raz

Guzziology says the lifter surface is convex "to a radius of one meter". No wonder you can't see it with your bare eyes. I'm not gonna try regrinding them but it's curious info.

I'm glad my Sporti has a steel tank. On the cog there's plenty of folks having problems with swollen Centauro tanks. No problem until you remove it, but if you do you may have a hard time getting it back on. Consensus now seem to be that if you have it off the bike for a while, it should absolutely not have fuel in it. I have no idea if that is a good advice but you can't go wrong following it. Unlike just about everyone else I don't think ethanol has anything to do with it. It's just a very convenient thing to blame these days.

Thanks, I also got confirmation from Moto-Mecca that they have the correct 1.2 mm ones. But their price for one gasket is €13.10 while Stucchi is €5.25... I need to compare a bunch of prices!

13.4 V may be perfect for a car battery but it's a little low for an AGM battery. 14-15 volts is good. I replaced my regulator last spring and now it charges about 14.1 at any speed but idle. At idle it's slightly below 14 volts. Anyway personally I wouldn't replace a battery until it gives me problems. Some of them last "forever".

I appreciate the -Z suffixed part numbers (german third-part alternatives) as long as I can choose when I want them or not. Sometimes cheaper, sometimes better. In this case, they don't use the -Z number but apparently they ship non-OEM parts anyway. I take it he means Agostini's in Mandello.

I just got confirmation from Stein-Dinse that they only supply 1.75 mm ones. And he called it "that normal 1.75 version". Who would ever want that thickness? On a stock bike the compression would drop below 9:1 if I got the numbers right. I'll try to get OEM ones over the counter somewhere so I can check them.

Does anyone know if 30022060 (head gasket, Cal.1100/1100 Sport/V11) is supposed to be 1.75 mm? Is there some other part number for 1.2 mm ones? Are there any other sizes available than those two?

Nice and clean Bob but personaly I would skip that red frame and use something that don't draw attention. Like black or matching silver.

I just noticed Guzziology mentions that Guzzi introduced a new cam in 2003 for bikes using hydraulic lifters, with a 2.5 mm oil gallery in each lobe instead of two 2 mm holes between lobes. I wonder if the "Breva cam" available for us has this same mod, or was that only for the PI bikes? All HMB-Guzzi's cams are modified the same way. I suppose any cam shop can do a similar modification when regrinding, for very little added cost. Are there downsides?

Sorry, I was thinking in terms of "pushrod lowered 0.2 mm" which was what he and I were discussing. That is negligable. An aftermarket head gasket of 1.75 mm will lower it more than twice of that, compared to an 1.2 mm one and last time I ordered two head gaskets from SD I got one of each thickness I understand your concern about not having a fresh master. I was concerned too. But this is a reputable pro and after looking at it for a while he said there is enough unworn profile at the very edges for him to make a proper master. If I wouldn't trust him I should not leave my cam there in the first place.

That's a lot? Please elaborate. I trust this guy, it will be fine. Changing profile is an idea, but it would mean more material removed or new material added, more work and money and I'm happy with the OEM profile. Hotter cam means more wear and I'm sick of valvetrain wear now.

When I'm forced to ride on roads worse than I'm comfortable with, I always think of this clip: Look about 1 minute into the clip for some gravel. Mother of mother of gravel

I suppose I could have just ridden it for another 50,000 kms, or double that, before any real need to fix things. That goes for many other jobs I've done to this bike. I tend to look a little too much because I like to nurse it in winter. Other people buy carbon fiber sprocket protectors, I grind my cam I broke an exhaust stud a couple of years ago and had to shoot it away with EDM. So I had to strip that head and when I did I noticed the guides were worn and springs a tad short. Since then I've planned to overhaul the heads at some point in the future, but no hurry. Then I bought the FBF pistons cheap from Antonio and I figured fixing the heads before replacing pistons would be the Right ThingTM. BTW, I left my cam at the shop today and he said I caught it so early he will just have to take a couple of tenths of millimeters from it. So it won't change my rocker geometry. But now I'm attached to the idea of milling the head anyway

Considerably lighter. I think that is the better part of the total wight difference. Stock pin (at least mine1)) is 58.05 mm long, ID 13.4 mm FBF pin (at least mine2)) is 63.5 mm long but ID is 15 mm in the middle, tapered out to 18.6 mm in the ends (nominal OD is 22 mm) 1) 1100 Sport 2) My FBF boxes says "V-11 F27700" if that is any indication of version

I put out an ad on a local forum so depending on how that goes I may reconcider again Also, just keeping the FBF ones on the shelf is not too bad since I'll almost certainly will own a V11 at some point in the future. Edit: Damn, a stock piston ring kit is almost 100 € Edit again: Double Damn, need two of them, that's 200 € - what I bought the whole FBF set for.

I'm sure this is just me being stupid... but I can't for the life of me understand why you would mill the base of the cylinder and not the top of it. Milling the base must be just the same as altering the base gasket thickness, in every aspect. Please tell me what I got wrong.

That would help, yes. I don't know the ratio of the rocker, though I should be able to find that out. I also don't know how much would typically be milled away from my cam, or how much deeper in the seats my valves will sit. I'm beginning to get a better picture in my head but it lacks the concrete numbers. This is more complex than it first appears, though it may be more or less academic (like Gene implied) depending on how much, in absolute numbers, these changes will actually affect things. As far as I understand, the rocker arm angle will be determined by the valve seat regrind, and only that. It can't be adjusted except shimming the rocker plate or modifying the valve stems. Apparently HD sells valves with a 0.76 mm shorter stem, to compensate for reground seats. Maybe that's an indication of what order of figures we're facing. The cam regrind on the other hand, only determines how much of the adjustment screw length will be used. The more it is wound down compensating a reground cam, the more sideway forces will be put to the pushrod cup and adjuster ball. But it will not change the rocker angle. If we want to use less of the screw length, we need either longer pushrods or a milled head/barrel. Again, it may be completely academic but I can see why milling the heads should, in this case, only do good for the geometry while just dropping in the FBF pistons would not.

It's not the relay. Probably the socket or the Amp connector for the instrument panel. Or even the bulb, sometimes they work intermittently for a while before permanently going out.

So I found a reputable guy who can regrind my cam and it seems it will end up around €100 with hardening. Pondering Motoguzznix' comments I wonder what if I don't mill the heads or barrels? The pushrods will be a tad short, how much of a problem is that? I guess I'll refresh my rocker faces too but tappets will be replaced with new ones. If this really makes an incentive to mill the heads and ditch the FBF pistons, I'll go for that. Otherwise I like the idea of trying the FBF ones out and not touching the heads. For now.

That's a thought. Pistons already seemed level with barrels (unless my new base gaskets differs from the old ones) so I guess I'd just take a mm off the heads. I would keep the stock pistons but replace the rings and maybe I can sell the unused FBF pistons for €200, which is what I paid for them... that route would hurt my wallet less, thanks for reminding me. It seems a new cam from Guzzi is 310 €. The only one available is 05053331 "Breva, Griso, Norge, Cal. Vint.", I wonder if that has the same specs as my old one?

Thanks a lot, Greg and Gene. This is becoming expensive

Pushing one side together so I double the gap, I can fit a 0.10 mm gauge but not a 0.15. I thought they were not actually convex but rather just tapered from center, as in "cone shaped" and when I hold them together I can't see any spherical shape, just an angle. Hard to tell though.

Holding my two least pitted followers against each other, they are definitely convex. Do you believe that is an urban myth? I asked the head shop guy about the rockers and lifters. At €20 each, he suggested I should buy a full set of new lifters. As the rockers are surface hardened he could regrind them but I'd have to find another shop for hardening them. He also gave the same advice as you, I could grind them down myself. Only one of my rockers have pitting (incidently the one you saw in the picture, it's the LH exhaust by the way), the others are worn with (soft) steps but otherwise look fine. I will probably replace the pitted one right now and postpone the others. They are easy to replace later whenever I want/afford/need to.

Crappy camera and hard to get the light fall in right. I took a lot of pictures, all can be browsed here. Hopefully some of them are good enough. In real life the light areas that almost look shiny here are actually dull grey, and the darker areas are shiny but with "discoloration". I really appreciate some help here, I have no idea if these traces are good or bad. What I can tell is there's no pitting and all four lobes measure 35.0 mm to the opposite side with a vernier caliper. That may have happened before I got the bike @ 35,000 kms, I have no idea. I change the oil properly and I don't ride short distances. What I do know is that some PO did some pretty stupid things with the bike, worst found so far being the oil pump sprocket nut replaced to wrong thread, stripped it and GLUED that stripped nut to the shaft. Fortunately I found that years ago and fixed it. Today I could also see evidence someone did something with the cam before me, apparently with a chinese monkey wrench instead of 10 mm sockets. Why, I do not know. The cam has KE stamped on it, I guess that means it's still the correct cam.

OK I'm there now. As expected, the tensioner has visible tracks from chain wear. It's not very deep though, so the tensioner should last as long as the chain. Remember to order the seal in the timing cover as well as the o-ring inside the alternator shaft bushing. I didn't replace them the first time, and had no problems. But it would be damn irritating if there was a leak afterwards. Same goes for the timing cover gasket of course. I've never tried to re-use that one. As you may know, as soon as you need more than just a couple of gaskets, a complete gasket set may be cheaper and then you have all you need and some for the shelf. Oh, and beware of a couple of dl of oil in there even if you dried the sump. My oil pump shaft has some amount of play. I can't remember if I replaced those bearings, need to check that. Now hold your thumbs, the next post (in the other thread) will be the results of my camshaft inspection