dlaing

Excellent points. I too have never been in a situation where overheating threatened the bike, although once while balancing the TBs the pipes started to glow. My fear of overheating would occur if I dare tried to optimize the fueling to improve fuel efficiency. Potentially increasing leaness or ignition advance to the point where one might get an extra 5 or10 MPG would push the engine temperature up to the point where hours of lane splitting across LA (at a safe pace) could damage the engine. I intend to data log with sensor data of WBO2, RPM, Throttle Position, and engine temperature. Exhaust Gas Temperature would be more meaningful, but it is a lot easier for me to log engine or air temperature. I have been procrastinating on logging data for two years But my data cable for my LM1 from Innovate arrived today!!! ($12.95 plus $15.95 shipping from Innovate in Irvine, CA to SD, CA, for a simple serial cable that I probably could have got for $5...It would not bug me so much if the online form disclosed the shipping price before the order was complete

No need to remove fender parts nor muffler nor the bolt that holds on the brake caliper You do need to un-clip the brake line from a few of the clips so that it can drop away from the wheel. The brake caliper will come off once the axle is removed enough. It is helpful to not pull the axle all the way out. Keeping it in helps prevent loss of washer and bearing race on the right side, makes reassembly quick and easy. Beware of the spacer between the wheel and hub, it will want to fall out or not when you don't expect it and roll under a table, like the freedom loving meatball in that song, On top of spaghetti, All covered with cheese, I lost my poor meatball, When somebody sneezed. It rolled off the table, And on to the floor, And then my poor meatball, Rolled out of the door. It rolled in the garden, And under a bush, And then my poor meatball, Was nothing but mush. The mush was as tasty As tasty could be, And then the next summer, It grew into a tree. The tree was all covered, All covered with moss, And on it grew meatballs, And tomato sauce. So if you eat spaghetti, All covered with cheese, Hold on to your meatball, Whenever you sneeze.

or in the sing-song manner of the Knack's song MO-tuh GOOT-zee Oo my little pretty one, pretty one When you gonna give me some time, GOOT-zee? Oo you make my motor run, my motor run Gun it coming off of the line, GOOT-zee Never gonna stop, give it up, such a dirty mind I always get it up with a touch of the younger kind My-ee ey-ee by-ee ahee ah woo! Mo Mo MO-tuh GOOT-zee Come a little closer, over here Close enough to look in my eyes, GOOT-zee Keep a little mystery, kissin' me Runnin' down the length of my thigh, GOOT-zee Never gonna stop, give it up, such a dirty mind I always get it up from a touch of the younger kind My-ee ey-ee by-ee ahee ah woo! Mo Mo MO-tuh GOOT-zee Mo Mo MO-tuh GOOT-zee When ya gonna get to me, get to me Is it just a matter of time, GOOT-zee Is it a destiny, a destiny Or is it just a game in my mind, GOOT-zee Never gonna stop, give it up, such a dirty mind I always get it up from a touch of the younger kind My-ee ey-ee by-ee ahee ah woo! Mo Mo MO-tuh Mo Mo MO-tuh Myee ey-ee by-ee ahee ah woo! Mo Mo MO-tuh GOOT-zee Ooooh my GOOT-zee

Out'o'whack indeed! I just got back from garage to find you post happilly confirming my scepticism of the conversion tool at Guzzitech. Here are the numbers in inches from my plastic caliper: Sachs EDIT I struck some mis-calculated numbers and the result is even worse!!! Wire diameter .44 Coil diameter 2.89 2.65 Number of free coils 4.5 #/in 517 657!!!!That can't be right!!!! HyperCo spring sold as 475#/in and which helped reduce my sag compared to the Sachs spring above. Wire diameter .42 Coil diameter 2.93 2.72 Number of free coils 4.0 #/in 454 568!!!!That can't be right!!!!! I am now using a 550#/in HyperCo spring sold as a 550#/in and the sag is finally "correct" (if there is such a thing) FWIW the HyperCoils are claimed to be top quality and about as light as you can get without using Titanium. My guess is that the HyperCoils are made from a stronger metal that reduces weight by using a thinner coil...making the conversion invalid.

Cliff, have you considered using the cylinder head temp sensor to keep the engine from overheating, possibly by enrichening if it gets too hot??? Or better retarding the ignition to reduce the temperature?? Would that be a bad idea?

I am kind of surprised it is not worse of a problem than it is. They typically get an account and post one post, almost always in "Wanted" You think that once they got their account they would have a free for all. Perhaps even these slimey bastards have some sense of mercy. I was thinking if we change "Wanted" to something like "Guzzi Stuff Wanted", it might break their script, and then if they rewrite it, we can keep changining it. Thank Goodness they don't spam our more sacred forums, like the Banter forum or the Hooters thread!!!

I use to proudly pronounce it goootseee, and happilly correct people, but then I got lazy and started letting people call it gooozeee, and then it got worse and I also started calling it gooozeee, and then I started riding my gooozeee around really slowly like it was a sow's ear on meds, but then I read this thread and said, enough is enough! It is time to get out and RIDE that Moto GoooTSeee!!! ....and call it by its proper name

I love it! Now, if bigbore.it would just answer their email

The Ohlins on the Cafe Sport and Corsas are much firmer than the Marzocchi that came with my bike. The Scuras might be a little softer. I highly doubt the Ohlins springs will fit the Marz.

Ouch!!! I felt so sorry for myself when I broke my shoulder years ago, but yours is surely more major. Good thing you are a fast healer. All the best MoJo to you for the surgery and recovery PS quit typing with your nose, we need to keep you looking good

You would be making an excellent point if you had not pulled the quote ignoring the full context of that quote. Here is the original, with what you quoted in italics: So, it would be kind of like me saying, if you put a Roush 402IR engine and suspension and brake modifications into a Ford Mustang, that a Ford Mustang can be competitive with a Porsche 911 GT3 RS on just about any road. We obviously agree that an extremely modified V11 can keep up with hyperbikes. Now we can all just get along right? If you want to argue that it is no longer a Mustang or no longer a V11, fine, whatever, it is absolutely whatever you want it to call it, "A Roushtang" or a "BigBoreV14", even though my registration will still list my bike as a V11. FWIW the Roush is a complete engine replacement, while the Big Bore kit retains the bottom end, as has been mentioned over and over. The Roush upgrade might better parallel putting Paul M.'s 8 valve V12 in a V11, not that it makes any more power than the BigBore modification of the V11...

The Electrex instructions say to by-pass the factory wiring. I too initially tried to use the factory wiring, after all the wire gauge appears to be the same, but the voltage output was too low....about 13.5V maximum, if memory serves right. The restriction combined with a weak battery could have caused the amps to rise and fry your wiring. I hope your regulator survived. Judging from the symptoms, your battery is likely fine, as long as you don't overcook it with the charger. The important thing is to bypass the factory wiring. I ran about a foot of the electrex main wire to an inline fuse, and then switched to a heavier gauge wire. Grounding directly to the battery will also ensure that everything is optimal. The shop manual has some good information about checking the charging system. The Electrex Regulator will have a lower maximum Voltage....I get about 13.9V

That is your first somewhat sensible post so far. Way to go! Now, if we could just get you to recognize that it is OK to take a well set up V11 and keeping up with hyper bikes that are going THE PACE, you might be on the road to recovery from bitter humbug disorder But somehow I suspect you will always equate BigBore with BigFoot, despite the photos and track records of Guareschi, you hang on the belief that the BigBore kit cannot be used on a V11. I have asked repeatedly why you know it would not work, but you would rather write a thousand word essay on how I am not grounded by Earth's gravity. Certainly makes entertaining reading for juvenilles.

May I have one? Please!!! My Radio Shack switch has held strong for quite a while, but a few more rain storms could kill it as it is not water proof.

You don't even believe in "proof" I showed you how it can be done. RobbieG testified that he could keep up with the hyperbikes. Keep your head buried in the sand and you will always be correct about EVERYTHING. Go get your R1 and try to keep up with the people doing 120MPH on Mount Palomar's sweepers. ...it was nicing knowing ya. RatchetHack, born 1752, died 2007 RIP But before you go buy your R1, take a last gander at the exploits of GeruGuzzi on a barely modified Guzzi (not competing against hyperbikes) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...sult_type=posts Give the man a bigbore kit plus $20,000 bike improvement budget and I have complete faith that he could compete against a stock R1. But surely he'll have to do something about the cornering clearance. Somehow he seems to be violating the rules of THE PACE...

I went to a hotel in San Jose, CA. We checked in and first use of toilet resulted in overflowing and a small flood. Got new room, but both pillows were covered with blood, one had so much dried up blood as if someone was using them to mop up a coat hanger abortion or a gun shot wound. Got pillows from flooded room and the manager made me feel like I should have just grinned and beared the blood under the pillow case. When I showed him the pillows he said something like, "so, what do you want me to do about it?" Well, I want a clean pillow!!!! He probably had suspicions that we were trouble, stuffing up his toilet and then whining about blood stained pillows. But that was not the worst of it. The worst was the banging on doors and shouting that went on through most of the night by drug dealers and prostitutes. But somehow, I still got some sleep.

How many times can you re-"read" a thread If I start googling for submissions to that thread, you'll never hear from me again...might be a good thing Here is a good one with Guzzi content, assuming that is still allowed:

35-50mm does not refer to dive, but to the difference between fork fully extended when bike is lifted, and where its at with bike and rider weight added. The greater that number, the more prone to a dive problem. I think what badmotorgeezer said makes sense, but I wonder why no oil is leaking out? Are Up-Side-Down forks designed to not leak as much when the seals blow?

What?!? Now we can't talk motorcyles!?! That is going to get boring fast.

FWIW, Ohlins recommends Without rider: Front: 25-30 mm With rider: Front: 35-50 mm If I dare speculate.... I am inclined to think unladen sag of about 20% (24mm) regardless of riding style, and laden sag of about 25%(30mm) would be near ideal for sport and laden sag of 30%(36mm) would be ideal for touring. Sport/Touring might be about 33mm. YMMV My Ohlins were last measured at 26mm unladen and 36mm laden. I find this to be too soft, especially after getting 550#/inch spring for the rear, so I plan on getting firmer springs. Start with sag. You certainly can adjust something. It is a little worrisome that it just started having a dive problem. But maybe you are just getting familiar with the brakes, etc. Or someone messed with your daming settings. Once you know the sag, you may get by with adding preload and or damping. FWIW my preload is already maxxxed out.

Whoooohooo! Nice trophies!

Thank you for helping me realize Heck, I really don't want hyperbike performance. I'd be scared I'd kill me self on a bloody big bore "V11" I just want a phat torque curve and 100HP. I don't mind the weight so much, because muscling it through the turns is more fun and probably safer than going through them faster than I can think I was never very good at video games, and in video games you get endless lives. Keep it real. As for the argument, all I am saying is two points: 1) keeping up with hyperbikes ridden by sensible riders on the public roads is completely doable on a V11. If they are having to wait up for you at the crossroads for too long, looking into track school and bike modifications can reduce or eliminate the time they have to spend waiting for you. If they are to impatient, find others to ride with. If they are actually riding the hyperbikes on the street so fast that they are beyond the capabilities of a well setup V11, then IMHO there is a good chance they are either too damn stupid or have death wishes, maybe both, find others to ride with. (Ratchet are you suggesting people should buy hyperbikes to keep up with the lunatics?) 2) It is possible to bring a V11 nearly up to the level of performance of a BOT champion and for the most part, beyond the performance level of the fastest big four stock hyperbikes. It would be a little heavier, and probably a little slower than Guareschi's, to be street legal and street worthy, but it would shred at a level that the best stock hyperbikes would not be able to keep up with on most roads, given equal expert riders. Why would you want to do that? Heck, I don't know, but as far as I can tell, it is possible. The top-end of the engine would have to be replaced and water cooling added, but it would be an engine modification and not an engine replacement. But maybe I am wrong and the kit only works on 850 and 1000cc Guzzis. In that case you would have to find someone to swap engines with minus the front case to fit the frame, so you would retain part of the V11. I am sure some of the veterans on this forum could tell us if the kit would work, since it works for 850 and 1000cc engines.

That is a good deal! I paid ~$15+ for a pair of bungs and $70 to install them, so a total of $85. So, if you think you might possibly custom map the bike, I would take advantage of the $20/per deal!

I am all in favor of spacing out ...but not when riding But seriously, excellent points I have never been comfortable riding side by side or even within a two second following distance, but sometimes I fall momentarilly within a two second following distance. I think some get a false sense of security from being in staggered formation with a one second or less following distance, but if you have to dodge a bike that is tumbling down the road after bouncing off the rear of a truck that suddenly appeared in your path, you will want as much reaction time as possible. Shoot happens and it is best to be prepared. However we don't know the details here, and it very well could be that the truck driver tried to fit in between the two or three second following distance, and a tighter formation might have prevented the accident. I know one of the riders and he is an excellent rider with plenty of track and off-road experience, and he knows better than to push it on the street. They were within the legal speed limit, but the accident still happened. It is just very boring to always drive as if suspecting a herd of elephants is hiding behind every blind turn, and besides, you would probably get rear ended if you drove that slowly. Some things are simply un-avoidable. Some are afraid to ride in groups, but if you crash, it is often a great blessing to have the group there for you....as long as they don't run you over. Pick your group wisely.