dlaing

Alpina also offers some phat aluminum spokes for some of their wheels. I don't see why they would not for the Guzzi wheels

I had a pair of transitions. They darkened much more in direct sunlight. They darken much more in cold weather. When skiing they get extremely dark. In the shade of a car with UV blocking glass they don't work very well. With motorcycle helmets they work a little better. Some face shields block more UV than others. Keep in mind that if they are not darkening they may actually be protecting your eyes better because your pupil will contract. I'd like to know more about that as I usually ride with plain lenses that offer some UV protection, but wonder if transitions protect better. And if anyone knows a good solutution for floaters, let me know.

So, the capacity rises with temperature, atleast going from freezing point to room temperature, but the potential drops. So a battery going from 32F to 72F might have voltage reading of 13V at 32F and the engine may not start because of a lack of capacity, but when the temperature goes to 72F the voltage might read 12.6V, but the capacity has gone up so, the engine should start. I think I now sort of understand

The Bosch should have been fine for all but the starter relay on early V11s. You probably just got a bad one...or you have other electrical problems I don't know if it is true or not, but I heard that a clogged fuel filter can make the fuel pump work harder and draw more amps....so that is one possible possibility. Another possibility is your voltage regulator is on the way out causing the relay to blow. If you want anymore unpleasant scenarios, just ask Hmmm, but then again if those scenarios were true, you would probably be blowing fuses before relays, so you will probably be fine with a new relay

Gary seems to suggest Voltage rises with battery temperature "A reading of 12.5 at 50F may be 12.7 at 70F." and Ryland seems to suggest the opposite. "1/10 volt lower for each 10 degrees F higher than 68 degrees" I would think that Gary is correct, in this case. But I was going by my interpretation of Ryland's math when I was perplexed by DOCC's results. Gary's numbers make more sense, presuming the longer charge session after a complete discharge will result in a warmer battery.

From another thread... Any more details???? Price? Delivery time? Colors? Cush Drive?

The Gixxer is probably sabotaging the two of them.... The other San Diego Guzzi dealer is Sonny Angel Motorcycles in National City. http://www.sonnyangelmotorcycles.com/ Here is the link to GEI relays from Pyro Dan http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm

But of course, thanks You are better than a dictionary! I suppose I could have googled the stoddard solvent at Wikipaedia....I tried many dictionaries, unsuccessfully.

What is Stoddard solvent? I remember the word from twenty something years ago in my Honda manual for cleaning a foam air filter. Also, Is it OK to mix marine or boat trailer grease with general purpose grease?

Ouch, sorry about your bike. Glad you appear to be OK

If you replaced the five pin relay with a four pin relay, that might explain why it fixed fuse blowing. However if you replaced it with a five pin, and got no fuse blowing, you may have found your problem...or not

Yep, you kinda need three hands to do it. Two to start and one to hold the plug (not a light bulb joke) I have heard that cranking when plug is not grounded is a bad idea. Whatever is killing the spark is probably killing the fuel injectors and or the fuel pump. The fact that you don't hear the fuel pump confirms the problem. Relays are the most likely culprit. I have never heard of a GEI relay fail, but if that is what you have, it could be a first. Yah, but I don't know how to test it. No problem though. No fuel pump sound is the key clue, and the sensor is not likely the probllem. Most likely. But stranger things have happened. You are in San Diego! We have two excellent Guzzi shops If you had a bad experience, you might give them a second chance. Or continue on track with your do it yourself repair. I think you are close to a solution. NigelStephens advice is good. The relays in question are the two rear most. The rear most (injection relay) being the most likely. If you get desperate, I'll work for microbrew beer. Ratchethack will work for fine Scotch and Cigars.

Interesting stuff about temperature....now I have to redo the chart with temperature compensation I could not find any thing about temperature compensation for the Odyssey Ultimizer, but the Odyssey Optimizer said operating temperature: -20 to 50 ºC (-4 to 122 ºF) I don't understand why Docc got a better final voltage when charging from discharged to 14.8 than he did from partially discharged to 15V. Strange.

Wow! 0.7 Kg/mm fork springs!!!! Bike only sag at 60%!!!!!!!!!!!!! If anyone has trouble with the link above, go to http://www.traxxion.com/cruisers/gold_wing_home.htm and then click on the link to GL1800 Suspension 101

I had heard of them but never new what was what, until I looked this up:

Yah that delay bugs me too!!! It should be more of a safety concern than running lights.Let us know if you find a faster acting flasher.

Assuming you are not getting spark at either plug, I would look for a common problem, like the ECU or a wire feeding power to both coils. I don't think the coils are grounded except through the ECU, and the spark plug gap. If you hear the fuel pump than the line to the coils should be getting power, but check at the coils. Are the injectors flooding the engine? This would be a clue as they share the same power line and also depend on the ECU and the engine position sensor. Check out http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sch...9_V11_sport.gif

Yah, but 12.79 is fine, too. Better than i expected, so you probably did the right thing draining it down and recharging.I would not have taken it up to 16V, but at 50F and only five minutes above 15V while on a 1A charger, I find it hard to imagine it did any harm and now you may be at 99%!!!! I am too paranoid to even run it above 15V, but that is with a 2A charger, so I bought the special charger. If you have 7 batteries similar in size to Spark500 or Hawker PC545 I would recommend investing in the 6A Odyssey Ultimizer. OMAX-6A-1B 6A, single bank with quick disconnect 310, 535, 545, 625, 680 But if you have bigger batteries, you might want the more powerful and expensive chargers: OMAX-12A-1B 12A, single bank 310, 535, 545, 625, 680, 925 OMAX-25A-1B 25A, single bank 310, 535, 545, 625, 680, 925, 1200, 1500/34, 1500/34M, 1500/34-78, 1700/65 OMAX-40AS-3B 40A, triple bank sequential charger 310, 535, 545, 625, 680, 925, 1200, 1500/34, 1500/34M, 1500/34-78, 1700/65, 2150/31 OMAX-50A-1B 50A, single bank 310, 535, 545, 625, 680, 925, 1200, 1500/34, 1500/34M, 1500/34-78, 1700/65, 2150/31, 2250 OMAX-50AS-3B 50A, triple bank sequential charger 310, 535, 545, 625, 680, 925, 1200, 1500/34, 1500/34M, 1500/34-78, 1700/65, 2150/31, 2250 But it is your money and you seem to be getting by with your 1A charger. One way to get by with a charger that goes up to 16V, to allow a fuller charge without exceeding 15.5V, is to use jumper cables to wire a couple of batteries together, positive to positive/negative to negative, but be sure they don't differ in voltage by more than maybe 0.2V. So bring each of them up to 15.0V before hooking them up together. Heck, you may be able to wire all seven of your batteries together!!!! But if you do that, I would not take the charge up for too long.

Bad electric fuel petcock???? Look for damaged wiring going to petcock.

Hmmm....I suspect you should have just left it after reaching 15V. According to the charts, at one amp charging rate you needed over 3 hours to charge it completely. I suspect tomorrow morning the battery will read a little above 12.6. This is fine for now, but you could probably run it up to 15V or even a little higher. Gary Cheeks advice should be appropriate for your situation:

More like Hatchules Unratcheted!!! But I have to admit I kinda agree with your assesment, and I suspect that SDKFZ's mechanic has not diagnosed it correctly. But the I hope the mechanic got it right and SDKFZ keeps the bike and proves us mistaken!!! We shall see...

Thanks for the link! It is good to know that he had problems doing it without diodes.

For a fairly healthy battery, it is a good target charge. For Sulfated batteries you need a higher voltage. Conventional wet cell batteries are more prone to sulfation and thus more likely may need a higher voltage to overcome the sulfation. The higher the voltage, and the more time spent at a high voltage, the greater the risk of damage to the battery. Calculating charging time is something that I have trouble with. I believe in being cautious with the calculation. Most chargers will give you a chart with charge times based on battery size. You need to know your battery size and your starting voltage and the amp rating of your charger. A conventional battery shows a different voltage at the same point of discharge. I added the blue line to this chart, but I am not sure they measure the voltage the same way, but I imagine it is accurate enough. But an example might be that if you have a Spark 500 and the voltage after sitting over night reads 12.2V, then you are about 50% discharged and you can look at the charts and determine that a 10A charger will take about 0.75 hour, a 5A about 1.5hours, a 1A about 7 or 8 hours, but actual charging time is effected by how that charger works, temperature, and maybe some other factors. Approaching 14.8-15V is an indication that you are nearing fully charged OR you need to switch to a lower charging amperage. Hawker does not recommend chargers that exceed 15V. Gary Cheek has proven that to be hype because he has had great success exceeding that voltage. My guess is that Hawker recommends not exceeding 15V because some batteries will fail if the 15+voltage is maintained for too long or the temperature is too high. But that does not mean you can't exceed 15V nor that you won't benefit from that higher than recommended voltage. Hawker and Deltran had a bit of an online feud along time ago. My guess is that Hawker blamed failed batteries on Deltran and Deltran blamed it on Hawker. Deltran said they no longer recommended the Hawker Odyssey because of its demand of atleast something like 14.4V and Hawker said they longer recommend Deltran because they don't give atleast something like 14.4V. So, trickle chargers may only be good for maintaining batteries that are not too discharged. Some batteries may need more that the 14.4V. So, are Conventional batteries less picky than AGM about charging demands? I think so, but using a charger that does not meet Hawkers recomendations can be fine for AGM. I just think more intelligence and knowledge is required for using battery chargers that exceed 15V, regardless of AGM or not.

One thing I would like to do is activate my signal lights so that they stay on as marker lights, but blink off as turn signals. It should be pretty easy to do with relays, but it would add more clutter to the growing nest of wires.