dlaing

Notice the one inch increments

Look again at the photo. It is not .219. It is less than .200. You can verify with the scale in 64ths. It reads ~12/64" and 12 divided by 64 is 0.1875". It is not the best caliper. The rule scale is in mm increments and inch increments, but the dial is in both hundredths and sixty-fourths of an inch increments. But is good enough to get the job done. I'll take a better photo, as that has parallax on the dial, and I think I am squishing the rubber, as I had mentioned... I guess we got a different batch of SuperTechs.

Oh boy, it is even worse than I thought. With a little more care in measuring, the groove depth measured somewhere between 0.145 and 0.150 instead of the 9/64 that I got earlier (earlier I measured across the inner and outer rail of the groove. The depth at the inner rail is less at about 0.135. The outter rail is the critical measurement, and it is greater than 0.145 Measurements of the gasket were a much more consistant, but the gasket depth or thickness was very different than your .250" measurement: gasket thickness = 12/64" = 0.1875" (looking at the photo, maybe a hair more, but I am probably compressing the rubber a hair as I pose for the camera) gasket width = a little less than 0.150" (not measuring nubs) groove width = a little more than 0.150" Here is another shot, but please don't use it to judge my measuring technique. I was posing for the camera, not trying to hold it level...

Clousseau exits, stage right, into the garage...

I think the most accurate way to determine that will require mounting the filter. Perhaps a project for later. But if my measurement is accurate, then the squeezable distance is about 3/64 or 0.46875" (no way I am that accurate) So, plugging in pitch of 0.0625 inches per turn we get 0.046875/0.0625 = 0.75 turns. I'll bet with a bit of muscle you could get more than 3/4 turn.

I went and measured my Walmart filter: Gasket 12/64" Groove 9/64" Squeeze 75% YMMV (Your Measurement May Vary )

Yep! Thanks for the clarification.

Guess I'll be showing up on four wheels I hope some of you can make it PS Happy St. Patty's

I was having alot of trouble getting all the wires on the battery, so I came up with a solution for the negative side, which was to attach all the wires that going to negative to the frame and then I ran an automotive gauge wire to from the battery negative to the ground point at the frame. For the positive side I still have to struggle. I am considering moving a couple of the lines down to the starter terminal. But a fuse block would be nice if I knew of a good place to fit it. I already have a nice fuse block, similar to the image that Gary posted, but it is a bit big, kind of heavy, and not really weather proof.

Ecochondriacs! Could we please make this a poll to express the degree to which we are so sick of them!?!

So, are 12 and 17.5 different because 12 is the verticle measurement of the oil and 17.5 is the measurement along the dipstick that goes in at an angle? Thanks again for the research.

Hey, you may start a new trend. I always thought busy helmet graphics and multi colored leathers were for fantasy racer wannabes, but now they make up a majority of the sport bike market

I also appreciate your research, but so far I don't know what to make of the numbers. Shouldn't more turning increase how much the gasket is compressed or squeezed? It might also be good to know if the failed UFIs were torqued till the tin hit the chin. I suspect most of us need a wrench to get the metal to metal contact. Any idea what the torque is at the various degrees of turning? It has been a while since I read your other research on the matter, but I recall I came away thinking there was not a big difference between filters. I guess I'll have to go find the old posts and review. Thanks for providing us with real physical data

IMHO Set cornering speed so if you blow the entrance you will recover. Great tip, I have to work on that. I keep trying to finesse the bike and I keep reaching a point where I feel I can't turn any further, even when I am inches from scraping. I see too many people do that, and once in a while catch myself too close to the double yellow. What safety margin? Tucking saves fuel and can be more comfortable. A little tuck when passing a truck can be safer, in my less than humble opinion. I don't exactly hang off, but a shift of the butt in the sadle accompanied by a good lean, helps keep the ground clearance, and reduces the required muscle to make the turn.

Thanks for the input. To get the 286/70 measurements, I had to pass on the height adjuster. So I'll be limited to using preload to set the ride height. Which should work fine as long as the spring is not too long or short. Getting the ride hide right is a challenge. When going down hill, I wish it were lower. When going up hill, I wish it were higher. I have played alot with the front, and the front likes to be low, but that is because it both quickens the steering and balances the bike better, so it is more nimble, yet more stable. Changing the rear has more trade offs. Too low in the rear and the steering gets too slow, and I lose travel. Too high in the rear and it gets nervous, especially going down hill. Also, I already slide too far forward with my Corbin, and going high in the rear increases that problem. I may end up stretching the rear sub-frame to lower the rear. Last time I saw Ratchet, I mentioned that idea to him...back when was polite and held off on the Remulac comments . I already stretched it about one or two millimeters, with no noticeable difference. To go further back and down, I'll have to have material added...so much for that power to weight ratio.

Sachs quality control

The ar instead of the er is for Pirate, ahhrrrrr! Or maybe it is for the drawl. The K is for Kommie. Or maybe the ignorantz. Canadienne is my misspelling of Canadiene, as in the greatest hockey team that ever was, The Habs!

What is swept volume? Is there a way to increase it? Does a shloppage shleet increase the swept volume or simply allow you run at a higher max level by blocking the oil from getting aerated by the crank?

My stock plastic dipstick is hard to read so I drilled some holes in it. Simply wipe excess oil, blow oil out of the holes, wipe excess oil again, insert, extract, read. I did not drill enough holes for a super accurate reading, but good enough.

Bravo!

???? Just an idea

I am half Canadienne and half Amarikan, so I'll try to mediate: I don't think anyone said you said not to use UFIs BadMotherGoozer was just pointing his problem with what Ratchet said, right? I think what Ratchet said was technically consistent, but gave the impression of inconsistency. Maybe I should stay out of this Is Winter over yet? Excellent post! There has got to be a better alternative to the hose clamp. Perhaps a clamp with a lock nut????

I am with Gary and against Ratchet on the hand tightening issue. I hand tighten mine and then snug it a little more with a wrench (not a torque meter) I am not sure you are saying the UFI are bad, but, I don't think the filter brand makes much difference. Although I stay away from the Fram. Maybe if the filter sat in a guzzi stock room for ten years the seal and paper element might not be as good. Not that I trust Walmart any better on that, but I use the Walmart filters because they are cheap and the quality is good enough. Maybe if there was evidence other than speculation, I might think the UFI worse than the Walmart filter, but I can only assume they work roughly the same.

Where do you attach the safety wire?