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I remember the Nakamichi Dragon was "the reference" in magazine tests for years and years. It's got to be the best cassette deck ever produced.

Check connections between alternator and regulator, and between regulator and the rest (including ground of course) before suspecting anything else. In particular, check the (probably yellow) connectors between alternator and regulator. Undo them and inspect them, put a little dielectric grease on them before they go back in. While those connectors are undone though, you could measure alternator output with a 200 VAC volt meter. It should read 15V at 1000 rpm, 40V at 3000 rpm and some 80V at 6000 rpm. You may want to take a look at this fuse too.

It's hidden to the point someone claimed he hasn't got one, even after looking carefully It's located between the throttle bodies. A hose (like an inch OD or so) go up/forward between the cylinders to the oil condenser built into the spine frame. When that hose cracks, you will know... I'm not sure there is a valve though. Is it? That would be on the engine side, right?

I think I heard some systems do that to a degree. I don't think it will help the power loss at warmer air temps though, just save your engine on the drag race strip. I'd hate riding at 125°C ambient for sure As you can see, they didn't bother putting in any more decrease above 41°C, that makes sense in Celsius. FWIW here is the air table from MyECU as delivered. This one also goes all the way to 125°C but no values is given above 50°C: # AirT is the barometric adjustment for air temp (based on ideal gas law) #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 AirT% +24.7 +19.8 +15.2 +11.0 +7.1 +3.4 +1.7 +0.0 -3.2 -6.2

Welcome Johno! Jaap, if you had been using that avatar at the time I signed up here, I think you would have scared me away for good

It's more or less pure mathematics with ancient physical algebra. Warmer air has less density. To keep the air/fuel ratio (by weight) constant, the ECU must inject less fuel at warmer temperature (and also at higher altitude, for the same reason). Sadly, our bikes, like any normal aspirated engines, will perform their very best at temperatures so low we don't dare using it An exemple of remedy for the problem is a charger like this one

Are you sure the clicking is the pump and not a fuel tap solenoid or something? If it's the pump it sounds like a severe voltage drop somewhere after the relay (assuming relay is ok and battery is good). Like you say if the pump was faulty you would still have spark, BUT the pump, ignition coils and injectors are all powered by the same fuse and the same relay. You should check voltage at the pump or somewhere else downstream the relay contacts. A copy of Carl Allison's schematics will be of good help.

Do a forum search for "relays". Or just try swapping the relays around and see if it helps. May not be it, but that test costs nothing. Speaking of relays, my power relay shaked loose completely from its' socket yesterday, leaving me in the fast lane with a dead engine. I quickly diagnosed it and pushed the relay back. Then it happened again in only 150 kms (of course when overtaking a car, again). It has never happened before in 30,000 kms so I guess my bike has developed a new kind of vibration that promotes this. I'll strap-tie the relays now.

Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on? If it does, your power feed and ECU is probably OK and the crank position sensor might be next to check. See http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1838 (post #6 by GuzziJack) for how to check it.

Cliff himself says he experience very small differences between the cylinders so personally I've given up the idea of running two sensors. Just keep the TB's in synch.

I have had various problems with my usb-to-serial and it ended up being stupid synch programs for PDA's and such (like Microsoft ActiveSync), that steals the com ports. Now I quit all such programs before running ECUControl.

Possibly. If you switch cans and it runs great, why bother? There are numerous reports that the V11 stock mapping actually seem better suited with an aftermarket exhaust. Ryland is the perfect example, he dyno'ed the bike and the map was perfect without a change. That said, if you replace your exhaust you should be prepared to remap the bike.

I like that they are not too long. My Mistrals are too long, and to thin for my taste. There is a thin line between perfect and too long, one inch may ruin the look. Gotthard Pass (Switzerland-Italy), a wonderful ride. There is a highway and a smaller road in parallel and we took the small road of course. On the way back from Mandello we did the St. Moritz Pass towards Austria and that's where I found that fire post with a "Guzzi Club Sweden" sticker. Noone in the club has recognized it as their work, that version of the sticker is apparently more than 10 years old.

Ha ha, oh well. They've been available for weeks at this address but I'm such a lousy photographer I didn't want to tell you. Most of them will be meaningless to you but there are a couple of nice panorama pics and there are pictures from the Guzzi and BMW museums. Those are nice cans! I almost expected something wierd

Yes I do that too so I can see the progress. I have a pretty good perl script that shows the difference between two rides. This is an example output from your maps: RPM 500 1150 1500 1801 2000 2302 2601 2900 3360 3654 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 InjDur 14 InjDur 13 InjDur 12 -13% -4% InjDur 11 -15% -24% InjDur 10 InjDur 09 InjDur 08 -17% -13% -13% -24% InjDur 07 -13% -13% -12% InjDur 06 -13% -13% -13% -13% -13% InjDur 05 -12% -12% -13% InjDur 04 -10% +1% -4% -11% -12% InjDur 03 -8% -9% -4% -13% InjDur 02 -6% -10% -2% -6% -24% InjDur 01 -15% -4% -2% +1% -17% InjDur 00 +2% My grounds are made carefully and correctly too but there still was a little offset. What I mean is you can connect a laptop to the LC-1 serial cable (the 2.5 mm stereo plug to a RS232 computer serial) and read the digital out using the LogWorks software. This will not be affected by any grounding issues, you can trust it as long as you did a free air calibration by the book. At the same time you read the voltage displayed in the Optimiser. If there is any discrepancy you have a grounding issue and you can correct it by altering the output specs accordingly. IIRC I even set the LC-1 to always output 1.0 volts, checked against Optimiser (which read 1.02 V), then set it to always output 4 volts and checked again (now reading 4.02 V). This showed that I had a fixed offset of 0.02 volts. So I just adjusted the analog outputs by the same amount. This is only important when we share maps. If you would have a large offset but work out your own sane voltages you'd be fine anyway but your data would not be useful for others unless we know our voltages mean the same. If you would have an offset of -0.1 volts (which is not very likely if you follow the instructions) and just copy my O2 targets, you would run at 0.02 leaner Lambda all over. I.e. 0.98 instead of 0.96, that could be bad.

Break a leg!

Oh, and another thing: have you checked that you don't have a ground offset? When I first read the digital channel into my laptop, I realized my analog was offset about 20 mV. To compensate for that I altered the outputs accoringly so the ECU reads the same as the computer does. A larger ground offset than that could theoretically make your mixture much leaner than intented, and at these pretty lean levels that can be a bit of a risk.

Please insert your maps in codeboxes so the format doesn't screw up! You did a big change to the target map so until the injection map settles it will be a little rough when moving between cells that are corrected and ones that are not. It doesn't take long though. Maybe you should wait until it's settled before you try to fine tune it. Like you said, (6,a) means (6,10) and they are (throttle,rpm). I usually don't aim much for the breakpoints, I just ride with autotune active. Over this summer almost every cell has settled anyway. Normal riding involves surprisingly few cells and these will correct themselves very quick. Are the popping at row 0 only? Maybe you should run that whole row at open loop again and reset its' pulse-widths to what it was before.

Pictures please!

Your writeup is excellent Jens, I recall it was your story that made me buy one. I haven't seen anything like that on a My15M build so don't forget taking pics, John! Jens, are you just 'upgrading' or do you have another bike now? I asked Cliff long ago if I could buy a Mk III circuit board, for upgrading mine, but he never answered. The Mk III apparently has circuitry that helps out if the voltage drops during cranking. Speaking of PCB's, I've stumbled over this picture on the 'net: What on earth is that? It's not a Mk I, it's older than Mk II but the PCB looks better, multilayer with lots of ground plane and using the existing heat sinks. It must be a Mk one-and-a-half prototype?

This: It was certainly a transition to the better Really nice now, DeBenG

I added a link to Innovate's forum. This is a great place for closed loop tips and tricks, as well as general tuning information. One interesting post is this one. You can set your LC-1 to output realtime, or average over 1/12th of a second or longer. The post describes how this averaging is made to never mask a single miss, which is good to know.

Sorry, I just intended to answer the "what is" question and I had no intention to bash Greg for trying. On the contrary, of course we're interested in how it works out. The key seems to be that a radial m/c will have its plunger moving in the same direction as the lever is pulled, while a conventional one will have the plunger moving perpendicular to it. I'm not sure why that would matter much but even if it doesn't, a new m/c can be better for numerous other reasons.

I'm also running iridium plugs but I can't notice any difference other than they last longer. I'm not sure if that compensates the price. Are you sure about those valves? The fact it's almost new does not guarantee you have a sane clearance. You don't have to run Raceco spec, just don't let it go any tighter than world spec. Set them rather loose than tight. I recently had mine go tight (they seem to vary back and forth, maybe cause my guides are so worn so they seat a little different) and the stumbles immediately came back. I set them at Raceco spec at the camping in Mandello del Lario and she's been very happy since.

On my bike it was completely cured by setting Raceco valve lash (0.20/0.25 mm) and turning the CO potentiometer inside the ECU (under the rubber cover) 1/8 turn anti-clockwise. There are other ways but this one costs nothing, so give it a try. Turn the CO pot. with engine idling, and just aim for the smoothest idle. For me the results (even way off idle) was so amazing I haven't even bothered trying setting it better. Anti-clockwise is richer, so apparently that was what my bike needed.