dlaing

Napoleons R0CK! They are like Bull Horns against car mirrors , and will hold up well durring crashes Trust me on that...no need to test the validity. They have a nice wide angle, are not blocked by elbows and phat bodies, they flip up nicely for lane splitting, and they help suppress handlebar vibes, but they do get blurry from the vibes themselves, although maybe the vinyl you use may reduce that I was thinking of putting lead weights on mine.

http://www.technoresearch.com/ The Direct Link and the VDSTS ( Not VD nor STD) both offer what you seem to want. They also have a dashboard unit that might give you what you need. Tuneboy's TuneEdit can also give a tach readout, but only the numbers, not the image of a tachometer. But if they ever finish the diagnostic for Guzzi, it will have a graphical dial type tach. http://www.tuneboy.com.au/Products/Products.html I am sure Axeone can also provide a tach reading

Sounds good to me! EDIT I suppose it is limite in that you can't change the rear shock and a few other things. If you put it under the pork chops, I suppose lifting the front would be easier article on pitbull stand http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/motorcycle-paddock-stand/ Like Nige said, Nice Job!

Is that a fact!?! We have plenty in our backyard and the website freely serve up a taste of the music, unlike many other superstars who nickel and dime you just for a taste of what they are selling. Bloody pimps and whoes!

temerature might have an effect. Also, rain water and moisture getting in, possibly increasing the capacity and maybe the frothiness of the strawberry shake

Where does Motoman say, that over 300 motors were disassembled after break-in, having been broken-in both HIS WAY and the OEM recommended way?

That seems like a low voltage to end the charge at. If Ratchet's intention is not to go over 14.3V with a Sears charger he should watch it carefully....or his Odyssey may die hard Some automotive chargers won't go over voltage you want and some will go well over the voltage that you want. RTFM Be careful and your frugal investment may pay dividends

That looks like a good choice. It seems to meet all of Hawkers specifications. Except for the Deep Cycling requirement of 13A. US 3300 seems to be US model http://www.ctek.com/us/MUS3300/features_benefits.asp

Hey Bahia Fast Guzzi, thanks for keeping us posted. Cool website and music http://carlinhosbrown.uol.com.br/ So, when are you getting your bikes and stuff shipped there? Have you figured out a way to stay and make a living? I'd offer to be your body guard but you would not live long under my protection Martin Barrett could be your man

What bugs me is that the dyno operator wears hearing protection and probably can't hear pinging. For peace of mind, do the dyno run after a recent oil change with shock proof heavy where appropriate Also, don't put a ping prone bike on the dyno, although ping prone bikes are the ones that need the dynotuning the most. I think a racetrack break-in would be better for Guzzi Karma.

Yah, no rpm increase is not stalling, it is only closer to the point of stalling than slow rise in rpm. Sorry, I spoke unclearly.. I would agree that stalling an engine is likely bad for it. Yes, we are in agreement that a "slow rise" in RPM, when at lower RPMs with significant throttle opening is lugging. The MotoMan method is lugging. In my opinion less harm will come from WOT in sixth gear at 2500rpm than at 5000rpm as long as the load is not so great that there is no increase in rpm. I don't recommend driving WOT in sixth at 2500, because it is easy enough to down shift and go faster. Why lug it if you don't have to. But lugging a V11 it is not like lugging an older Guzzi where pinging would be likely, which would be harmful. Lugging to the point of pinging is bad and should never be done, not even when breaking it in. But the V11 won't ping if properly tuned, so I say rest easy if you lug it, don't sweat it like you did with bikes of old. The only thing that will happen is your rings and cylinders will wear out slightly sooner, but probably less sooner than WOT at 5000RPM.

I guess that our definitions of lugging are different. My humble apologies for the misunderstanding. My definition for lugging would include a slow rise in RPM, such that common sense would dictate under normal riding conditions to downshift. I would call your definition closer to "stalling"

I think your reading of 13.4V was a mis-reading. I only get that high a reading after charging or riding. Also, Hawker is consistent in everthing I read, to with .1V... EDIT maybe the reading was 12.4V, that might explain the V changing to 12.7V after a few minutes of charging, but 11.6V at the charger indicates the charger or battery or both are toast.

I mentioned the MotoManMethod to Don Angel years ago. I don't remember his answer clearly, but I recollect him saying something like, yes, people do that, and then he went on about his strategy which seemed to be somewhere between the book and the moto-man-method. Vary the revs, don't do long freeway trips, don't lug it, yadda yadda yadda. It could be some dealers feel obligated by contract with Guzzi, to back up Guzzi's recommended break-in strategy, or atleast no sway far from it. Few are going to stick their necks out and go against the common beliefs by telling people to lug an engine to break it in. MotoMan himself is not upfront about that aspect of his breaking in strategy. And Ratchet, you certainly were not up front about it. Probably because of years of a belief of thinking it is bad. I think we had five or six people say it was bad after I mentioned that it is not bad. Dr.Know is the first here to openly take that daring stance and say to lug it the first hundred miles

Unfortunately there is no concensus about what to buy and clamp or not clamp. Gary Cheek is confident with no clamp on MobilOne filters. Ryland recommends, and I agree, Purolator L10241 If well tightened, no need for clamp. Ryland said it seemed to torque confidently at 1-1/8 turns. Others appear happy with the SuperTech simply tightened to 3/4 turn. And still others are happy with the UFI, which I would not use without a clamp. Some say to tighten the number of recommended turns, and some say a little more. Some say to tighten till it feels right. I say go with atleast the recommended number of turns, but make sure you are also getting enough foot/pounds of torque. I am not sure what that is. From what I have read, that may be between about 10 and 20 foot/pounds. But too tight and the rubber gasket may be compromised.

I was about to write, "Where is the Punchline!!!!!!" Very funny, grazi!

Very Clever! I nominate you for Bodge Point

I bought a 6A Odyssey Optimizer. It works great, but was a little over $100. A better deal appears to be the $70 6A Odyssey Ultimizer http://www.batterymart.com/c-odyssey-ultim...y-chargers.html It won't whack your battery hard with over 15V of battery killing whomp. It will stay within the recommended range. You might want to reserve whacking it for when she won't put out despite giving her hours of 14.4 to 14.8V Gary Cheek, Ryland and I had a lengthy battle over how hard you should whack it. After a few days of bickering, I yielded that it is OK to go over 15V, but I would not yield that it is OK to do that for very long nor very much over 15V. I will only use the automotive charger if the battery won't recover otherwise. Obviously Greg Field has plenty of experience resurrecting and maintaining AGM batteries. And so did Gary Cheek. Gary mentioned getting years of service out of Odysseys with an automotive charger that put out more than 15V. Perhaps Odyssey gets kickbacks for promoting certain chargers Maybe, maybe not. I shelled out the money to play it safe. But I am sure others are getting by fine whacking it. The Optimizer mounts on my wall and comes with a quick disconnect for easy charging. I can plug it in for minutes or hours and feel confident of the performance. No need for alligator clips to short out against the ECU.

If that is to scale, I think the stock lines may be fine. Make sure you fully extend the forks after mounting to make sure the brake lines are not put into a state of tension And check that throttle speed is not effected by turning the handle bars...Of course But it does not hurt to repeat warnings about things I know some people overlook Click here for 20" ape hangers photo!

Since you run the oil level well above factory recommended, I suppose it may show a minute improvement. But run it between the high and low marks with dipstick in and I am sure you will get more power, but there will be no measurable difference between plate and no plate. But of course you should not do that off the dyno as it may suck air when accellerating up hill.

One thing to keep in mind is that someone, I think Ryland, suggested that the filter may balloon a bit when under pressure. This POSSIBLY could be too much pressure for the hatch to handle with the filters nut bearing down on it. You might want to make sure you have a little clearance. How much, maybe the distance of 1/2 turn on the threads. That way if it starts to come undone, it should not get looser than gasket making contact, and maybe the ballooning pressure will force it to screw back on Not likely, but at least it will be less likely to come off while under pressure. I like DeBen's idea of grinding the nut down enough to give it the proper clearance. EDIT another idea would be to put a shloppage shleet between sump and pan.

The Suzuki was an over-weight bomb. Mazda has made great progress with rotaries. Once they started turbo-charging they got a whole lot of zoom-zoom ® Still for a motorcycle, the Mazda rotaries are a bit big. The best option might be the RX-8's 13B-MSP RENESIS I think it would be the best option because the got the power of the 13B single turbo out of the 13B. So it is lighter and more simple than the turbo version. Damn it is BFUgly And, still a big and way more power than needed. If only they made one with half the bulk and power.

I guess it all boils down to relative perspective Slow Food>>>>>>>>>Soul Food>>>>>>>>>>>>BBQ

Maybe Nicky has chunked up Looking at the numbers, assuming riders being roughly equal, Ducati is the favorite for MUSCLE and Yamaha the favorite whatever else makes a bike fast ( I still say it is the reverse direction motor, and maybe the Yamaha Ohlins connection helps, but people prefer to think of Rossi as simply God like, when in fact he is simply the best ever ), with Honda now being the underdog....WTF But I guess the real underdog is KR junior

So, your answer is yes, a top end job followed by the moto-man method might cure the problem. For a while I thought the problem had gotten better, but it is just the randomness of the problem. Oil selection makes some difference. I change the oil enough that I don't think the blow by is over contaminating the oil. But maybe the reason I think 6000 miles is too long a change duration is because the oil is breaking down quicker and my noticing that after changing expensive oil at 3000 miles the engine runs quieter is because the oil is diluted with contaminant by then, but it does not smell of gasoline, and is not very dark so I don't know why it runs quieter I am not sure what the other thousand cuts might be. The extra oil leaking by may make my cylinder walls last longer....maybe not But being able to go 6000 miles between oil changes could save me hundreds of dollars over the next ten years. Carl Allison's comments on Mike Rich's comments on the soft valve stems are certainly motivation for new valves and K-lining, if that is not too late...But I think I would be seeing blue smoke about that time that there is that much damage. I keep putting off doing a compression test, probably for fear of facing the truth. In any case I should start ordering the parts, as I really want the Mike Rich valves, and maybe the Mike Rich Pistons. Thanks for the comments.