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Whoa, and this is a "short frame", right Bob? Pretty interesting considering the former discussions on this forum. I raised my fork legs 10 mm on my pre-historic frame with a 70 profile rear and that made a huge difference to the better. That raise is what the (60 profile rear) Daytona RS came with. Since then I mounted a 60 profile rear but I'm pretty disappointed with the results (probably because it pretty much exactly negated the fork raise). Maybe I should just raise it another 10 mm.

I think the wikipedia article describes it good. Apparently there are two things called choked flow, one good (the one Roy talks about) and one bad (causing cavitation and/or flushing, damaging stuff). Roy, I'm curious about the other parameter: How much will the flow increase if you lower the fuel temperature to 75 and 50 degrees F respectively (keeping the pressure at 3 bar and the other figures as they were)? Could you try that with the program please? I wonder if this can explain some theories my dyno guy had regarding fuel temperature.

:thumbsup:

This wonderful picture came to mind (not that it helps you). It always makes me smile. The Zagato is my reference cafe racer, I doubt anyone will ever end up with a cooler bike. I would love a pic when he drives it with this bag though

Not a waste of my time anyway: Excellent Roy, this explains the one thing that still puzzled me! I had never heard of choked flow before. You are a fresh breeze to this forum!

Air filter is clean? Nothing else restricting air flow? You probably have thought of that already. Do you have internal or external fuel pump and regulator? While I've never heard of anyone having an incorrect fuel pressure, it could be something wrong with yours. It's easy enough to measure it, should be 3 bar. If the regulator would just block for whatever reason, you would get about 5 bar due to the internal relief valve in the pump. If I understand the formulas right, 5 bar instead of 3 bar would give you a 29% rich mixture (square root of 5/3). The bike would still run, but very rich. I don't really believe this is it, but maybe you want to check it out. Edit: I would follow Docc's suggestion before thinking of fuel pressure.

Sorry Roy, we've been over this before and I believe it's no use. I was as enthusiastic as you until I was convinced (from empirical tests made by Dan M, can't find the original thread now but a resume is at http://www.v11lemans...dpost&p=159156) that connecting that hose it will only work as a switch. It will not change the pressure linearly with the intake manifold. I also believe it will break prematurely.

I mostly prefer PDF manuals over paper ones. My laptop has to suffer a little from greasy fingers though The thing I like most about PDF manuals is that I'm able to search them. Sometimes that makes a world of difference. Torque numbers is a good example by the way. There is one page in my WHB with torque numbers for many things, as well as those standard numbers. But then there are a lot of others scattered in the diagrams like the one I posted. Searching for 'kgm' I quickly found them all and added them to my own chart.

Workshop HandBook

Yes but that "standard torque value" is for 8.8 grade bolts. It's true the V11 have a different shaft and even a different number of splines. On the other hand, both have 12.9 grade M8 bolts. I admit not knowing for certain but personally I would use the 39 Nm. I torque them in two-three steps so they get equal. Edit: I have a "standard torque value" chart from GM that I found somewhere on the Net. For 12.9 lubed, it says 40 Nm.

I replaced with an OEM last year but it was a tough decision. Can't remember price difference now but that was not the main issue anyway, the OEM has a pretty bad rep too. Hopefully you just had bad luck, good thing you got the redesigned one on warranty!

39 Nm in my WHB. Should be the same for a V11.

If you remount that Power Commander and load it with a "zero map", you can then enrichen just the two lowest rows by 5-10% or so. This should cure the jerkiness without affecting mileage.

For the record I totally failed to find it. Emry did, and I just cut out a diagram from the PDF he posted. Yes. And lack of camshaft means much more and much less and some :( Last news from the camshaft guy is I will have in two weeks. One month of potential driving season will be lost then. I feel like eight years old waiting for my birthday.

Sorry guys, you just own the tame (timid) version of the real 1100 Sport. Having said that, it's a nice bike, with lots of gears and all (why would anyone need more than four gears on a Guzzi? My fifth is an overdrive) Edit: I just realised I've got one too. The real, real version is the carbed one. My bike is timid too Just imagine, 40 mm carbs, choking the cylinders with a throttle pump nearly evil enough to hydro lock them. One day I will merge an 1100 Sport carb with a Convert gearbox and a tonti frame. I'll let you know.

I think so, but I trust you are right if we talk about the starter itself. We were talking about just the solenoid. Electrically it should just be a coil, on or off. Edit: Your last PDF seems to describe what we was wondering about: Mystery solved I guess. Thanks! This was pretty interesting reading. Especially the last page. Our OEM starter relay (Siemens V23073) is rated 20 A I think. Spec'ed inrush current capacity for the NO contact seems to be 90 A. According to John's (member here but not very active nowadays) relay study: "The GEI is rated at 25 amps for the NO contact and 20 amps for the NC, whereas the Omron is rated at 20 and 10 respectively. In my opinion, there is no basis for the higher contact ratings claimed by GEI. If anything, they should be lower than Omron's ratings when based on the same objective criteria. In further support of this, the inrush current capacity of the NO contact specified by GEI is 25 amps, as compared to 60 specified by Omron." This tells me I should replace my GEI starter relay with an Omron. Or even put back the Siemens. I don't think they were bad anyway, it was the crappy sockets.

Actually this also tells us that several internal parts of the ECU are healthy, which is pretty important. I'm fairly sure a normal priming means the computer is running as it should (as opposed to just the driver circuitry and stuff). Obviously it also tells us that the relay driver stage is healthy. Most or all busted ECU's I've heard of has not produced this priming. Either no priming at all or the fuel pump never stops. Normal priming is not conclusive, but the ECU is probably fine. Abnormal priming is conclusive. If all other tests come out fine, the ECU is very likely bricked. This is too long to put in the note, I know.

Done now. I could leave the lock mechanism in place and just remove the Phillips screws to get the contact block off. It had only 30 cm of cable to a harness connector so I could take it to the bench. The rest was straight forward (with some help from my wife with tab pushing). It looked like it was needed but I didn't bother measuring.

Make double sure there is sufficient free play at the master cylinder. Without that play it will behave like yours.

Yeah! Red or yellow, both are stunning. Try black valve covers on them too.

Thanks for the inspiration! I've been thinking of "overhauling" both my handlebar switch clusters for a long time, thanks to you I did it today. My bike has been out there for some 14 years so there was some grit in them. But most of them looked really good except the turn indicator switch. That one was electrically OK but mechanically clogged by dust and larger debris that I can't even imagine how it made its way inside. I did not measure them before, just cleaned them out good, greased with battery pole grease and put together again. I'll do the ignition switch too but it has blank bolts so I'm not sure how hard it will be. Or can I take the contact block off without removing those bolts? A friend of mine had a bike just like mine and it put itself on fire while parked in a garage. Fairing, headlight, gauges, everything front of the steering head was shot. I suspect it was the ignition switch. It was a write off but fortunately someone bought it from the insurance company and is restoring it.

This good general Valeo writeup links to this good electrical description. But I can't see anything about dual coil or contacts. Maybe when the starter kicks in, there's just "less power left" to the solenoid? I've never really mastered inductance anyway... I also measured 0.3 ohms fwiw.

I've always thought there was too much off-topic crap on that forum, to the point of me not bothering to login there more than maybe once every couple of months. But the problem IMHO is not the NGC itself but that they refuse to open a separate section for it, like this one here. After years on this forum, this is part of my social network and sometimes it would be very frustrating not to be able to post NGC at all. Then there's the issue of piss contests and flame wars. I do miss Ratchethack (the Dr Jekyll side of him) but I think Jaap did the right thing. And not a second too early. Mr Hyde just wouldn't stop begging for it. Obviously it's not a decision a moderator enjoys to do and apparently Luap hesitated long enough for some good guys to leave. Maybe one can draw a parallel to the "probation" we had here. It did upset a lot of the good guys, and some did leave this forum just on principal. In hindsight a better alternative might have been to ban one or two of the offenders but I'm not too sure. I'm really really glad I don't have to make such decisions.

Ditch the rubber and use those clamps by themselves. Hardcore

Lot's of smart ass jokes flourishing about this. One of the better: ”The last wish of the Icelandic economy was to have its ashes scattered over Europe…”