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Having a proper regulator would be more kosher but generic in-line regulators are more expensive than I initially thought: They seem to be the order of 100-150 USD. But you can probably get one pretty cheap at a breaker - it seems 3 bar is a common pressure for cars too. I too have had thoughts of making a test tank (btw thanks Pierre for sharing ideas) but I don't want to spend lots of money on this.

Well done Tom and thanks for the excellent write up!

That would be Darwin Olympics...

According to Ryland3210, that is true for stock relays and Omrons, but not GEI. They are only 25A inrush. They will work fine but you will never know for how long.

I agree with Cliff but you said you checked the Solenoid already. But this made me think of another thing: The Starter Relay must be capable of a tremendous current rush on the NO contacts when the solenoid is activated. While most people seem to have better success with GEI relays than with the Siemens ones, the GEI's are actually speced for only half that inrush current. I currently use a stock Siemens relay for that one while my other ones are GEI. If I ever replace them again I will use Omrons all over. Did you try the never ending relay round robin dance?

Take the whole starter apart, it's a one beer job. Descriptions are linked somewhere around here, among others there's an excellent beemer forum article about it. Actually the only instruction you need is that you can pry those small rivets apart like they're not there, and you don't need to replace them afterwards. Some have found the permanent magnets let go from its glue. That's fixable (at least worth a try - if you get it right it will be better than a new Valeo). Others have had success just cleaning it. I cleaned mine and beefed up the ground straps and haven't had a problem since.

I believe they are better done by feel but I think a standard spec would be like 20-25 Nm unlubed (15-19 lbft) since they are M8 in alu.

Cool. Looking forward to more pics when fitted! And I hope you have a good idea what to buy her?

Damn, I thought I had stopped buying stuff for my bike... I really feel like getting a Quat-D now. Very nice pics, especially the third in your first post. It reminds me of this pic of my bike with no exhausts: Ever since I took this and realised how good it looks compared to when exhausts are mounted, I've had thoughts about making an MGS01-like exhaust, or getting a Quat-D.

The Quat-D looks really nice on a Sporti. Was it just plug'n'play or did you have to modify anything?

I have a Sporti but have yet to try a V11. I raised my fork legs 10 mm in the clamps and that made a significant difference to the better. This was when using a 70 profile rear tyre (as speced). Later on I replaced the rear tyre with a 60 profile (as speced for Daytona RS, same frame and forks) and that negated the effect of raising the forks so I'm about to raise them another 10 mm for a total of 20 mm. Another thing, just in case you forgot about it, you should check the setting of the steering damper. I ran mine at highest damping for quite a while and when I eventually realised that and put it at the lowest damping instead, it felt like a tremendously lighter bike, especially in low speed and just pushing it around when parking. Everything is relative... Actually you may want to check the steering damper as well as the steering bearings for malfunction in case you haven't already. The latter can cause all sorts of weird effects if something is not right.

A PCIII can't possibly change your rev limiter, but a custom chip or map in the ECU can. I'm fairly sure your rev limiter can't just "stop kicking in", it must have been altered. Are you sure you have run into it earlier, at lower revs?

That is interesting. I have a theory: Before doing this you had a much more fluctuating system voltage at lower revs. The injectors will react to that, lower voltage means slower opening. You always have a lag (typically in the order of one millisecond) between the electrical pulse and actually squirting fuel. This is called "injector dead time" and is compensated for. The ECU should have a compensation table for dead time vs voltage, called "battery compensation" or something like that. If this is well done, the effects should be small so maybe the OEM ECU has a poorly implemented compensation. I haven't found any specification for our injectors but typically there can easily be an added lag of 200-400 ms if voltage goes down a couple of volts. Uncompensated, this can make up for a 5-10% change in mixture at those revs.

:thumbsup: Nice!

http://www.google.co...itary+victories

A relative of mine has a GW. I recently tried just raising it from sidestand on non-level ground (so it had some extra angle). Man, that was heavy. I haven't had the guts to ride it yet. I'm sure it's OK as long as you just ride it ahead but any maneuvering in awkward situations would be tough for a guy like me: I'm just 70 kg...

You finally got that stick out and... what? Was there still the same level? Maybe it's just your pressure sensor acting up (well one can make a wish).

Congrats, I believe that is a really great bike. I have yet to test ride one but I will. I think the concept is perfect for my riding style: 90% touring but just toss the bags and you are set for a track day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOqx7HCwZI8

Try swapping all five-pin relays around, round-robin. If you have some electric cleaner spray (preferably not WD-40 or the likes with oil in them) you could spray the relay sockets while at it. Chances are problem vanishes. Best of all, this cost you nothing to try!

How cool. Maybe that's why we haven't heard from dlaing for a while? He's been busy! I think I need to buy a set just for the hell of it.

Among many things, a clogged fuel filter can act as a rev limiter. Another not too uncommon cause is solenoid (fuel tap) malfunction - the pump can suck it open but you will have fuel starvation.

Fargin' BRILLIANT picture!

I chased some terrible noise for years, a ringing noise that I thought was chain related. I even replaced the tentioner (which was a good thing anyway) but it did not fix the problem. In the end I found out it was... wait, should I really tell this? OK. It was the frigging clamps between downpipes and crossover, hitting the sump. Man. Anyway when I replaced my tensioner I took the opportunity to check what the chain can hit if no tensioner AT ALL is mounted. I couldn't find ANY chance of the chain hitting ANYTHING. I know others have told otherwise and I don't suggest they are wrong but maybe there are different blocks or timing chests or different length chains or whatever. I simply could not pull the chain out long enough to touch the case.

Best Islay I ever tried was 17 year old Ardbeg. Normal Ardbeg is 10 years and very very rough. The 17 year one was very mild and sophisticated. Unfortunately I think the more matured one is very rare.