dlaing

...but is you spring red? If it is, than I will go with Summit if I need a lighter spring. Thanks for the tip. When I ordered my 475# spring I went here http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product and also picked up two liters of shockproof, but they charged me twice for shipping The oil shipped from HRP and the spring directly from HyperCo. By the way, I am putting one of Sachs shocks up for sale in Classifieds

The reasons to do it another way are that there is a flaw in the method you have been advocating. Specifically, unless you ride it for some unknown amount of time on bumby roads, you are not going to get all the air out, and thus you are not going to know the proper air gap. I am looking for a better way to do it. As you pointed out, measuring the out going fluid accurately is problematic, and yet you seem critical of me acknowledging your valuable point???? Is my first suggested method better or worse than your method? I don't know. Probably worse. I really don't know how inaccurate my fluid measuring skills are, but I don't think it is troublesome to do when doing a partial for dissassembly. I am sure I initially underestimated the accuraccy required in measuring the fluid. One would at the least need a graduated cylinder To my mind the steps of measuring, if they could be done accurately, would allow one to skip the final step of the extended test ride to get the air out, a part of the process that I believe you did not advocate until it was pointed out that the air gap falls after riding. So since you said that it is impossible to measure the outgoing fluid accurately enough, I have taken the leap of faith and assumed maybe you are correct, and I suggested a third method, closer to the Guzzi recommended method, which would work flawlessly durring complete disassemblies. This method is clearly better than the Guzzi recommended method and in my opinion, better than your method when comparing complete disassemblies. To reiterate: the best approach is the factory recommend full disassembly and 400ml fill combined with a couple hundred miles of rough roads, followed by an air gap reading and measured correction. Once the measured correction is known it could be added or removed from the 400ml at the next full disassembly. But note, a graduated cylinder is still in order. Measuring from the marks on the side of the bottle is not accurate enough If you want to keep doing it with your tedious step 5, be my guest.

Finally made a decision and went with a Penske. Delivery was pretty quick for my customized numbers of 284 length and 68mm stroke. For some reason they made a mistake and shipped it with bushings for 10mm bolts. I contacted Lindemann Engineering and Jim Lindemann put me directly in touch with Penske who sent the correct bushing out FedEx overnight. After getting the correct bushings earlier this week, I took the day off and installed the shock today. Installing the shock is pretty easy: Pull the fuel tank, pull the airbox, jack the bike up, pull the Sachs, install the Penske, replace air box, replace tank. The only tricky part was the remote resevoir. The kit included two rubber cushions and two hose clamps. I tried re-using the Sachs clamp, but the hose angles would not work well with it. Finally I figured out that if I doubled up the hose clamp, I could mount it on the starter. Not the prettiest install, but it works for me. I took it for quick thirty mile ride, and came back pretty happy. The improvement is not as great as it was going from the Marzocchi to the Ohlins forks, but it is certainly better. Half the improvement is from going from my HyperCo 475 lb/in spring to a HyperCo 550 lb/in spring. I still have to do some more accurate sag measurements to know if it is the right rate. I may go with a 525 lb/in spring if this is too firm. Or maybe a HyperPro progressive spring. The initial ride found it a bit firm, but it swallowed the big bumps much better. The bike feels more planted, but now the front feels like I need to firm up the damping and maybe add a firmer pair of springs.

1. that would be easy to compensate for if you knew the target air gap. You could easily set the air gap before draining. 2. Excellent point, my measuring skills may only good enough to be accurate to within maybe 5mm of air gap, using the technique of measure old volume, replace with same new volume, method. I used the method with my Ohins and spilled no fluid on newspapers or garage floor, but a loss of a few CCs going from capture tray to measuring cylinder easily could have translated into an error of several mm of air gap. 3. The problem is that it is literally impossible to determine what air is left in the cartridges. Perhaps the best approach is the factory recommend full disassembly and 400ml fill combined with a hundred miles of rough roads, followed by an air gap reading and measured correction. Once the measured correction is known it could be added or removed from the 400ml at the next full disassembly.

Very interesting. It could be coincidental that you were down on the same side as FuelCooler, but I suspect the rebound side has harder to fill cavities. These observations and Ratchet's last post, give reason to re-evaluate how to fill the forks to the proper level. Certainly the method Ratchet just suggested of re-checking the level after some time of riding would probably work great, but I would suggest the following: 1 measure air gap before changing fluid and top off one to get them level 2 measure fluid extracted from each fork 3 re-fill with amount extracted 4 And just an idea, but it may be a perfectly fine strategy to do this method without completely disassembling the forks, as long as you do it at the factory recommeded 20,000km or atleast every year, and then maybe every fourth year do a complete disassembly and complete drain. Doing a complete disassembly every year seems like a real PITA to me, but I guess after 100,000 miles, you might feel the difference in fork slop. But I have not seen what comes out of the oil from a full disassembly...Is it a gnarly soup of pulverized metal flakes and rusty water?

ps and at this forum it was 4 threads each. It would have been 4 for Kurt and 3 for Anna, if I had not brought her up.

Just for giggles I did a search at wildguzzi forum for anna nicole and it came up with 15 threads. A search there for Vonnegut resulted in 3 threads, on of which was VA Sean To Kurt Vonnegut

Thanks Gents! Nog, I'll have to re-read yours a couple times more to grasp. ...running late to work, right now.

Coool! Kinda surprising about the compression side having less compression, but it seems like you took the right action and got great results Knowing that your forks had firmer springs than many others, I guess I should not be surprised. I wonder if someone before you had resprung and revalved the forks

Thanks I did not know there were two kinds of electrothermomechanicalpointstypeflashers. I guess I need the second kind or an electronic one.

What is the Ewan MacGregor Syndrome? spikey hair?

Jaap had a similar experience after a dyno session. I wonder if the dyno operators are trying to get more power out of the bike by making it run lean and hot at mid throttles, also giving you better fuel efficiency. From what I understand, a hotter engine develops more power, so when you transition from too lean to rich enough, you get more power, atleast on the dyno printout. But the lean conditions at some map positions could be causing the popping, and other positions on the map are rich, so the plugs don't indicate the lean problem. Also the fact that the popping is on the left, it could be the dyno guy sniffed the right side only. Perhaps the dyno operator can dump your old map back into the ECU in five minutes. But I think the idea that it may be an air leak, cracked boots or leaky exhaust gasket, are more likely the problem.

Are these different then the P32Bs as used on the spine frame? http://www.motomeccaspares.com/shop/addto....add&feed=BS look down page for O/Haul Kit P32B http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=3017 look down page for P32B Piston set and seal set.

And yet almost nobody builds them that way. Bob Nolan's trike is a beautiful piece of work: http://www.inet-rendezvous.com/motoguzzi/BobsTrike.htm

Has anyone tried the "Clear Alternatives" LED board? http://clearalternatives.com/Merchant2/mer...tegory_Code=LED I am pretty sure the Buell/Monster one fits our bike. But my big concern would be how bright it is, especially from the side. As Nigel mentioned, LEDs often have a narrow range of visibility. On my way home from work tonight, my brake light went out on me. LEDs tend to last a lot longer, but unless they add enough very bright wide angle LEDs, it won't be bright enough.

Apparently it is Hawaiian meaning, Shockproof Heavy is good stuff.

I agree, I would make the exhaust level and a little longer. Also, I like my music in stereo, so two into twos would be nicer and look less like uh you know what from the rear view. Otherwise an excellent achievement. I love the details. For example on the torsion bar: "PRODOTTO TIPICO ITALIANO "

Good possibility. If the roughly 14mm axle spacer is omitted the wheel would definately lock up when torqued. But if the thin washer is omitted, the wheel should turn freely. But as Ratchet indicated, if there is no washer between the needle bearings and the head of the axle, the washer RossoAndy found is likely the one. I suppose there are other possible causes of the wheel not turning, like the spacer between the wheel bearings is too short and the bearings are now shot, or maybe...heck, I don't know. My money is still on the ~14mm spacer having been omitted, or maybe it fell between the wheel and rear drive, if that is even possible. I know I dropped mine there and I could not get the axle assembly together at all. Maybe the V1100 is a little different.

Please don't be personally insulting. How would you like it if I said the following? I never said a snap action switch can create a gradually rising voltage to the bulb. I said that there is a delay in the signal lighting when using a using a thermomechanical flasher rather than an electronic flasher. I don't know what causes the noticeable delay, I just know that there is a delay. And electronic relays that I have used in the past did not have the noticeable delay. Finally a good point! Maybe that is why my flasher relay has a delay. For what it is worth, atleast one other person on this forum complained about the delay.

Won't the P32B seal kit shown on the link that Mr.Bean posted, work for our Guzzis rear caliper?

There are different options depending on whether you want to diagnose or remap the ECU. Allegedly Axeone can do both. TechnoResearch has software that can do either. TuneBoy has software that can remap but for years they have been developing but not releasing the diagnostic. When TechnoResearch released the mapping tool, Direct Link, it probably took the wind out of TuneBoy's sails. The Axeone is too expensive. The TechnoResearch is much better priced, and they have many options. Tuneboy is the least expensive. And some are content with a piggy back solution for remapping, like a Power Commander.

Someday I'll have to give this guy a call. If you read their documentation, we should be using the standard Redline gear oil " Synthetic Gear Oils Designed to provide the highest degree of protection and greatest efficiency for your drivetrain. Red Line provides a complete line of drivetrain lubricants which are optimized for differential, transmission, or transaxle use over a wide range of temperatures. " You can't do better than the highest and greatest, but then they offer the shockproof range of gear oils, "Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. Offers a "best of both worlds" balance of relatively low drag and the utmost in protection." Is utmost protection greater than the highest degree of protection??? The shockproof light sounds like the right viscosity: "A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil. Used in two-stroke and four-stroke motocross transmissions (often mixed in equal parts with SuperLight ShockProof™ Gear Oil). Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles." While the shockproof heavy sounds too heavy, who needs a 75W250??? but maybe our bike is more like a harley than a motocross bike: "Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90. Recommended for Big-Twin transmissions (Twin Cam, '84-up EVO, Knucklehead, Shovelhead, Panhead). Big-Twin primary chaincase should use our MTL product." After reading that, I have no doubt about the shockproof heavy being fine for tropical climates.

False True False. Once again, you are the one talking out of your arse. Except for the parts about how it works and how clever it is. Sorry, but the light up time on my flasher is so slow I could time it on a grand father clock Exactly my point. I knew you would see the light

Thanks for the warning. Maybe I'll stick to incandescent....there is sooo little time and energy conserved by using LEDs in the turn signals, and I still have not found an LED turn signal that I like better than the stock turn signals. But that tail light offers constantly used watts, with a possible savings of maybe 4 Watts!!!! Weeeehoooo! ...and even more when braking, but that braking, like the turn signals, is only momentary, so it won't have much impact on maintaining a happy battery. And I still have not seen an LED tail light as visible as some of the factory LED lights. If I get ambitious maybe I'll squeeze two Truck LED lamps worth of LEDs into the Guzzi OEM tail light.

Thanks! and thank you Brian. I'll stick to the light touch, zero freeplay.