dlaing

dlaing is interested http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...11578&st=15 Mine even comes with a light alloy bearing spacer! But it does have a lot of scratches from tire changes. So, you might want to swap with one of the other guys. Plus they probably want it more baddly I guess all the narrow rims will come in silver, so you will probably want to paint it. I don't care about the color not matching

The diagnostic software is very useful and can in some rare instances save on hours of trouble shooting. But most of us on this forum have gotten along without it. Its most common use is to set the carbon monoxide trim level, using the software and a CO meter. But once set you should never need to set it again at the ECU...right?!????

From my experience, the 18mm target sounds like a good target for the rear with a Sachs shock. I think lighter rider may need less and heavier riders more because of the ratio of the bike to rider weight, but it is not a big difference. I think the front springs should provide less sag difference than the rear spring because of the need for the front suspension to handle bottoming. Ohlins suggests Without rider: Rear: Road and Track 5-10 mm Front: Road and Track 25-30 mm With rider: Rear: Road and Track 30-40 mm Front: Road and Track 35-48 mm Notice they recommend more difference in the rear, but then again the rear wheel travel is about 140mm. Other experts generally recommend firmer springs and less sag than Ohlins does, and I agree with them, up to a point. I think if you take the tighter Ohlins numbers you would be doing very well: Without rider: Rear: Road and Track 10 mm Front: Road and Track 25-30 mm With rider: Rear: Road and Track 30 mm Front: Road and Track 35 mm For a difference of about Rear: 20 mm Front: 5-10 mm What you set your sag to should also take into consideration geometry. I find that a high rear and a low front make the bike handle better. Some of that can be adjusted by moving the triple clamps down the forks, but more sag in the forks than at the rear is a good thing. My front is 26mm/36mm with a difference of 10mm. I think I need a stiffer spring up front, so I guess for my front the 18mm±5 does not meet my needs, and I need a little less than 10mm difference. But my rear is 6mm/31mm for a difference of 25mm. I think I need a stiffer, but more importantly a more progressive rear spring. Probably 8mm/28mm would be about ideal for me. But my Penske rear suspension is probably about 136mm of travel as opposed to the 120mm Sachs. If I was using the Sachs, 18mm rear would be just about perfect.

I had more trouble than Bertie. For me backing the rings off as much as possible did not allow enough slack to remove the split collar. I had to use ratcheting tie downs to compress the spring enough to remove the split collar. Someone else posted they simply pried the spring a little with a screw driver and that gave the collar enough room to come off. And another person suggested hose clamps to compress the springs. But that seems a bit dangerous to me, but if you get enough hose clamps, perhaps it can be done safely. I think the person that recommended the tie down method shed a fair amount of blood Be careful. We don't want you hurt.

After you get some rest, please elaborate.

If an Ohlins Guzzi is your goal, here is another option In Alabama http://www.mgnoc.com/classifieds.html "Limited Edition Coppa Italia V11 Sport. Only 40 Imported to US. All Ohlins with steering damper, MG factory upgrade Titanium cans & chip, PIAA headlights, extra bright LED brake lights and turn signals, custom rear shock mud guard,clear custom tank & headlight protectors. Mint condition, always garaged & covered with MG red cover included. 600 miles. 1st service."

Don't fret. The general rule of thumb that I have heard is that the spring should be at least twice the length of the stroke. The stroke is about 60mm or about 2.36", double that and you need a spring of at least 120mm or 4.72", so you have got a fair mount of extra spring. IMHO less spring is less weight EDIT But 60 mm stroke is for the Sachs. The Ohlins is about 70mm, so the spring should be at least 140mm or at least 5.5"...still OK

Removing the shock is pretty easy. Removing the shock spring may or may not be difficult. It took me several hours using tie down straps to compress the spring. But someone posted they easily pried the retaining spring off with a screw driver. Once you get the original spring off, the 1093 is short enough that it will be a very easy to install, with no need to compress it to get it on. Be sure to clean and lube the preload adjuster threads, and lube the eye sockets For me it was easier to add lots of preload with the shock off the bike, install the shock, and then back the preload off to set the desired sag.

Spring rate is a personal choice and often requires experimentation. If you have Ohlins now, you are probably sprung correctly. Measuring sag gives a good clue. There are many schools of thought on what correct sag should be. Assuming you have a Sachs shock, I am not sure 57mm ID matches the Sachs shock, but if it does, then you could try any of these springs and end up better than you were with the Sachs. 1091-26 485 1091-29 514 1092-26 485 1092-29 514 1093-26 485 1093-29 514 I think one of the 485# springs would be ideal for you. But if you are very aggressive on nasty roads or ride two up frequently, the 514lb spring might be a better choice.

Thanks Greg! I am looking forward to seeing them. But, I suspect they are not going to be Mac friendly But I can watch them on the PC in my garage

GuzziJack wrote "...with an 8mm washer above that which, it so happens, just bears on the outside rim of the master cylinder." As I understand it the 8mm washer placement on the rim allows for the added spring to assist the internal spring, and more importantly it assists it past the point of negative free-play, so that there truly is free play.

That is brilliant! Way to thing outside the box. I wanted to ask you for a photo, but did not want to drag you in. I was contemplating how to hook a spring to the lever, but this does the trick much more elegantly.

I'd agree with that, and thanks for the clarification. And then we have Ratchet who I have to go through endless point by point clarifications. So, I could not stay shut up... No, I did not use WD40 on any electrical contact on my bike, and I did not use it on my bike until I saw the oxidation of the stainless steel. And then I sprayed the WD40 into a rag before rubbing away the tiny spot of rust. More than 20 years ago I made the mistake of using it on electrical contacts, usually battery terminals, before learning the evils of WD40, and that I should only use silicone dielectric grease. But then on this forum I learned that the insulating qualities of dielectric silicone can be too great and can cause contact problems, so since then I have been using a silver conductive paste. Perhaps the insulating effective of the silicone caused my lamp to fail, and if I used some DeoxIT on it, the problem will go away. Does deoxit protect and conduct like silver paste? So far the silicone has not caused a problem on the new lamp. When I bought it I immediately put silicone on it, but not silver paste. But since then, I have been using the silver paste. I should probably open the lamp, and add silver paste. I have put the paste on almost all the connectors, and so far, it has been fine. If I can learn from this forum, that is a good thing. Hopefully JRT will properly grease his lever pivots, and use silver conductive paste on all the contacts. USE SPARINGLY WHERE IT MIGHT BRIDGE CONTACTS!!!!!!!! But I don't think his TEFLON spray caused the problem, and I think the spray is good temporary lube....with less chance of losing that darn ball bearing that activates the switch.

If they could just make a SportTourer out of it and raise the torque, handlebars and windscreen, lower the foot pegs and HP, and lengthen the wheelbase, they might make a buyer out of me. Of course I could just get a "Big Bore" engine kit for my V11 and spend thousands of dollars bringing the weight down.

Secret DeCoder rings available here and here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111505 http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/suspensionspring.php EDIT What the heck, here is the decoder ring image http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/7108/oh...gdecoderno0.gif

1091 is what the Guzzi Ohlins supposedly ship with. Supposedly the following is correct, but it is odd that the part numbers don't have a linear correspondence with the length. from http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/suspensionspring.php Spring Length Chart 1093 - 150 mm - 5.9" 1091 - 160 mm - 6.3" 1092- 170 mm - 6.7" All of the above are supposedly 57mm ID, but you should confirm with the seller. EDIT Here are some numbers from http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111505 1095 is 180mm - 7.1" (which might fit if you can compress the spring) 1096 is 190mm - 7.5" (possibly too long) 1104 is 130mm - 5.12" (possibly too short)

Here are some shock spring part numbers and corresponding spring rate in lbs/inch: 1091-24 457#/in 1091-26 485 1091-29 514 1091-31 542 1091-34 571 1091-36 600 1091-39 628 1091-41 657

I too can solder . But I can't crimp multiplex connectors , so Gary offered to help. I probably should have went with solder and crimped spades. It is not as pretty, but should work just as well, and it will take up less space inside the lamp. As for the teflon embedded lubricant, I imagine that would be about as good for your electrical connection as WD-40, but you are not spraying it there, right? I am not sure why Mike and Ratchet find it to be such a threat to your contacts when you are using it on the lever pivots. But as usual, my disagreement has resulted in another endless dialog. SORRY. I'll try to shut up now before someone demands a moderator

OK I guess the WD40 may seep over to the electrical contacts under that non-waterproof rubber boot, but water proof grease should not seep over there. I still find it a little hard to believe it would seep over there, but I guess so if you combine it with over-spray reaching above the connectors, it could seep in there. I know painters hate WD-40 because a little overspray can cause problems if you try to paint where the WD-40 went. I have used WD-40 on Stainless Steel Convertibars, but I spray on to a rag and then rub it in, especially into the weld that have been showing hints of rust I should probably use some navy jelly and protect it with something else.

Is that what you recommend for brake lever lubrication? I'll stick to grease, but maybe I should switch to using dielectric grease if I am so close to electrical contacts. But in a pinch, the DetoxIT may be a better choice for the lever lubrication Ooops, just looked it up and it appears to be a product for stoners to pass drug tests I did find Deoxit but it does not appear to be a lubricant.

You can get socket connectors that fit the existing wiring. Or you can get a pre-fabbed harness from Eastern Beaver. But doing it with spades or solder is fine, too. Maybe someone else has advice about crimping and soldering. I did not want the permanence of solder, and I am no good at crimping, so I got Gary Cheek to help me with that. You will love the difference in brightness!

I don't think overspray or seepage of WD40 at the lever pivots should cause switch failure. Maybe Chain lube would cause a problem. I would recommend disassembly of pivot levers to apply grease, rather than relying on penetrating lubricants.

And he probably doesn't even have a starter motor nor a tool kit for it stored up his axle. By the way, thanks for clarifying everything in that other thread before things got too crazy. I thought about putting a counter balance on my brake and gearshift to keep them neutral during bums bumps, but then I figured it would make the bike too heavy. So, a spring may be in order for the brake foot lever, even if it is not a problem. A counter balance on the shifter could result in sweeter downshifts.

I wonder how much of that is break-in and how much of that is change of tune I did not notice an improvement in MPG when I switched from OEM to Quat-D, but I did lose about 2MPG when I gave up on the Quat-D I think I can tune boy the ECU for better MPG, if I could just get around to it.

How full was his gas tank? I hope that it was full. But 260kgs wet, I think there is probably no way this SuperLight Scura owner could have gotten the weight down to 185kg wet. 185kg must be a dry weight number. Even still, very impressive that he got the weight down that low.