dlaing

GT1000 is only 407 lbs! Very pretty bikes, but I would rather have an ST.

Quat-D made a few versions of the Guzzi Ex-box. The one I previously had made a little more power below 5000 RPM but quite a bit less power above 5000 RPM. But it was more fun to ride. From the few dynos I have seen, and the Rosso Corsa I test rode, the newer Quat-Ds increased high rpm power significantly compared to the early ones. You could save effort and buy the Quat-D, but If you build your own, please post photos, results, etc., here! Someday I want to have my own, custom built with dual ports, for stereo sound, but that may never happen. Best of luck

Here are some dry weights for comparison: 2000 ST2 209.0 kg (460.8 pounds) 2000 V11S 219.0 kg (482.8 pounds) Yep, so add two light 11 pound bowling balls and they are even. If your goose had a lot less fuel than his Duck, the Goose would probably be lighter. FWIW, not all Guzzis are porkers. The small blocks are pretty darn light and flickable. 2006 V75 Breva 182.0 kg (401.2 pounds) Zebulon's Ghezzi Brian 4V 1225cc is 198kg and about 136HP. It takes a lot of work to get a Guzzi to that Power:Weight Ratio. I am pretty sure he his greatest weight savings are in the wheels, exhaust, and frame, but cutting down on weight in a lot of little places can add up to pretty big savings. You could do carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearing, titanium axles and bolts everywhere, non-metallic brake rotors, Ghezzi Brian frame, replace essential plastic with carbon fiber, lightened fly wheel, titanium rods, forged pistons, lighter weight starter, lighter battery, lighter headlight, lighter handlebars, etc. But for alot less effort, you could just trade for a Buell that would weigh about the same and not have the shaft drive handling handicap. Of course Buells have their shortcomings too, but Buell did a great job taking a hog and stripping out the pork.

Looks more like 20mm gap to me.

You might consider remapping the ECU with Tune Boy, Direct Link, replacing with MY15M, or maybe getting one of them add on gadgets. On the other hand, if the police don't hear you from 5 miles away, it makes you less likely to be targeted. A 13 stone rider will do best with stiffer than stock spring. The stock bike is sprung about right for someone weighing about 6 to 9 stone. For the rear shock: 475# is about right for a comfortable ride on quality roads. 550# is about right for aggressive sport riding and coping with mild pot holes. The stock spring is probably in the 400 to 450 pound range (stock Ohlins is allegedly 475#) Opinions are like what you sit on, everyone has one, so weigh the evidence and react accordingly. For your weight the front will do beter at about 1.0 Kg/mm...again, opinions vary Stock fork springs are alleged to vary and are probably in the 0.65 to 0.85 range.

What's a point?

Not sure about the heat cycling racing tires, but I'll bet that oil rising to the surface that Ratchet quoted is a plasticizer. Whatever...I'll let you two argue about it. Just be careful with "new" tires, whether they have been on the shelf for five years, in the Sun for a year, or factory fresh, be careful with them. FWIW I currently have an unused pair of Pirellis mounted last weekend. If I am reading the dates right, one is a 2006 and the other is a 2008, and they smell the same to me. Maybe the 2006 has less plasticizer or oil in it, but it also probably has more ozone damage to it. Which will break in faster? Which will obtain better grip once broken in? Which will last more miles? I can't really do a fair comparison since one is a Diablo (older front) and the other a Diablo Strada (newer rear) I know, some of you will never mix and match tires.

Interesting. I wonder if there is something he can do to reduce the chance of a recurrence. Obviously no wheelies, but some other things might help like, drilling the rubber in the cush drive, and making sure the cylinders are balanced, more frequently, and maybe some other things are critical like swing arm alignment, and suspension sag, maybe paint the bike black, so it will no longer be a Rosso Perhaps the mechanical veterans on the forum have some ideas on the matter?

Could that be a result of not having the U-joints lined up correctly? (ignoring the painted on alignment marks?)

But of course you should use a shortened drill bit so it won't go any deeper than the tread depth...

I went to the local Cycle Gear yesterday, hoping to order an Interact, but was quoted $213 US. So I bought the Diablo Strada for $162 instead But I am sure there will be sale prices in the future! For example Buy Rear get front FREE sales are pretty common. I could have gotten a pair of Diablos for $189, but IMHO the Diablos aren't worth as much as the Diablo Stradas. IME the Stradas last 20% longer and seem to have better wet grip, but not quite as good dry grip) I think I'll drill some holes in the center tread as indicators. I have gotten surprised by the cord after a $300 plus mile ride....

Looks like the Interact steps the Z6 up to be better than the Pirelli Corsa Strada. Come on Pirelli, give us an equivalent Strada!!! (and center tread indicator!) But I guess it won't hurt my Italian bike with Swedish and American suspension to be shod with German tires...

Here is good one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Err...ed_in_Wikipedia And of course: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_street_journal Where the word "bias" appears about 6 times. And right up the old Right Wing alley http://www.conservapedia.com/Bias_in_wikipedia Ratchet's absolute truth, I am sure...

I have never seen Wikipedia be wrong. Politically incorrect, sure, but not wrong Wall Street Journal on the other hand is full of ____!

The W I was targeting was Ratchet's favorite citation source of dubious credibility, WSJ not GWB. GWB just happened to be there.Here is what your buddy Rupert Murdoch (But it must be fake!) thinks of the parody that appears to have pushed your button... http://wsjparody.com/***WARNING F'ing bad language!*****If that does not work, try this link:

You must be ending up in their spam filter. PM me your email address and I can forward the email address and or whatever message/question you have for them. They have always been responsive to me, but I am using a .edu email address and not gmail, hotmail, yahoo, etc. (which are more likely to be marked spam.

Why not! For all our disagreements, I really appreciate your posts! I fell into the camp of mistakenly believing the vacuum proportionally adjusted the fuel pressure. Your correcting that error is appreciated. I have little interest in hooking up the vacuum line, unless I could be convinced that the fuel atomized better at lower pressure, which I suspect is the reverse of the Truth. Mapping for leaner than Stock on deceleration would give similar results with less effort, allowing for a slight increase in fuel mileage with my less than smooth riding style in the twisties. Hooking up the vacuum might slightly increase fuel efficiency for those that don't map.

Very well written, but being a hair splitter, I must point out that I get relatively steady vacuum at my TwinMax with my Guzzi lump by using bleed screws to regulate the flow. So, you could use bleed screws to smooth out the pulses at the diaphragm, but it would be at the expense of response time, possibly causing problems, and re-mapping MIGHT be needed, despite the evidence of "ZERO noticeable effect on fuel pressure, mileage, and driveability." Once the pulses are nearly eliminated Ratchet might notice the fuel pressure change if he actually uses a fuel pressure gauge.

I got my 2-way Penske from Lindemann Engineering, http://www.le-suspension.com/ They shipped with wrong size bushings at one end. This guy next day'd the right size to me: Bruce G Kleckner Penske Racing Shocks 610-375-6180 (work) 610-375-6190 (fax) Could be they want you to send them the shock because they may be getting mixed messages about what the correct dimensions are. I wanted the same measurements as the Ohlins for Guzzi eye to eye 286mm and travel of 70mm. They were able to give me eye to eye ~286mm and travel of ~68-69mm (you need a low body length to stroke ratio to maximize stroke, something HyperPro and wilbers could not deliver for me) I have been very happy with the shock.

So then you must be saying that precisely drilled square drill bit drilled holes have a positive effect on the viscous momentum and modulus of the thermo-elastic matrix!

Ditto! But Do get a "racing" shock, with all the features you can afford. The overweight Guzzi needs all the help it can get! But titanium springs are probably a waste of money, unless you just have to have the ultimate. Getting the spring rate is truly the most important aspect of the purchase, but opinions are all over the place on spring rates. For a 200# rider, ideal spring rates have been declared anywhere from 500# to 600# and maybe even out of that range. YSS, Wilbers, HyperPro, and Penske are all good bets. YSS, Wilbers and HyperPro offer lots of features for the money, and all share common design features. HyperPro offers rising rate springs, which may be an unpopular choice on the race track, but should do well on the street. Penske offers the best (IMHO) technical support and servicability. There are also many other good ones out there: See the thread I started here for more options: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5488 I chose Penske because I know parts and service will be available, and they were the only shock that came close to matching the long travel of the OEM Ohlins shocks (compared to the travel of the Sachs shock). If you are on a race track you likely won't need that travel, but in the real world, I appreciate the little extra bit of travel.

I don't know how the O2 closed loop with TuneBoy works, but am curious. They have an Innovate LCI option and logging software, but I don't know if it is available for Guzzi, although it does show up a Com port option, so the TuneEdit can talk to the ECU at the same time it is getting data from the LCI. This was not available a couple years ago. I don't run the PCIII anymore. It died a second time. The only reasons to run it at the same time were for the buttons (useful for road testing) or if I wanted to dyno it with DynoJet's Tuning Link. I usually had it removed from the bike. It died from just sitting in my garage... Oh, yah and closed loop O2 sensing clearly does have advantage when the feedback from the temperature sensor is wrong half the time But let's not mention it or this obsolete thread will get locked. Please don't go, Cliff. Japp can make a sub-forum for you here and make you an admin, right Jaap? But he might make you buy advertising space.

That makes sense. The ooozability improvement factor from drilling may be more important than the hardness. But there certainly is some room to oooze out the left side and into the corners. If you replaced the pucks with plasticene, you could mash it to paper thinness. But rubber has more integrity. Softer rubber would comply better. It does not take much drilling to let it compress more symmetrically, which should be beneficial. I drilled in from the end of the wedge, hypothesizing that it will develop an air cushion or air damping if it leaks. If it leaks and then suction cups on rebound, it may be counter productive, but doubt that is happening. In any case it allows some theoretically beneficial oozing.

Sorry, that might come across as rude. The Truth is I think it is a shame you are taking the topic there. This is one of the few lengthy technical topics to largely escape ridiculous debate, and yet it has been declared obsolete and moved to another forum. I am sure most of you will be back to argue durometers and thermal momentum. I guess it makes sense for Cliff to host a discussion. If Google does not work there, maybe Jaap could create a sub-forum here and have Cliff administer it???????