dlaing

Good thinking It is worth the extra work to make sure it is done right! By the way, you do know about Redline ShockProof, right? And while you have it all apart be sure to check the shift spring for binding.

OK, I get it now. I guess you did not understand that I was talking measuring SOC while in an open circuit state. Thanks for the clarification.

The problem I had with the Dyna S was that the only way I knew how to fix it was to replace it, and carrying a spare is expensive. The OEM points seemed prone to pitting, and would not hold the timing for long at all. Maybe other small block owners had better luck Big block Guzzi owners seem less happy with Dyna The Volvo points seemed to hold the timing, pitted less, and were a lot cheaper. I considered going back to the Volvo points but after the second Dyna replacement the Dyna then provided years of fine service until I gave up on the bike I am sure the umpteen point failures and 2 Dyna failures had something to do with my maintainance ability and possibly a voltage regulator problem. The Points on the Honda 500F were not too bad, but required somewhat frequent maintainance...again, probably a result of my lack of skill. The Dyna on my Honda 500F was flawless and required no skill from me.

On my V65 (RIP) I would simply switch the coils to make sure they were not the culprit. Both times the failure of spark at one plug was the Dyna S ignition. Still I prefered the Dyna S to points, although I got pretty good results with some points for a volvo/bmw cross reference that required drilling the points plate to let them fit. Maybe if I was better at diagnosing condensor problems I could have stayed with points. With a score of 36-13, I think BFG has all the points he needs

They were both frozen in time, but at different times. Now they are in synch atleast twice a day, but they only synch with reality once a day At least I found the time to clean up my desktop

My tranny leaked, and I fixed it while leaving the tranny in the frame. You may not be so lucky, but it may be worth a shot. When you pull the airbox, you may get a better view. I pulled the airbox, the shock, the starter, and the rear swing arm. This gave me access to pull the rear cover on the gear box. Once the cover was pulled, I tightened up the bolts on the inside that had loosened, re-guzzibonded (actually I think it was Permatex High Tack®)the rear cover, and put it all back together....Oh and I also pulled the gearbox side cover, but I don't recall if that was necessary. No gaskets were used and no seals were beaten....just gasket sealant, and only on the rear cover. I contemplated going one level deeper to seal the surface that had leaked, but I was unsure how to get the case open, and the loose bolts were a dead giveaway to the cause of the leak. Good Luck!

Only truly great things deserve to serve as my desktop image Time to clean up the desktop... Click here for Jens' watch order thread

Hey there, happy camper, the use of the pods nicely exposes your Wilber ...I mean your Wilbers shock. How do you like the shock?

Yep, and I think tire makers are headed more towards putting the tread in the right direction. I think the Metzeler Laser set the trend, and it has taken many years to catch on. On the negative side of the trend, I think tires are trying to hard to be like racing slicks, and not putting enough tread grooves, but I guess the silicate compounds have made that more exceptable.

Nothing sexier than the voice of a women with laryingitis and I love the benefit that you can hear yourself think

I thought it had more to do with carcass design. I am not sure about traction, but the tread direction does effect the scalloping of the tire and it should point as Ratchet and Dan indicate, although there are many exceptions, mostly where the tread points in multiple directions. You want the threads in the ply to provide tensile strength while braking for the front and while accellerating for the rear. Rear tires by design, would need greater strength in multiple directions, front tires can be more unidirectional, but still need some multi-directional strength. But yah I remember alot of people would run the rear Pirelli Phantoms front and rear and the arrow simply went counter spin in the front. I think some would even put a pair of front tires on with the arrow counter spin in the rear, but that kind of scared me, because I suspected having a front tire on the rear was a bad idea, but who knows, on a 40HP machine it probably did not matter much.

I found the sound tolerable at partial throttle, but if hit the right RPM with a good handful of throttle it felt like it was sucking the ear drums out of my skull (slight exaggeration). When noise becomes excruciating, it is well past the threshold of doing damage. If you don't mind losing your hearing, fine, the tappets sound better if you are hearing impaired anyway....maybe that is why Guzzis appeal to geezers who grew up listening to loud rock and roll And speaking of music, since I put the lid back on the Mistrals sound better...I know the audiophiles on the forum can relate, unless they are into that microtonal cacophonic garbage With lid back on octane requirements went down, bike ran smoother, but fuel consumption went up, and I am sure I lost some power, atleast at high RPMs. I now have to work on leaning it to a more appropriate level....

Moto Gucci

So, were the conflicting posts the violent part of the agreement? I assume you agree with him that when determining SOC, Voltage rises with and drops with temperature and that when you were answering me before, you were thinking charging voltage and not the voltage that we would look at to determine state of charge.

I think I now know who the dude is behind Mattress' avatar

Speaking of Odyssey batteries, A side note for any computer coders out there, The story of Codysseus – Κοδυσσευς: http://www.samag.com/documents/s=10112/sam0702c/0702c.htm (way over my head on every level, but I am told it is hilarious )

Thanks Gary! But that appears to be very different than the results I got from Ryland's numbers. Ryland's voltage goes down with temperature and the site you provided goes up. I think I have to re-do the chart Thank You! Perhaps tonight, I WILL REDO THE CHART WITH THE NUMBERS FROM THAT SITE (forcing them to correspond to higher AGM hawker numbers )

THANK YOU! Here is the resulting chart. Note the original chart and the red line are from a Hawker Odyssey manual NOTE PLEASE DISREGARD THIS CHART AS IT IS WRONG NOTE PLEASE DISREGARD THIS CHART AS IT IS WRONG

And a heartfelt warm thank you to all the posters. The people make the forum great! We moderators only help provide the opportunity. And another thank you to all the goldmembers who also help keep it going. ...And the SPONSORS!!!

Excellent information, but the statement above seems dubious at best. Maybe I am completely at a loss to understand what current is. It seems to me if you apply a thousand amps your battery won't last very long. But heck, maybe they are right. Or maybe they mean no current limit if you obey the battery charging voltage limit??? Also, I don't understand what "battery charging voltage" is. Is it the maximum, the optimal, or the minimal voltage that should be applied durring a charging? Or does it imply something else? Also, I have searched the web high and low for information on how temperature effects using voltage as an indicator of state of charge (SOC) I know the info must be on the web somewhere. I suppose the voltage used for SOC would vary relative to temperature at about the same as battery charging voltage.

If we change it to a puffin, I might be interested But seriously I think it looks great! I hope Guzzi realizes that enthusiasm about their product is more important than the loss of potential sales of Genuine Guzzi merchandise. Here is another idea, but I like the Guzzi one better...this just might market to other gear heads. But needs some fine tuning....

According to someone here, http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1265210 the Alpinas saved an Aprillia 7 pounds, presumably a good deal of that from the lack of tubes over the stock "light alloy" wheels on the SVX. I'll bet the front saves at least 3 pounds and the rear at least 4 pounds over the Brembo cast tin foil. But damn that price is higher than I had hoped.

"No fun", tell me about it Maybe if I put a muzzle on him and wrestled on dry land, then it might be a fair fight. And dammit you are old, at least by College Co-Ed standards (although I figured you for about 40, not 35, must be that wisdom you wreak of)

Is that how long they have been undersprung? Just kidding. Undersprung is an easy fix, and most bikes need the same attention. Even Pete and Ratchet know that. It is just pretty shocking to see them get it that wrong. I have seen some GoldWing riders actually move those things pretty quickly through the twisties. My guess is they were not on stock springs. Has there been even one report of a clutch from a Scura sold in the North America blowing up?

Listen here clown! I am much more grounded, here on Earth, than either of you. Ryan can't build a logical argument to save an innocent nun with a Sunday school alibi from the electric chair. Why don't you try standing up to Ratchet with reason, you nimwitted trolling krusty old drunken clown!!! It ain't that difficult until to argue against his BS, until he starts rambling about Remulac so much that you actually believe the crap. A weak mind is what you have if you buy his wholesale garbage at full retail prices.