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Awesome! I had similar ideas but lacked the skills. I'll PM you so we can sort out the file hosting.

A soccer mom. It is always a soccer mom. Stochastic driving while looking at children in the rear seat and talking in a mobile phone at the same time. All rear-view mirrors adjusted for doing make-up. If one ever gets me, I will consider it 100% my own fault, for not taking enough precautions.

If anyone missed it, here is that pirate theory in writing: http://www.venganza.org/ Can you imagine ANYTHING that you can't support with quotes from the 'net?

It wouldn't be sensational if it does. I believe most modern cars do. Each time Volvo decided to upgrade my car EFI software when servicing it, it ran like crap (especially at idle) for hundreds of kms, once more like a 1000 kms.

I believe any piggyback solution (like the PCIII) is unable to change the temperature compensation tables. Anything that actually alters the maps inside the 15M ECU can do it, like Tuneboy, Directlink and whatever they are called. With Cliff's MyECU you have full control too.

I'll try experimenting with the timing this spring. At idle, for a starter. If OEM is constant about 525 I guess that is a good figure for cruising. When I work with my maps I usually switch between the ECUController program, OpenOffice Calc (freeware Excel clone) and a good editor like PSPad (freeware UltraEdit-like editor). Not to mention some pretty powerful perl scripts, as well as improvised one-liners, under Cygwin perl. I'm going to switch to running under Linux as I've heard the ECUController works fine under Wine.

Are you sure this is not just a variant of "tuning by misadjusting the TPS sensor"? Just a thought. I have a pretty firm opinion that the sensor should have as good thermal coupling as practically possible, and (here comes the punch line) if this detunes the engine the map should be adjusted. Probably including - but not limited to - the correction table for "oil" temp. But, hey, it's winter. I'll be happy to discuss it further. Besides, I don't have strong feelings against tuning by misadjusting the TPS sensor, if you can't afford a remap. In fact it makes much more sense than having a temperature sensor isolated from the heat it was supposed to sense. And even varying that isolation until it seems to perform well at the time Just my and don't let me stop you from wonderful trial'n'error

The bank robbery is hilarious

That sounds like fun. I'm a garage junkie, if I can help in any way I'd be happy to stuff my laptop and a six-pack of Czech beer in my tank bag and pay you a visit this spring. Unless it rains continuosly from late February to July of course... Anyway I'm looking forward to your report!

E85 versus environment and any politics regarding it is completely off-topic in this thread, please. Same goes for the destroys-all-rubber-and-whatnot discussion. I fear pointless and endless arguing and it has nothing to do with MyECU. I just want to test MyECU's ability to adapt the map to new conditions and getting a feel for tuning ignition manually. I really don't expect it to be better (or worse for that matter) for the environment or my fuel budget. I do expect a very slight increase in power but it will hardly be worth it except for the joys of experimenting. I could do this with racing fuel or whatever but E85 is cheaper and sold everywhere here.

Yes, but we were discussing replacing the fuel pressure regulator. That would likely be cheaper and simpler than replacing the injectors. I just don't know if there are any downsides. This will most likely be a limited time experiment so I'm not sure I would like a 15:1 CR. I wonder what CR my flexifuel car has. I guess ignition should be advanced. A proper E85 engine should have a knock sensor (or better means) I guess. A Guzzi V11 engine is probably one of the worst candidates available for doing an E85 conversion

Here is a thread about overhauling the Bitubo, with or without a rebuild kit: http://www.morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3170 I plan to try it (myself, without caring about the nitrogen gas) on my spare one. It has at least half an inch of "slack" in the movement when you push it by hand and turn direction. The one currently mounted is better but has the same tendency. The failure mode you describe sounds pretty scary and such scenarios makes me hesitate overhauling it myself. But I think I'll give it a try and decide later if I dare mounting it. Oh, and this may be obvious to you or not, but don't be too worried about using the bike without the damper while you source a new one. Some people toss it away just on principle. I prefer keeping it, but I rode a lot last summer without it, including a track day. No problems.

Survival of the fittest comes to mind

In another thread (which is pretty inspiring) he mentioned it's Öhlins from a Honda CB1300 with home-made triple clamps. Well done, Kuan.

I'm not 100% sure but I always thought the Sporti/Daytona RS and Centauro bodyworks are interchangable with very little problems. I've read (I think at the cog) about people swapping between them. But that is swapping ALL of them. You probably can't use the Sporti tank and the Centauro seat. I have considered removing the fairing from my Sporti. The problem is that unlike the V11 Lemans, the headlight and clocks are not moving with the handlebars. Maybe the easiest way to go is to get Centauro headlight and clocks as it all will fit on the triple clamps with no mods. A V11 headlight would be even nicer and shouldn't be a problem. For the rear end, I have yet to come up with a (more or less) bolt-on solution except maybe molding a copy of the OEM rear fairing and modify it (removing the frisbee ass). I don't know if a V11 rear would fit, that would be interesting. FWIW, here is a picture of my bike without the fairing. It looks very different naked. Just imagine a proper headlight and clocks and all is set.

That was my point: They took a coolant temperature sensor, mounted it as a cylinder head temp sensor and dubbed it an oil temp sensor. You just gotta love them!

I have considered that too. I have no idea if there are any downsides. I'm seriously considering doing a full season on E85 only and see how the map ends up and how it affects power and mileage, but my current maximum flow rate wont suffice at WOT. I'll overhaul my heads first though. I'm planning to raise CR from 9.5 to 10.5, I guess that is still a moderate figure and shouldn't hurt anything.

I think the V10's had the brass sensor, and Cali, but not the 1100 Sporti. It has a, theoretically, even worse solution than your air gap: The sensor sits high in the LH valve cover, with a bare NTC inside that sometimes happens to get some oil slushed upon it. It has plastic housing. On the other hand I've never had any problems that had me suspecting that sensor. But I've been running aftermarket chips (and now a MyECU) ever since I bought it. Guzzi call it "oil temp sensor", not cylinder head temp sensor. That goes for both Sporti and V11. With our primitive EFI systems I think air temp is much more critical than oil temp for getting the mixture right. Oil temp is mostly needed for some boost while the engine is cold. Then again you may have OEM temperature maps or experiences that contradict this. I have no idea why. It's a Guzzi OTOH, if they really meant it to be just an oil temp sensor... why oh why did they not just mount a fool proof oil temp sensor in the sump instead of trying to morph it with a CHT sensor? I guess what we got is a mix of different ideas that Guzzi tried, that ended up in a mess. The parts involved are what happened to be available from their suppliers (In the Sporti case, the oil temp sensor is exactly identical to the air temp sensor

No, the MyECU can not drive the Bosch sensor on its own. A naked Bosch sensor is not that easy to interface. Also, the LC-1 actually makes the Bosch better than its original specs because (if I recall correctly) LC-1 replaces the static factory calibrations with its own, which you can calibrate anytime in free air. I have varied between connecting the heater power to the power relay (like the fuel pump) versus just a key-on relay. I think the latter is better for several reasons, one being the heater power is also LC-1 power, and you need it powered for programming or calibrating it. Currently I use the original "head light relay" (which is a misleading name), but that would not be advisable unless you put separate relays for the head light, which I had already done.

I think that is cool in its own way. Imagine Öhlins forks with gaiters... maybe they'd last longer!

Several sources mention "Contitech Syncroforce CXP STD 640-S8M-20 with 80 teeth", I'm not sure how correct that is.

I never figured out why there is a concept of starting bid versus reserve. What is the fargin' point?

If I go the easy way and use the Convert cam, it should calm the engine down a bit I guess. Isn't that similar to what Pete calls the lawnmower cam? I have to admit I've been looking at photos of your bike many times (first at Wildguzzi a year ago IIRC when searching for Convert info) and what you have done is probably part of my inspiration. It looks damn good and I imagine it's the ultimate tourer (for wierdos like us anyway). If I manage to buy a complete Convert in good shape I'll probably keep the engine as-is though, and just do some minor café racer mods.

At http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html you can find various Guzzi schematics thanks to Carl Allison, and hopefully the 2004 V11 Sport Catalytic is a correct one for you.