dlaing

I don't know if this helps: For my Convertibars I got some Galfer cables for a Suzuki SV650. I seem to recall they measured 31" and 32" or maybe they were 32" and 33" I just went out and tried to measure them on the bike and got 32/33 inch, but it is more accurate to stretch them out and measure, so I am not sure. I would guess they are about 2 inches longer than stock. But anyway, the point is, I got about an one inch extra out of the new brake lines. I could go a little higher, but the limiting factor is now the Clutch line and the throttle cable. If you don't change the throttle cable, you probably won't need to replace the clutch cable. I want to go with radial brake and clutch master, but then I would need longer brake and clutch lines. I am very happy with the height

The ECU requires re-mapping. The speedometer probably would not work right because of gearing. The tachometer is probably the same input But I really don't know for sure.

Works nicely for rotory engines too! I have to keep my eyes peeled for a Mazda Turbo engine to throw on the V11 chasis Although the non-turbo would be a lot easier to install but probably just another dumb idea

†hat is exactly what the V11LeMans should have been....IMHO SlowFood, with a mix of raw trimmings, organic lines, spicy seasoning, and politically correct sentiments

So I guess the exception to the "generally speaking" would be the MotoMan method that recommends WOT at 2500RPM. The situation in lugging that I would agree is bad for the engine is if the lugging is done to the point of stalling the engine. I can give my Guzzi WOT at 2000RPM on a flat road and it will gently accellerate, but if I find myself rounding a slow hair pin turn that turns into an ascent and my gear selection is now to low forcing me to down shift, I would think that if I did not downshift and ended up stalling the engine, that would be hard on the engine. It would probably be bad for the engine just getting to that point where I recognize that my gear selection was too high. But on flat land, I don't think there is a throttle opening that is too wide open, except maybe below 2000RPM. I am not advocating 2000RPM and WOT for general riding, as there is no sense to it, so, if you have the gears use them. But there is no harm done, either. Durring the break in process, I think that 3/4 of WOT at 1600 RPMs would be a good thing. MotoMan likes full WOT at 2500RPMs for our bike, and I think that would be fine. In addition, I think durring the first thousand miles one should try to regularly give more than 50% throttle through the RPMs and avoid cruising more than anything. I broke mine in the wrong way by mixing cruising with gentle accellerating and not loading the engine for fear of lugging it. I changed the oil to semi-synthetic at 500 miles, but by then my opportunity to break it in properly MAY have passed. If I get new rings and re-hone, do you think I could get a second chance? And remember, "Don't drive like my brother!"

Why is it bad for our fuel injected Guzzis? Why does more RPM make it better? In my opinion the RPM does not make a difference because the timing and mixture have been optimized to not overload the engine at low RPMs. Actually, I suppose the RPM probably does make some difference. At maximum torque (5000-6000RPMs) I would suspect the most damage is being done...or maybe just before redline is the most damaging But I see no reason why the WOT at low RPM would be more damaging. On non-fuel injected Guzzis I know this was a problem as the design left the engine very prone to pinging at low rpms. To break in I would suggest something similar to the MotoMan method or Greg Field's method, but gradually building up the RPMs and throttle openings. MotoMan writes: I would suggest something more like following, on a dyno: Warm the engine up completely !! Then, using 4th gear: Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes Do Three 1/2-3/4 Throttle dyno runs from 30% - 80% of your engine's max rpm increase the throttle from 1/2 to 3/4 as the RPMs pick up. Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes Do Three 3/4 to Full Throttle dyno runs from 20% - 100% of your engine's max rpm increase the throttle from 3/4 to full as the RPMs pick up. Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Clamp on! Clamp off! The Clamper® Greg patented The Clamper and sells them on eBay for only $20 Apparently the greed and corruption finally got to him and he saw the light But seriously, most of us here are grateful for Greg bringing to light the too common problem of filters coming lose. Opinions are all over the place on this matter. Some believe that their tightening jobs are perfectly fine and will never come loose. Some believe they MIGHT come loose, so they resort to options such as: Greg's unpatented, freely shared idea of putting a hose clamp on the filter A spacer between filter and trap door to prevent the filter from coming loose. Choosing a filter with a design that is less likely to unscrew, while paying attention to tightening it well. Some go by the torque it well enough method and some by the number of recommended turns. The important thing is to beware that the filters are more prone to coming off than typical external filters and you won't see the leak the way you might with an external filter. How you deal with it, is up to you.

Probably it is THE WORST thing next to thrashing it immediately after a cold start. I think the no lugging is now a non-issue. You want load on the engine. You want it at various RPMs, starting down low and working your way up. A properly tuned fuel injected Guzzi can handle wide open throttle from 2000 to 8400 RPM in top gear on a flat road. Coming from carbbed bikes I used to loath the idea of putting a Guzzi on the dyno and having them map it for WOT at 2000 RPM, but now I understand. I don't expect everyone to agree to this enlightenment right away. I know I did not get it right away, in fact I got it too late Let the flaming begin

I don't think I can make both Arizona and this Open House, but would love to test a some new Guzzis and maybe one of those three wheelin' scooters.

I will try to make one of the events. Any word on what bikes will be available in Thousand Oaks for test rides? EDIT ...never mind. I see there is another thread for the Demo day at Thousand Oaks Maybe someone can answer there.

Two tight of valves might cause this problem Clearance specs from the owners manual: intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) I think that is too tight. I like mine set to 0.006"(0.15mm) intake and 0.008"(0.20mm) exhaust. RaceCo recommends 0.008"(0.20mm) intake and 0.010"(0.25mm) exhaust. YMMV But FWIW, mine still occassionally misses at idle, and once in a great while stalls, usually after many freeway miles followed by a quick stop at a red light. TPS is certainly a possibility, and you may fine it works best at a little above or below the 500-525mV at idle Use the 0-10V scale. I spliced into the wires so that I could get a permanent reading point from two dangling wires. In my opinion it is better to set TPS by disconnecting linkage and "choke" and setting to factory spec. But there is still a point of ambiguity on the resting point of a totally closed right throttle body, so perfection is subjective The 500--525mV idle method is less accurate because the relationship between throttle openings and idle speeds vary. But if you find you are now at say 475mV, bumping it up to 500mV could be your ticket. Likewise, if you are at 550mV notching it down to 525mV could take you to heaven.

He answers, but you have to be one of the sheople who sign up to get to his VIP pages of enlightenment and possibly eternal spamnation. This link http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm MIGHT get you around having to give up some email address.

I don't know if I can make it, as I have to fix the leaky rear drive... I hope you all can make it

If you can detach the cable from the tranny and turn the cable by hand with relative ease, then the problem is likely elsewhere. A few of us have had a problem where the fitting at the bottom of the cable pushes away if the cable does not insert properly into the tranny. But the consequences of that are simply no speedo activity. The consequences not stripped worm gear splines. My guess is that your cable drive at the tranny was not put in correctly or something in there is missing or in the wrong place...

Interesting Mine sprays to every spot along the circumference of the right side of the wheel, but it is much heavier in one 60º quadrant of the wheel. At first I thought it was from the lube collecting when resting, but after cleaning and going for a ride, it is pretty clear that the leak is coming from one place. Maybe a seam or crack There is some rusting of the metal near the large gasket....I hope rusted or damaged metal is not the problem....but I guess that is better than a crack.

I suspect the window of opportunity is much longer on the Nikasil lined cylinders of the Guzzi. I say it is not too late to give it the MotoMan treatment....but I speak with no authority on the matter, other than owning a bike that blows oil into the airbox, possibly because I followed the Guzzi recommended break in. I did too well to avoid the mere hint of lugging, or reving beyond the recommended. This probably meant I was NOT forcing the gasses up behind the rings to press them into the cylinder walls so, they did not break in properly. Wish I had known better

Same here. Leak may not start till about 100km/h or even faster. Leak greatly increases as speed increases. I suppose I could ride within the speed limit

Pine Marten http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pine_marten So Martin got taken out by a Marten ...sorry But I assume the Marten got the worst of it. I hope you heal quickly, before the riding season ends

I have the same problem Tried replacing shockproof with dinosaur lube, and problem got even worse. Replaced both seals, but problem returned. I read on Greg Bender's site that getting the seal in backwards will not seal correctly, so I may have gotten it in backwards Greg Bender was writing about loop frames, if that makes a difference http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loo..._rear_drive.htm Need to get off my lazy rump and fix before Arizona rally

Sorry about giving false hopes. Me stupid

What sort of frequency vibration? I have had the sensation of warped rotors with a vibration apparently equal to the rpm of the rotor. But it was not accompanied by any particular noise, atleast that I noticed. Solution was to clean the semi-floaters.

What a coincidence! A Pete Roper Moto Moda Shloppage Shleet with necessary gaskets is more than thick enough to allow for the K&N. The amazing sheet that lets you go faster and not lose your oil pressure nor your oil filters!!! We keep finding out more wonderful purposes for this sheet. If only Pete thought of everything, and it came pre-drilled for you to SS safety wire the filter to it...or maybe it does...Look at that!!! Not sure which holes to use, but I am pretty sure any of a few would do the trick.

Yesterday I lubed my cable for the second time in 37K miles...no problems, except for the tiniest bit of fraying at the throttle body's pully. Fraying is not visible to the Presbyopic and far-sighted, but I can feel it snag when rubbing a rag against it. It has no effect on performance yet, but I fear it will unravel....but then again, I have feared that since noticing ~20K miles ago. Maybe your problem is how the cable is routed

I don't know what the stock shock is rated at. My guess would be about 425-450 lbs/in. My rider only sag number decreased a healthy amount when I went to the 475# spring, but not quite enough to reduce bottoming enough. Allegedly the WP shock on the V1100Sporti were 475#, and also allegedly is the Ohlins shock spring that ships with Scura, Cafe, Rosso Corsa, etc. When I went to #550, I let Lindemann Engineering make the decision based on their experience. I was thinking #525 would have been best, but I went with what they thought was best for me, perhaps they are correct???? I still need to get the sag right...Off to the garage with my wife to help me measure, but I wonder how many honey-dos this will cost me EDIT only about 6 hours of honey-dos but obtaining accuracy makes it almost worth it I added to full turns of preload and then measured at the rear fender(which increases the number a little) and got: 21mm(~13/16") bike only sag and 29mm (~1-1/8")rider only sag, so the combined sag is 50mm(~1-15/16"), so maybe it is not too heavy of a spring, although measuring at the fender does increase the number Ohlins recommends: Bike only: Rear: 5-15 mm Front: 25-30 mm Bike and Rider: Rear: 30-40 mm Front: 35-50 mm So, I need about 15mm more preload and maybe even a heavier spring. It could be I was bottoming out and feeling that as being too firm. I know that was the problem with the Sachs. EDIT II Used my trusty plastic caliper and my wife measured from axle to muffler hanger and got: 6mm bike only 26mm rider only 32mm total sag Penske recommends ~22mm - ~30mm total sag, so I am a little above Penske's recommendations and a little bit on the low side of Ohlins' recommendations, just where I want it. So the 550lb/in spring is not too hard. I must have been bottoming out. Now the bike feels much more compliant, and the Penske compliments the Ohlins But ideally, now I may need a little stiffer spring for the Ohlins forks. Forum member wscholar has a red Eibach on his Scura Ohlins...looks nice. His is 600#/INCH! But he is heavier AND sportier than I. I saw a photo of a Penske with red Eibach spring and liked it more than the HyperCo blue...which is a nice high quality finish blue, but boring. If I wanted boring, I would go with black

I need to get out and ride....