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I agree with Tom but this bypass thing is very wierd. It should be very sensitive to those screws. Are you sure your sync nipples are closed, tight plugged or connected to each other with a hose that does not leak? Sorry if that is a stupid question.

Note that there are key pins (or what you call them) around the bolts so you need to lift the plate straight up from the box a couple of mm before you can move it forward and away. So you will probably need to remove most of the engine and gearbox bolts anyway.

I have no hard facts whatsoever but I'll give it a shot anyway. Just leaving it that way is very likely a bad idea as the ECU will think it's stupidly lean all the time, leading to overly rich mixture. If the sensor is detachable from the harness (I'd be surprised if it isn't) that will hopefully make the ECU aware it shouldn't try to read it. Try that and see how it works out. Welding a bung for the sensor should be quick and inexpensive though.

Just to avoid confusion, this is a carb Sport, hence the less number of relays. The so called headlight relay is Guzzis nomenclature for the relay that powers lots of stuff from key-on, including the headlight. It should be called "main relay" or something. It's not a proper headlight relay. Other than that I don't know. Is there voltage to the solenoid when pressing starter button? I guess you found this one: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sch..._Sport_1100.gif Oh yeah, note that the relay sockets are very crappy too, at least on my Sporti.

That whirring sound is wierd. Did you try if the "emergency switch" mutes it? Maybe it's not a motor at all but vapor lock bubbling, which explains both issues.

I'm not sure how a native English speaking interprets the quote but I read it as it would have an average of more or less recent data. I'm almost certain that is just incorrect phrasing, surely it's just some preset default values. You could probably get away fine with defaulting to 20 degrees for air temp and say 60 for oil temp. The engine would be startable (though not easily) and then run pretty well, but rich, once at working temp. Yeah, especially the air temp sensor and especially in warmer countries than mine. I guess there's more than one bike out there with a faulty temp sensor (or even more likely bad cables and connections). I think later Guzzis (carcs) would throw up an engine warning light of some sort so you know you have reason to investigate. The Sporti has a crude test light but it's under the seat and only temporarily connected for testing. The V11 doesn't have one at all as shipped, right? But it does have the test light connector. Anyone with a cheap ohm meter can test the sensors themselves though. If it's not shorted and not open circuit, it's probably just fine. Best measured at the ECU connector, so you measure it including cables and connectors.

+1 (on both halves of that sentence) Ardbeg 17 y.o was sold a while here. Damn that was a fine whisky. And never ever ice, just a little water. Or nothing.

The text I quoted is all there is. And it is probably a poor translation from Italian. Averaging the phase sensor would be a neat trick

I'm not so sure about that but there is a separate thread now

OK, here's a starter Quote from V11 WHB: "If a signal from a sensor is interrupted, the ECU acquires its average value. This allows the motorbike to be used (even if it is not in perfect working condition)" It's not 100% clear so we have lots of room to guess, argue and agree.

That sounds like fun. I for one would appreciate a little presentation and some pictures if you'd care to share. Mmm.. a brand new thread with only one single page!

That is precisely what I intended to say, Dan talks about the sensor itself. Did you? I did start by asking what charts you refered to. Are you still talking about sensitivity, and not accuracy? We have been shown that we can move the point of "largest slew" with the bridge resistor, but we can't move the point where the sensor is accurate.

Top notch

What charts? As G2G demonstrated in his latest chart, you can choose a bridge resistor that maximizes the voltage resolution to whatever point in the range you like. If you like it to be at 0 degrees, chose the same value as the thermistor itself has at 0 degrees, namely 9.750 ohms. Now you have the greatest voltage slew at that range. But that does not mean you altered the sensor accuracy or sensitivity! Chosing the right resistor is important, but it doesn't negate the need to choose the right thermistor. If magnifying a low resolution photo, you'll just get mosaic! Oh, and G2G made a mistake (or baited) in post 303. We all make mistakes.

We tried discussing FAG bearings on Wildguzzi or Guzzitech a while ago and that was not allowed either This is @#$#! stupid

Regarding at what temperature the thermistor is most accurate I'm not sure if you or Dan is [this grammatical incident beats me. You are, he is, you and he are, you or he... are?] wrong, or both. I'm leaning towards you are both right but are looking at in from different views I think it's Accurate Enough [tm] for air and oil temps in a Guzzi pump that is, if it's correctly mounted... Ideally my air temp sensor should be mounted INSIDE the air filter box, not near the triple clamp. And the oil temp sensor should sit in the sump, immersed in oil, or be called something else.

Same story here with the speed bumps. I hate them more than cameras. The bus drivers' union have successfully decreased the number of speed bumps in my neighborhood though. I can imagine what a bus driver thinks about speed bumps. There's also this roundabout hype. Roundabouts are excellent when used with sense, but this is getting silly. But I still prefer that over speed bumps. Roundabouts do slow down traffic and they are pretty much self-regulating. They even decrease the number of red lights.

In Sweden they are put everywhere except where they would do any good (like outside schools). The govt really considered having the system calculate your speed between two cameras too but they decided not to, for now...

You mean injection timing? Cliff's InjAdv is degrees BTDC [of compression] that the injection pulse ends. This is confirmed by Cliff in post 144 and 157. Your chart shows 303˚ATDC. That equals (720-303=) 417˚BTDC so it is the same as an InjAdv of 417. Counting the other direction, an InjAdv of 575 would be (720-575=) 145˚ATDC in that tool of yours.

Cliff delivered my map with CoilCharge1=2700 so I expect that to be fine for a 16M

I believe it would run very rich. If the sensor is disconnected, the bridge resistor will pull the signal to the ceiling at 5V. The ECU will either interpret that as your engine is colder than -40°C or, hopefully, trigger some kind of fault mode and disregard it. See, we can keep this thread running

For a limp home mode it could assume a very low throttle and you'd have to try matching it... but they probably don't. The MyECU, if anyone is interested, can be put in sensorless (meaning temps and pressure) mode by flipping a dip swicth inside it. AFAIK there is no automatic cancelling of out-of-bounds inputs. A separate switch will disable the lambda sensor(s) so it just runs open loop. I tried to get Cliff to implement sanity checking for the lambda sensor input, so it would go open loop by itself if the signal goes insane, but I got no response.

My impression is that the Weber-Marelli components are not bad at all (most if not all problems we have discussed are implementation flaws by Guzzi) and since the ECUs do know when a sensor is broken I would be very surprised if there isn't some error handling (they just need to assume a temperature, not much more to it). But it's just my guess. The only sensor you really can't do without is the phase/rpm sensor.

It's mounted through a little hole in one of the valve covers. I guess it gets an occasional splash of oil but when that doesn't happen, it has to settle for the temperature of the air in there. It also gets a considerable amount of cooling from outside but that effect may be more due to the whole valve cover being cooled than the sensor body - and maybe the oil does get a little cooler too. As long as I don't ride in rain or very cool weather, it pretty much agrees with my oil dipstick thermometer. Theoretically I think it's much worse than the V11 solution but I have no practical reason to alter it.

30729331 is used both for air and oil temp sensors on 1100 Sport, I guess that is what G2G meant. Maybe Guzzi found out it was a bad idea, I don't know. No other model I know of used that for the oil.