As far as I know the oil circuit goes like this in a V11:
pickup -> pump -> filter -> OPV -> engine ----> dribble back to sump
There's no dedicated return path at all, right? All oil flows out through bearings and stuff? And here is the main question: Where does the oil cooler and it's thermostat insert into that? Is it between OPV and engine? And how does that thermostat work, does it specifically alter the flow between two paths or will it just present an easier route or not?
No guesses please, unless you state it as such.
That's a thought. But a bad AFR reading will almost always show too lean, not too rich. Maybe it's too rich all over the map and reads leaner at lower rpm.
Ratch, if I use a larger or bolder font than you do, or sixteen thousand words more, will I win then?
Anyway, I'm delighted you use the word 'groupthink'. This is an excellent example of YOU groupthinking. Or maybe not, maybe you are just lobbying.
I've got a closed loop ECU and it supplied 10% less fuel in midrange to maintain the target A/F because of worse breathing. That means 10% less power no matter what you do. I suppose you may have some benefit from pods near redline but I don't run near redline a lot.
I once read about a peculiar home built anti-theft switch for a car. It was a simple electronic device that let the engine run for 20 seconds at a time. The switch was not hidden at all, just an extra aux switch somewhere on the dashboard. The fact that the engine ran a while each time would make the thief not looking for any switch but just presume it was a crappy car and leave it.
No, you can't just plug it unless you arrange some other breather. When I tried pods, I used a longer hose that ended up behind the gearbox. Never saw a drop come out of it so I guess you could just as well leave the original hose zip-tied to the frame.
FWIW I tossed the pods and remounted the airbox again after logging huge performance losses in midrange. But I miss the looks of my K&N's with red prechargers.
You've broken one? Or are you plugging it? Someone had the idea to extend the fuel tank to the frame
I hamfistedly broke one, that's why I know its size. Stupid me thought "this heavy thread can take a lot of torque" and totally forgot to include all the perforation in my calculations
As far as I recall the stick meets the oil pretty near center of the sump. This means that you can put it on the sidestand and the reading wont be affected much. It's not a millimeter critical reading anyway, I'm not too afraid of a little over filling.
I don't recall ever having to top up oil, but don't let that lead you away from checking now and then.
I'm not sure what to think of that, but I do keep them together since that can't hurt - while not doing it might. I also use to keep the Woodruff key stuffed to the magnet so I don't lose it. The downside of that is I always forget that I did it, so I end up looking for it a while each time
Apparently the external pumps are (or can be replace with) Bosch 0580464048
http://www.fuelpumps.com/19911993-bmw-318i...8l-p-10134.html
http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1579
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Custom Bikes/moto_guzzi_v11_coppa_acerbo.htm://http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/mo...oppa_acerbo.htm
I agree about the chrome fender... but I think it's better than carbon fiber, for example. The "protectors" on oil cooler and throttle bodies are a total failure on any Guzzi, just bin them.
Still a nice bike.
Any well sorted Sporti redlines in highest too, despite higher gearing. That's like 240 km/h or 150 mph real speed. I'm not sure if the fairing is better or worse than a LM fairing.
It's strange they lowered the gearing when they introduced the sixspeed
Edit: 8000 rpm should be about 240 km/h with a 70 profile rear, or 230 km/h (143 mph) with a 60 profile.