you don't get that you want. If you had posted in the Tenni Forum you would have gotten green suede. If you had posted in Techtopia I would have suggested the drilled holes would have had spline shavings precisely embedded into seat using helicopter technology with silicone damping and a urethane sheathing. 24/7 V11 encompasses anything related to the V11, short of banter. I suspect you should have posted this in the banter forum. Perhaps you could request that a moderator move it and will happily retract my posts. BTW your clock is set to Bahia time....WTF

If it weren't for Ratchet, I'd only have 3000 posts

Hey! Watch it there buddy

Wind sock? If you have an external mike you can put it close to the exhaust outlet and wrap it up well in foam. But I have never done this, so just guessing it should work. BTW nice kudos from Innovate

That is what I do. Technically it may create turbulence, but I am not worried about it until someone proves it to be a problem. Some cap them off with rubber caps, but the caps can blow off from a mild backfire. You can also put a balance tube on but seal it so it does not balance. It may blow off, but at least it will dangle and you can reattach it if you notice it blew off.

I think I'll print this out and frame it. Classic Hatchet! PTL it ain't aimed at me this time I wonder if they hired Ratchet to break Jose Padilla?

While this is true, your statement below attacks all the fine Guzzi owners who have the common sense to value a bike more that makes more power. If the only thing we valued was maximum peak HP the Guzzi would not be in the game, and we would be lobbying Guzzi for a V8. But we, the enlightened Guzzi owners, have the sense to value peak power at every RPM, AND most of all, we value the marvelous V-Twin engine.

I know you did not ask me, but when have I been one to be muted. Something is wrong. Bad meter? bad reading? bad TPS? Test the TPS by reading it while turning the throttle. It should go smoothly from about 525mv at idle to just under 5000mv at WOT (wide open throttle) Mine is about 4850 at WOT, but exact number for WOT is not critical. which wires are you probing? I don't think Wayne ever finished the TuneBoy diagnostic software that would control the idle trim. We should pester him about it. Otherwise we need AxeOne, TR's VDSTS, or TR's MBDSTS. (hope I spelled those right)

"Japper" fours have nothing to do with it. Some of us Love Guzzis for reasons that are much greater than dyno output, but that does diminish the value of a bike with a consistently better dyno output. If brand new show room bikes were dyno'd and all else appeared identical, only a fool would choose the bike with the lower dyno result. Heck, I would pay extra for that bike, but I would question how they tuned the bike, dyno conditions, etc. It would be a valuable dealer prep service accompanied by the MotoMan dyno break in method. I am sure there would be people willing to save 100 dollars per missing torque pound for the runts of the litter, and some might pay 100dollars extra per above average pound of torque of the pedigree goose.

Excellent! Some might consider that too rich, but I'll bet you can tell that it probably rides better than ever.

Urethane foam will hold up well. Latex is no doubt cushy, but will deteriorate too quickly. Drill lots of holes in you cushion and "your ass will thank you" But buy a Rich Maund seat and your ass won't be lying when it thanks you. If you can find sheep's wool, you will be very well off, and your monkey butt will be cured as Ratchet's was cured. But real man just lay a quarter inch of neoprene over fiberglass I went shopping for wool and foam and the foam expert recommended foam carpet padding because of its firmness. I'll have to give it a try if I can't find any sheep to shear. Maybe I just grow a long beard and shear it off?

Interesting results. I would have thought the BMC would do better at peak HP and maybe the paper better at low RPM. It would be interesting to do the test halfway through the service life of the filters. It would also be interesting to find out what would happen if the map were built for the BMC filter instead of for the paper map. I think Todd Eagan did some tests comparing the K&N and the paper and found little difference in power output. But as Ratchet has posted, paper filters out dirt better than the K&N. Greg, didn't you also do a white glove test on the inside of a paper filtered airbox? Thanks for the post.

***** But forget the picturesque sweepers, I want to see the camera aimed simultaneously at the AFR meter, the throttle and the tachometer, so you can remap it Which wide band sensor do you have? I finally got my LM-1 hooked up, but the numbers are off the charts in the direction of lean. I hope it does not mean my engine needs work I don't think Temperature is the problem, as it did it from cold until the pipes started to glow a bit. Sensor is mounted to header pipe close to crossover. The whole unit including sensor is used, off eBay. I'll try rewiring it, as I may have a bad ground or something. TPS is reading well. RPM did not read right, so I have to rewire that. Disconnecting did not help.

What the heck, put V1200 dual valve in it and I'll take over a base model R1200. Put a 100+RWHP multivalve and I'll take it over the high end R1200S. I don't think they would save money putting either in a Sporti Spine frame with Sporti body work. Maybe the swing arm will raise the price $100... If they want to cut cost, release it with Italian suspension, and Cast alloy wheels, but I would be looking for the Ohlins equipped model, unless they could get the Italian stuff to work right out of the showroom, and forged wheels are probably also worth the extra money.

Yah, following the garden variety reverse centrifugal force I suppose it could be grease as Docc suggested. I switched to Mobil Synthetic grease recently. I guess it could turn from ruby red to coal black and dry out a bit. Maybe it has graphite of molybdenum in it and it spins its way out. It is somewhat greasy and looks an almost like mixture of graphite powder and oil. Could also be the thin oil of the grease separating out with centrifugal force and then picking up tire(as you suggested), brake and road dust

Me? the chronic procrastinator? I think not, but H8chains is a man of action. He hates chains you know, and if there is a flaw with the drive system, he has the passion and resolve to remedy it Pierre and I will be sure to keep him motivated. But you better take a chill pill because it may be months before I wear out my rear tire. And I doubt I'll find the ambition before then. Although tiny particles of rubber do seem to be spinning their way out of the wheel. Could this be the that indestructible rubber breaking down?

And just to be clear, the battery voltage of 12.7-12.8V will be higher immediately after charging or riding, so check it after a night of sitting. The charging voltage should be 14.0-14.5 vDC between 3000 and 8000 rpm with the stock regulator. Some of the aftermarket regulators may read a bit lower. And the voltage at idle and just above idle will be below 14.0V. I think mine drops below 13V at idle and my maximum Voltage is only 13.9V...I hope that is normal for my electrex regulator. It seems to charge the battery well if I ride two or more times per week.

Grrrrowl! I think it is a wiser decision than the new Buell in it's first year as a hyper-bike. But either would have been an awesome machine.

I saw that same lady months ago on a green V11S. Man, she is even hotter than those two Mormons that were hitting on us in Julian this past weekend