dlaing

Yah, I suppose there could be a half a coil wound up between minimal pre-load and no-preload. There is NO WAY (short of $100) that I am pulling that spring out. It was a major pain to get the one out that was replaced by the Hypercoil. Ratchet's measurement is definately more accurate. I think the paint is the only problem in the calculation. But I still think the HyperCoil does not fit the calculator model.

Exactly! and the point I am trying to make is that the Sachs spring reads to be firmer than the 475# HyperCo spring, despite my sag measurements indicating that the HyperCo spring is firmer than the Sachs spring. And both calculated measurements show a much firmer spring than what they are in reallity. My measurements may not be accurate enough to determine the spring rate to within plus or minus 15# but they are accurate enough to within maybe plus or minus 30# So, to me this throws up a red flag about the accuracy of the calculator. But if we take Ratchet's measurements and subtract 50# because of the paint, that would put us at about 450# which would match up pretty well with my sag measurements. So, maybe the calculator is right and my caliper is off by a full dial increment When I measured coils the preload ring was backed as far off as possible, but maybe it is still bound enough that I mis-read the free coil count. And the diameter was just plain tricky to measure. So Ratchet is probably correct for once, and I am wrong Or our springs are different!!!

I figured as much "Unstepped" like a pair of unused shoes Maybe Scre will find more enthusiasm once the new rubber is fitted

here is a good article http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

By the way, anybody have a clue about what Bungdendore means or how it got its name? One of things that concerned me about the levers was whether or not they would fit between the inner shoulder of the rubber hand grips and the Napoleon® bar end mirrors(another Moto Moda subsidiary? No wonder he does not need to make a vulgar profit on the shloppage sheets). As it turns out, the levers appear to be identical in length but the portion of the Pazzo lever from the bend to the end is slightly shorter, so I can move the caliper slightly inward on the bar to give a hair more more clearance from the mirrors. This also results in SLIGHTLY more leverage. It is only a slight improvement over the Brembo levers, but worth mentioning because if the bend in the levers was closer to the grip's inner shoulder, I might not have been able to keep the Napoleons. You can't see in the image, but the lever clears the Napoleon by somewhere between 4 and 5 mm. (measured 3/16" with calibre plastique) In order to get the same clearance, the Brembo lever needed to wedge up to the grip shoulder more than the Pazzo. Also the curve on the inside of the Pazzo lever lets you pull it in slightly further. It is a well thought out lever

What does unstepped mean?

Hmmmmm, Grand Prix Moto and Moto World Online both have Moto in the name. I wonder if they are the same company??? When the deal expires in June the price will be $169, coincidentally the same price as the eBay deal... Just a reminder, FalcoLion's "Group Buy" ends at the end of May, so act fast if you wanna save ten bucks. For me it was $159.00 shipped free from NYC to California. I don't know what he charges out of the US but I am sure he makes the profit on the item, not the shipping, unlike some scoundrels.

Diablo Corsa is an excellent tire, but it was recently discontinued so it might not be as fresh as say a Diablo Corsa III or just a Diablo. The Diablo Corsa III being the more serious sport bike tire and the Diablo being a bit more worthy for cold and wet. If the manufactured date on the Diablo Corsa is not too old you might go for it. EDIT and dittos on the 160!!!

...and for anyone sticking with stock, installing these reminded me of how important it is to grease these. I used the MobilONE grease that someone on the forum recommended. (the color matches the Pazzos ) The feel is much nicer now and the pull is easier. I think I have only greased them once in 6.5 years of ownership. Perhaps a cheap nice fix would be needle bearings or a teflon bearing And just a reminder...don't lose the brake switch bearing, nor the actuator for the clutch switch.

Here is a Higher Resolution image, (538kb) if anyone needs more detail...

I don't see a hitch listed for the Guzzi. Which hitch did you use?

So, there was no cotter pin? Interesting.... That bolt is surely a good place to use Loctite or other thread locking compound

Very Funny! They probably should have named this bike the Le Dondotennilino IMHO I like it, but wish it looked more like an MGS01

There is a discussion about this bike on the less evolved people's forum http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11363&hl=

I am pretty sure my 2000 screw into the swing arm and then the cube like thing fits on a the end of the screw. The brake bracket slides over the cube like thing. But according to the parts catalogs the 2000 has no cotter pin and the 2003 has a cotter pin and looks different.

Heck I don't think I have had a rear tire last 5000 miles and still be legal to ride on. With no dry rot, and legal tread, I would not worry about it, as long as you don't ride it too agressively it should be fine. Just keep in mind the chicken strips may have dried out and lost some of their grip. (assuming you have chicken strips) When the rear gets close to the wear indicator, you should replace it, and most would recommend the front at the same time, regardless of tread. You can test your tread with a US penny. Turn the penny so Lincoln’s head is pointing down and insert it into the tread. If the tread doesn’t cover Lincoln’s head, it’s time to replace your tires. In your case if it is even close, you should replace it. If you don't have tread in the center, it is more difficult to measure. With your annual mileage, you should probably select this year's latest model to ensure that the manufactured date is recent. I think something with a little more grip than wear might be up your alley, maybe a Metzeler M1 or Pirelli Diablo??? Also, I think you over-due for valve stem replacements.

Your hitch frame will probably require you to jack the bike up higher than would normally be necessary. Let us know how that works out! Gargoyle's post on the trailer is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11341&hl=

It is a piece of cake to pu the rear wheel back with the pin in place. Just put the rear wheel on to the rear drive, shove the axle in to just before it pokes out of the wheel so there is room to slide in the brake bracket, From below the disk, slide the caliper on to the disk than bring the caliper and bracket upward so it alligns nicely for the axle to slide through. I usually support the wheel with a 2x4 cantilever under the tire so that the axle can push relatively straight through. I hope that helps. But I am a little concerned about the bolt just turning. Mine doesn't, it just comes off. If it were to fall out, it could cause your rear end to lock up Your threads could be stripped. Any second opinions on that? I don't want to get you all paranoid about nothing. Maybe it is normal.

HyperCo says their springs are made of high tensile chrome silicon, micro alloys, titanium, alloy steels and stainless. I suspect my Hypercoils are made for a chrome silicon alloy steel. It is significantly lighter than the Sachs spring. Could it be thinner per spring rate????? Is the Sachs spring powder coated?

ONLY READ THE FOLLOWING IF REALLLLLLLY BORED... Not to be a picker of nits here either, but the caliper is precision plastic that CAN measure 1.00" or 0.10" or 0.01" The plus or minus accuracy is untested, but is probably accurate to better than +/- .0025" I can still eyeball and estimate easily to within a quarter of a .01" increment or .0025" Combining my inaccuracy with the rulers, I suppose I could be off by as much as 0.005" Calipers are alot like telescopes and microscopes. Just because it says it is 1000X does not mean that it is ten times better than 100X. Resolution is as important or more important than magnification. Not to say my Plastic Caliper is high rez, just that it is not worse than times the inaccuracy of a .001" caliper and it is probably better because of what I can eyeball. If the ruler is used for comparison of a Sachs and a HyperCo spring, the accuracy is greater than if comparing against absolute true measurement. If I had eyeballed the 0.44" and 0.42" measurements that I made of the spring "wire" thickness, I would have eyeballed them at 0.441" and 0.421" so in my opinion the spring rates would have been higher than my suprisingly high result. My guess is that the error potential on the plastic ruler is to within a result of + or - 20 pounds. I think that is accurate enough to challenge the accuracy of the online spring calculator. But as you said, paint thickness can make a big difference in the outcome. .01" results in over 50 pounds of different spring weight. Of course if you believe Ratchet and think my caliper is accurate to plus or minus .01" than I could be off by plus or minus 50 pounds. But of course Ratchet and I can't even measure the number of free coils the same way. One of you should buy my Sachs shock with HyperCoil so you measure it Or I can buy a better caliper and still goof the measurement Measuring the coil width was a real pain, but the result there is less critical, but I am sure my technique resulted in greater inaccuracy than my caliper's inaccuracy. So, I give up, because uness I chip the paint off, the measurements are useless. And in less I buy a caliper that "Claims" to be accurate to .001 you won't believe my measurement.

Issues I thought were important are: that Guzzi probably added the sensor housing because plugging into the head directly is probably too hot. Guzzi went from a Brass sensor housing to an insulated housing POSSIBLY because too much heat was getting to the sensors body, rather than the sensor tip. This was a good idea accept there is a delay as the air has to heat up and transmit to the sensor. I think a little solder would make an ideal conduit to the tip, or maybe a spring??? I suppose a glob of anti-seize is not a bad idea as it is pretty well sealed. If you have a brass sensor, insulating between the sensor threads and housing with teflon tape might be a good idea.

There was no "will call" option, just a "give us your credit card number and we'll bill you whatever we want for shipping" option. nice. But thanks for the offer! I did not know you were in So-Cal. Hope to see you on a group ride I am pretty sure I could have gotten the cable at Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics for much less money, but I did not want to take a chance with pin assignment. The salt on the wound came from the fact that I bought this on eBay and the seller repeatedly "forgot" to ship the cable to me. I gave him so many chances that the opportunity to give him bad eBay marks passed....lesson learned about being too nice Probably half my savings from buying second hand on eBay got eaten up by the cable purchase....oh well, it is relatively small money.

That looks cool! My wife and I are going camping, but we have to take her car and my bike....too much gas money If we had one of these we could just take the bike We need details!!! Are the tires Z rated?(just kidding) Although I wonder how stable it is at high speeds and in cross winds. Will this modification help you keep up with hyperbikes? (just kidding) What did you do for a hitch? Someone could make a small fortune making V11 hitches and mounting kits for Givi Saddlebags (not really make a fortune, but the Guzzi community would appreciate it )

You talkin' to me? Want me to post pictures of my "Adult" caliper? It is not nearly as accurate for measuring small things, unlike yours. So, I stick to the plastic caliper. It is more than accurate enough to within a hundredth of an inch, but to within a thousandth it is only an estimate. Good point about paint thickness, that could reflect the difference. Do you really think spring material does not make a difference? To confirm, I'll let Ratchet use his Adult caliper on my....never mind, bad idea. HyperCo boasts about how powdercoating is the ideal choice because it is thinner than paint

DARN!!!! I wanted to be the first kid on the block!! But BFG beat me to it from http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=11299&st=0 "Keep the home fires burning"