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I take it you mean warning lights, not the one that illuminate the meters. Maybe you mean both, but anyway some of the warning lights need a real bulb or some kind of workaround (like a resistor in parallel or a couple of diodes). I mean apart from that all LEDs need a resistor in series (that one should be built in if you find any kind of plug'n'play replacements). The oil pressure warning will work fine with a LED. And the neutral light. On bikes with a single turning indicator light, you need two diodes because the polarity depends on which turn you activate the flashers. You also need to route a new ground to it. The low fuel warning would need a careful mix of resistors in parallel and in series, otherwise it will either never light up or never go out. I think the charging light on our bikes could be replaced by a LED without affecting charging, but I'm not 100% sure. I read somewhere that some (older) bikes need a current through that bulb to charge at all. That could of course be taken care of with a carefully chosen parallel resistor too.

Yeah, it looks good! After just reading your description I did not expect that. Just couldn't picture it.

Yeah! Come to think of it, we already have a joke thread and a hooters thread. Why not an invective thread!? This will be much more useful because you can resort to it in situations like this or when removing the swing arm bearings. For some reason I picture Pete Roper filling a couple of pages by himself

You did not find all parts of the spring? I would keep looking almost indefinitely, whether or not all gears engage. If you did find them, the look of them should tell if they were part of a bigger conspiration...

Perhaps my idle lever is different from a V11 but I can definitely adjust the friction with the screw that is also the lever's axle. IIRC there is a lock nut on the underside.

I found that to be a problem when logging just the raw data and convert it w/ ECUcontrol. It's just an endless stream of text. You can import it to an Excel spreadsheet but it's still not comprehensible. And there is no time line. In Logworks, it's very easy to zoom in and out, smooth out peaks, make automated calculations and/or graph it in numerous ways. You can transform selected parts of a log to something that resembles a dyno run. Or have it calculate your next map. Or find problems with your engine or map that only surfaces at certain conditions. My GPS plugin puts real speed (as in km/h) into the logs too and it wouldn't be hard to have Logworks calculate what gear you're in at any point, as long as your clutch is not disengaged or slipping. Still, after lots of bug tracking and experimenting with this, it's a relief just going for a ride without any logging

The MyECU plugin for Logworks (as well as a GPS plugin) is now downloadable from http://www.abc.se/~rasmus/logworks/ optionally with full source code. Logworks offers endless possibilities for reading your log data. It can even be used to calculate a whole new map for you or simulate a dyno graph (with hp calculated from acceleration). Download it from here: http://www.innovatem...com/support.php Here is an example. I rode for some 45 minutes, then with a few maneuvers I produced this map of actual O2 by map cell. Note that it's upside-down, the WOT row is at the bottom.

That crossed my mind too. If the starter was engaged for one reason or the other (electrical fault, relay or whatever), it may have been interlocked out by the clutch switch until you pulled the clutch handle. If it happens again, try pulling the clutch lever just enough to activate the switch.

I'm told they used bagpipe brake line fittings for the scottish market. They squeal a lot though so it's considered an upgrade replacing them with ukulele fittings. That film is well known here too

I use heat (cheap "spray can" torch) for disassembling exhaust. Works like a charm. Without heat it's a PITA.

Is the "daytime only MOT" a UK thing or does other countries have a similar option? In Sweden there is no such thing.

Good one, Ratch I'm always very careful not to explode exhaust boxes at horses but I must admit I have been ignorant regarding the risk of dogs getting entangled with my wheel spokes. And advice #2 should be forwarded to docc's horn thread. Hi! Hi!

Yes... you are Sure, it may look even better without lights. But the good ones I've seen look better than a Ducati 916 and to me that is the ultimate test.

Like I told you in the other thread, yes. What I didn't say was you have a link on this very page, in white on black below the logo, to Conversions. There you can convert between most odd units.

As far as I understand, there is absolutely no need to bleed if you got air in above the calipers this way (as long as it's not trapped by a bend in the line). It will self bleed. Bleeding is for getting out air trapped down in the calipers. Speaking of bleeding, once I bled calipers using a hose with a check valve. It was probably too restrictive, despite being made for that task. When I opened the nipple, the hose was pushed off it and I got a brake fluid shot very, very near my eyes. Stupid as I am, I did not wear safetly glasses. But I was lucky. Stupid as I am, I will probably not wear them the next time either. I will be very careful though.

Pushing it to LM-2 via the MTS chain is a different matter and not within my needs. But very large parts of my plugin will be reusable for that and I will release the C# source. I'm fixing the last known bug now, but don't hold your breath Oh, and forget about proof-of-concept, my plug is fully featured already

I don't think you mean Ryland's but it's awesome: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=135731 Stock mapping, standard filter, airbox cover removed, Staintune mufflers. Definitely no need to touch that ECU.

You get four nights lodging and seven meals. If fuel for the 3000 kms was included, it would be a deal.

I briefly visited something like 120 mph today on my Sporti, with a front tyre long overdue for replacement, and she told me very clearly not to even think of whacking anything. In fact it was the first time ever I let go of the throttle out of fear, on this bike. My steering damper is more or less shot but still mounted and that is probably the biggest culprit. I like the look of steering dampers so I'll replace it with something good looking this winter.

Who sells the LSLs at that price? What LSL model fits our bikes?

Personally I would not put LEDs on a vintage cafe racer. It's just... wrong.

Great idea, Paul! I'll check it out for possible additions.

While it is practically possible to adjust the stock 1100 Sport or Daytona RS damper while moving, it is definitely neither easy or safe. The fairing is in the way. I believe the fairing was intended.

These videos scare me to death everytime - until I realise the left side is the right side Nice scenery though. Edit: after posting this I saw you already got your share of "wrong side of the road" comments in the other thread so I might add that this was not my point, the point is you should see me watching these videos, I literally almost fall off my chair yielding when the first car approaches