dlaing

The white paper says nothing about change interval. Are they afraid to put that in writing? My impression of the shockprook light was that I could feel an improvement when changing it after about 10,000 miles. I suspect the heavy will last longer, probably 20,000 miles, but I only have a few hundred miles on the heavy. I prefer the heavy as it seems to shift a little better, with fewer mis-shifts when hot. Cold shifts require a firmer foot, but are smooth and are no more error prone than the light shock proof. I suspect riding in wet humid conditions will require more changes of the shockproof. Keep an eye on the oil level. If it increases, it could be because of water build up. If your shift quality degrades, look to the linkage first and clean it. If the shifting is still not as good as you recall change the oil. No rising levels and smooth shifting for the next 100,000 miles could indicate that the guy Ratchet spoke to is correct

I wish you great riches so that you may easily buy a Norge AND a Griso! Don't be a stranger

To suggest that 11 million people should qualify for illegal immigration ONLY by carrying a gun for Halliburton, is completely foolish, and that type of foolishness is obviously routed in xenophobia and bigotry. And what nonsense to deport them without a gun to Iraq. I am sure at least one percent of those treated like that would come back to the US with a koran under their arm, a bomb in the backpack and a bitter agenda in mind. This type of thinking, like the Bush Wars, can be brilliant at creating more terrorists...simply brilliant FWIW I am for increasing Legal Immigration and Decreasing Illegal Immigration, but this fake Carlin crap is sheer idiocy. What we should do is give every registered Republican a tour of duty in Iraq without guns so that they can rebuild Iraq, bringing America's tarnished image to a brilliant luster while the Democrats run the country....a truly win win strategy Maybe those are the wetbacks from Canada, eh?

Apparently they sell with or without an OEM mount http://www.hyperprousa.com/catalog.php?cat...ke=Moto%20Guzzi part number varies with colors Curious to read what Ryan installed

While the surface is cooler, I think the metal does become hotter, unless one also coats the inside. One of the advertised benefits is that when the air inside is kept hot, it flows out more efficiently. Could be hogwash

Thanks for the reply. I have only skied a couple of times. Falling is certainly an art. My instinct had me roll out when falling in heavy wet snow, but this just tweaked my knee when the binding did not give Forcing the slide would have been the better approach, and body positioning could also have made a difference. As a kid I did skateboard a bit, mostly as transportation. At slow speeds I could usually roll to avoid road rash. But rolling it out at more than 5MPH is generally a bad idea. Protective equipment is a good idea! But knowing how to rely on them was a learning process. One interesting exercise to increase confidence in sliding while wearing pads is to stand at the edge of a pool or halfpipe and drop over the edge sliding to the bottom on the knee pads while keeping upright. The instinct is to roll, but injury is less likely if you slide rather than roll. I think some of that can translate over into the motorcycle world, but you are correct that often it happens so fast there is little time to decide how to fall right.

Click on the forum advertisement for TLM Teo Lamers There website could be better, but if you phone them I am sure they could tell you what you need. Looking at the animated ad, phone is +31(0)24 3711111

Thanks, I kind of imagined it smaller, but the size of it should help the readability. I like the retro look of my bike, but everything I add to it makes it look more modern, so I am on the edge of giving up on retro, and if the tach or speedo ever go out these more accurate electronic devices could be a good option.

Cheer up, it is SummerTime! Good luck with the glassing and have fun on the water

Thanks, interesting replies. Good point about not laying it down. There are only a few times when laying it down will pay dividends. one might be sliding it under a truck, but that would be a rarity if there was a situation where you could pull that off, and thinking along those lines might just get you run over while under the truck. My experiences have been almost all low sides. The exceptions being I once I bailed from a turn when I saw sand in the road, and drove into a drainage ditch, breaking off front end like in that photo and through the woods at 50+ MPH through saplings and miraculously missing bigger trees, landing relaxed on my back in a pile of leaves. And the other a low side that I fought and almost won, but turned into a high side, with ankle injuries on each side. I probably got away lucky with no upper body injury. I hit black ice once and went down so fast there was no time to react. Took a while to get up, but no injuries. I locked the front end up in the rain once, wearing no gloves...Burnt palm of hand on muffler as I pushed the bike from falling on me while sliding down the road. WEAR GLOVES! The low slides went pretty smoothly, especially on wet street car rails and wet leaves. Not sure what I did but about every time it turned out OK. The worst injury was a broken shoulder and ribs. The cause of the accident was too much front brake, while having my weight off center because I was setting up for a turn. I was still a hundred feet from the turn and easily should have been able to reduce speed, but fatigue and maybe a little sense of panic made me grab too much brake. I also may have subconsciously protected the bike by taking the impact with my shoulder, but it happened so fast, I could not tell. A few months ago, the guy in front of me low sided and broke his collar bone. What scared me most was watching his bike bounce off the guard rail, and imagining that he could have gone into or over the guard rail. Not much he could have done other than go slower and not crash. But it was good that he separated from the bike and did not slide as far as the bike slid. Stuntman train how to fall. The tips on staying relaxed and keeping limbs in, seem like good advice.

Glad to hear the head injury wore off and you came back to your senses (Just kidding, I'd love to have an Triumph ST someday) I'd like to hear your before and after impressions of the Ohlins SuperBike innards, when you get around to it.

A quick google and I turned up this article http://www.oldguy.us/easy-riding/articles/sa-crashing.php But I am looking for more tips for all the various scenarios and how to keep your body position so that you slide and don't tumble and break bones. Do you stick your arms out? Palms out? Knuckles out? legs crossed? What do you do when you are sliding quickly towards a guard rail? High side scenario, low side scenario, collision scenarios, etc.??????? I like watching racers crash, as they seem to walk away much more easily than the people I have seen or heard of crashing on the street.

I was taught not to stick your palm out when falling, but to put your palms toward your chest. Which is one of the reasons to get good knuckle protection with the gloves. I am curious to hear thoughts on how to fall properly. Maybe it is worth a thread

Interesting Rossi/Stoner article, but no supercharger article, unless I skimmed it too fast.

How visible is that TrailTech Vapor in Sun and at night? I like the simple installation

Go "read" the hooters thread But seriously, this needs resolving. Since you don't have a Tach to swap out, we should focus on the wiring. I seems like you have ground and power, so I would look to the signal wire. According to Carl Allison's diagram, between the ECU and the tachometer, the signal wire goes through two one way connectors, numbered 7 and 58. It should also go through the number 3 pin of the 26way connector that attaches to the ECU. I would seek these connections out, clean them, and add a very small amount of silver conductive paste. On the one way connectors add a small amount, but be very sparing on the 26way connector. Also clean and add conductive paste to all the connectors under the gas tank, while you are there. True a relay could cause this problem, but it seems unlikely if your headlight is working.

Did you reconnect the linkage? If so, the only thing I can think of is that either the TPS voltage slipped (It should read between 475 and 525 mV), or you messed up on the valve adjustment, or you failed to connect one of the spark plug leads(least likely). So check the spark plug wire connection first, because it is easiest, then TPS voltage second, I think it is most likely problem, if fine, then check the valve adjustment with the engine cold. Oh and documentation seems to vary on the air screws being 1/2 or 1 full turn. I am not sure which is right, but I seem to get the bike running better with them further out.

Sounds like a good strategy! It has worked for the Atlanta Braves and New York Yankees, and maybe even San Diego. We are still riding the wave of having a new stadium here....eventually we will slump again.

Again, I disagree, but don't know enough about it to argue, so I'll just drink and eat pasteurized cheeze.

Grab some for me, too, please Can you get Dutch raw unpasteurized cheeses in San Diego? Or are they illegal to import? I recall hearing about Mexican unpasteurized fresh cheeses being forbidden. I know it is worth the trip down to mexico, just to get served meals with fresh cheeses that appear not to be available North of the Border.

...except for the 29 Wins, 40 Losses, Baltimore Orioles baseball team BTW San Diego is 40 Wins and 28 losses ...and within the next three days, I suspect those 40s will turn into 43s, But I am not a fan of interleague play... But I'll bet your bike is not leaking Redline shockproof from the bevelbox, like mine But the seal should arrive this week

This thread has some info: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=5488&st=15 Fuelcooler and I each went with 2.25" x 6" He got a 500# Eibach, and I got a 475# Hyperco Hypercoil for my Sachs, which was too light for my ~230 riding weight unless my seating position was all the way forward. I now have a 550# Hypercoil on my Penske, but I am seriously considering the HyperPro (different company than HyperCo) for their rising rate spring. I previously thought it would be too stiff, but I think it is worth a gamble to try it.

Are you sure you are not American or British

The TPS wire to test are the two outer ones when looking at the TPS connector. Ignore the center one. FWIW I followed the wires up under the seat and spliced with solder test wires on to each wire to be probed. Well worth the effort to make it easy to test the TPS. IMHO (as usual contrary to Ratchet's HO) it is best to set TPS to the 150mV with linkage, etc., disconnected. When doing so, note the idle TPS voltage, and do what you can to keep it within the 475-525mV range by adjusting idle and air screws. Once done, a few subsequent TPS adjustments can be made using the 475-525mV at idle method that Ratchet endorses, as it is certainly easier, and I fear that one day, unsnapping the linkage will break it and I'll be waiting years for replacement.

As Nog indicates, if it is running fine, you might not want to mess with it. If not content, make sure your spark plugs are good, and the recommended heat range. I would start the tuning process all over disconnecting the linkage and set screws, read the TPS voltage so that you go back to what you had, then adjust it to 150mV, and re-tune it with your choice of instructions Lex' valve adjustment instructions. http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm Iain O's TB instructions http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle...zi/balance.html Carl Allison and Will Creedon's http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/tps/TPS.html MPH's http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/Tech..html Jeff Brannen's http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html The Workshop Manual is TERRIBLE for setting up the fuel injection. Doing the process over could get you where you need to be, but if not, consider the software. It will only hurt your pocket book to get the software, but it will give you peace of mind that the trim is set right, and you will be able to diagnose things in the future with fewer hanging doubts. But