dlaing

Wise words! I should try to remember that everytime I post about an alternative, and someone shouts, malarky!

No, no hazard lights on V11. I can only imagine that the current is getting bridged at either the switch or the indicator lamp. I think it is more likely to be at the indicator lamp.

Take a look at Docc's thread on removing the bolts that hold the brake disks to the wheels http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11793 The same techniques should apply except heat is not as critical since there should not be any thread locking compound. Not to say heat won't help but you might try without heat first. Ratchet's advice is good, too. But if you don't want to take a chance of making it worse, go to a mechanic. In NYC I would recommend any british bike repair shop. And as waspp suggested, an experienced car mechanic may be closer and have no trouble. Even a scooter shop may have a decent mechanic. I think Motorcycle Works Limited is where I had success before, when Ghost (RIP) in Port Washington was too far. 316 Carroll St Brooklyn, NY 11231-5008 Phone: (718) 802-1705 But if you are on Long Island you should be able to find something closer.

Here is a different part number N0006.1AD From http://www.silvereagleharley.com/eshopprod...r_XB_Models.htm Not sure if is a different model or for some odd reason just a differnt number But I also just found this article http://www.robotskirts.com/?m=200607&paged=2 rumoring that the Buell pegs are crap and may brake unexpectedly.... ...the carnage!

Sorry, my fault. Don't worry, Guzzi fired me years ago as a consultant, I could not decide on Tygon or Nitrile, but on my own bike I used vinyl, cause that is what was in my garage. Since they fired me, please note the reliabilty of the Griso, Breva, and Norge Those bikes barely even need a forum!!! BTW, JK except I really did put a vinyl tube on in the way Raz suggested.

The turn signals are off the relay circuit, so write that possibility off. Are you just adding the LED turn signals or were they working previously? It could be a bad turn signal switch. Or maybe a bad flasher relay, but I don't think so as it should not cause all four indicators to light at once. More likely a misplaced or shorted bulb in the instrument cluster. I hope is just the flasher.

You betcha! But it may take 20 years before I can show an after shot. Hopefully it will be atleast 100,000 miles before you show us the inside of your well lubed and drilled cush drive.

Interesting. I have thought that urethane behaved better with impact pressures than rubber. I'll have to investigate further, but so far all I have found is high ratings for urethane in just about every category with better aging, memory, and tensile strength than nitrile. The benefits that I forsee, are if it is made a little softer than the rubber, it will be a little cushier. But if making it softer significantly reduces its ability to handle impact and high pressures, that would not be a good thing. Do you have a resource that shows the comparative resistance to impact pressures? I found this chart for seal materials http://www.rotamic.co.in/seal_materials.html they don't cover impact resistance, but the urethane appears to be superior in just about every way but temperature resistance. I imagine high heat from friction would be bad, so greasing the urethane would be a good idea.

Global Warming would have to get real hot to speed up the decay on all the polyurethane in the land fills. Everybody please forget that I ever suggested polyurethane as it is clearly more of an environmental hazard than rubber is. Swiss cheesed rubber will probably decay in less than 500 years while polyurethane may take ten or twenty times longer. Use rubber and swiss cheese it, please. BTW why do you prefer rubber to urethane? Can't you get the urethane in black? Can't you get the urethane in the proper firmness? Are you a stuck in the mud traditionalist? Or do you just like paying more for rubber because you can? Why did you turn Ratchet against me you evil man?

I suppose you are right. When I think of slack like rope slack, you are correct. My apologies. From my perspective as a rider, the springs flexing in the clutch and rubber compressing in the cush drive are part of the overall driveline slack. But I see now from the merriam webster perspective, you are correct. I think we need a word for slack plus cushion. But I started arguing this when the word was drivetrain lash. Until I see a good definition of lash, I am sticking to the definition, lash equals slack or freeplay plus cushion and or stretch. BAA, YMMV and if you think of lash in terms of valve lash, then it is like freeplay or slack. I think of driveline lash as what the rider experiences dynamically in the sense of it lashes back and forth when decellerating. But it is all much ado about nothing. If you define lash as slack or freeplay, I am not sure why one would even mention that drilling rubbers does not increase lash. Of course it does not. Maybe I got baited in for a battle of word defining. Oh well. My only point is that making it cushier increases the slack plus cushion factor, which some may find undesirable. I don't know if it will make the bike less controlled as the lack of jerkiness will help control, but the longer movement (that I am not allowed to call lash) may make the throttle control vaguer.

Same thing I said to Pete, applies to you. I hope and suspect that you are big enough to take my disagreements with a few of your statements. Your posts have brought great life to this forum, and saved countless engines. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated, but if you think I am harassing you by suggesting fewer or smaller holes seems safer and urethane would be a better material, than tough. I posted the suggestion of urethane not to undermine you, but because I think it is a good idea. Ratchet has had it in for me ever since the global warming thread. Now, he goes around dumping fuel around every flame. I am not going to let Ratchet bully me around and censor me. Both Pete's and Greg's experience and skill with motorcycles is well beyond mine and the reading audience is fully aware of it. But if anybody, expert or not thinks the urethane is a bad idea, I am going argue.

Thanks. That was truly enlightening. But regarding what Ratchet just went on about. Sorry, but I am not sorry for suggesting that Polyurethane be used in place of rubber. If you can't handle me suggesting polyurethane, then I guess you will have to hire hit men to take me out, or maybe you can do it when you pick up your Scura. I'll even treat you for dinner and discuss politics with you before you whack me.

That sounds like a thread.

I hope Greg or someone who has seen more than a couple of Guzzi splines could confirm your clarification. Greg said,"Only in extreem circumstances. Bad wheel bearings or continual cycles of rusting and scraping off of rust are what most often takes out the wheel splines." So, does that mean that in less extreme circumstances that the clutch splines going would be more common? Why do they use springs instead of rubber at the clutch? I would guess greater impact absorbtion within the space available, heat resistance, and a greater desire for durability out-weighed the natural damping of rubber. Who cares!?! Just ride the thing!!!

Nice bikes! It would be nice to read your impression of how they compare, especially after you get some miles on this one.

Are these the splines that get hammered the hardest?

I guess you have not noticed how many emoticons Ratchet uses for his errha-rational arguments.

I thought I was done, but when you write with such great clarity, it gives me hope that we can share understanding. Driveline slack is NOT the amount of free movement of the driveline with NO LOAD on the driveline!!! Driveline slack is the amount of free movement of the driveline going from maximum hard decceleration to maximum hard accelleration!!! It is not true that, "As soon as ANY LOAD is applied to the driveline, the slack is used up!!!" As soon as MAXIMUM LOAD is applied to the driveline, the slack is used up!!! Driveline slack = MAXIMUM LOAD ACCELERATING TO MAXIMUM LOAD DECCELERATING Cush drive deformation is part of driveline slack and is proportional to ± LOAD This thread started with the premise that decceleration does the damage. Was acceleration not mentioned because it is essentially unavoidable, while using engine for braking is avoidable? Or does engine braking do more damage and thus does it need more cush? In re-designing the cush rubbers, one could add more dimensional cush in the direction of decceleration while giving up accelerative cush. And for I think the fourth time, which spline is at risk? I guess every gear, the clutch, the shaft, and the pinion are at risk. I think Greg indicated the Scura clutch splines were at risk. The one the wheel slides into would be my guess. Everyone's opinion is welcome for these questions. Just because I think that: polyurethane is a better material, too many drill holes is bad, and adding holes increases slack, does not mean I don't respect people who disagree who certainly know more about the cush and splines than I. And, it does not mean I don't think staying with the original rubber, drilling some holes, adding silicone grease, and incidentally increasing slack a little for the benefit of cush, is a good idea. Thank you Greg for posting an excellent how to.

Why is it causing such rancour when I simply suggested using polyurethane in place of the chrome-moly steel hard rubber? What makes anyone think using urethane more elaborate and expensive than taking my bike to the dealer and paying them to do the work Greg did? Nobody is rancourous about Greg's suggestion. Some have reservations about the number of holes drilled and one person has reservations on how it effects control of the bike, but no rancour. All the rancour comes from the folks that think polyurethane is a bad solution, and that have the notion that increasing slack won't increase slack...a notion that boils down to selective misleading semantics and what you consider slack. Slack to me is the difference between the engine and the wheel as it is being accelerated and deccelerlerated. It can be measured statically by freezing the rear wheel with the engine in gear and seeing how far the engine will turn from one direction to the other. The actual measurement will vary depending on how much force you use. But drilling holes in the rubber will increase how far the engine will turn at the typical force that we see when accelerating and deccelerating. This is an increase in slack. I really don't understand why nobody understands this So, I give up. Maybe if I do the urethane upgrade I'll post how elaborate and expensive it was. But until then, go ahead and toot the virtues of drilling steel hard rubbers. It is not a completely bad idea, unless you over drill the rubbers or throw the wheel balance off too much. I guess wheel balance will be something I'll have to get right if I do the urethane....I had not thought of that earlier Have at it you rancourous geezers

No, it is not. The problem is that it is absurd to measure driveline slack without including the flexibility of the rubber. If you completely removed the rubbers you would have more freeplay, right? If you drill holes in the rubber you have more freeplay, unless you do the technically absurd thing and measure from the point of contact of the rubber, that is always in contact. If you measure between the rubber and metal it is zero, unless you squeeze a feeler gauge in there, in which case you could come up with some useless number. If you measure the slop in the gears with a feeler gauge, you will get real numbers that if you add them all up, they would amount to total slop in the gears that does exist, and I am not contesting that, but the gears are constantly touching, so if contact equals zero freeplay, there is no freeplay, again absurd. If we make an analogy to suspension: topping out = point of freeplay when decellerating bottoming out = point of freeplay when accellerating YOU DO NOT MEASURE BOTTOMING OUT AT THE POINT IT HITS THE RUBBER BUMPER, YOU MEASURE IT WHEN IT BOTTOMS OUT. You are wrong. It increase the slack.

That seems kind of like measuring your height by the puffiness of your hair. Following that definition, I contend there is no freeplay in the drivetrain, as everything is in contact.

No the space arm or brake carrier must come off, but you don't need to remove the bolt that acts as a pin that keeps a rectangular block in place, retaining the brake carrier from spinning with the wheel On early V11s, you do not have to remove the bolt/pin that holds the brake carrier to the swing arm at the forward point. You do have to remove the axle, and once you do, the brake carrier can pivot off the pin that holds the carrier alongside the swing arm. But the brake carrier must come off. It could be that later V11s require removing the bolt/pin and the cotter pin that more safely retains it, but I doubt it. I think the only difference between early and later is the cotter pin.

FWIW I keep my Bitubo damper at the minimum setting and using hose clamps, I abuse it and use it as my steering stop, because my original steering stop has not functioned properly in years. Despite having the knob all the way out and using it as a steering stop, it does not leak and seems to function smoothly as tested with front wheel in air(on jackstand, not tested during wheelie)

Oh no! I retired from spaminating too soon

Welcome to the forum motomentel! We can't have too many Mental Cases here! By "fork arm" I think you mean swing arm. I think the pin you speak of is the pin that hold the rear brake along the swing arm. Newer and later models are a little different. What year is your V11? Here are some tips, some obvious, some less so: If you are simply changing the tire, do not fully withdraw the axle. Remove brake line first and be prepared that the brake does not smack the ground when the axle is pulled through. Keep track of where spacers and washers go. There is a spacer between wheel and rear drive that will find its way to the floor after the wheel is pulled, and roll down the sewer when you are not watching. Disassemble the cush drive following Greg's instructions and treat it as he suggests. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11820&hl= Be sure to check wheel bearings for damage. If they turn roughly, lube or replace and make sure bearing spacer is slightly longer than space between bearings if fully seated home. There was a known issue of some spacers being too short which puts excessive side pressure on the bearings when the axle nut is torqued. There is a forum thread or two or more, somewhere...