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Injector is Guzzi p/n 01530504, cost 388 Euro here. Also used on Ducatis (851/888, M900ie, SSie, ST2 etc.) and probably some cars too. It's called IW031 and native p/n is WFI191.

Dan M has relays? Maybe you mean Pyro Dan or John Ryland?

A wild guess is you need to click on OPTIONS at the top right of this thread. Then select Standard Display Mode (Edit: I was right but a little late )

I've been considering the same. I think gauge mounts are trickier than the headlight. Centauro front stuff will fit but is not easy to source. Someone said the V11 headlight bracket and stuff will fit the Sporti forks too. When you're done you will need to fix the rear too...

Cruising involves just a few cells for each speed/gear combination. Find out which cells (using Optimiser or computer log), and tweak them. My current leanest A/F target is 14.1 (lambda 0.96) and my mileage is similar to yours. I'm sure I could better mileage but for the moment I don't care, I just ride

I can't see that happen. Torquing the pinch bolts before the axle would be just wierd. Like tightening the lock nuts before setting valve clearance FWIW I heard of more than one Ducati rider over torquing the pinch bolts to a degree it actually caused the hollow axle to go oval

That's a beautiful pic so I sent it to my color printer, and only then I noticed that guy on the floor... bad hangover?

I made it through now. I do read German... sloooowly. Threads like that one is a good reason for excercising. Excersising. Dang I need to ex-er-size ingles too.

Ernst, that link is broken

My bike is parked in the centre of my carport and yet it's as wet as if it had been parked outside it

I settled for standard socket head 12.9 M8x20 in black from a hardware store specialized in fasteners. They were like €5 in TOTAL for 12 pcs

That was a great tip, thanks! For some reason I had never heard of him Seems to be lots of good info on his site, unfortunately in Swedish only. I have some reading to do!

Are all flow benches just sort of a vacuum cleaner and a flow meter? I wonder if you'd get different results with something that pulses the flow like a real engine.

This reminds me Greg mentioned building a flow bench. Any news, Greg?

If you mean there are breakpoints at, like, 600, 775, 950, 1100 I think it's just a waste of resolution. But if your ECU has a resolution of 32 or more columns, you may want to waste some. The map Cliff delivered with my ECU has the following: RPM 500 1100 1500 1801 SpkAdv 00 8.20 8.20 4.92 14.30 I guess this third column is the same thing but above idle, it keeps the idle from raising above 1100. So unless it renders back-kicks, maybe the 500 column could say 10-12 degrees for keeping it at 1100. My current map does neither though, and idle is rock steady without it: RPM 500 1100 1322 1520 SpkAdv 00 5.16 10.08 11.02 13.13

Depends on purpose. I once logged a very long session running open loop with an "unknown" map, then processed it to produce a "map" similar to the O2 target map, but showing actual reading instead of target. That was pretty useful and easy to correlate with where I thought changes were needed. Normally I guess short one-purpose runs are easier to grasp. Logging just the transition from idle to WOT could show you problems that the closed loop software is far too slow to fix, but since logging is pretty low resolution in time we may still miss things. Maybe Logworks is better for that purpose, but we'd need rpm input to it and ideally TPS too.

Just for your information most of us call them the pork chops, I guess no explanation is necessary

I think Foto's suggestion is a good one. You can easily jump the switch (or measure it) if you locate its connector block.

Coilbind. Coilbound? Hell. just crank it up until it the dogs look bothered

I think most times a failing injector would be stuck closed, but I suppose it can stuck open too, in your case intermittently. You could try swapping injectors left for right and see if the problem moves with them. That spark plug "shadow" phenonema is normal. For what it's worth you can easily get down to 5 liters/100 kms with a carefully tuned bike, 7 l/100 km is the worst figure I've ever had. But that has probably nothing to do with your problem.

+1 that is a good idea. And with a volt meter or test light you can check voltage in relay sockets too and follow the trace. Like, does the power relay socket provide 12V to the contacts? If this turns out to be a fried ECU (which is really the worst scenario among many) you should be able to find one on eBay or buy a My16M from Cliff Jefferies.

For ECU diagnostics, all you need is the Workshop Handbook. I think you already have it, otherwise there is a PDF linked from my signature. In short, you connect a diagnostic plug that is supposed to be strapped to the harness under your passenger seat, to the diagnostic connector located nearby, and turn on ignition. The LED located near the fuses will blink in sequences described in the WHB and that can tell various problems (like "error on left injector"). In this very case we're mostly interested in if it will talk at all... Yes, my other rant was just another (simpler and not as good) way to check if the ECU is "alive". I wrote that because your description about the kill switch worries me a little. If the ECU relay clicks immediately, your ECU does not seem to be in control. Hopefully that does not mean it's brain dead. Good luck!

To avoid confusion: note that this is an 1100 Sport, not a V11. It has no 30A fuse and it has a WM1.6 ECU. Other than that it's more or less the same as a V11. Dimitri, just concentrate on the pump and ignore spark. As long as the power relay (that drives the pump) don't engage, the spark and injectors are also without power. Since your pump doesn't prime we can ignore the crank sensor. You already swapped relays and checked fuses so there is not much left. One possibility is some internal fault in the ECU but let's hope that's not it. You should try the ECU diagnostics: The ECU will send some "morse code" blinks to the diagnostic LED. This might tell us some details but foremost it will tell us if the ECU is alive and kickin' or stone dead. If you remove the power relay and just listen to the ECU relay, it should NOT click (release) immediately when you turn off power or use the emergency switch, but 15 seconds later. If it releases immediately, it's unfortunately an indication of a bad ECU. But there are other possibilities of course. Like a bad relay socket, that is not unusual.

The Optimiser shows TPS (0-1023) in most of its screens. It also shows what map cell coordinate you are at (like 5,7). And O2 reading of course. In the Baro menu you will also be able to monitor oil temp and air temp in degrees Celsius and air pressure in mBar. Just buy it, it costs like a carbon fiber front sprocket cover My oil temp sensor sits in a valve cover. V11 sensors are more like a CHT sensor, sitting in the head. My air temp sensor is located behind front fairing. For very slow city traffic the best would be to have it inside the air box, but I'm not worried enough to move it. I avoid cities anyway.