raz

You are allowed to ride in other gears than 6th you know. 5000 rpm may not be the preferred cruising rpm for long relaxed rides, but it is pretty far from red line and I often ride more or less constantly in third gear (that's the 1:1 gear on my five speed) on curvy smallish roads. The engine sings at 5000 rpm, I believe it's happiest at that speed. FWIW my bike puts out well over 14V at any rpm except idle. I believe most people having charging problems should check for pretty basic stuff like grounding or relay problems.

The engine design is from 1967 or something. Frame is what, early 1990's? Forget all figures and just keep having a ball on it!

Nah, this weekend I just rode it for a change I've settled for earliest possible injection phasing without interfering with previous cycle. Seems best for my bike and I'm pretty sure I can't tune that better without a dyno. I did retro-fit the power booster though. Won't do any difference until my battery is very weak some day. Do you know what A/F you are running? Low 13's? Or closer to 14:1? I'm considering switching back from the K&N pods to the proper air box. The numbers suggest the pods are much worse than the air box, contrary to common belief. Several percent less fuel for same A/F. I need to confirm that, making no other changes.

Ratch, I have a vague memory we've been through this exact confusion before: The bolts are M6 (while the socket key is 5 mm) and the recommended standard torque is thus 10 Nm (7-8 lbft). This is the same bolt size as the valve covers. Other than that,

I second that. Last summer, after 20,000 kms without a trouble after replacing relays, my bike died on me while I was overtaking a good line of cars, leaving me in an awkward situation. It turned out the power relay had vibrated fully out of its socket! I pushed it in again and it died on me again on the same ride, after just 150 kms. Same relay off the socket again (and of course I was overtaking cars this time too ). While tweaking the connectors should be enough to fix that problem, I also applied some battery pole grease and strapped every relay down with cable ties.

I use high-end 60/55 bulbs like Philips "Extreme Power". 80% more light or so they say. Osram has something similar I think. The difference to a cheap crap bulb is huge.

thumbs up!

Try the lowest setting available, you don't really need a steering damper on this bike. A higher setting won't do much harm in speed (nor any good) but it will be a nuisance when maneuvering in garage or parking.

Sarcasm? We're only being helpful. Nitrogen adds to your unsprung weight!

I use 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and 1% argon. Maybe not the best but it is cheap for sure Seriously, I think it's like those Iridium spark plugs. I tried those. They had one big advantage: They last forever. But they are very expensive and I don't really see the point as they won't make the bike run better. If I run across a 5€ Nitrogen offer I might try it too but I expect similar conclusions.

Yup, that is the very same.

Finally I managed to get the perfect start we all want. Stone cold engine, first notch on fast idle lever, push starter button without touching throttle and it starts immediately and keeps running with no nursing at all. Hot engine, same but with no fast idle. Never misses a beat. I think what happened to do the trick was that I decided to be religious about the TPS settings. I've always used 150-160 mV base (31-33 on the Optimiser) but I used to cheat a little with the 378 mV idle setting (WHB spec for Sporti), using the idle screw instead of fixing the mixture. This time I set it at 378 mV (76-77 on Optimiser) and one half turn on bleeders. With engine running the TPS reads 96 so I use IdleTPS=96 in the ECU. Then I tweaked mixture in the idle cell, nothing else, until I had about 1100 rpm idle with a fully warm engine. For some reason this made wonders. I use the Prime and CrankBoost tables as Cliff delivered them, unmodified. I use 5 degrees SpkAdv at the 500 rpm column, 10 degrees at idle column. And TDCWhileCranking=1. Edit: My InjAdv for the lower left cells is 700, placing the injection start not long after previous valve close. Maybe that helps too.

For what's it worth I've had absolutely no problem with the "missing" tread warning. I think it's overexagerrated from people that keep repeating it without first hand knowledge.

good point

This is my previous Metzeler Z6 after 14,250 km. Very good condition (for the mileage), not much squaring. After this picture was taken I rode it another 1,500 km and then I painted my wheels so I replaced the tyre. At that time it was still barely road legal but there was no point in fitting it to the wheel again. I'm amazed they last so long compared to how good they perform.

I wonder if Frenchbob has a CARC named Serge now?

Well if it has a starter relay wired more or less like the V11, the answer is yes. If the lights doesn't have an own relay you should fix that as well. Apart from giving better light this will ensure you don't get side effects like overtaxing the starter relay (depending on what else is on it).

Cliff, will the Optimiser show boosted voltage?

Like I said it hooks on the bottom weld (the "ridge" or what should I call it) underside the tank. The air filter is a little in the way but I could hook it in front of the filter and then pull it backwards inbetween the filter and the tank to the right position. Sorry, hard to describe

Just for peace of mind, can you check with a timing light that the TDC is where the ECU thinks it is? I think it's odd that TDC ignition kicks back. Missing pulse is for the 15M/16M ECUs that have one sensor wheel with a couple of teeths missing that shows phase, instead of separate speed and phase sensors.

When I used them they hooked around the bottom weld of the tank. I use to remove the seat and loosen the fairing on sides of tank. Strap the tank protector around steering head (careful not to make it interfere with anything there) and rear tank mount. Then clamp it with the fairing along the sides. This also looks better than folding it out on top of fairing. The two side straps with hooks never was any good, and one of them fell off on a ride so I just ditched the other one. I've made over 10,000 kms without them with no problem. This is from guzzitech.dk - not clamped by fairing This is when clamped with fairing

Thanks for that write up. To compare with an OEM we still need to know where Cliff placed the 0% correction for pressure though. BTW everyone be aware when copying whole maps between platforms (better not doing that, just copy sections). The pressure line should be the same between P8 and 16M but different from the above, I didn't notice that until now. Another similar issue is the top "Config TDC=0x1600, CylOffs=270, PulsesPer=48", it's the same between 15M and 16M but different on P8. I have yet to understand what 0x1600 refers to.

Just undo your tank-suck fixes and it will shrink again

Just call them Reverse Cone Megaphones versus Reverse Cone Mufflers and everybody's happy. Or not? Maybe this is the new Oil Temp Sensor thread

Yes, I just meant it's not just Cliff's odd idea, and possibly it's the same in P8 and P7. Anyway if you manage to get it working with or without TDC=1 then all is fine. But if not, maybe fuel priming is the key.