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Its principal is described here: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/enduralast%20450%20voltage%20regulation.pdf (aftermarket replacement) Check that you don't have a voltage drop between regulator ground (casing) and battery negative. I had to replace my regulator a year ago. It worked, sort of, but was too weak so probably it only used one phase. It didn't produce a net charge below 3000 rpm.

I think Roy meant it holds 13.5 V after charging, which is enough or even a little high (after "resting" for a while without the charger, the battery should be 12.8 V in room temperature). Otherwise Hubert is right, these AGM batteries are a little special and should ideally be charged with a voltage closer to (but not above) 15 V. I can't come up with a good and simple schematic for the pressure switch. Here is one that should work but it adds another relay. I don't like that. A transistor could be used instead but I don't like that either. I guess something like this is what you meant, Hubert? Like you said, if the pressure relay fails you will probably still have light. Also, we can use the diode around the second relay again. Like Roy, I think the other schematic is better. KISS principle is good.

I suspect many reported relay problems was really socket problems. When replacing the relays, the sockets gets a little conditioned and may service for yet some time. What you did is probably a longer term fix. Either bending the terminals a little, or pinch their mates in the sockets.

After the priming it will remain inactive no matter what you do.

Roy just realized something I have totally overlooked: the pressure switch is closed when the oil pressure is LOW, not the other way round. This invalidates the diagrams I posted that use the switch for turning off the headlight when engine is not running. It can still be done but you'd need to do it another way. Stay tuned.

Sure. The diodes must be rated at least 5 A and if they are I wouldn't care about overheating. Diodes almost always fail to shortcut anyway, and in this case that wouldn't harm too much. I just used the larger size insulated spade connectors for all of them, because I had plenty of them and none of the smaller. Make double sure you protect all wires from chafing. This is just the plain ol' relaying, but with diodes added that will give you light even if the relay fails. I recommend using 1-1.5 mm2 wires for the new feed. For slow nations, that's 15-17 AWG. I endorse spreading, without caring the slightest if my name is mentioned or not. Any disclaimer you or I can think of applies.

To give a more credible source for that statement than just your's truly, it's said in this wikipedia article (which in turn states its sources) that the light output [for halogen bulbs] is reported as proportional to voltage to the power of 3. Using the numbers Roy posted this means almost 38% loss of light power. That is a friggin' enormous loss of light power. No wonder my original beam was weak and yellow. Besides I've also heard more than one story of problems with ignition, light or horn switches due to routing the full power through them. Like Hubert said, those voltage drops are heat somewhere!

You almost don't see the bike, just like Skeeve said. Even apart from traffic visibility it's too anonymous IMHO

There are already numerous threads on this subject but they are getting old and I see no harm in repeating it. I have no notes but I think that losses is in par with what I had. The difference after relaying was huge. It's also worth every penny to use a high quality bulb IMO. They are still not very expensive. Many people try to compensate the loss by installing a high wattage bulb instead of relaying. This will only result in even greater voltage drop and end up still giving worse light than what you get with a standard bulb after relaying. Also, a 100W bulb can easily ruin the reflector which can be an expensive experience.

For fault-finding purposes, maybe you should mention the crankshaft sensor. If it fails, you will still have the "priming" sound from the fuel pump, but when cranking, the pump will be dead (as will the sparks and injectors). This sensor is impossible to bodge fix: If it fails you are grounded, period. On the other hand it's not impossible to source as the same model is used in various cars. This model sensor was used in all EFI Guzzis at least until the CARC ones (possibly they too use it). It's a Magneti Marelli SEN-8I3, also used in Alfa Romeo 145/146 1.4, Fiat Tempra 1.8 ie, Fiat Tipo 1.8 ie, Lancia Dedra 1.8 ie, Lancia Delta II 1.8 ie, Fiat p/n PDTS0032, 60810103, 64820168010, SEN8I3, SEB163, 7733001 yada yada. You can measure it for resistance and a healthy one should be 680 ohms (± 10%) across two of its wires.

They did! This thread is the discussion that led to http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204

I bought a complete set of GEI relays from PyroDan a couple of years ago and I ordered two extra for the lights. Most of the old Siemens relays are fine so I'll use one of them for the horns (which can be wired similar to one half of the headlight relay schematics, including a diode if you want but not the pressure switch ), haven't got around to that yet. One of the others I carry as a spare. Actually I used one of the existing fuses for the new feed, I think it was the horn relay. Mind you my Sporti is not wired exactly like the V11, I just picked a fuse with constant battery power and not much other load on it. I use spade connectors to the relays instead of sourcing proper sockets, covered the lot with electrical tape and tucked it behind the headlight. I don't remember the original voltage drop but I remember it was a LOT. I relayed it and replaced bulb with a 60/55 high end bulb and it was literally a night and day difference, pun intended. Light transformed from weak yellow bicycle-like light to a proper beam more like my car's. I've had it for two or three seasons now with no problems. You are right about the fuse but I don't think it's much needed. I do carry spare fuses, in fact I found you can tuck one spare between every two fuses in the OEM fuse block, at least on my bike. Speaking of relays, one day my bike just died on me while overtaking a couple of cars. It put me in an awkward position but I managed to get to the roadside alive and start looking for the fault. It turned out the power relay had completely vibrated out of its socket. This after tens of thousands of kilometers with no such problems. The other four relays were still properly seated. I pushed it back and carried on. Weirdest thing, the whole scenario repeated (including me overtaking cars and the awkward position) within 150 kms on the same trip. Same relay had popped out again. And even weirder, it never happened again after that! The bike must have had vibrations in just the right harmonics that day. Anyway I ended up zip-tying the relays to their sockets. I think the proper fix is pinching the spade connectors inside the sockets, that is on my to-do list. Or maybe I should use hose clamps

Thanks. Unfortunately, I think we'd have to leave that extra diode off the low beam relay, right? Otherwise the pressure switch can't stop the low beam from going on because it will use the backup. I didn't realize until now. Personally I think I'll use both diodes but leave the pressure switch out of the circuit. My battery can power the headlight for an hour with power left to crank the engine. I edited the picture in my previous post, removing the low beam diode. For completeness, here's the same with no pressure switch: Diodes must be rated 5 A or higher. For the new 12 V feed I used 1.5 mm2 wires.

Quick'n'dirty idea (I don't think this is an important function at all but I like playing with thoughts): Add low and high beam relays as has been described in various threads, but let the oil pressure sensor be the low beam relay coil's ground path. Very important: Leave the high beam relay independant of same sensor in case it decides to give up at speed, in the dark... Edit: I don't think I'd implement the above but I just realized there is a way to protect yourself from losing headlight due to relay failure. Just add diodes between the relay coil's positive side and the N.O. contact that goes to the bulb (later edit: can't have that diode together with pressure switch, see later post). This I will implement. I already have the relays. EDIT: The previously posted pressure switch schematic will not work. The pressure switch is closed when we don't have oil pressure, so we'll have to invert it. See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15686 for further discussion. Oh, and remember there are always a hundred happy readers that won't thank you but use your schematics, for every one that does thank you. This is just how it is, on any forum. Good work, I have downloaded it and I will download any future versions, thank you!

I don't know about V11's but the Sporti schematics from Guzzi are almost unreadable. They are downsized beyond the point of losing information so enlarging it doesn't help. Carl's are larger, better and with colours that helps tracking.

Excellent, Roy! Carl Allison's schematics are very good too but harder to use for fault finding. And they wont fit on the computer screen without information loss.

If that quote is credible you're all set. 70 psi is 4.8 bar, more than enough. OEM has an internal relief valve @5 bar IIRC. Sounds good to me if we can find a better source for the 70 psi spec. Edit: Hey, that exact BMW model is mentioned at the COG, citing an article from mgnoc. That pump is supposed to be perfect.

The assembled version is a lot of money, unfortunately. I bought the DIY kit, that is cheaper than a PC. It's not that hard to put together if you know [someone who knows] a little electronics. Almost without exception, Cliff will answer email questions within 24 hours. That is not an explicitly expressed service level, but it's how it has been for me over the years. Warranty, well I had one catastrophic failure. It was probably mostly my bike's fault but the ECU should have coped with it better. Cliff repaired it for free, I just paid my shipping. Also, he immediately made some changes in software and later more changes in hardware (I had a MkII, they are MkIV now) to handle similar problems better. I bought my ECU three or four years ago and I still get new software versions for free. Latest firmware supports a bluetooth dongle so I don't even need to hook up a cable to my laptop if I want to tweak something or log a ride. And if you come up with a good enhancement request, chances are Cliff will listen and update the firmware. I can't imagine having any influence on the Power Commander R&D...

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/ Same as a PDF: http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/oil-filters/Motorcycle%2520oil%2520filters%2520exposed.pdf

I really regret not measuring valve spring preloads before leaving heads for overhaul, because afterwards it was a full mm too long on two valves and 0.6 mm on the others. I do not believe the head work can account for that much so I guess it was blind-shimmed from the factory. All of them had one 1.0 mm shim and two 0.3 mm shims... I'm replacing all springs but I shimmed it up to spec for good measure. Maybe I could even raise my rev limiter a couple of hundred rpms . I sourced four new 1 mm shims (had to use OEM, they are not standard size), and I also moved two of the 0.3 mm ones from exhaust to inlet. Now the (heavier) inlet valves are 34.7 (harder end of range 34.7-35.0) and the exhausts are 34.9. I also replaced my oil pump bearing while I had the chance, as it didn't feel 100.0% OK. I hope to never open this engine again, knock on wood. I always wondered about the inconsistent reports of this bearing's size, now I found that's because it's a needle bearing with separate inner and outer races. So it varies depending on what you replace: Inner race is 10x14x20. Outer race is 18x22x20, it fell out by its own weight upon heating the pump body. Bearing itself is (thus) 14x18x20 but there was two pieces of 14x18x10 in my engine. I wonder what you'd get if ordering the OEM 92252210, maybe that is just one 10 mm needle bearing? Anyway I'm not going to find out. I replaced the lot with a NAO 10x22x20. Any bearing shop should have them. It still is separate races and 2x10 mm but it comes as a set.

Actually it ended up just below $98 for me, I guess it can't be much more for Czech. Try mailing parts@motointernational.com

You will never part with that bike and you know it

Sounds like the 'italian sneeze' that many of us have experienced. Check valve lash. A tad wide is better than too narrow. Then check throttle body sync. If problem remains, check TPS. Here too, it's better to have it read a little high than low, within reason. My particular bike ran awful if I used factory spec 0.10/0.15 mm for valves. Opening it to 0.15/0.20 or even 0.20/0.25 made all problems vanish, rock steady idle and no misses at low load cruising. Maybe this is no longer true after heads overhaul, we'll see.

Normal thread, ccw. I normally have someone hold a large blade screw driver against the starter gear teeth through the timing inspection hole. It's doable without anyone helping too. I don't use locktite there, torque spec is 78 Nm. That o-ring is placed inside the crank shaft sleeve. I use to grease both the seal and the o-ring (and the whole sleeve) with whatever grease is nearest.

Give the swingarm bearings some conditioning (that is, just rotate them!) and do not replace them unless you are sure it is needed! They are the very hardest parts to remove on the whole bike. At least on my bike, the bearing seats was not masked from painting. They must have used a humongous press to fit the poor bearings. I regretted having started but I ruined them so I had to finish. I ended up cutting them out with a dremel. And that is not easy, without doing damage to the seats.