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Here are some simple tests without diving into the harness: Check voltage at battery with a) ignition off, ignition and headlight on, and c) during cranking. Check voltage at starter during cranking. Both meter probes near starter (eg. at the copper nut and at one of the starter mounting bolts) Check voltage between battery positive terminal and starter positive (copper nut) during cranking. We are now measuring voltage DROP so it better be low. Check voltage drop between battery negative terminal and starter mounting bolt when cranking. When my bike refused to crank, the tests 1a and 1b showed good voltages, but at 1c it went from 12.7 V to some 4 V (!) so I needed not look further. Must have been a broken terminal inside the battery, from over torquing. Do not over torque a Hawker (or Spark) battery! The normal M6 torque figures are way to high for this one. If #1 looks sane, try #2. If that shows a significantly lower voltage than 1c, we have a voltage drop somewhere, proceed to 3 & 4 to narrow it down. 3 & 4 has been on my to-do list for long but I don't have much of a problem (just a little hesitation, never fails) so I don't know what normal figures will look like. But for starters (pun intended), if one of them shows a significantly higher voltage drop than the other, you know where to look.

Don't blame Jaap, you probably accidently changed layout yourself At the top right of any thread, click Options -> Display Modes -> Standard

Thumbs up Now to the question why the first one went bad while garaged... I guess we'll never know.

Another idea just hit me... maybe you should check your fuel pressure? A too low pressure might fit all your sympthoms. I'm thinking pressure regulator went bad, letting too much fuel pass it back to tank. Another reason would be clogged fuel filter. You can hear that if you know the normal sound from the pump. Any little car repair shop should be able to test your pressure. It should be 3 bar = 44 psi.

If I read your posts right, both cylinders suddenly went crazy. That speaks against air leak a little. Did you check the mentioned temp sensors? You can measure them with any cheap multimeter. If the resistance is something like 2-4 kΩ it's fine.

I take it you mean the boot between TB and airbox. A faint crack there wont affect the engine.

They do have different part numbers but like you I guess they are practically the same. Maybe there is provision for the other type of oil temp sensor in the Cali one.

You can think of the outputs as relay contacts with the other side grounded (but it's actually power transistors doing the equivalent job with microsecond precision). The coils and the injectors circuits look pretty much the same: they have a constant 12V on one side (fed by the power relay a.k.a the "injection relay"), the other side goes to the ECU. So when the ECU "activates" an injector, it just grounds that output at the right time and for the right duration. In this environment, what could fry such an output is too much current. A shorted coil would blow its corresponding output transistor in the ECU. But probably nothing else would happen, the rest of the ECU would still function. The blown transistor will generally re-birth as a crowbar. It will conduct as a nail in both directions with or without power. If this has happened, it may fry the coil it was connected to (it's not designed to handle that continuos power). But hey, if we had a shorted coil in the first place that wont happen of course. The power fuse would blow instead. If we're really lucky it will actually blow before the transistor goes south. For good measure you could check resistance in both coils and both injectors. It should be really low (couple of ohms off the top of my head) but not shorted. For example, to measure the RH ignition coil, disconnect the ECU and the power relay and measure between ECU pin 20 and power relay 87.

I can give you a mixed message here: I wouldn't hesitate using a 7.5 A instead of a 5 A in that case. The Sporti was delivered with all five fuses being 15 A and losing engine power in unfortunate moments can be very dangerous. On the other hand I do know a Sporti that set itself on fire with ignition off and stored in a garage! The whole front fairing and all electrics there was destroyed and the insurance company wrote it off. Luckily the fire put itself out before taking the whole building with it. Noone knows exactly what happened. The headlamp was relayed a couple of months before it happened, but that was fused too.

Yes but that thread did not answer the "lube plunger?" question. I agree with SH, unless someone authoritative tell us something else I would use a little lube. Maybe dry lube? I also wonder if the starter gear and the ring gear should be completely dry. I guess some grease here would attract lots of clutch dust and do more harm than good. Maybe some dry lube here too?

The steam train

Maybe in the short term, but that would be like fixing a broken leg with a pain killer so we need some real treatment too. Is there 12V on the other side of that fuse? Have you tried wiggling the fuse, spraying the sockets with electrical cleaner, or replacing it?

Some Volvos too, but there are different models of the Valeo with various gearing and direction, so either you'll have to double check model number or use some part from your current one.

At that low mileage, and since it's cracked, one could suspect manufacturing fault. Maybe it just had it coming, since new. Do the spark plugs tell you anything? Light, dark, difference btw left and right?

I'll keep my fingers crossed. Let's just hope that wont end up as the third victim of your ECU serial killer bike ... Nah, seriously I don't believe that

2000m (or really 2000 mV) is suitable for measuring TPS base and idle. You could use the 200mV range for base TPS but it's better to use one range for both.

Good point. The MGS-01 is the most underproduced bike ever

I replaced it at 46,000 km (roughly 30,000 miles) because I had a wierd ringing noise from the engine and suspected the chain hit something. The tensioner was incredibly weak and the aftermarket one was cheap so I tried it even though I saw no traces of chain hitting covers. The noise did disappear at the time but recently it came back... and I realized it was just an exhaust clamp touching the sump it was really hard to locate where the sound came from, I was sure it was from the timing chest...

I start to think Greg's more expensive alternatives seem likely. And I agree with Hubert so I'd guess the problem was more related to pressure than quality of the oil. Anyway I guess you need to tear stuff apart. Is the oil filter still tight? And the over pressure relief valve too? You never saw an oil pressure warning light? The latter won't warn until pressure is reeeally low though. What oil level did you have?

I'm not sure if timing should be read as the valve train or the ignition, so here's my take on both. The ECU handles the ignition advance timing and there is nothing to adjust apart from the map on the chip and the 150 mV base TPS. As for valve timing, some of us have had what appeared to be chain whip scatter due to the weak OEM chain tensioner (possibly combined with worn chain). I could see it with a timing lamp to the flywheel at idle. The reference marks jumped around wildly. I replaced my tensioner with a Valtech type, and the same test showed a great difference to the better. But I can't say I noticed much improvement other than when strobing. For my bike, with worn valve guides and whatnot, I swear the Raceco valve lash spec works like a charm for eliminating that 3000 rpm stumble. It's really like night and day. Everything else gets better too, rock steady idle at any rpm I like and so on. I'm not sure if this is a general effect of giving it a little wider clearance or if my bike needs it mostly because of its' age or so. Another thing that initially got me on the right track towards eliminating the stumbles, was to enrichen the mixture a bit using the idle CO pot that the older bikes feature. But that alone doesn't help if I my valves are a little tight

I had really strange and alarming sounds from my engine (a Sporti mind you) that took forever to diagnose. It was almost impossible to tell the origin and I was pretty sure it came from the timing chest. It ended up just being an exhaust clamp (at downpipe/crossover) banging against the sump.

FWIW the starter solenoid can be disassembled and cleaned. I plan to have a look at mine this winter. It has never failed starting, but it's weak and hesitant even with a brand new and fully charged battery.

Ha! I found them at http://www.flickr.com/photos/belfastguzzi/page4/ Thank you BFG

Thanks! I new it was one of the longnameendingwithGuzzi. Now I found it: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11299 Unfortunately the pictures seem to be gone Thing is, on a swedish forum someone wondered if a little glowing (seen when idling in the dark) is normal on the headers. I though that picture would have been a good description of what's going on inside