dlaing

Very nice

I am already late for work...

I thought detergent combined with high engine temperatures, made it somewhat hygroscopic. The milk shake effect is from the blending of water and oil. But maybe that is only at the surface Perhaps you are correct. What then do you suppose causes the significant difference in readings? Senility? I certainly have not accurately measured the difference. To determine whether contamination had an effect we would need alot of dipstick data.

Valve cover gaskets are generally re-useable. Just be careful and keep some silicone gasket goo around, just in case you tear a gasket. And a flashed ECU is simply an ECU with a re-programmed map. Most dealers don't have the tools to flash the ECU. Flashing is usually done by a dyno tuner. You can do it yourself using Tune Boy, Direct Link, Axe One, or UltiMap, but all of them are expensive. The PCIII also changes mapping, but after the ECU. The PCIII is cheaper and easier to use, but is not as powerful in what it can do.

It would make sense to put it in Classifieds, but Classifieds does not allow "dialog" I saw one of these coasters in person and it was very nice. Perfect for setting a cold beer down next to the computer By the way, sorry I missed meeting Lex at the Rally. Them there guys talk sooooo much you can barely get a word in. Also, sorry the couple on the Norge at the Rock Store did not have a chance to ride or chat with us, as we took off like a bunch of rampaging Hooligans.

I have had similar experience and was surprised because I thought that when hot more oil would be trapped in the galleys, etc. I agree with the others that I don't think the expansion coefficient would be "significant" until you reached the boiling point, that we are nowhere near. In the brake fluid thread, we discussed how contaminants such as water and air made the expansion much more "significant". Of course if you have negative freeplay on your brake pedal or a stiction problem, and it expands just a little, the release of pressure will push the pads to the rotors. This possibly creates more heat, and more pressure, and more heat and more pressure and more heat, and then the brakes lock and you can kiss your behind good-bye. As Ratchet made the point in that thread, Clean fluid is a good thing, but I recall Pete and others pointed out that it still expands significantly, and that if the return valve on the master cylinder is shut, the expansion, even of clean fluid is significant and potentially catastrophic. Some of us argued that some significant contamination of the brake fluid was inevitable, short of changing the fluid every month. Also we argued that a little brake pedal freeplay is a good thing as it ensures there is no negative freeplay and thus less chance of the return valve becoming shut. As for the oil, I suspect that contaminants such as air and moisture also play a significant roll.

As long as that is stainless steel, I think it is a very well done repair, possibly deservative of the designation, "upgrade" My only concern would be in the event of an accident there would be a very small increase in the likelihood of injury, but that is a MINOR nitpick

They made a few other GREAT albums. Help! Rubber Soul Revolver Magical Mystery Tour The White Album (my choice if I had to pick just one) The earlier stuff wasn't bad either, but my first taste was the Yellow Submarine movie, and I am a little too young to appreciate it the earlier stuff the way teeny boppers of my mother's generation did, or maybe their music simply got better after they smoked pot. Pink Floyd defined what an album could be. As for the Clash: The Clash and Give em enough Rope were the balls, London Calling made them, and Sandinista apexed them. Bob Marley's Catch a Fire was my favorite Wailer's album, but Exodus was not bad, and probably sold more. I liked Jihem's list of influential, but am surprised to see Todd Rundgren on there. I recall be dragged to a Todd Rundgren and Utopia concert and after seeing Todd Rundgren perform I asked my friend, why is everyone leaving the concert hall? Isn't Utopia going to come on? Also, I am not a big Springsteen fan, but I know he is influential. I'd also add Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin, T-Rex, the Doors, Genesis, New York Dolls, Ramones, David Bowie, Iggy Pop, CSNY, the Who, and Led Zeppelin as being major influences for musicians. I am sure I am missing somebody....certainly the late 70s had many influences for today's music, whether Black Flag or Black Sabbath or Disco, music deviated into various genres that re-morphed into the unclassifiable musical styles of today.

If you have redline, clean and well adjusted linkage, clean clutch fluid and full clutch disengagement, then I would move on to what lies beneath the acorn The important thing to realize with the adjuster under the acorn is that it is a cam and you basically want to turn it in or out just a small amount. Never turn more than 45 degrees from what you have it at now. Remove the acorn. Mark your adjuster screw starting point, precisely. Loosen the lock nut(this required a good amount of force. A little heat might help) Adjust the screw maybe 5 degrees to the left, tighten the lock nut and see if it gets better. If it gets worse, go 5 degrees to the right of your marked starting point. If either direction gets better, but still not perfect, try going a little further, but it is very easy to go too far. You will know you have gone to far if you start blowing up shifts.

And all this time, I thought only management could track me durring work hours, and other hours....

I am sure it is an excellent tire, but probably not a great tire for cold or wet weather (sorry, don't know the Qualifier from experience, but I tried a Dunlop D220 and came to the opinion that the only better choices were Metzler/Pirelli)

Does not read like vapor lock to me, because you let it cool down, right? Nor does it appear to be relays, as the most common relay problem is that the starter won't work. I would look for another cause. I might think kickstand switch, or neutral safety relay but the neutral light was lit, right? Clutch switch would not cause backfiring. Kill switch is a possibility. EDIT possibility for rough running symptoms, not starting problem...still unlikely as the engine would not crank reliably. Loose battery connections. Going through all the connections looking for signs of oxidation and lubing connections with tiny amounts of conductive lube could fix the problem. Could also be a combination of problems, like tight valves, weak spark, weak battery, lean mixture, dirty filter, bitter lover leaving sugar in gas, etc.

You betcha. I would not use loctite on the plastic thang. I would guess that when my sensor adaptor broke I had only put about 2 or 3 foot pounds into tightening it. (It was loose, and not seated home when I had removed it) So I would guess it should be torqued to about 1 foot pound or less and IMHO I would use anti-seize. I wonder why Guzzi used an adapter housing? I figured it had to do with the sensor getting too hot. If the sensor screwed right into the cylinder head it would be measuring more of the cylinder head temperature and less of the ambient air speeding past. I figure at high speed the sensor is well cooled by passing air and the reading is low. Likewise at low wind speed, like city driving, the sensor reading is higher, more accurately reflecting the cylinder head temperature. So, in city driving the engine is leaned out more. I wonder if this could have something to do with it passing emissions testing??? I have noticed that when coming to a stop after a high wind speed run the idle is low (and sometimes stalls) But in stop and go city driving the idle is higher. I have experienced more of this variation since switching to the brass sensor adapter housing. (but it could be coincidental as I did other things at the same time, like service the air filter.) My plastic sensor adator housing has been on order since 7-15-06...Get your act together Moto Guzzi!!!! But the brass one works well enough, so I have not pushed the dealer to pester Guzzi/Piaggio. I think adding thermal grease, solder or a spring would help transmit the temperature better.

Here is the unauthorized long answer (although I am sure there are couple of guys on the forum that can give a longer answer) Guzzi in there unparalled wisdom delivered your bike with built-in adapters. Or maybe it was not wisdom and they just did it as part of the fuel evaporation recovery system The hoses that came with the twin max simply attach to the brass hose fittings protruding out of the intake manifold. The brass nipples may have either a hose or a rubber stopper covering the nipple. It is possible that the PO aka Previous Owner, put screws in place of the brass nipple, in which case you need an adapter Not sure if they are 5 or 6mm One thing that worked for me is that I put adjustable inline airvalves between the twin max and the manifold nipples so that the air pressure is stabilized and the needle does not flutter. (of course it is one more thing to adjust )

Judging by the measurements, I think I was Wrong and the Ohlins springs would fit fine with longer spacers. I would do what Ratchet said and just pull the springs.

Redline Shockproof Heavy should help. Clean will adjusted linkage can help. I find I blow downshifts if don't lift my foot after clicking down. Lowering the shifter can help that. Also, the adjuster under the acorn may need adjusting, but it is a little tricky to adjust properly, so try the other things first.

I should have written that Guzzi POSSIBLY did it to reduce the temperature. To my mind it is a lot more expensive to manufacture a piece that is two parts brass and one part plastic, than one that is one part brass. But yah, if Luigi makes it in Mandello, it is going to cost a lot more than if it is mass production item. Still I believe that the sensor tip temperature is a more accurate indicator than temperature at the threads and that insulating the sensor body will result in a more accurate reading of the cylinder head. But I am not such a stickler that I would trade for plastic one I am content with having wrapped the threads with teflon, but I might consider a conductor for the sensor tip, or removal of the teflon if the sensor is not heating up enough. I need to log some temperature sensor readings But hopefully RolloGuzzi will do it first, so I won't have to.

uh, you better shorten the name cause your fans didn't pay to see your BIG name Patches Detroit or Patches Audobon

Cool! Thanks for weighing all that. True evidence of the superiority of the QuatD, that I stupidly traded away dreaming of HP. Note also that the QuatD moves the weight forward and down and centered.

BUMP Don't forget the Marshmallows Beer

What is wrong with North Koreans? You'd be better off saying, Thank the Gods Antonio is not American. What idiots: How the hell does the U.S. expect any credibility after they disarmed Iraq before attacking it? A painted pie in the sky is an UNDERSTATEMENT!!!

I nominate BFG for FOUR bodge points!!!!

I'll bet if everyone on the forum greased it and went for a ride, more than half would notice an immediate improvement. Plain bearings suck. I am truly surprised the industry standard is not something better. People spend hundreds of dollars upgrading to radial masters, meanwhile needle bearings or teflon bearings could be a cheaper and nearly as beneficial modification. I might have to do some tests to determine how much force is reduced by: old grease vs. no grease vs. new grease vs. needle bearings.

They answered! SWEEEEEET!!!!! Now I just need a few thousand Euros, some track lessons, some talent, and then I can eat R1s for Breakfast 140HP is a bit much for me, so I might get a restrictive exhaust, something like the QuatD, but more restrictive and in STEREO( 2 into 2 ). Combined with the stock airbox, probably make the final output a much more reasonable for street, 120HP, but still with PLENTY of torque!!!!!!

Lassie Achterburgwal the star of "Lassie Come Home" and "Lassie Does Dallas" (I think Dallas was TXRedneck's first dog???)