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Here are the voltages1) and, more importantly, what the ECU reads2). The ADC column is what the AD converter should end up with. It's an integer between 0 (0 volts) and 1023 (5 volts). °C ohms mV ADC -40 100950 4927 1009 -30 53100 4863 996 -20 29120 4755 974 -10 16600 4586 939 0 9750 4333 887 10 5970 3996 818 20 3750 3571 731 25 3000 3333 683 30 2420 3087 632 40 1600 2581 529 50 1080 2093 429 60 750 1667 341 70 525 1296 265 80 380 1011 207 90 275 775 159 100 205 601 123 110 155 468 96 125 100 313 64 1, 2) this is based on the assumptions the ECU use a 1K5 fixed bridge resistor and a 10 bit ADC, like MyECU. I do not know for sure if that is the case.

So assuming 2,700 µs is short enough not to cook stuff even at sustained near-redline speeds, we could in theory use 5,400 µs at 4,000 rpm or 10,800 µs at 2,000 rpm with the same need for power dissipation. Would that be of any benefit? Also, we could use 20,000 µs or more for cranking (my map use 6,000) with less stress [over time] than the above, but that is probably way beyond the point there is more pain than gain. And the power is drawn from the battery while cranking... Just thinking loud. I don't think I'm on to something

I thought it was an interesting discussion. Hey, anyone not wanting to read it can skip this thread!

Is this true for most of us, both MyP8 & My 15/16M owners? If I understand it right, a higher number is better (more powerful spark) but will put more stress on the coil, and a too high number may destroy it. I wonder how one could try out a higher number. Measuring temperature of coil after some running at high rpm? Or does the coil manufacturer specify a limit?

I guess you're thinking of Nigel's map (which I posted). FWIW I have always used TDCWhileCranking=1.

To elaborate a little on Hubert's concise summary, the ECU considers "we are cranking" not by sensing the starter or anything like that, but only the fact the engine does rotate but makes less than 500 rpm. So when for a split second (just when it comes alive) it runs at say 600 rpm, the (0,0) cells are used, not the Prime line nor the TDCWhileCranking. So a high ignition advance in that cell can still kick the engine back to a full stop. Also, I figure when the engine is idling and the engine for one reason or the other go down a little too much in speed, a good selection of values (both spark and fuel) in the (0,0) cells will hopefully help it to recover. These are just a couple of thoughts, I haven't had time or need to experiment much with this yet.

In Ralph we trust

Mine is an older much like this Alpha No6 but in plain red matching the bike perfectly: I got it with the bike. The newer bags often have straps so you can use it as backpack off the bike, I'd like that. Yes, I loosen the screws above the rocker covers and slip the protector between the fairing and the tank. Pretty neat once done. Once I rode with a helmet in the bag, but I almost didn't reach the handles.

Thanks, I'll try wrapping. Unfortunately I've made some other things this winter so I wont be able to tell if the wrapping itself did any good. Anyway it's more for the looks, just like the pods. Maybe I'm stating the obvious but it's fairly easy to swap the injectors left for right and see if the leaner condition moves with it.

I miss the Leroy quote. Damn that was funny You know who you are.

Not the yellow ones, they are unregulated AC. Connect it to the regulators main output terminal instead.

With a little patience you can get a brand new protector, even for a Sporti, from eBay. They are announced now and then but not right now it seems. Bags should be there all the time. I think mine is about 30L fully expanded (zipper expansion) and it has a transparent map pocket on top. Search for 'bagster guzzi' and 'baglux guzzi' Here's an old picture of my bike with tank protector. I have to remove the seat and loosen the fairing to strap the protector on. A little tedious but the good thing about it is it sits better, clamped by the fairing.

The bags are the same for (almost?) all bikes. I have a red tank protector & bag for my Sporti, it's a very good solution. BTW the tank protector is not leather, it's a good imitation (so it is not damaged by rain!). The bag is real leather. I cannot spot the difference really.

Motomonster, do you know, or think, your wrapping did any good for performance? I'm planning on wrapping my headers - mostly, if not solely, for the hot-rod look (well if it turns out ugly I'll just remove it again). It's cheap and it's not chrome - suits me fine. I did some heavy googling and most seem to think it will do very little for a N/A engine.

I was only refering to the OilT line since Guzzi2Go and others were drawing conclusions from it. I'm not sure if you did and I don't care, it was just a friendly remark. I do disagree that an air gap or an added resistor in series will ever be an optimal solution, but I don't object to your experiments. To each his own

13:1 or slightly leaner should be sane, although I tend to listen to the engine and also try how it reacts to a quick roll of the throttle. I've seen tables for "correlation between CO and O2". I'm not sure that is an exact science but if it is, 13.2:1 corresponds to a CO of 3.5.

Ah, yes I failed to see the actual question. So these values let the ECU know the absolute pressure in mBar from the sensor voltage. Then there is of course some kind of mapping, or rather fixed formula, between this pressure and how it affects air density, which in term affects how to enrich or lean the mixture to compensate for this. I guess these formulas are not visible because it wouldn't make sense to change them - they are just plain old physics laws.

Unfortunately you can't use Cliff's MyECU maps for drawing conclusions about how Guzzi developed the stock V11 sensor & map, regardless of how much snow is outside your window Someone, probably Dave, posted screenshots from Tuneboy somewhere long ago on this very forum, one showing an oil temp map (called Engine Temp Trim in Tuneboy) that keep going negative, and ends with -18.8% at 125°C. I believe it was said to be the stock map. I'm not bored enough to try finding it but I do have copies of the screenshots, dated dec 2007.

It is for barometric pressure and/or altitude mapping. There is no difference, you just compensate for air pressure regardless of if it varies because of weather or altitude. I used the Optimizer mBar display as a rough indication of relative altitude when I crossed the alps. A 10 mBar change means about 100 m. The real formula is much more complex but this gives a ballpark figure.

I don't get why anyone would need a six speed box in a street Guzzi. My five speed is higher geared than the V11 box (240 km/h at 8,000 rpm with a 70 profile tyre) and I still don't need (or even want) less difference between gears. Having lots of gears is a compensation for lack of torque, no? I don't get the car industry's point either. Why the heck would I want a six speed manual box with the high end engines? That is where they are offered, not with the low end engines, where they actually could be of benefit. WTF? But that's just me. Maybe I lack some understanding. Hm, sorry for drifting away from the topic... Unfortunately you can't get spares for the TB assembly, only a complete assembly for a ridiculous amount of money. But the linkage should not be too difficult to build from more or less standard parts. Or suitable car parts. I heard, for example, some Volvo and Mercedes cars has ball joint sockets that can replace the plastic socket the OEM features. The fast idle you can live without. Not that it's that hard to fix either. A clutch handle from an 1100 Sport or Centauro (or Cali I guess) will provide you with the lever, while still being cable clutch handles. Fuel pump and pressure regulator (3 bar/44 psi) is standard parts you can find anywhere. A new regulator is more expensive than I would have guessed, but finding a used one shouldn't be too hard. A Harley PF4C TPS will fit like OEM and while not gaving exactly the same characterstics, it will work fine. It's a LOT cheaper than Guzzi OEM (which is a PF3C).

I've tested a little. I can report it works as a charm with OpenOffice too. Very well made, it just works with no effort from the user. Paste, edit, copy back. For operations that suits Excel this is a real time saver. Thanks again!

Searching this forum you can even get a graph of it http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=137372

Oh. Right. Well, I was the first to deny it so... it wasn't me!

OK guys here is the Excel spreadsheet: MyECU EzyEdit.xls I haven't got time to test it at all except it does clear my antivirus program and it seems to load fine in OpenOffice 3.0 too. And it does look well made. I'm looking forward to check it out this evening. Thanks Richard!