dlaing

Radio Shack is likely US only. The Bosch number is a Bosch number. I would have owed you some beer if swapping the relays killed anything! Glad they are all the same. Clearly one or more are bad. You might be able to find a VW crossref here http://www.kraecker.de/

It is all Greek to me! Sorry.

they are all Siemens V23073! An auto parts store in Andromeda be able to get the Bosch 0 332 207 307 Maybe this helps to get some Siemens V23074 (somewhat improved relay as it appears to have resistor added????? Be sure to get 12V not 24V): http://www.fotorele.net/tianbo.html but I don't speak greek For people in Radio Shack country, Radio Shack part number 900-2391

But rumor is he has gone over to the Scura Dark side But it could just be for the yellow Ohlins and he'll end up painting the bike rubber chicken yellow.

You and the experts may well be right about the durability of the holy pucks. Apparently I am the only one who ever replaced them and that was on a V65 not a V11, and the rubber was apparently much softer on the V65 as I recall it being about as soft as tire tread. Few have taken a V11 over 40,000 miles and only Ratchet is close to that with drilled pucks. I am sure he will keep us informed of how well they are doing. It would be interesting to see his hole drilling strategy. I might just drill a few small holes for the pucks that effect deceleration as nobody has indicated acceleration being a problem. I also suspect fuel efficiency and power are lost to cush in the direction of acceleration. It sure would be nice to have the R&D to design the ultimate cush with maybe 10mm of rising rate dynamic cush under maximum gear dropping deceleration, and maybe 5mm of linear dynamic cush at maximum gear banging clutch popping acceleration. Springs, oil damping, etc. Maybe in the 2050 model year Norge????

Excellent points! I need to buy new tools anyway.

Glad you are here to catch my bad advice I forgot that bikes might have relays with diodes and that Guzzi does funky wiring. I hope swapping did no damage. Alex, what brand and part numbers are on your relays? PyroDan has a good FAQ http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay_faq.htm 85 and 86 correspond to 2 and 1 on your chart. Alex does not have a protective Diode, so he should avoid that Siemens V23073 relay atleast at the ECU Relay and Fuel Pump/Power Relay and maybe other relays. He should avoid a relay with a Diode at the Power/Fuel Pump relay and at the headlamp relay, and maybe at other relays. The recommended Bosch with resistor should be fine, but he Starter Relay could really benefit from the GEI relay which also has resistor and has great current handling of the 87a terminal.

I hope you put the regulator on correctly. When I replaced mine, I found a voltage drop between regulator and battery of about 0.5 Volts. So, I replaced the wiring (which Electrosport recommended in the instructions that I ignored at first) So, if you get it running check for voltage output at various RPMs, with and without lights, etc. I would double check how the regulator is wired against the wiring diagram. Did the alternator warning light problem go away when you installed the latest regulator? When your regulator first went bad, it could have taken out the ECU. Having a Diode in place would have reduced the chance of that problem. You may also have a diode in your relays, and one or more of them may be bad. I recommend replacing all of them as they SHOULD be inexpensive, and they may have taken the brunt of the load when the regulator went bad. It is good that a dirty fuel filter won't take out a regulator and a fuel pump! as that could be costly. You might be able to swap relays around to troubleshoot the problem. Just keep track of which relay came from which socket by numbering the relays. And make sure they are all five terminal relays.

If they are the same relays as the V11 sport as your post suggests, than Bosch Relay part number 0 332 207 307

The hostility part of many of the threads I get involved in bugs me. Certainly a few have found me offensive, but aside from the retaliation that I often regretfully resort to, I endeavor to be polite and respectful when I question authority, and non-authority. The reason I created this thread was to spare slow kitty and others from having to watch us hash out any BS and find TRUTH. The people that have contributed positively are helping move us further from BS. I have been swayed in Brian's and Ratchet's argument's direction, and I hope they been swayed in the direction of my argument. Maybe it is also healthy not to forget g.forrest's argument that we should just ride the bike and not fine tune infinitely, but I don't think we have forgotten that, although we must have somehow given that impression. EDIT Here are MY recommended percentages without aforementioned modifiers, translated to mm, for anyone who cares. REAR Sachs 10mm unladen 8.3% 30mm laden 25% FRONT 20mm unladen 16.7% 35mm laden 29.2% I think maybe some get annoyed by the decimal point. It does not mean that you should set it to such a fine degree, it is just a result of the math that helped me arrive at these numbers, and omitting the numbers might compound errors in the future. But I am omitting the extending decimals...For example 8.3 is actually 8 and a third.

I bought Joe's pegs, so leave the guy alone...THEY ARE MINE, ALL MINE! Thanks! By the way, check is in the mail, went out a bit late today.

Oh, yah, and if you have the Transil Diode modification, it may have saved your ECU from when the regulator died, but might now be causing this problem. See http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/english.html and http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/1100_sport_en.html But if you did not have the Transil Diode Modification there is some significant chance the ECU is damaged.

Has the new regulator arrived yet? This may be a long shot, but I have been told that a dirty fuel filter can make the fuel pump work too hard and cause the battery to drain. This scenario could also cause the voltage regulator to work harder and possibly die. But you were getting good voltage with that voltage regulator, so maybe it is not the filter. So, new regulator, new fuel filter, and for a few dollars more, some new relays.

probably the most critical strength for bolts holding on brake disks. Shear force is what the bolts must resist when braking. Tensile force is what the bolts must resist if you grabbed the brake disk and tried to pull it away from the wheel. If your disk was warped this might become critical, but otherwise, shear strength is most critical. From wikipedia Tensile Compressive -----> Shear ----->

Your crap is so full of BS! EDIT I should be above this crap... Nobody is talking infinite fine adjustment. It is quite the contrary, simply a disagreement over formulas for rough adjustment. One school of thought is 15/30 front and rear in balance and the other is more of something like 5/25 rear and 20/30 front. EDIT my numbers are actually 8/25 rear and 17/29 front Perhaps a fine difference to some, but hardly BS

Not a chance! Read the following and you will understand. http://news.softpedia.com/news/Wine-Can-In...cer-49013.shtmlSo, no more wine, cheese or urethane for me....back to consuming gasoline , garlic and rubber instead.

SSsssshhhh, you are on to my secret! But if I did have a bike, the answer is no, I have not taken the cush drive apart. If I had, I might have a better clue about how close to the hardness of steel they are. FWIW I mentioned that I have not seen inside the cush drive a few posts ago. Years ago, probably after reading Ratchet's first post about cush drives, I did make one attempt, but balked when it became clear that the button screws were in TIGHT. To me the benefit did not out weigh the PIA factor. I did however have a V65 that has cush rubbers that are visible with every rear tire change. Those rubbers were not rock hard, but I recall they got harder and beat up as the years progressed and at one point I replaced them. Mike Wilson had better luck or took better care of them on his small block than I did on mine. It may be possible I messed them up by not meshing the vanes with the rubbers properly, or maybe it was from drilling them as somebody had recommended? I really can't remember

So, what connects to the flasher? One ground, one hot, and one to the turn signal switch? Or just one wire???!!!???

I agree with Ratchet! It is a fine idea, but I would be amazed if you could sell 100 units. Maybe if they were under $100??????

EDIT, now that I think more rationally.....what I said below is not true. The wider end would need more holes to allow for more travel. But due to more force at the narrow end there should proportionally be more holes to width at the narrow end....which was what I was thinking originally, but neglected to add travel to the equation The wider ends have more space for holes, but the narrow end needs more cush, so I would ensure that the narrow end has as many holes as the wide end. Unlike Greg and Ratchet, I have no experience drilling holes in the rubber and opening up years later. I don't even know how firm the rubber is. But rationally and apparently conservatively speaking I would aim for two rows of smaller evenly spaced holes, where no two holes are within there own diameter from one another. Probably about two hole diameters from one another would be about right, and I would stay away from the perimeter of the wedge. At the narrow end of the wedge, getting kind of close to the perimeter is necessary, but don't get to within a hole's diameter of the edge. In this photoshoped image, the holes should have appeared a little larger at the wide end due to perspective, and a little smaller at the narrow end. BAA, YMMV and this is completely hypothetical. Greg's or Ratchet's strategies may also be perfectly fine. I just think a more conservative approach would be wise, because I have seen too much rubber break down from ozone, over compression, and over flexing.

The splines you removed may be a little softer than chrome-moly steel, but will do the trick if combined with DOW CORNING 3145 RTV SILICONE SEALANT ADHESIVE or for a more compliant 'feel' try Dow Corning 360 medical grade silicone fill, but don't sue me nor Dow if your ride becomes all lopsided or develops other symptoms

Looks like a ground wire. Antonio's relay probably needs a hot, a ground, and the two original flasher wires. Here are some optons http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm

I think in a test Ratchet posted they were close but not identical. Z6s were rated better for dry traction and the Stradas better for wet traction. I expect mileage should be about the same. My rear Strada went completely bald on center at 5500 miles. I like to replace when center gets to legal limit. So, they should have been replaced at 5000 miles. All the tires before the Strada lasted about 4000 to 5000, so I would rate it as excellent mileage for sport touring. If I had a drilled cush drive they might last longer.

So, it was broken before you added the LED signals? Adding the LEDs can complicate things. You may need an electronic flasher or something to get the flasher to flash. The original problem could have been caused by something else, like maybe the flasher, the can type thing with two wire terminals, that Ratchet recommended replacing. Or a bad connection, or a bad bulb or???? How did the rear right bulb look? Burnt out or good? Still all four bulbs being lit indicates some current crossing over. But you may now have two problems. I would pull the indicator bulb from the dash. When you pull the bulb out, pay careful attention to how it went in, because there is a wrong way to insert it

I think the socket is likely. The contacts on the bulb are flimsy and can bridge the contacts in the socket. You can see the wiring diagram here http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sch...9_V11_sport.gif With LEDs involved don't know whether or not it would flash