raz

I have managed to helicoil a couple of cylinder studs. You can bet I was worried about the angle!

Both the Owners Handbook and the Workshop Manual says 400cc. Maybe the carbed one had 360?

Everyone I have heard of has had to give up the bearing puller (even with stupid amounts of heat) and resort to cutting the bastard out, which is a bit tricky since you don't want to damage the swing. It's no fun.

Cool. Sometimes it's really tricky to find room for two relays where you want them, this will solve that. But you won't be able to turn lights off (I know on some bikes you already can't)

I can confirm that. Do not change them unless you are sure you have to. You will regret it. Just excercising them will probably suffice just fine. From what I could tell, the swing arm was painted (powder coated?) before they pressed the bearing in. The bearing area was probably supposed to be masked off...

Try a little more valve lash. Textbook says 0.10/0.15 mm. I'm running "the Raceco spec" 0.20/0.25 mm but you should see a lot improvement with just 0.15/0.20 too. I have tried this back and forth and I'm confident there was no other parameter involved: It mutes the "italian sneeze" at 3000 rpm completely AND it makes my idle rock stable. I previously thought this had something to do with my heads being very worn but even after a full overhaul, it still holds true. Motoguzznix posted a technical explanation somewhere around here, it's not voodoo magic.

Andy, did you see Dan M's post above? Sounds like something to try. Though I have a steel tank which means my problems come later but are worse

They had me scratch my head there - until I realised they are not talking about the valve stems

You posted the same question on the COG over a week ago, I answered and you confirmed reading it. Is there something else you want to know? I know there are threads somewhere here about fork oil with some other kind of spec than weight but I don't remember clearly. I think good old Ratchethack repeatedly wrote about fork fluid as opposed to oil. Maybe a search here will give more info.

When I saw the coils in this video, I knew I would not want a gas leak on a MGS-01

For some reason, Dlaing disappeared along with Ratchethack. I try hard to put that up as pure coincidence...

Perhaps I should mention I ditched my K&N's and replaced the OEM airbox for performance reasons and because I like the idea of good filtering. But it's so good looking with pods I constantly consider going back. That picture is the best I have of my bike. I took me a while to find out the sad truth of why it looks so good: It's because there is no exhaust fitted. I would love finding a used Quat-D with the right price tag. I'd refit the pods and ditch that hugger. Just like the OEM airbox, the hugger does a good job of protecting the bike, but just like the airbox it's butt ugly. A couple years ago sportcyclepacific.com sold really beautiful Uni filters on chromed velocity stacks. Really good looking imho and I have a feeling they filtered much better than K&N. I can't find them now though.

It's a matter of taste but I think the nicest looking K&N's are the RU-1780 + RU-0510PR (red Precharger, other colors available). They are also probably the biggest of them that fits (it barely does) and they got angled flanges that should help performance.

But it's not a sprocket, it's clearly a camshaft sensor wheel. And the number is the MTBF for your Griso, measured in hours.

That's the second custom Guzzi I see with the heads shifted side to side. RAM intake runners

Your flywheel will grenade the day after you sell that one

M8 x 1 is not the "standard M8" but it is the "standard fine thread", I can get a tap at any good hardware store here. When I found out my cylinder studs ate the block, I threw the towel and bought a US$500 full set of helicoils (though they are called Recoil iirc, from Oz) and now a year later or two, I have forgotten the expense and it's DAMN GOOD to have that kit ready for emergencies! I seem to remember the M6 insert taps are neither M7 or M8 but M7-point-something ... I'll have a look tomorrow.

Thou shall never wash a real bike in speeds below 70 km/h I'll have a close look at my badges. My triple clamp one has never been straight so I'd love to re-glue it.

That figure may be misleading. It says 200K for me too, but that is the maximum size for a single file. If I go to settings/attachments it says I'm using 10% of my 20 MB. On the other hand I'm not sure if this limit will change as you post more, stay longer, donate or something else. Maybe we should ask Jaap to clarify, I've never seen it explained. Oh, and welcome btw, and congrats on your bike!

Really nice! Do the valve covers just fit, out of the box?

Any ride longer than one hour I'm using ear plugs. It's a relief putting them in (as I normally start without them) and it's a relief taking them out after last fuel stop as they are kind of boring. I read a review of Schuberth C2 a couple years ago and they almost gave it minus points for being too quiet(!) as they thought it bordered to a safety issue. That was what made me consider them, hoping to get rid of the plugs.

I have an 1100 Sport and I have the exact same problem. The fairing dumps all wind right at the visor. I tried a lower screen and it was better but not quite enough. I've considered buying a Schubert C3 because it is supposed to be a very quiet helmet, but then I heared they are worse than other helmets in this particular situation. So now I'm in about the same situation as you - not quite sure what to do. I played with the idea of removing the fairing completely but friends who've had naked bikes tell me I will regret it as I'm a long distance rider.

When I approach home from a ride, the last kilometer or so is limited to 30 and 50 km/h through the tiny town I live in. That speed limit I always obey, and usually running at lower revs than ever elsewhere, on a high gear. I laugh out loud every time because for some reason at that moment the bike sounds EXACTLY like a Briggs & Stratton lawnmower. Spot on. And I can't understand why, the engines are different in many ways even apart from the number of cylinders. And I don't even have the cam mr Roper referred to as the lawnmower cam!

Go for it! I attended a one day CSS course a couple years ago. People were everything between 20 and 60+ years old and riding all sorts of bikes. We were divided into groups by experience (you start on level 1 no matter your experience outside of CSS) and subgroups by "slow or fast" (which you decide yourself). There were everything between Yamaha R6's and Cruisers with leather bags that scraped the ground immediately in any curve and any speed. Damn good day it was, well worth every penny. To sum it up, I think your only concern is that tyre. I would probably replace it.

That is correct. Anti-clockwise is richer. Mid-scale is "default setting" and if we call that 12 o'clock, I have mine at about 10 o'clock. Before that though, are you positive that the fast-idle cam (on the TB) is moved out of the way when "all attachments is disconnected"? I made that mistake the first time I tried reading base trim. Even with fast idle cable comletely removed, that cam can pose as a second idle stop and thus everything was not backed off as I thought. If the roller on the cam follower is not free to, well, roll... then everything is actually not backed off. You adjust that cam by loosening a screw from below.