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Sorry, then I agree it's high. What was the idle reading? Are you sure the fast idle cam was not interfering? Even with its cable completely slacked, the cam can interfere with the throttle unless it too is is backed off. I'm not sure how clear that is put in the How-To. Anyway the answer to your PCIII question is no, it should not influence the reading.

Let's put it this way: If your bike runs bad, this may indicate you should try setting the TPS and idle. But if it runs fine, maybe this particular bike need it this low. Some people get bad results when following the How-To. As you now have your current setting noted (you should check your baseline 150 mV reading too, and write it down) you can always go back if you want to try. The WOT reading can't ever actually reach 5 volts. My WOT is about the same.

You should start a blog Hell, I say just do it! If you end up regretting it and trade the MV for a Griso? All will be fine!

You leave it backed off. Maybe the How-To should state this more clearly as this comes up several times a year. Ratchethack: I don't understand a word of your description of the rod adjustment. Either I just misread it, or your gear is completely different than the ones I've seen. It could also be that you misunderstand the construction completely but that would surprise me. I just turn the LH white knob. There is no lock nut. I actually put one on (a wing nut, how cool is that) for a while, until I noticed the sync went out as I tightened it.

Yup. I found it here: http://www.gizmag.com/go/4273/ It has interesting characteristics. 205 kg ready to ride. Fuel economy: 2.5 liters/100 km "It produces at the moment approximately 70 bhp and 160 Nm (118 ft pound) of torque. We will increase the power and torque later this year to more than 100 bhp and between 200 to 250 Nm of torque. We decided to slowly increase the power output of the machine, so we can easily see what the effects are and because it’s an enormous amount of torque on the drive train of the machine." I wonder where the rev limiter is, like, 4000 rpm?

A sensor that reads the actual intake air temperature is, of course, theoretically better. The closer to the throttle bodies, the better. There should be no difference except in very slow traffic and when starting an already warm engine. On those occasions your bike (as well as my pre-V11) will get a richer than needed fuel mixture. I doubt you will ever notice the difference, but I actually plan to move my sensor, just because I can. I even consider moving the air pressure sensor so it reads the pressure downstream of the air filter instead of upstream. Same there, probably not that important (unless you ride with a very clogged filter which is stupid anyway) but theoretically it's more correct.

What does it say? They will introduce something new at EICMA November 11, yes?

OBND, did you replace just the solenoid? When I first read it I thought it was the whole starter. Roy is right and the Valeos are known to let go of glued permanent magnets, which will jam badly.

So what the heck is this? Name, displacement, and whatever.

+1 Now, Guy, please give us mortals a quiz! BTW I must say I really like the look of this CB 300R. Not bad at all. It does look like a 50cc though, though a real killer at that.

Foto, I recently mentioned on a Swedish forum (as I was linking to your wonderful garage clip) I would trade my bike, my car and my left foot against your EVert

If it sits very tight, heat the joints using a torch or a heat gun. Night and day.

Awesome movie!

These are tiny brakes, and drum rear, no? And single cylinder with girlish exhaust diameter. Can't be much over 125cc if even that?

Good idea. This bike is obviously a Gilera with engine size of 125 cc. Edit- of course it could be any size. 180, 250, maybe even just 50. Looks like DNA but not quite. Manual gear. 2002-ish?

That is some really nice pictures!

Cold air is the cheapest race fuel in the world, but I'd rather lose several horses for sure. It's 5°C (41°F) here

Yeah... on a SAAB 900, just like Gene mentioned

My brother tried that without help from other dilettants. Sudden front wheel lock at 70 km/h until stopped in a ditch. No-one was hurt but I can't forgive myself for not catching it when he phoned me, confused about the tiny amount of oil it took (at least he didn't overfill the engine). I helped him replace the gearbox though. Wasn't pretty.

Maybe it depends on battery type. I've seen and heard about AGM batteries destroyed by a battery tender (applied against recommendation) while a one-shot full charge will make such a battery happy for years. So I just wont try a battery tender with my Odyssey.

That can be done with other products but I use an LC-1, the simplest and cheapest of Innovate's stuff. It only has digital and analog Lambda out, nothing more. No internal logging. But it includes the Logworks software, which can also take virtual channels from plugins. So one of the LC-1 analog outputs always go to the ECU. When I log, I feed the digital out to one com port of my laptop and MyECU "Optimizer cable" to another. And GPS to a third, if I want to. The MyECU and GPS data is processed by my plugins and fed to the ActiveX interface that Logworks features. The LM-2 can be used in the same way, and/or it can log internally. But to log MyECU data internally, the data must enter via its serial input, in a protocol that is Innovate's own (but open). The software needed for that is not written afaik but it should be fairly easy to accomplish. SDK's and specs are available, although somewhat crude. That would be another type of plugin. Or it could be a very small computer gizmo made for just that task, though I doubt anyone have enough need to actually build such a thing. It has been done for less exotic ECUs. If my hard disk ever breaks from this abuse, I'll just buy an SSD one. They are not cheap but on the other hand they are super fast

I use an ordinary laptop in a tank bag and have had no problems with it. Luhbo is right about the risks. On the other hand, a modern laptop hard disk is pretty rigid and I put some clothes under the laptop in the bag. I am not too worried. Also, the best use for Logworks is on a dyno and then you can put that gear on a table. I do own an ultra-portable Eee 901 (or something) with a solid state disk and while it would be perfect in terms of vibration tolerance, it only runs Linux and I have some problems running Logworks and stuff under Wine (ECUcontroller works like a champ though). This winter I will splice the serial comms cable inside the Optimiser and add a read-only serial port to it, that can be connected to the computer. This way I will be able to use the Optimiser and the computer logging simultaneously.

Yeah charging is OK. That throttle shaft wiggle is common and I don't think it's the problem.

If those figures are correct you have a charging problem. Measured at the battery terminals they should be like >12.5, >13, >14. This problem should not cause the other but maybe it does.

Well, I would not be very surprised if someone sells LEDs with standard bulb socket and has built-in serial and parallel resistors as well as polarity-correction diodes to exactly match a good old bulb. It would be dirt cheap to mass produce, and they would hardly ever break. But I haven't seen any. I must admit I haven't looked for them either. If I stumbled upon such a beast, I would seriously consider trying it out as long as it wasn't ridiculously priced.