dlaing

You may be right, but according to Docc "the fix" is in the fuse connection. I think I was wrong to indicate it is a chicken or the egg problem as the bad connection seems to more likely be the seed of evil than the regulator. My guess is that the bad connection melts the fuse, possibly damages the fuse socket, and MAY damage the regulator too. But lost riding time is money, and so is a tow truck, so a new regulator might not be a bad idea. But we can help our rookie through the diagnosis. I like the idea of testing voltage drop before and after cleaning the fuse connection or bypassing the fuse socket with an inline fuse, as it might give a clear idea, of whether or not "the fix" worked. Also, if the voltage is out of range after "the fix" it will be a clear that the regulator needs replacing.

Here is a link to some typical silver conductive grease http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8463.html I used silicone grease for years, but apparently it is a mistake and silver grease is the thing to use. Just beware of cross contact contamination in multiplex connectors.

He is busy arranging for silicone experts for the documentary We told Mel that he could be executive producer, but we did not tell him that BFG would be the producer and director. I hope Mel is not upset

I hear she is into urethane and contemplating silicone:P

Cool! I really want to get a durometer reading on the pucks. Hydraulic damping could surely result in a great ride, if only if it could be done easily... We'll research and talk

Welcome to the forum! It is a bit of a chicken or the egg question as to what is the cause. I think it could be either or both or something else. Start by checking voltage output. You will need a voltage meter to test the regulator. Measure voltage at battery. Measure voltage difference between regulator and battery.(I am not sure what is acceptible, but 1V or more is surely a bad connection) Problem could also be battery. Here are workshop manuals with voltage specs, etc. ttp://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/print/print_moto_guzzi_misc_workshop_manuals.htm If the voltage is too high the battery and wires may cook. If battery or wires are cooked, it may cook the regulator.

Moi aussi, except your comment that a few thousand pounds having the ability to cut holes, has about as much to as the few pounds of force in a crossbow having the ability to cut hole. If you look at my futile attempt, you will see that it lines up nicely with Assuming my numbers that Ratchet slammed are correct, the maximum pressure might be 4000 PSI if I used two arms or had Barry Bonds' enhanced grip, 50% of that is 2000, givin a 50% margin of 6000 and I calculated bolt strength to be about 7000 static tensile pounds.

Brake out the ban hammer! ENJOY! Once again, The Washington Post has published the winning submissions to its yearly neologisms, in which readers are asked to supply alternate meanings for common words. The winners are: 1. Coffee (n.), the person upon whom one coughs. 2. Flabbergasted (adj.), appalled over how much weight you have gained. 3. Abdicate (v.), to give up all hope of ever having a flat stomach. 4. Esplanade (v.), to attempt an explanation while drunk. 5. Willy-nilly (adj.), impotent. 6. Negligent (adj.), describes a condition in which you absentmindedly answer the door in your nightgown. 7. Lymph (v.), to walk with a lisp. 8. Gargoyle (n.), olive-flavored mouthwash. 9. Flatulence (n.) emergency vehicle that picks you up after you are run over by a steamroller. 10. Balderdash (n.), a rapidly receding hairline. 11. Testicle (n.), a humorous question on an exam. 12. Rectitude (n.), the formal, dignified bearing adopted by proctologists. 13. Pokemon (n), a Rastafarian proctologist. 14. Oyster (n.), a person who sprinkles his conversation with Yiddishisms. 15. Frisbeetarianism (n.), (back by popular demand): The belief that, when you die, your Soul flies up onto the roof and gets stuck there. 16. Circumvent (n.), an opening in the front of boxer shorts worn by Jewish men. The Washington Post's Style Invitational also asked readers to take any word from the dictionary, alter it by adding, subtracting, or changing one letter, and supply a new definition. Here are this year's winners: 1. Bozone (n.): The substance surrounding stupid people that stops bright ideas from penetrating. The bozone layer, unfortunately, shows little sign of breaking down in the near future. 2. Foreploy (v): Any misrepresentation about yourself for the purpose of getting laid. 3. Cashtration (n.): The act of buying a house, which renders the subject financially impotent for an indefinite period. 4. Giraffiti (n): Vandalism spray-painted very, very high. 5. Sarchasm (n): The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it. 6. Inoculatte (v): To take coffee intravenously when you are running late. 7. Hipatitis (n): Terminal coolness. 8. Osteopornosis (n): A degenerate disease. (This one got extra credit.) 9. Karmageddon (n): its like, when everybody is sending off all these really bad vibes, right? And then, like, the Earth explodes and it's like, a serious bummer. 10 Decafalon (n.): The grueling event of getting through the day consuming only things that are good for you. 11. Glibido (v): All talk and no action. 12. Dopeler effect (n): The tendency of stupid ideas to seem smarter when they come at you rapidly. 13. Arachnoleptic fit (n.): The frantic dance performed just after you've accidentally walked through a spider web. 14. Beelzebug (n.): Satan in the form of a mosquito that gets into your bedroom at three in the morning and cannot be cast out. 15. Caterpallor (n.): The color you turn after finding half a grub in the fruit you're eating. And the pick of the literature: 16. Ignoranus (n): A person who's both stupid and an asshole.

I use NAPA gold FIL3023 This thread has more info and part numbers that will work: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=1097&hl=

Table manners puh-leeeeeze I just ate...

Here is my futile attempt at trying to understand this: I think it works out to something like four bolts of 8mm diameter. Find the total square area of the bolt cross sections and divide into one square inch to find total tensile strength. The tensile force on the bolts from fluid is probably something like the force at the hand multiplied by leverage of the lever, times the ratio of caliper pistons total area divided by the master pistons area. But I don't remember doing that in school, so it is just a lay man's guess. It is surprisingly difficult to find ratings of things in easy to comprehend terms. I found the following at wikipedia: "Tensile yield strength is M10, property class 8.8 bolt can very safely hold a static tensile load of about 15 kN. the screw in the image should be going the other way." 15 kN is about 3500# M8 bolts are probably about half as strong, so we have four M8 bolts with enough strength to withstand about 7000 pounds of static load. At the hand lever I figure some gorilla fist guzzista might be able to muscle 100lbs of force when trying to get the brake lines to pop using one hand. There might be a five to one lever ratio, so 500 pounds of pressure might hit the master piston. (that is too much pressure but just for worst case scenario, indulge me...) The pistons are probably 16mm, 30mm, 30mm, 34mm, 34mm. with areas 201, 707, 707, 908, 908. so 3230 divided by 201 is 16. So 16 times 500 is 8000 pounds, so the gorilla fisted Guzzisti might be able to brake the bolts that can only withstand 7000 pounds. EDIT Oooops, I forgot about the second caliper, that will take away half the pressure, so 8000 pounds becomes 4000 pounds. But since we use stronger than 8.8 bolts maybe it is OK??????? I am probably waaaaayyyyyy off, so if you see where I am wrong, feel free to point it out.

Nah, they are set in their ways and have made it clear they don't like urethane Silicone has some excellent qualities that would make it ideal for job if it weren't so weak. Urethane has most of those same qualities but is much stronger than the silicone. I don't think any mechanic should do anything in a non-standard way without enlightening the customer to the pros and cons. If the mechanic explained to the customer that the rubber pucks from Guzzi were mis-engineered and were as hard as chrome-moly steel, I think it would be an easy sell. I would be about as upset from discovering drilled holes as I would be from globbed in silicone, assuming the bodge was holding up. But I don't think silicone would hold up to the pressure and it extrude off to the side. I still think urethane is the ideal material and I would have faith that Pete or Greg would know what they were doing. It is not rocket science. But as I have said, if the rubber pucks are as soft as Docc indicated and the rubber holds up with drilling as you have indicated, than the urethane would be a waste of time, and I'll probably drill it conservatively and fill it with silicone grease, assuming the gasket is not a friction disk. Or I may just pull three deceleration pucks out and see how that improves things. Keep in mind that the deceleration force max's out at wheel lock while the acceleration force max's out at about the point of popping a wheelie.

Thanks for the clarification. Sorry, I totally missed that he was straightening me out in that post. I was drawn into second and third paragraphs. My V65 had a clutch with "anti-rattle springs" and it grenaded, luckily with only internal cosmetic case damage. Certainly another excellent Pete Roper post worth repeating as it full of valuable info: I nominate Emry for a bodge point!

Beautiful! I wish I lived in a neighborhood like that. Being one never to offend or draw attention I may have to do something like that to the inside of garage only.

Actually four bolts join the two halves.

So, is that more or less than the force that mounting bolts have to endure during a nose wheelie? And which is stronger, four M8 bolts or two M10? Interestingly my Ducati999 calipers apparently have 3 not 4 M8 pinch bolts. Although it has only 3 bolts, the multi-pad design allows for a centered bolt. In any case, what holds true in the need for rigidity in the pinch bolts also holds true for the mounting bolts. Maybe more so, or maybe less so. The important thing when shopping is to look for rigidity, if you can determine it...

I agree, as those bolts are taking half the vector force that the carrier bolts are taking, assuming friction is evenly balanced between pads. Plus they are taking the hydraulic load, but that can't be all that much considering the strength of our hand. What is the leverage ratio? Yet, they are still concerned about the rigidity. It seems to me, the rigidity of the mounting bolts would be even more important than the rigidity of the clam shell bolts. Should I stop speculating before Ratchet gets all tied up in a knot again? EDIT Ooops too late, I missed the last post. "The waters are getting deeper, Gents. "

I love it! Drilling the pucks in your Guzzi, makes it more loosey-goosey! Thank you for understanding the need for the appropriate word. Slush and slop weren't quite cutting it. I am pretty sure the clutch springs add to the loosey-goosey driveline. Thanks for reminding me about that other cushdrive. I forgot all about it. Do the five speeds have one too?

The following concerns the bolts that hold the caliper together, but the same should hold true about the mounting bolts. Although strength is important, you just have to surpass exceptable strength, not reach maximum strength. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_monobloc.shtml Lots of other good stuff there, maybe even the answer to what is the optimum bolt?

The answer is the hooters thread.

Of course it does not change the tolerances, but if for academia's sake all was press fit so that there was no slack, I am surprised that one would insist that there would be no slop in the driveline due to the springs in the clutch and the rubbers in the cush. Whatever! It boils down to semantics and the majority gets to right the rules as there is no dictionary definition of lash or slop that defines it. I guess the only words you except are cushion or spring, even if softer rubbers would result in a sloppier drive if everything were press fitted. Between you and me, we sure have a way with much ado about nothing. I simply mention urethane and I get fire and brimstone. I challenge the statement that drilling the rubbers won't increase driveline lash, and I get treated like an ass. If the definition of driveline lash is as you say it is, then the statement that drilling the holes won't increase lash is about a meaningful as saying rain is Spain doesn't cause flowers to grow in Maine. Whatever

So, the experts won't except lash as a word to define slack plus cush, and they won't take slop as the word, but slush has got to be the word! quack is what is between your cheeks that shows when you bend over.

Thank You! I will consider the generous offer. Your experience and skills are certainly appreciated. I don't mean any disrespect when I question authority. The experienced should just learn not to call 70A durometer material Chrome-Moly hard and should learn that a challenge can be be made to asserting that drilling holes won't increase lash. I certainly learned that slack is different from lash. Thank you. But I still have doubts about this friction plate. For now, I have to respect authority that it is ok to get greas on, but I do suspect it might be to provide friction damping.

Yah, I thought that one was a little odd to. On that wiki page they have another entry that puts automotive tire at 50-70A http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durometer#Dur...ommon_materials In any case, if the stock pucks are as soft as automotive tire, placing them below a 70A, then I doubt I'd bother with urethane. The whole point of the urethane would be to get away from the 95A or harder rubber. While urethane is availble below a 70A it is less common and at 70A some mild drilling will do the trick for the stock rubber, but at 95A it seemed to need extreme drilling as shown in Greg's photos. Maybe Guzzi ships various densities of rubber and Ratchet and Greg got rocks and Docc and maybe others got compliant rubber. I guess we have wasted a few pages on my otherwise bright idea. But just to keep it going... I recalled a better word than driveline lash, slack or freeplay that represents slack plus cush, and that word is slop. Drilling holes or using softer rubbers will increase slop, maybe lash, not slack and not freeplay.

Because of the bolts, and Greg's story of how difficult it was to get them out, along with other people's stories and my own brief attempt. I mentioned this before, but you must have lost your recollection for my brilliant words. Besides if I get there and find that my batch of pucks is softer than Greg's chrome-alloy-rubber, and in fine condition, I might just lube it up and or drill them. Right now the plan is to buy the right tool for the screw removal, and come the next tire change I'll do an exploration. One possible plan is to pull some of the rubbers so I can match it up against some known durometers, probably at a skateboard shop where they sell wheels and truck bushings in various assorted durometers. I might have to spend $20 on R&D, but it could be worth it. I already asked San Diego Plastics if they have a durometer, but they don't. I figure if I can roughly determine what the durometer should be. My target will be about 5-10 durometers softer than the Chrome-Alloy hard pucks. How hard are they really? You probably have much better idea having handled them. From wikipedia some general durometers are : Ebonite Rubber 100 A Hard skateboard wheel 98 A Solid truck tires 50 D Soft skateboard wheel 75 A Automotive tire tread 70 A Door seal 55 A Rubber band 25 A Sorbothane 0 A So, I am guessing that Chrome-Alloy hard was an exaggeration and that Ebonite hard rubber 100A might be about what Guzzi put in there, but probably a little softer, as I find it hard to believe Guzzi made them 100A or harder. Skeeve suggested 50A is too soft, and over 70A would be better, maybe around an 87A. I am inclined to agree, but need to pull the cushes to make sure. The other option is to send one of the wedges to the experts that Pierre recommended and get an estimate to have it done at about 5 less durometers. If I do that, it is a simple upgrade, and hopefully inexpensive. Unproven? Sure, but I have more faith in going with 5 less durometers and maybe a few small drill holes than making swiss cheese with a drill bit, or intestinal gas, like BFG'a wife did. I am sure I can sell atleast 48 wedges, if the price is right...