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The problem is not that companies are trying to please the stock holders, but they're trying to please the day traders. That is bound, by design, not to work in the long run. With a very short definition of long

Man, that made me dizzy. I totally get the argumentation and at the same time I totally don't get it.

Try the relay dance: Swap all similar relays around round-robin. If it goes away or the fault moves to something else, you're on to somethin There are plenty of threads around here on grounding, relays, relay sockets, switch contacts and the ultimate headlight fix: relaying the headlights. That is, with separate relays not feeding anything else and taking the load off the headlight switches.

That reminds me I've been toying with the idea to mount a grease nipple on my gearlever pivot. Grease nipples is the shit. Not my idea, someone here mentioned it long ago. It may have been a joke but I love it

I have a set of FBF pistons I bought from Antonio for half the original price. I'll send my heads for overhaul and pop the pistons in. I also found a good dyno guy that I trust will make the best of the lot next spring, and I'll try mapping it for E85 just for the hell of it. It will not be flexifuel nor environment friendly, just max power. I'll need to up the fuel pressure or fit larger injectors. If I ditch the E85 idea I'll send the present injectors for cleaning instead. New steering damper is on the list too as well as a full set of new brake pads. Possibly brake lines too, she's over 12 years old now. Oh, and a front tyre. Oh yeah, and a new LED tail light. The clear-glass one I've got ruins the look. Money money money

No Fiats as far as I know, but Ducati, Piaggio and Aprilia. But then you'll have to find someone that can alter the map. I don't know why you're searching for a replacement but if you can't find one at a reasonable price you might want to check out http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/index.htm

Just for the record, I've found all the nominal numbers now. Whatever good that is... anyway, in case someone needs them: Wheelbase: 1,475 mm Rake: 26° Fork offset: 45 mm Trail: 96 mm Fork length: 760 mm Trail is calculated from wheel radius, rake and offset using this formula. All other numbers are actually specified in the WHB, but not always easy to find. According to some old post here this means the Sporti has different geometry than both breeds of V11's, which was what I wanted to know. Edit: I wrote 80 mm trail at first, I thought it seemed short and yup, it was wrong (I fed degrees to a function that use radians). The geometry isn't that much different to a V11.

I still use bulbs, so I have no empirical input. I only had to replace a bulb once, and when I did I replaced all of them while at it. If they start to break more often I'll consider the switch.

Good thinking. The most bang for the bucks is to buy gasoline and just ride it

Good stuff, Roy. Personally I don't see the point of adding a LED and keeping the bulb for the fuel though. But at least it will light up if the bulb breaks, so you wont run out of fuel without warning. The charging light needed no special arrangement? I wasn't sure of that one.

Just keep it away from hot parts or silly amounts of water and you're fine. If your original idea is possible without altering the wires I'd go for that.

I totally agree. My playing with the idea of moving the sensor is purely for more consistent starting, and possibly idling in slow traffic. I tend to believe that when the engine ingests 2 - 3 m3 of air per minute, the sensor will measure the same, correct, temp at either location. This thread can't end up like the other sensor thread... or can it?

The 1100 Sport exhaust is not identical to V11. Both the downpipes and the pipes between x-over and cans are 42 mm ID / 45 mm OD and (so) the crossover is 45 mm ID at both ends. So the JCW's will fit (in that aspect anyway). If you decide to buy them, please report how it turns out, and post a picture!

Agreed. Damn. Thanks for posting that. Over an hour of entertaining reading.

http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/ http://www.horvath-guzzi.at/ http://www.tlm.nl/specials/werkplaats/?id=89 I just know they do it, I haven't tried any of them.

Really?! I just assumed it was bleached through. If it was mine I would definitely try it. Imagine the feel of satisfaction if it works out to look like new!

I put it in an ambiguous way just to keep you awake. I meant without altering the bike, it will get a too rich mixture when starting a very hot engine, as it will have heated intake air but the sensor wont tell.

I think this thread on the cog has any info you need about that subject. The V11's has the exact same parts.

New generation search. http://spezify.com/ I'm not sure if it's good at all but first impression is "man, that's cool" PS. jrt, I really liked fark.com

That's beatuiful, but... that blue frame color? I'd repaint it before even starting the engine

Depending on where you have free threads you can put the lock nut on the inside or the outside. I had it on the outside. Regardless of my trying to keep it secure when I locked it, it altered sync significantly because the plastic deformed in some way. I'll try relocating the threads (using RH side) so I can put a lock nut on the inside, that should cause no interference. You gotta love wing nuts on motorcycles

Your turn Guy!

Now I think you confuse 500 mV with 5 V (5000 mV). Because of how most digital volt meters are constructed, your 382 mV will show as up to 0.382 volts, while the higher voltages show as your WOT 4.81 volts. The latter is 4810 mV of course. Tom is talking about a 0.530 volt idle.

Congratulations Antonio, I'll continue my quest for a stumper