raz

Well yes but check your CO setting in the ECU first. If that is the problem you will save a couple of hundred euros. If you like you can buy the tool yourself, but it is pricey and you may want to use the money for a PCIII in the end. I assume all Guzzi and Ducati dealers have one. Even if you end up buying a PCIII, you want that setting right in order to use freely available maps. http://www.mectec.nu/tools/vdsts.htm

Your reasoning sounds valid to me but I'm not sure it will make enough difference. The bleeders are really tiny compared to even a small amount of butterfly opening. Trying it is cheap of course, so why not? I guess the Right ThingTM would be to check/reset the mixture setting (CO trim or whatever it's called) in the ECU. It's a pity you can't do that yourself without buying a semi expensive tool.

I replaced my regulator last year. The old one gave a net charge from 3-4000 rpm with lights off. I opted to replace it with an OEM. http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1987

What does it look like in the regulator end, no clues? Is there any brand or part no. on it?

From what I've gathered this is just the downside of having less stiction so it's not a problem with the forks per se. You can replace the seals with ones that last longer, but they will have more stiction. There is no such thing as a free lunch... Conversely, I reckon you could find seals to other forks that decreases stiction - and service life.

The five speed gearbox is older, but it's also newer as it uses five dog engagement. So those posts go to... Special place for banter and other silly remarks?

Definitely, but I haven't tried it. I use a "Carbtune II" and it must hang vertically so I can't use it while riding. The difference it would make is probably totally academic anyway, but that doesn't normally stop me Good point

Personally I think I would use "older" but I wouldn't get upset about it anyway.

The rationale is this: If you only use the LH idle screw, the slop is not an issue because it will always be spring loaded. Doing it your way makes this slop affect things off idle. No big deal though, if you get a good result, you're fine! Basically, I set both bleeders half a turn open balance at revs using white knob balance at idle using bleeders repeat and check When I adjust bleeders, I choose the one that will affect idle speed better: Eg. if left side needs more air for the balance and idle is a tad high, I will close the RH instead of opening the LH.

Ducati Energia Part # 343637 (Ducati Energia is not the same company as Ducati motorcycles, but they share history from back in the 50's).

It has a long history Nope

I mostly use blue loctite but my intention is as much anti-seize as thread lock. It doesn't "lock" them enough to ever be a trouble.

Ideally no, but this will vary with temperature. Some earlier post indicated a new spacer is about 0.5 mm longer than the space between the seats. I have no idea if that is overkill but I assume it doesn't hurt. If the spacer is long enough, there is no side load!

Some people would say that the exact supposed size of YOUR spacer is only known by measuring YOUR wheel and adding a couple of tenths of millimeters. While that is a bit over-exaggerated it will give you the answer with certainity, no matter what.

Did you see the other thread? You need the reference from relay 2.

It will change the idle TPS figure, but it will not change the running from now. The idle screw has the same effect as the fast idle. So if you're happy with it, just ignore the TPS value and set the idle speed with the screw. Otherwise you could raise the idle speed by opening the air bleeders a tad, but that will potentially screw your TB sync.

Do you have a front subframe, hosting the regulator as well as the instruments? Maybe you should check its grounding. That could explain the lot.

Nice work! And nice brother. Why is none of my brothers like that?

No relay is needed for charging but the 30A fuse is. The regulator does break, though I wouldn't call it failure-prone. I had to replace mine after 11-12 years of service. You can do a load-test of the battery yourself: 1. measure voltage at battery poles w/ engine not running 2. measure voltage at battery poles while cranking 3. measure voltage at battery poles w/ engine running If #2 is lower than 10 volts you have a weak battery. Much lower than that and things will just click and buzz. If this happens even though the #1 voltage is good, battery is due for replacement. With a good battery and good charging, you will get like: 1. 12.8V 2. 11-12V 3. >13V at idle, >14V off idle, always below 15V

For the record the 70 mm one just fit the Sporti too, with little margin (be sure to wind the fork side ball joint all the way in). I dremeled out the ball from one of the old ball joints to use as the spacer that was needed in the pinch clamp. Looks and feels fine but I'm yet to try it (still waiting for the camshaft... DOH!). There are tiny grease zerks on the LSL ball joints. And they feel a little "dry". I'm not sure how to grease them, is that a standard zerk? Did any of you guys bother doing that?

Hawker Odyssey PC545 is superb IMO but it's also expensive. Don't replace the battery until you know there's reason to. You may have to put the money on a regulator. Fully charged, a healthy battery should hold 12.8 volts after "resting" from the charger (it will be higher at first).

Sounds like bad charging. Maybe the regulator, or maybe something after it. 30A charging fuse? Measure voltage at battery with engine running. On idle it should be at least some 13 volts. Off idle it should soon go past 14 volts.

I assume you measure from the "L" side of F6 to TB-b. 1.2 ohms sounds OK but with switch off you should have several megaohms or rather no connectivety at all. Try removing F6 and F7 as well.

Did you take the measure on the harness connector from the ignition switch or could you have a bad connection somewhere outside the switch? Oh, and you didn't have everything connected, including battery, did you? At least remove fuse 4, otherwise the bike battery will confuse the reading.

Got it. And I won't hold you responsible anyway But I think I dare trying it out. New steering damper and all, and still 5 mm less than yours. I'll be careful.