raz

There's nothing wrong with checking the valves. To me it's a stress reliefer. Guzzi Yoga. If it ends up with no adjustment, you will still have the benefit of knowing that! Apparently the newer type of gaskets don't crush so the need for re-torque should be gone. And if not, it should have been taken care of at the initial service. There is no point in re-re-torquing. I get the impression some people loosen and re-torque at every valve check and for what I know that is much more risk than benefit. But you could check them without loosening them first, just have a 'torque wrench click' at each of them. If the easy ones make that click without moving, don't bother digging for the "hidden" ones.

In case you want to play a little more, you could try establishing that the ECU connector has 12V on whatever pins it's supposed to, like pin 17 regardless of ignition, and pin 26 with ignition on. And with ignition off, check resistance between ECU connector ground (pins 23 & 24) and battery ground. All this could be measured with the ECU disconnected. Also, with ECU connected and ignition on, you could check whether you have 5V output to the TPS. If you have, at least SOMETHING works inside that box...

I'm almost sure it was in this forum, a year ago or more, and I seem to recall it was DeBenGuzzi, that posted pictures of his Guzzi running without downpipes in the evening. I can't find the thread. Anyone remember?

Rumours has it it's a Hawker Genesis in disguise. The Hawker Odyssey is theoretically better suited for motorcycles, but I've heard of many Spark & Genesis batteries lasting forever.

He just did that, and it didn't run. Agreed, you can't just put any ECU in any bike even if it looks the same. I'd guess it should prime though. If you have means to try a known good V11 ECU in your bike, that would be the next.

I agree completely. I actually never went back after seeing the horrible interface after the last crash. It's a pity cause I really enjoyed the site before that.

What does your speedo indicate at some of those speeds? Of the motorcycles I have tried, my Sporti actually has the most accurate speedo. Pretty much like my car. At 90 km/h indicated, I have a GPS speed of about 87 km/h.

I told you so long ago I hope your ECU is fine, it's the most expensive suspect

I'm not sure what you mean this time, Dave. You are right in the details, but there is no need to disconnect the relay. If the voltage at 86 drops to zero you know it is grounded, by inference (is that the correct word?). You wouldn't want to try an ohm-meter or something, if that is what you meant, since we don't know exactly what's inside the blackbox pin 19 and you don't measure resistance on live parts anyway.

We have that system here, on car insurance. But the OEM odo is fine, and actually noone will check if you're stating a too low mileage, unless you wreck your car. Also, at the annual MOT inspections they will write down the odo figures. If you drive less than you forecasted, you can apply for getting some money back. The mileage classes goes like this: 0-10000 km/year 10000-15000 15000-20000 20000-25000 25000 and up The highest class was about 35% more expensive than the lowest when I tested it on a website just now. I'm not sure if that ratio depends on a lot of stuff and may vary more. Motorcycles aren't affected though.

Now you tell a different story from the above You should have voltage at 87 for 1-2 seconds after turning ignition on, then no voltage until cranking. If you have the 1-2 seconds of power but not when cranking, your camshaft position sensor is suspect. If you don't have even the 1-2 seconds of power, your ECU is suspect.

Carl's schematics: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html Other stuff: http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/ and hundreds of other places all over the 'net

I had one stuck because an under-sized ball wedged with the end of the spring. Just disassemble them (take care not to lose springs and balls), check, lube, reassemble.

Disadvantages: It's illegal (at least where I live). If you put it in to compensate for a voltage drop, you will just get an even larger voltage drop. If not, your reflector may or may not survive the heat. A ruined reflector will give you worse light. A reflector is probably damn expensive and hard to find... Relay the headlight instead!

In both cases the fuel pump would prime. That is why I suggest to forget about sparks and injectors for now and concentrate on the fuel pump. Find that problem and you'll probably solve all sympthoms.

That relay is controlled by the ECU and it's powered when engine is running, or cranking. Plus the two second priming at ignition-on. The fuel pump will always run when the relay is powered, since it has a permanent ground. But each coil only have current if the relay is powered AND the ECU wants it to (because the ECU controls each coils' ground path too, separately - not with relays but solid state semiconductors). If you have 12V at the relay contacts (87) but not at the pump, some wire must be broken as you can see on the schematics. You just have to narrow it down. Personally I would disregard the coils for now and concentrate on finding out for sure how/where the wire to the pump is broken. Odds are you will fix all issues when you find it.

That is tempting but have you priced a reflector? With almost twice the power, I'd be afraid of ruining it from overheating. Bulb life should be compromised too. These are just my guesses though. JackBoots, sorry for straying away... keep up posted!

Relaying the headlight is really a must on any motorcycle where it's not done from factory. If you just manage to lower the total resistance by 0.4 ohms (you can easily do better than that: my original routing passed two switches, two relays and at least four connectors. That is without counting the ground path. And the wires are tiny.) you will actually get more light than if you try to compensate the voltage drop by putting in a 70/100W bulb! The latter will just make your voltage drop even bigger. Sorry, couldn't stop myself but as dlaing said, that voltage drop will also affect your charging in one way or the other!

Is that the same bike as in your avatar? Nice, red is much better than blue IMO! But why is it parked on a railroad? Insurance fraud?

I second that. My Z6 rear has about 10,000 miles on it and it's still (barely) street legal. Amazing. The wear is coming on quick now though, on left side of center. That has only happened on my fronts before. I would be DELIGHTED to hear my tires! My gearbox outnoises them (and the opened air box lid, and my Mistrals) in any speed

Pardon a stupid question but did you check the power fuse? Not the 30A fuse others are having problem with, but the one called F2 in Carl's schematics. That one drives the coils and pump. Don't just look at it, check that you have 12V on both sides of it. It's so easy to miss the easy ones

I agree there is probably no big deal if you underfill it a little (though that's just my layman guess). I'm more worried about overfilliing since I have enough pressure problems anyways.

The level plug is pretty sensitive to bike not being in level so I always fill by amount. My Sporti needs 250 ml total, apparently your V11 needs 370 ml (of which 20 ml moly unless you use 370 ml of RLSPH instead).

Here is a good article (in the BMW Airheads forums) on how to diagnose and service a Valeo starter. I found it searching our forum here, but the post referring to it was from 2003 and the article has moved, so here is an updated link: Servicing a Valeo Starter

While aiming for something else I stumbled over this interesting article about Techlusion: http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/sta...techlusion.html