dlaing

Why did you choose MyECU over TuneBoy?

Am I so unwanted? I am going to post here until Jaap shuts this down, too. By the way, you all should have bought Tuneboys.

If you get really lucky, you could see a photoshoot at Cycle Garden But I have never been there. Moto Guzzi Classics is probably a better bet for an interesting time. I don't know if Guzzi Classics rents bikes, but they might. May 10th was going to be the Dr. Know Memorial Ride, but it got postponed because Todd is out of town that weekend, otherwise he might have set you up with a bike??? BMW and Harley Rentals are easy to find. The Rock Store is worth a visit! (open weekends only I think????)

The people that said they were chromoly hard were exaggerating AND misleading. In the old thread I suggested Urethane at about 50 (A) would be about right for a replacement, but you suggested 72 or higher. I think you are correct that 50A would be too soft. Guzzi nearly nailed the rubber softness right off the bat at 72A, but MAYBE 65A would be more ideal. These are NOT hard like hockey pucks. In the old thread, DOCC said his were about as hard as automotive tire rubber. In the old thread, I said, "I pressed on the rubber with a screw driver and estimated the durometer at about 60-70A. No I don't have a durometer, but it was harder than my motorcycle tire, and softer than a 75A skateboard wheel. I wedged one in a door and it compressed very nicely. Probably about 50% compression with maybe one pound of force on the 30inch door."

I went there and there was no content, yet. It was nice knowing you all!

It would have to be A. Trust me, I am a four time college drop out. But according to people with expertise on the forum, it is chromoly hard and should be measured not in durometers but in the Rockwell C scale

Tuneboy's TuneEdit and TechnoResearch's Directlink both control fueling and ignition of the OEM ECU. I don't know if Magneti Marelli offer anything to the public. I'd try emailing TuneBoy a second time, I emailed them last weekend and they got back to me in less than 12 hours. support at tuneboy.com.au What do you want to know about it?

RH: Doc, my vision is perfect Doctor: So why are you here, this time? RH: I have niggling nits. Doctor: And that's not a problem? RH: Why must I suffer fools and idiots? Again it is not a problem. Doctor: Then why are you here? RH:To enlighten you to the fact that I cured niggling nits twice. Doctor: Hmmm. Interesting. What are these niggling nits and how did you cure them. RH: My nits niggle when my head gets hot and then cools down quickly leaving my receptor hotter than my head causing distorted vision. Doctor: Hmmm. Interesting. I am glad that is not a problem. So how did you cure these niggling nits? RH: At first I tried putting the receptor into direct contact with the head, but my vision became worse. So, I then added a Sun Glasses to modify the direction of the refractive inertia and Voila! better than perfect vision! But that was not good enough, so I ripped off the Sun Glasses, backed the receptor out and set it to the focal length that makes my dong look big enough to wrap ten times around my drive shaft , and Voila! better than better than perfect vision! Doctor:Hmm Interesting. I am going to increase the dose of your Risperdal® prescription. RH: Don't bother. I gave up on the Risperdal® just before the niggling nits showed up. Doctor: (please note the above is for humor purpose only and I truly respect RH's true improvements to the sensor system)

Apology retracted.

We'd really have to see the maps in the ECU. Is your kit's map similar to an MGS01 map???? Do you even retain the O2 sensor???? If it is like the MGS01 the following may help you. As I posted earlier, the MGS01 gets no variation in fueling from the engine temp sensor, once it reaches a warm enough operating temperature. See image: In your case trial and error is best! Ignore the theories (except for mine )

Lack of repetition was not the problem. I haven't mocked you, only Ratchet... unless you are really the same person, living in separate but parallel universes If I mocked you, point it out and I'll either apologize or come up with some excuse. You have for the most part been a model netizen and not deserved of mockery.

Would you please do us a favor and check the temperature of the "oil temperature sensor" and post it where the sun don't shine (The engine oil temperature sensor thread)? It will be sloppy and unscientific, but good fuel for pontifications!

Ray, Greg Field was one of those that had the plastic holder crack just from riding the bloody thing. Mine broke from very light torque with a six inch wrench. It was replaced with the brass holder, ran well till I increased the conductivity which resulted in lean running, eventually undoing it ran made it run fine. Others run fine with conductive goo in either the brass or plastic holder. YMMV!!! If I were you I would stick with the plastic and never tighten it with a wrench.

It would have been clearer if you had said My point is, a temperature sensor that allows the heated air to directly contact the thermistor, (An open thermistor as used in the GM air temperature sensor that RH has settled on) will be quicker to react to head temperature. Words like flow and vented imply that RH vented the holder. I would describe the sensor as caged, not vented, but whatever... Your vague choice of words is why I ASKED if you meant it was vented to open air. I don't need to be insulted about not understanding your writing. Few of us are English majors here, so we should all cut each other some slack. I am not nit picking about split hairs, I am just asking for clarification and politeness. Likewise I shouldn't be mocking RH for making his bike run better than perfect, unless he had actually said that...

Glad we agree! I think I left the round tuit where it can't be found for a while, but the more direct connection and remap is on my agenda. Not sure why everyone gets so hostile. Bad technical writing? Even worse reading comprehension!!! Ratchet's solution with GM sensor is fine aside from the raised concerns of deteriorating plastic and nit picking over less than perfection. Dan's solution to the niggling nits parallels Ratchet's in a mysterious way. (perhaps he has a patent pending) Greg Field's solution of goo and duct tape surely could work fine with the right map or state of tune. Whatever GuzziMoto and thousands of others are doing is working fine, too.

Sorry dude, I missed the niggling nits. I think I attributed the niggling nits to the preceding words: "If the bike actually ran anything approaching poorly as is (with the exception of a few niggling nits," My bad. I guess I don't read as well as I did in 4th grade....

I don't think it is the case either. I think Dan simply means the GM sensor's thermistor is exposed ("vented") to the air in the small enclosed chamber that Ratchet made.

Care to elaborate on your parallel adventures? Did you make a perfect running engine run better?

So, do you mean the thermistor is "vented" to the one or two ccs of air in enclosed plastic chamber or do you mean the plastic chamber is vented to atmosphere (Open air)? Yes, I have a strong opinion that venting to atmosphere would be the wrong approach. I also have a strong opinion that the talk of air gap having superior qualities other than lowering temperature at the thermistor, is irrelevant BS. Funny, huh?

I like the idea of the insulating mount, and the low mass, but the air gap still comes across as a big negative. The positive effects are lowering the temperature of the sensor so it will last and so that the output matches the ECU map, so that it does not run too lean, or exceed the operating range of the sensor, possibly triggering error codes or faulty reads by the ECU. Perhaps you could elaborate on where these heat transients are coming from? Mexico? According to Dan maximum accuracy or sensitivity of the OEM sensor is at about 80-90C, and according to me it is about 40C, and the accuracy is fine up till over 100C, so you are not going to see it "remain far more sensitive to slight but consistent changes". From RH's chart on the GM sensor, its accuracy or sensitivity should be close to that of the OEM sensor, with the only difference being from a lack of brass creating thermal inertia problems. The problem with the air gap is that air is an insulator. The thermal diffusivity for air is about one fifth that of copper or aluminum. We can't just calculate the air gap here as the conductive, we must also include the air in the chamber, assuming it is not vented,and if it is vented, as Dan suggested, then all bets are off. Having two CCs of air might have diffusivity properties very similar to the mass of brass in the OEM sensor with no air gap!!!! Of course that is not the end of the world, since we all have lived with it for years, but it is not ideal. On the plus side, the low mass of the GM sensor will react more to the radiant thermal energy better than the heavy brass does. What makes it an improvement over the OEM setup or the OEM with Goo setup, has nothing to do with heat transients. It is an improvement over the OEM setup because he has probably cut the thermal diffusivity in half and he has maintained a pretty similar operating temperature for the sensor. The OEM with goo, probably has about the same diffusivity and inertia, but it makes the sensor read too hot (on some bikes), so RH is not likely to see the cold riding fuel improvements of his square wheeled bros in the North. What would work best is a low mass thermistor imbedded in the head, engineered to withstand the heat and have an output close to OEM, adjusted for the hotter condition.

You too fixed a "perfectly running" bike that has "head temp sensor body heat soak hot lean-burn feedback loop symptoms" by replacing the brass sensor with a plastic air sensor with "insulating mount and a temp sensor w/ a probe tip sufficiently isolated from the rest of the sensor body, relying upon radiated heat instead of conducted heat (which) would allow for the decreased influence of heat transients while allowing correct sensing of substantive changes in heat output."????? Dude!!!!!!

RH's sensor is vented?

Anyone got bets on how long Ratchet's plastic will last?

OMG! Then you need RH's solution!

So I have it backwards when I say consensus validated Galileo and Copernicus? What is the forwards? Skepticism validated Galileo and Copernicus! Non, mon frere, YOU have it backwards! Maybe you mean that consensus of The Church disagreed with Galileo and Copernicus???? Sorry but you obviously get your science schooling from 16th Century Bible school teachings Consensus may have disagreed with them during their lifetimes, but not after. After their deaths, consensus did validate their work, although they were wrong about somethings, so I guess you could say that consensus today invalidates aspects of their work, but it does not invalidate the heart of the work, quite the contrary, the heart of their work is Validated by Consensus! PS did you get a chance to test ride now that the weather is finally ideal for testing for heat related problems?