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See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691 for models. Other ones with that fairing are Rosso Corsa and Nero Corsa

Nice. Looks like a 16" front wheel on that pic though, but that must be an optical illusion

I take your word for it but I'm not sure I understand the difference. I thought the total mass, or inertia, would be about the same. But maybe the point is it's in another plane?

Why is that, is the top mounted alternator lighter? I don't get it.

That is the problem with those. My friend had intermittent problem for months before he nailed it down. He replaced the filter and some hoses that looked marginal. He tried looking into the tank through the cap when running, looking for swirls or bubbles. He disassembled the lot several times and just visually checked hoses and stuff. He listened carefully to the various sounds when priming and when the priming ended. He didn't catch that failing clamp because it was fairly tight, but there is quite a pressure in the fuel system and apparently it was leaking good. And it was temperature dependant too. What you can do to confirm a problem is measure your fuel pressure down at the injectors. When priming you should have 3 bar, when priming stops you should still have at least 2.5 bar for several minutes.

I finally got around to it again too. Thanks orangeokie for reminding us.

What's with the Cali Vintage? It has the new engine, not? And a 5-speed gearbox, what is that, the old usual one from '72? Where is the alternator mounted? It definitely does have a good old swing arm, eh... doesn't it? I don't really know but I really assume it has. Doesn't that mean we could put any of the usual gearboxes, with a swing arm, on a new style 8V Guzzi engine and put that plant in an MGS-01 frame? Without actually doing a lot of conversions. I do not know, I'm just asking. The most tricky part in that project would be to find an MGS-01 frame

As soon as you start cranking the pump goes on again. A friend of mine had lots of problem with his Duc 916 in-tank pump and filter. Something leaked so he lost pressure, but since it leaked internal to the tank there was not much evidence of it. It ended up being a weak clamp. But his problems was mostly on WOT. Maybe it's not fueling. You might want to check your spark plugs, as well as battery voltage (preferably when cranking).

I think this is "the" thread about cush drive: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820 Not everybody will agree they should be drilled (personally I haven't done it yet but consider it), but anyway they should be looked at and greased.

Searching this forum you'll find some pictures and facts about internal pump/filter. The sympthoms I have seen when fuel filter is clogged is you can start it, good idle, no problems at low speed but fuel starvation when trying to go faster. Impossible to overtake a car etc etc. Do you have any problems once it is running? If not I guess the fuel filter is fine.

No disassembly, this bearing might be the easiest one to replace on the whole bike. Just remove the inner race with your bare hands and then pull the bearing out using an internal puller or something. Mine came out easily without heat. Note that the bevel box will have some slop even after replacing the bearing, don't expect it to become rock solid.

I never understood that "degree wheel" page in the WHB as there is nothing to align (except the marks must point right). All parts are keyed. I think the only outcome of that procedure is that you verify that the TDC marks on the flywheel are punched where they should be, and that you didn't put the cam 180 degrees out of phase. But you don't need the degree wheel for that anyway!? Or do I miss something?

Needle bearing part no is HK 2516-2RS and a separate inner race IRZ 20x25x18. Those are standard bearing numbers, not very expensive. Guzzi part numbers are 92252225 and 92259025. That goes for both V11 and older 1100 Sports http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9794

That shit has come to Sweden too, it's an EU thing. The tires are usually not bound to exact make and model, but exact dimension and speed rating. Or rather, whatever is literally written out in the Certificate of Conformity, you can not change. So if the papers state a make and model tyre, you are bound to it. If the papers state a 280 km/h tyre for a street car, you must use such tires even though you can't legally go faster than 120 km/h on Swedish roads. A good reason to ride an 11 year old bike Actually they don't even test my exhaust gases at all.

The charging issue could be as easy as too low idle. It should be around 1100-1200 rpm and some tachos read too high. The starting problem could be as easy as replacing spark plugs. If that does not help, maybe check valve lash and set to world spec if they are not already. Filter, pads and other generic parts can often be found much cheaper at alternative places (NAPA, Ducati or Buell dealers etc etc). There should be a list of alternative parts somewhere in the forum but I can't remember seeing one.

Searching this forum for 'TPS' will keep you busy for days. Whatever you do, write down the numbers before messing with it so you can reset it as it were, just in case.

It's TÜW. German homologation. I'm puzzled I can't find it on any Wikipedia, not even the German one. In the context above I guess it's like MOT, annual test/approval for vehicles. Also, aftermarket exhausts, lights, turning indicators and such things can be "TÜW approved" and then you can just mount it and it will be OK without hassle with authorities. That goes for me too in Sweden, because of the European Union.

Hey, does it say "Made in France" in that picture? I'm not going to tell ya what my conclusions of that is Seriously I have no idea if Twinmax is generally reliable or not, but obviously it is an easy check: make up some kind of Y connection so both hoses are connected to the same port. Try running the engine at various throttle openings and verify that the meter sits fairly tight, right in the middle. After that, you can and will trust it to some extent

V11 workshop handbook says 40-42 Nm. That is 30-31 lbft for the ones with odd tools

Excellent, this will come handy during this winter. Thanks!! I had another in my bookmark collection but it does not include pictures. I'm not sure it adds anything but anyway it's http://www.airheads.org/content/view/210/98/

Tell Monique I remembered because of her

A brand new Odyssey should definitely not drop that much just powering the headlight. Did you charge it beforehand?

yeah that's a more pure solution Reminds me I heard of someone having to reverse the function of the kill switch on his Guzzi for electrical gremlin reasons. Great theft protection!

Nowadays most multimeters are digital so probe polarity doesn't matter - you'll just get a minus sign before the figures if connected "wrong". And of course there is no need to correct that, just disregard the sign. For voltage tests, you do not need heavy wires. The current passing the multimeter is really really tiny when measuring voltage. Nothing will every fry as long as you don't try to measure current (amperes) going through the starter. That would be an adventure... OTOH, since the starter is unfused (it has to be) you should be very careful not to accidently short the positive wire to ground with the probe. That could very well weld a hole in your gearbox. First he said 10 volts but then 12.75 volts, not sure which was correct. Anyway, it is a good point to charge fully before measuring. After that, the "1c" test above will immediately tell you if the battery is due for replacement or not.

This happened to Jaap a couple of years ago, try finding that thread. I recall it has a nice diagram of the pressure regulator. Jaap's problem was the regulator itself leaking, not its' mount to the tank. It was an easy fix: remove the clip underneath, pull it apart, replace the o-ring. Something like that, IIRC. EDIT: I found the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10463 but he didn't even have to replace the o-rings, just clean up some crud.