raz

They use Lechler brand and here are some models' paint codes: http://moto-guzzi.motoeuropa.it/moto/guzzi...-guzzi-1986.pdf Apparently the late "Sport Corsa" (model year 1998) used a different red from the earlier (carbed as well as injected). I think the Corsa always had black stripes too, like its ancestor the 850 Lemans. Carb and 1997 Sporti: Lechler 142F/65202 (Guzzi code 107, "rosso") 1998 Sport Corsa: Lechler 143A/65576 (Guzzi code 109, "rosso Guzzi") The various Daytona models has varied between both of these too.

My bad!

Stating the obvious: Depending on what maintenance is being performed, a correct fuel pressure (3 bar/45 psi) may be vital. It seems a generic one may cost $100 though. I just checked, I thought they were cheaper.

+1 And there are lots of places already called Paris...

I was gonna say water in fuel line, but you replaced them so that's not it. Maybe a good dose of injector cleaner and just ride around (or idle) on the one cylinder for a while will cure it? Measure the injector with an ohm meter, should be low resistance (12 ohms). You can also connect a 6V battery directly to it (for very short periods) and listen to it, maybe even exercise it enough to start working.

Wouldn't lightening the piston and con-rod ruin the balance? This reminds me of http://www.kompressor-guzzi.de/kguzzi.htm - I love those torque graphs

Please don't ever cross-post in several subforums. It's very annoying and you are not likely to receive more or better answers. Good luck with the seat though

I got tempted to search for production stuff and found this: http://www.conleyprecision.com/609.htm I want one! It starts at $5,295 though and optionally another $1,495 for a supercharger. It's 100cc, imagine a gocart with a supercharged V8

Actually Pyro Dan sells the switches too: http://www.dpguzzi.com/switch.htm and it's five bucks including shipping. This one is waterproof and dustproof sealed. But before buying one: do you here the click sound when activating the lever? If not, it may just be a little dislocated. Just loosening the screws a little, I could adjust mine. The switch button is pushed in when the handle is NOT pulled. That's not what comes first to mind (but completely logical on a second thought). This means when you adjust the physical location of the switch, it should be pushed in just as the handle is fully out. The distinct click sound makes it an easy task.

I would have guessed it was a quote from Pete Roper

An educated guess is it means End Of Injection, telling us the values are trailing edge of injector pulses as opposed to leading edge which is common too. So the short answer is yes.

I had a newish battery that was damaged from over-torquing the terminals. Apart from that the battery was in great shape. Note the sympthoms: I could charge it to 100%. I could drive the full beam headlight no problem. Measuring the voltage (still driving the headlight) indicated AOK, as in 12.8 volts. But when I pressed the starter it just clicked (repeatedly, like a sleepy ringer). So I measured voltage (at the terminals) WHILE cranking. It went from 12.8 volts all the way down to 4 point something! As soon as I let go of the starter button it was up at 12.8 again. Unfortunately the Hawker batteries have unintuitively weak terminals, they are M6 but if you torque them as you use to torque M6, they might break. This breakage will be internal to the battery and cause the above scenario but you can't detect it otherwise. I had only one option: replace the battery and obey the torque limits. And cry a little, cause these batteries are not cheap

Consider yourself lucky! Join the cog forum too if you haven't already, for some model (engine) specific info

I don't see why not. I got my bodge point just for screwing up. Maybe we should have kludge points too

Aha... I didn't know the P8 use two different pickups. Maybe there is some borderline timing with the MyP8 that doesn't apply to My15/16M. Or maybe it's a software bug. I'm pretty sure My15M and My16M use the same software (as far as I know they are logically the same except for the built-in pressure sensor on the 15M and different form factors and connectors) but maybe the MyP8 has its own software version, taking care of these separate pickups. I have no idea how many MyP8 Cliff has made, nor if he has his own vehicle for R&D on that one. I know for sure my My16M beats the crap of my WM1.6 in drivability despite the latter also having a custom made map. At first I had a little of the problems you describe but it was cured after I got the map and TPS setting right. Now the WM1.6 is up to par (not better I think) with the MyECU at a 0-200 km/h high-rpm drag-race. At all other situations the MyECU is way better.

Converting maps between ECUs is easy so I disagree it would be nearly from scratch. On the other hand you will likely benefit from fine tuning as ECUs behave differently, for instance when interpolating.

Just remember that in a modern version of Easy Rider, they wouldn't ditch their watches Over here all locked phones can be unlocked for a fee. I'm not sure if it's due to regulation. Also, there are sites on the Internet offering cheap unlock regardless of what your operator wants or permits. I haven't tried them though.

I Google-slipped and stumbled over another alternative: http://www.epicycle.com.au/electronics.htm It's a replacement ECU. I don't know much about it. It seems very expensive. Edit: it seems it only comes as replacement for P8 and 16M so not suitable for V11.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt ... by accident. My oil cooler hose (cooler mounted low on the sporti) snapped from its banjo in Nürnberg last summer. In a matter of seconds, it drained the sump from all oil in a hard jet straight down, and it ended up on my rear tyre. Normally there is no way in hell I would see the idiot light behind the fairing, but like a miracle I just happened to look down at my GPS and actually saw the oil light turn on. Clutch in, engine off, and I thought "I have no idea what's up but I may have oil on my tyre". Turned out I had. To add to my luck I had just left the Autobahn and was going some 70 km/h on a main road in the city. I braked with front only and gently turn right at an exit. And hooooly cow where is my rear. That was some serious drifting. But I did not bite the tarmac. Bike was packed with full gear and I was very impressed with how it acted. This is my excuse for the off-topic trip: the Sporti is not a bad bike, it's just heavy. Scaringly, the day before I was doing serpentine roads over the Alps in rain and a couple of days before that I was trashing it on Nürburg Ring That hose had a recall in several parts of the world. I don't know if that was applicable in Sweden but I know (now) my hose had not been replaced.

Thanks Cliff. See guys, I was right In the meantime, I found a very interesting forum at http://www.efi101.com/forum/ Searching that forum for, for example, "timing OR phasing OR advance AND injection" yields several very interesting threads with various good information on the subject. And different opinions of course. And also every possible way to express ignition advance, with 0 degrees at any TDC or elsewhere, counting forward or back and sometimes using a negative sign. But most often it's clearly stated which notation is used. And Cliff's notation is not uncommon. Some examples: http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1074 http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1341 http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2138 http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3954 Most people on that forum seem to say we should inject with valve open (when possible) while some expresses benefits of ending it earlier for various reasons. It seems to depend on size of injector and other things. There are more than one mention of 280° [and they use Cliff's notation] as a good starting point but they are not talking Guzzi engines of course. Several posts indicate that ignition injection advance can make a BIG difference in torque but only on low throttles (like 5% duty cycle).

This one: Now I'm confused again . I thought it was all clear now (not reading too much into that 300 degree wording). Cliff needs to clarify his clarification?

We are (or I am) talking about how the MyECU handles InjAdv, regardless of what is more or less common notation. This is what Cliff said again: It's a little confusing that he says 300 is before inlets opens, but I take it he must mean 0° is the TDC at ignition. And we are counting backwards, as in advance, so 360° is the overlap and 470° is when exhaust valves are max open. And 525° is even earlier, when exhaust valves are still opening. As I read him, we can take MotoGuzznix' chart and just reverse the degree heading, so it starts with 720 and ends with 0. Do you read it differently?

You mean 520 before tdc = 200 after tdc, right? Or am I missing something?

That is great to know, I didn't even know I could change the O2 target that way So I did a little spreadsheet m@sturbation. These are all calculated at 525° ignition advance: At 1000 rpm idle, I have a pulsewidth of about 4100 µs including deadtime. While injecting, the engine will rotate 25°. Thus the injector will be open between to 170° and 195° in Motoguzznix' chart. At 4000 rpm and about half-open throttle, the pulsewidth is 11500 µs. Injection will take place during 276° of rotation, starting at 639° in the chart (just when the intake valve closes on the previous stroke) and continuing up to 195°. At WOT and close to the rev limiter at 8000 rpm, the pulsewidth is 12300 µs, or 590° of rotation. The injector opens at 325° (about when the intake opens on the previous cycle) and stays open until 195°. This is very interesting but I don't really know what to make out of it . The last case is pretty interesting. No, all three are. The injector dead time will be significant at higher rpms. I have it set at 800 µs at 13V which is more or less a guess. At idle, this corresponds to just 5° but at 8000 rpm it takes 38° out of the 590°, scewing the above a little. I'd think the InjAdv should benefit from being lowered towards 360 at high rpms. Just from gut feeling. But maybe it doesn't matter much. And maybe I have no idea really.

Thanks for clearing this up. That's quite different from what we thought but 525 happens to end up in almost the same spot in Motoguzznix' table, at 195 degrees. And this ENDS thing will often make quite a difference of course. This is interesting even if there aren't huge amounts of hidden horses. I think I need to calculate some graphs visualizing timing. Like "milliseconds per degree rotation" and "ms per revolution", for various rpms. It's a pity we can't tune the InjAdv while running. As far as I remember it's neither in the Optimizer or the ECUControl program, right? Testing how idle reacts to various values would be very interesting. I want my own brake dyno for christmas. And a 5-gas. OK, Santa?