raz

The resistance test is with sensor disconnected from bike. There is a three pin plug somewhere up along the cable: But Luhbo's test is better: If the pump runs a little time more after you stop cranking, or if you by other means detect that it does run during cranking, then this sensor is OK.

They came stock on carbed Sport 1100 and pre 1997 Daytonas.

Like you say, as with most things these days the beauty of EFI is not low cost of development, but low marginal cost of producing it. That is of course much less benefit for Guzzi than it is for Honda. I'm relatively young and unlike many others here, for me a carburettor is pure voodoo magic while EFI is simple as hell. For some reason, EFI seem to have entered the bike world for pollution reasons only (there are exceptions of course). This also means the producers have absolutely no incentive to make that EFI easily tunable to end-users, although the concept itself would allow for all sorts of end-user interfaces. In fact I think they need to show the opposite, like my (once existing) OEM sticker covering the ECU and proving no-one fiddle with it. If I ever get the chance I'll buy a 1100 Sport carb because that is a piece of work. It's the last and the greatest of the big carbed Guzzis. But I'll keep my injected one too.

Thanks. So if Guzzi had given numbers for Carbed Sport, Daytona RS and Sporti, they would all have different rake and trail despite the same frame, just because of the wheels and tires? No wait, the Daytona RS had 10 mm raised forks so maybe that was the same rake as Sporti, only lower ground clearance. And perhaps the carbed Sport's fork was longer?

I tried to look it up myself as I'm curious. But I more or less failed. The WHB only tells the wheelbase: Wheelbase: 1475 mm [WHB] Rake: 26° [unconfirmed, probably the carb Sport] Trail: 90 mm [same unconfirmed source] Fork length: 760 mm [WHB] Rear wheel is 160/60 or /70. The V11 is 170 or 180, right?

Welcome! Just remember that if 10 people mention a gearbox spring (or whatever) problem, while it's good to know, you need to keep in mind there may be thousands of people not having the problem - and thus not writing. Hm. The above may be my worst English sentence in years. I wont even bother trying to fix it

LOL. Thank God we don't have a man boobs thread

So where is a 1100 Sporti (pre V11) placed in a similar comparison? Wheel base? Rake? Length of stuff? I'm not a very fast rider but I really liked the effect of raising the forks 10 mm up the triple trees and then I really noticed it being cancelled when I went from 70 profile rear to 60. I'm usually not the kind of guy that would immediately notice such things. I'm now considering raising forks 10 mm more, but there is a ground clearance issue of course, that should be considered at least.

This may be the best alternative I've seen so far, Slavomir! Do you (or anyone here) have personal experience from it? Or know anyone that has?

Wot he said, plus if your wires are not red that is the problem. Guzzi plug wires shall be red. Any other color will foul your plugs. OK maybe that is not the problem but since you will replace those cables anyway, do choose red ones.

Makes me wonder why my brand new FBF pistons are sitting on the shelf... this winter I SHALL overhaul my heads and put those pistons in.

you've got the t-shirt?

You'll come back, Jens. You'll come back Thanks for your contributions. I'm glad Guzzitech.dk will continue in some form.

This thread mentions replacing seals: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=147544 and I'll try that Yamaha seals myself this winter. The instead-of-carb-thingy is called the throttle body. It's much simpler than a carb, it's just a throttle butterfly for air and an injector solenoid (controlled by the ECU) for the pressured fuel.

If we're talking about the timing sensor, some good info here: http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1844

I had the same sympthoms, at exactly 4000 rpm in 5th gear, but not at the same [ground] speed in 4th. It was subtle enough I only sensed it wearing ear plugs. It disappeared when I replaced most bearings in the gearbox but I'm not too sure it was actualy a bad bearing, it may have been just some kind of harmonic and not too serious. I've heard of several others sensing this too The above was the straight cut stock gearbox. Nowadays I have a Centauro gearbox on my Sporti. It has better ratios for my cruising needs (even more so as I switched to 60 profile rear) and it has helically cut gears so now I can actually hear the engine

My imprint says PF3C/00 3586AE (hard to read though) whatever that is worth. My bike is a 1997 but there are PO's so I'm not sure if my TPS is that old. I once removed it for checking/cleaning after reading such posts here and I was surprised but reliefed that it is properly sealed.

Mine too is complely sealed. No way to clean it and no reason to. I'd be a little worried if it had open slots.

But you sold your CARC

I told you to do that one month and three weeks ago, nag nag I have a feeling this was good news. Estimated cost for repair went down by 98%, that is my bet anyway.

You could try measuring resistance, it should be 680 ohms +/- 10%. Chances are it'll look fine though, since your problem is intermittent. While at it, clean the contacts. Try wiggling the cable near the sensor when you have starting problems (or wiggle if you have motor running and see if it dies). Check that the sensor body hasn't come loose from the engine block, it's seated at sub-millimeter distance from the phonic wheel inside.

Seems you are in true need for those extra ground straps everyone mentions. My indicators does not work w/o ignition, but I have a hazard flash switch and that one does.

Maybe you could try ultra-sound cleaning. I think it's pretty cheap so may be worth a try.

For what it's worth mine (Sporti) is a standard M16 (x1.5) thread. I would guess V11 is identical, but I'm not sure.