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Not properly [#107140] Sorry, but you do not have permission to use this feature. If you are not logged in, you may do so using the form below if available. I was logged in. Am I not worthy?

Oil in the airbox is usually leftovers from a too high oil level at some point in time, which was vented into the airbox. The milk is oil too, with water in it. It's probably just that. Either just ride it, or if you like you can dismount the airbox and clean it out.

I've heard of problems from people using pods but I think you should check your TB sync. There must be plenty of vibrations or something if the hoses pops off with the airbox in place. Having said that, some problems with pods are completely cured after replacing the rubber boots. They have an inner relief, or shape... doh, my english fails now but I think you get it. New ones will sit much better

For minimum thickness, trust the stamped figures on the rotors above anything else. I got brand new OEM rotors that was thinner than the WHB minimum! Their stamped figure was way lower too of course, so no problem.

I do not think any sensible location would be prone to overheating. Putting it in the x-over or near it (upstream) will make you read both cylinders but that is actually not a good thing. Mount it like in the picture Paul posted, and check out the MyECU thread, as well as Cliff's own forum.

http://www.cylinderh....uk/K-line.html I would regard it as TV-shop-style crap if I didn't know Roper and many others swear by them. Cheaper and better. http://www.v11lemans...indpost&p=39999

It reminds me of Pete's avatar

Consider K-Lining, it's cheaper and some say it's even better

Aye. Good write up. Dang, I should do this myself. While on the subject, does anyone have an opinion on brake line hoses? My bike is a 1997, likely with brake lines never replaced. They look fine. Should I just continue to replace fluid now and then or should they be replaced after this or that age?

They don't sell caliper rebuild kits anymore. I get that sound now and then (not often) despite nothing's really wrong. When it happens, check the rotor for heat. If you can keep your hand on it without getting hurt, there's no problem, unless you really want to get rid of the noise anyway. Check the pedal play. There must be 5-10 of mm of play before the rod touches the master cylinder inside that rubber boot. Also, remove the pads, inspect them and the rubbers, clean everything and put together again.

My 1100 Sport WHB says 120 Nm, it's more or less the same components. I'd say that's a bad typo. Docc is a credible source despite the little nipple mishap

Pie charts

My dream is a 150 m2 garage with a hammock. I wouldn't need any house fitted to it.

95% of car drivers consider themselves being in the top 5% of skilled drivers

It is so utterly weird the cans formerly known as "for racetrack use only" are now more like "for street use only". Soon they'll want to impose 70 km/h speed limits on all tracks in Europe too. I really loved Guy's advice though

You sure about this? If we're talking about the same thing I'm certain they are M6. Mick, did you take a measure?

I'd like at least one of each if they look good. T-shirt sizes are the most relative thing in the entire world. Sometimes I can use M, sometimes I need XXL. I tend to rather risk it being a little too large. What would be expected shipping costs to Europe?

Yeah, thanks! I actually had that bookmarked too but my collection of bookmarks is becoming incomprehensible

No, it was from a previous owner using the pads down to the metal (and then some). That is a very expensive way to try and save money. My current rotor still look like new after 30.000 kms, just like the pads. Ducati 996 book says max 0.3 mm runout. Not the same rotor, not even the same size but that's what I'll use as ballpark reference myself until someone tells me a better one. But if you can't feel any pulsing in the pedal, I wouldn't worry. BTW the minimum thickness specs seem to vary so don't blindly follow the books unless you really can't find a number stamped to the rotor. My rotors had a different figure stamped than the WHB stated.

Someone actually having the knowledge please correct me but I don't think you'll ever need oversize valves due to wear. It's more of an option for tuning. I read somewhere (possibly Guzziology) that the 1100's got the 0.5 mm smaller valve sizes because their hotter cam would make the larger valves come too close at overlap.

(moved this to this thread from Tom's one) I'm just patiently waiting for parts. The head guy will k-line my guides and deck the head 1 mm, as well as refresh my plug threads as they were molested by a PO. The cam guy is regrinding my cam to stock profile, Hubert was kind enough to lend me a better one to use as master. I got new piston rings from Greg and correct gaskets from Stucchi. And lots of other goodies are waiting now, like an oil pressure gauge, LSL steering damper, new LED tail light and whatnot FWIW my valves were fine, even the exhausts, after 72,000 kms. Maybe Guzzi were out of cheese that day.

I tend to use both brakes but I mostly do long-distance rides (ride, eat, repeat). I replaced my rear rotor and pads a couple of years ago, and after 30,000 kms the pads looks like they will make another 10,000 kms at least. The same mileage in short "rides around town" would probably have needed 3-4 sets of pads of course. I guess the same goes for tires. And boots: I had a habit of dragging my boots to the tarmac when resting my legs during long trips. My current boots did not hold up for that treatment more than a week

Nice! That MR piston dome would hit the hemi wall in a decked head, wouldn't it? It is low but very wide. My OEM piston squish band is 7 mm in from the circumference, MR look like half of that tops. But that is only logical since it was made for the stock heads.

I've looked at pictures like that one and also at the real stuff but it doesn't give me conclusive answers. What is #11 for example? Is that the pressurized, filtered delivery to the engine? And what happens with the oil cooler return (not pictured)?

Try a knock or two in the other direction, in case the "spring lock" (whatever the correct name would be) hangs in some way. Then a drop of oil or WD40 in both ends too. Then try again. After five minutes go have a cup of coffee Then go at it again. The coffee part is the most effective.