raz

That thread lock was like hard lacquer. I ran the worst coated screws through an M6 die, they looked like new after that.

I think Greg means the Bitubo steering dampers. Do not throw an Öhlins steering damper away. If you don't want it, send it to me and I will pay your expenses.

I should have stated that my reply was a guess. I usually take pride in separating facts from thoughts. Sorry!

When there is only one indicator light, it will get its ground from the other side, through the filaments of the non-activated side's bulbs. Since the indicator light is just 3 watts, it will suffice without them lighting up. I don't usually excuse myself for poor English but this is borderline Anyway, when you replace those bulbs with LEDs you are removing the ground path. Here is a scetch I made sometime ago on how to fix that. Give it a proper grounding and put in diodes to separate each side. Edit: "Vänster" and "höger" is Swedish för left and right

Either resistors or the better option: Replace the flasher unit with one suitable for LED. But if you do, and if you have only one indicator light for the flashers, you need two diodes.

IMHO, 7 l/100 km is really bad for a road bike. Almost any bike, new or old, should be able to cruise under 5 l/100 km unless you pin it on the Autobahn. There are cars with better figures than that.

Great news docc. Praise the Odyssey, many other batteries would have taken permanent damage!

With a little help from a friend we are very close to have this solved. All data from MyECU can be made available in Innovate's Logworks 3: TPS, RPM, sensors, pulsewidth, you name it. It's very simple really and the best would be if Cliff added the ActiveX stuff to ECUControl. Possibly I'll make a proof of concept, just passing RPM and TPS and hand that source code over to Cliff. I have code for parsing most of the raw MyECU data but some things are still missing. Logworks support will take logging to a new dimension. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/...read.php?t=4952

Just leave it there for good

If we put Scandinavia in there it would crack from heat shock

It just lacks the cush drive, much like the carbed 1100 Sport (1996) that have a similar look.

You are correct. And I'm now more convinced the alternator is shot. Can you buy just the stator?

No multimeter for home use can be trusted to tell 0.1 ohms from 0.2 so it looked good to me. It probably is broken anyway but it's a cheap test so you don't end up with a spare alternator and the need of a regulator or something like that.

Those are good once near the target, but I can move to any given cell much faster when I know the RPM breakpoints, especially when going diagonal, like from 6,8 to 7,9 and then back to 5,7. I have a good sense of rpm vs ground speed in different gears so I could use my speedo for RPM much like the TPS tacho, and then the bars you mention for fine tuning. I'm not sure why I always failed memorizing the default rpm breakpoints, maybe it's just me.

Those figures are good so I'll throw in this in case you measured with a digital meter: I have a hunch that some digital volt meters are not happy at all about frequencies other than 50 and 60 Hz. This could lead to a misreading. I think I read about one such case on a Guzzi although the misreading was at higher RPM than idle. If you think this makes any sense whatsoever you could try wiring everything up (if you didn't already) and measure DC at battery when charging instead. The good old analog meters are... good and old And in some cases they are much better. I actually bought one recently before they become unobtainable. I also have a vinyl turntable somewhere

I'd be surprised if it's demagnetized. What resistance do you measure between yellows? And between one yellow and the ground (collar)?

I thought so too until now and possibly I will go back after a while but I really had benefit from knowing by heart where the RPM breakpoints are, when in Autotune. And the 'large' spacing at lower RPM made it easier to stay near an (t,r) coordinate. Also, graphing my map showed that the interpolations will be pretty much correct anyway. A better option might be to overcome my teflon™ memory and just learn the breakpoints... I guess the best approach would be to make dyno runs at half and full throttle and watch where the largest irregularities are, for placing breakpoints at the right places for this particular engine. My bike have significantly better breathing at about 4000 rpm (+10% from what would be interpolated from it's neighbours), probably the result of my particular intake and exhaust tune. Having the TPS breaks evenly spaced (like you do too) will use the sensors bi-linearity so that seems to end up in a sensible spacing. Those I will keep for sure.

Why would you need to cut it? I've had it off a couple of times and never cut it. But it sure is a close fit.

I bet jersey is actually a spam-bot. That post was identical to one made in another thread some week ago, that Jaap edited. This time jersey made a few nonsense (but somewhat logical) posts in a couple of other threads too, just to look human. If it was a bot doing all that by itself I gotta admit I'm a little impressed. But still pissed

It turned out the new breakpoints works really really good. I always had problems remembering the RPM breakpoints when tuning, now that's easy. The TPS ones almost match Cliff's now. Before this I used more resolution at low throttle openings but the downside of that is it was much harder to hit a cell when tuning.

Sealed is good. Give a thought to the relays sockets too. I have a feeling more than 50% of all relays swap successes are actually not because a relay was shot but because the sockets were conditioned by the swapping. The GEI terminals are thinner than Omron, for example, and this may actually have more impact than the quality of the internals. I even had a (GEI) relay vibrate fully out of its socket, twice in 150 kms! The solution to that would be replacing (or tweaking) the sockets but for now I just zip-tied the relays down after cleaning them and applying a little dielectric grease, and I haven't had a problem since.

Relays was not the first guess in this case, but have you tried swapping them around just to get them out of the picture? I know cases where the power relay only gave problems at specific rpms (i.e specific vibration patterns).

Exactly. So using Autotune, a WOT pull from low rpm on high gear or uphill will often set one or more cells in the WOT row if needed. Just a couple of pulls last night rendered correction in five cells in that row. Both. RPM each 500 rpm with a little deviation for real idle @1150. And TPS in steps of 64. Actual TPS degrees will be a little skewed by the bi-linear TPS curve of course, and the non linear flow rate of air passing different angles of the butterfly (which is probably why the TPS is bi-linear in the first place). Anyway I think the map will be better spaced than what I used before. I'm visiting Gelleråsen for Classic Racing this weekend (how about you? Your Ducati club will be there!) and I'll test this on that trip.

I've had good use of this recently, thanks! Errant cells reallly show when put in a graph. Also, I could easily spot that I could move several breakpoints around because there were series of rows with linear changes that would be interpolated with little error anyway. This resulted in my next map to try: completely linear breakpoints. RPM 500 1150 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 7500 8000 THR 896 832 768 704 640 576 512 448 384 320 256 192 128 64 0 My TPS is 96, my WOT is 993 and 896+96 just happen to sum up to 992. Just perfect

Do you have a bunch of keys bundled to it? A friend of mine got immobiliser problems (with a car) that was solved by not having a sh!tload of other keys on the same keyring. Besides, the weight is not healthy for the ignition lock. Do you have another key to try?