raz

http://motorcyclebloggers.com/tech-talk-ar...ster-cylinders/ Probably just bling bling, just like "radial calipers". Sure, theoretically there may be an advantage, but real world? I'm not convinced. If I had much more money I would probably say something else

Paul, I think I see now where you got the inspiration for your custom tail section, consciously or not!

http://www.motorcyclemuseum.org/halloffame...page.asp?id=178

The only 50cc I recall having that kind of fan cooling is Sachs and Puch, but it's neither of them. This could be a quiz in itself! I'm curious.

That looks pretty neat Paul. More like a carb Sport bevelbox. Is there room for a cush drive in your rear wheel? I've always thought that flange is too big, aestethically.

I've heard it happen to others. The whole idea with the blind heads is that a thief should have a hard time removing them. But Guzzi forgot to tighten them up Try to get a grip on the remaining bolt and wind it out. Then take it to a shop and get some replacement ones with inbus head or something. If you want blind heads I guess a locksmith could help you out. I think a new bolt has a head, but is made to break when you torque it, leaving the "blind head".

I admit that was just an illustrative example... though 15.5:1 on a Guzzi is probably past the dangerous area so the engine would probably just run bad, if at all. I did some experiments near and at stoich (at cruising) last spring, then looked at my plugs. They politely asked me "Hey Raz, please don't do that again" so I wont. Since then I don't go leaner than Lambda 0.96 and this gives me 5 l/100km mileage. I'm sure I could stretch it a bit leaner but I don't care, at least not until I can double check stuff with a 5-gas or something. Maybe the noise from my straight cut fivespeed masks any pinging noises, I haven't ever heard a ping from this engine.

Hm, I seem to be able to answer part of this myself. If I load that 'correct' TempR row, it will be loaded back the same as in Cliff's maps. The values change that much due to how the ECU stores the numbers. No big deal. The pressure values I have may or may not be correct, as I took them from the 'efiman.pdf' that is actually made for older systems, and converted mmHg to mBar using www.onlineconversion.com. Bottom line is: don't trust me on this one Edit: it seems I'm right about the pressure sensor.

You are sure there is a crack in the casing itself and not just the painting? I think if you have a crack through it would leak lots of oil regardless of if it's above the oil level or not.

That sounds great, where I live we have to stuff it into about three days. We don't know beforehand which three, they are scattered over five months.

Did you try the other measurements, isolation and continuity? I guess you're right the alternator is busted. It seems Sporti, California 3 and Quota use the same one. Edit: maybe not really, it seems the Cali used a Saprisa alternator. I just saw this aftermarket alternator that claimed to fit V11, Sporti, Cali 3 and Quota. Anyway if you look around at http://www.stein-dinse.com/eliste/ you'll be able to find bikes with the same type.

Did you measure the alternator voltage with regulator disconnected? If not, a partly shorted regulator may give that effect I guess. Here's a snippet from my WHB: With the engine switched off, disconnect the two yellow generator cables from the rest of the system and then carry out the following tests with a ohmmeter: Check the winding isolation towards earth Connect one connecting point of the ohmmeter to one of the two yellow cables and the other connecting point to earth (laminar pack). The instrument should indicate a value above 10 M Check the winding continuity Connect the two connecting points of the ohmmeter to the two yellow cables. The instrument should indicate a value of 0.2-0.3 ohms. Check the voltage output Connect an alternate 200 Volt capacity voltmeter to the two yellow cables. Start the motor and check that the voltage output is included within the values indicated on the following tables: r.p.m. 1000 3000 6000 A.C. volts 15 40 80

I find that hard to believe. Of course you can set up carbs to be much better than a stock EFI, but then you can change that map to be much better than those perfectly set up carbs, because you don't have to compromise. You could run AFR 15.5:1 at selected cells and 10:1 at others, completely without interference.

This is something I've been meaning to ask Cliff about but I haven't got around to it: # Pressure - mV and mB values defines a line representing the air pressure conversion MyECU Cfg Pressure=249mV,121mB,4751mV,1060mB # TempR gives the value in ohms of the NTC temperature sensor #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 TempR 51466 28618 16571 9712 5956 3742 2991 2408 1597 1077 746 524 375 274 203 152 102 The above lines are as they come from Cliff's maps. I haven't asked him why yet, but they deviate from what they should look like according to the sensor specs. Maybe he has measured his own sensors carefully and use that data. This is how they should be according to the sensor specs (with some smaller deviations due to how the ECU stores numbers): # Pressure - mV and mB values defines a line representing the air pressure conversion MyECU Cfg Pressure=249mV,170mB,4751mV,1050mB # TempR gives the value in ohms of the NTC temperature sensor #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 TempR 53100 29121 16599 9750 5970 3747 3000 2417 1598 1080 746 526 377 275 204 153 102 I actually run the latter ones now, but Cliff may have very good reasons for not to. Anyway it's probably not a big deal, and certainly not if running closed loop.

Unfortunately I can't share my map because it's based on a map I bought from Phil Arnold. Not that there is that much left of his injecton map, but the ignition advance map is intact (albeit interpolated to my breakpoints). Note that the later software use a new format for the files. If I load Pasotibbs' map and just save it with another name, then manually fill in some uninitialized rows (namely Crank, OilT% and AirT%, they were earlier hardcoded in the ECU I guess), the following map is the result. As you can see it now has some inline comments: # TDC is the pulse count for TDC power stroke of cylinder 1 ( i.e. When the spark fires # CylOffs is the number of degrees between success cylinders ( 0-720) # PulsesPer is the number of pulses for the 720 degree 4 stroke cycle MyECU Cfg TDC=0x1600, CylOffs=270, PulsesPer=48, MissingPulses=3 # CoilCharge is the period in us for charging the coils. 0 for cranking, 1 for running # Warning, Setting coil charge too high can cook the output transistors and coils MyECU Cfg CoilCharge0=6000,CoilCharge1=2700 # Pressure - mV and mB values defines a line representing the air pressure conversion MyECU Cfg Pressure=249mV,121mB,4199mV,1060mB # There are 8 possible voltage targets available 0-7 # The first number for 0 should be 0.0 and means open loop # For simple sensors where richer is more voltage, all numbers should be positive # For later sensors where leaner is more voltage, all numbers should be negative MyECU Cfg O2=0.00V,-2.25V,-2.15V,-2.05V,-1.96V,-1.86V,-1.76V,-1.66V, MyECU Cfg 2ndO2Sensor=no # RPM specifies the maximum RPM. # TPS specifies the throttle value at idle (no fast idle). MyECU Cfg RPM=8223, TPS=103 # TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC # TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1 # This table relates to the injector open/close times as a function of voltage # The value here is roughly the time ( in us ) # 16V 15V 14V 13V 12V 11V 10V 9V InjVOn 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 # TempR gives the value in ohms of the NTC temperature sensor #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 TempR 51466 28618 16571 9712 5956 3742 2991 2408 1597 1077 746 524 375 274 203 152 102 # Prime gives the fuel injection time in ms while cranking #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 Prime 30 25 20 15 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 # Crank is the %% boost of the map injection times right after start # this boost decays to 0 over about 20s #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 Crank 80 70 65 60 60 60 55 50 35 25 25 15 15 15 15 15 # OilT is the permanent choking boost #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 OilT% +64.8 +53.9 +44.5 +35.9 +29.7 +19.5 +10.2 +9.4 +5.5 +0.0 # AirT is the barometric adjustment for air temp(based on ideal gas law) #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 AirT% +24.7 +19.8 +15.2 +11.0 +7.1 +3.4 +1.7 +0.0 -3.2 -6.2 # This defines the throttle breakpoints. This on top of TPS base above THR 832 704 640 576 512 448 384 320 256 192 128 96 64 32 0 RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 SpkAdv 14 8.20 15.00 17.81 20.33 22.15 23.44 24.43 26.19 28.07 28.95 29.77 32.81 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 13 8.20 14.06 17.05 19.63 21.86 23.44 24.67 26.66 28.83 30.23 30.70 32.81 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 12 8.20 13.36 16.17 18.75 21.09 22.97 24.43 26.89 29.30 30.59 30.70 33.05 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 11 8.20 13.59 16.41 18.98 21.74 24.14 25.37 27.77 30.00 32.29 33.28 35.39 37.27 37.50 37.50 37.50 SpkAdv 10 8.20 13.59 16.41 19.04 21.91 23.26 25.37 27.77 30.47 33.87 35.86 37.73 39.61 39.84 39.84 39.84 SpkAdv 09 8.20 11.95 14.41 16.70 19.98 22.79 24.43 27.13 30.23 33.63 36.33 39.14 40.31 41.02 41.02 41.02 SpkAdv 08 8.20 10.55 12.60 14.59 17.70 20.45 23.09 26.54 30.35 34.69 38.91 40.78 41.72 42.66 42.66 42.66 SpkAdv 07 8.20 10.31 12.25 14.12 17.40 20.45 22.15 26.13 30.53 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 06 8.20 10.08 11.89 13.77 18.16 21.86 24.02 27.36 31.00 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 05 8.20 10.08 11.72 13.59 18.28 22.79 25.43 29.00 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 04 8.20 10.08 11.72 13.71 19.34 24.20 27.01 29.36 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 03 8.20 10.08 11.72 13.71 19.51 24.73 28.18 29.53 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 02 6.09 10.08 11.72 13.71 19.69 25.20 29.30 29.77 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 01 7.03 9.38 10.14 11.60 19.39 25.20 29.30 29.77 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 00 7.03 8.20 8.20 9.20 18.98 25.20 29.30 29.77 31.41 36.15 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 InjAdv 14 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 13 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 480 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 12 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 11 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 10 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 09 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 08 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 07 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 06 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 05 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 04 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 03 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 02 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 01 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 InjAdv 00 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 525 RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 InjDur 14 4912 13088 13017 12937 12714 12475 12285 11183 11026 11056 9504 10640 11040 11856 11552 11520 InjDur 13 4912 12832 13053 13217 13068 12904 12633 11452 11216 11055 10608 9936 10016 10368 10000 9872 InjDur 12 4912 12592 12822 13001 12926 12834 12426 11279 11014 10683 9424 9328 9472 9632 8608 9088 InjDur 11 4912 11136 11331 11477 11365 11269 10986 10614 9734 9547 9040 8672 8672 8672 8672 8672 InjDur 10 8720 9632 9800 9922 9786 9672 9474 9545 8444 8428 8400 8400 8400 8400 8400 8192 InjDur 09 8720 9504 9583 9637 9525 9414 9186 9271 8305 8156 7920 7920 7920 5728 8304 8032 InjDur 08 8720 9296 9181 9075 8952 8827 8328 8687 7830 7555 6848 7840 7840 7840 7840 7824 InjDur 07 6096 8736 8736 8736 8736 8673 7152 7901 7094 6923 6608 7568 7568 7568 7568 7568 InjDur 06 5808 8320 8320 8320 8320 7690 6752 6752 6849 6782 5520 6320 6320 6320 6320 6320 InjDur 05 7152 7520 7520 7503 7343 6016 6016 6016 5901 5450 4864 5520 5520 5328 5136 5136 InjDur 04 5920 6528 6590 6560 5806 4798 4355 4703 4673 4722 4416 4432 3856 3664 4304 4096 InjDur 03 5872 5920 5699 5522 5547 4238 4170 4139 4331 4411 4496 3920 3504 3360 3632 3536 InjDur 02 5824 5456 5306 5137 4692 3862 3586 3338 3742 3825 3280 3424 3168 3040 2992 2992 InjDur 01 5456 4640 4383 4141 3807 2847 2816 3194 3235 3201 3328 3120 2960 2928 2672 2560 InjDur 00 3750 3744 3611 3468 3121 2736 2736 2736 2736 2736 2704 2704 2624 2704 2256 2048 RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 CylOfs 14 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 13 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 12 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 11 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 10 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 09 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 08 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 07 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 06 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 05 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 04 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 03 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 02 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 01 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 CylOfs 00 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 +0 RPM 500 1150 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8116 Flags 14 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) (O7) Flags 13 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O6) Flags 12 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) Flags 11 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) (O5) Flags 10 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O4) Flags 09 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) (O3) Flags 08 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O3) (O2) (O2) (O2) (O2) (O2) (O2) (O2) Flags 07 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 06 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 05 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 04 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 03 (O0) (O7) (O7) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 02 (O0) (O6) (O6) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 01 (O0) (O4) (O5) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 00 (O0) (O6) (O5) (O4) (O4) (O4) (O3) (O2) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1)

You really want to use an original box, because you reuse its' connector. At least that is true for a My16M (suitable 16M's can come from little Fiats and whatnot) because that connector is just not obtainable itself. But of course the donor may very well be a fried and pretty much useless one so you should be able to find one cheap or even free if you're lucky. I was lazy so I just bought mine via Cliff.

I even have a slightly different bike but anyway my straps go below the steering head, above/in front of the upper fittings for the subframe. I can't think of many other ways to design it. I always take care not to interfere with the steering, end stops, cables and such little things

On a side note... how do you pronounce Brno, Slavomir? On TV here they said it like "Berno" with intonation like "Bordeaux". Is that about right? I was even enjoing a sixpack of Starobrno while I watched that, but I have an even harder time pronouncing that (other than just "good Czech beer" which is in fact a redundant sentence)

I made mine from the kit but I have worked with electronics assembly and repair, many years ago. I had a good time refreshing my lost skills. I now remember one more thing that may be of interest for you: My kit came with a straight flash connector (the white 5 pin) for the Optimiser. I carefully bent it to a 90 degree one, flush with the PCB. That way I can connect the flash cable through what was meant to be a battery lid in the case. I kind of think that was intended so maybe Cliff ships them with a 90 degree connector now. I'm not completely satisfied with the Optimiser, because I don't trust it in rain. It's probably pretty easy to find replacement switches and potentiometers that are water proof and not very expensive. Whenever I get around to that I'll report here.

What O2 targets should I use? First, if you already had a pretty good map in open loop, try running it some more, still in open loop but logging or watching the sensor output. The "voltage=Lambda" or "voltage=AFR-10" trick described above will help you read Lambda or AFR directly from the display. This way you get a feel for your baseline. Me and others before me have tried producing a really lean map (at cruising throttle) for good mileage. Trust me: you do not want to run a Guzzi at stoichometric. Not even at low load, in my experience. It will run rough and the plugs will tell you there's danger ahead if you care to ask them. As a starter when you experiment, set row 0 (and column 0) to open loop and the rest of the target map as (O1), and try an (O1) target voltage corresponding to about AFR 13.3 (Lambda 0.91). On a default LC-1, that happens to be exactly 2 volts. Then fiddle around with that single target until you get the feel for where (in the map) various voltages will perform well. Don't bother even trying much leaner than AFR 14.0 (2.25 V) unless you really know what you are doing. You will possibly find that you can go a little leaner above 4000 rpm and much richer at really low rpm (like 2000). You may also find this single, AFR 13.3, target is actually good enough for the whole map! It will not be the absolute max power, nor ultimate mileage, but it will quite possibly be much better than your OEM. Generally you'd want richer mixture at WOT. For cooling, if nothing else. A 2-valve Guzzi also seem to need a richer mixture at low RPM, even at the lower throttle openings. My current O2 map look like this (note that I do not use the default breakpoints) presented as Lambda targets: $ ./ShowO2map.pl 080823.ecu # idle TPS is 97 (473 mV) and we're assuming a base of 30 (150 mV) and WOT @ 993 (4848 mV) THR 896 768 640 512 384 320 256 224 192 160 128 96 64 32 0 #degrees 84.0 61.7 39.5 26.7 20.8 17.8 14.9 13.4 11.9 10.4 9.0 7.5 6.0 4.5 3.1 # A/F ratio 14.05 13.76 13.47 13.18 12.88 12.59 12.30 # Lambda 0.96 0.94 0.92 0.90 0.88 0.86 0.84 MyECU Cfg O2=0.00V,-2.25V,-2.15V,-2.05V,-1.96V,-1.86V,-1.76V,-1.66V, RPM 500 1000 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2662 3059 3521 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8143 Flags 14 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 Flags 13 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.90 Flags 12 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.90 0.92 0.92 0.92 0.92 0.92 Flags 11 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.94 0.94 0.94 0.94 Flags 10 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.92 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 09 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 08 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 07 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 06 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 05 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.88 0.88 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 04 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.88 0.88 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 03 0.84 0.84 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.88 0.88 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 02 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.94 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 01 0.90 0.88 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.94 0.94 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 Flags 00 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.92 0.92 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 This is by no means the ultimate final answer for everyone but this map performs very well for me, yet gives a mileage of 5 liters per 100 km. The map above is not in MyECU format, it's a translation for human readability. I've got some perl scripts for such stuff in case anyone is interested. Last edit: 2008-11-07

2009-04-30 NEWSFLASH: Cliff has now put up a dedicated user forum that (to a degree) obsoletes this thread! In various threads and PM's, me and others have mentioned starting a pinned "MyECU thread" covering all and anything regarding Cliff's MyECUs (My15M and My16M). This is it. In this first post I intend to just dump random info, tips and tricks off the top of my head and I encourage anyone that have anything to add (or disagree with) to chime in. Also, any questions are welcome. In my quick'n'dirty way of seeing things I reckon we just wind this thread on and on and the distilled outcomings will be added to this first post by me. Not that I want to be the judge, it's just that I'll be the only one able to edit this post except the moderators This thread is NOT for bashing the merits of wideband closed-loop or subjective comparisons between MyECU to Power Commander or any other product. Please, make your own thread for that (if you have anything to say not already mentioned in this huge ECU thread ). This thread is primarily for those of us who's already got the MyECU and want to share experiences, and for those that consider buying it and want to know more. Hopefully this will result in a little less FAQ mails to Cliff which means he can put more time into further development! Oh, and when participating, please don't unneccesary quote the whole post you're replying to. That tends to mess up the thread if you answer to a very long post. What is MyECU? MyECU is a replacement for the Weber-Marelli P7, P8, 16M or 15M ECU's fitted in Moto Guzzi, Ducati and Laverda motorcycles. It's designed by Cliff Jefferies in Australia. As far as I know he has sold more than a hundred of them, so it is a relatively mature product. The advantages is it's fully programmable: ignition advance, injection pulsewidth and phasing, breakpoints, injector dead-times, barometric compensations, you name it. Also, you get some means for data-logging if you want/need that. And if you want to, you can run it in closed-loop using a wide band lambda sensor. Note that this is closed-loop for performance, not primarily for environmental reasons. The MyECU hardware is standard components and more or less documented, so it can be repaired by anyone with some electronics skills. The drawback is Cliff is just one man, with only so much time to spare, and sometimes you'd wish the documentation was more complete and up-to-date or that he would communicate software updates even if you don't have a particular problem. Having that said, he has always been very responsive to specific problems I've had. Is it for me? My opinion is that it depends. If your OEM is fried and you can't find a used one cheap, MyECU is a less expensive replacement. If you are the type that wants to do everything yourself and would really love to be able to fiddle with every aspect of the fuel injection system or experiment with closed loop, MyECU is your wet dream. If you just want to go to a dealer and do a dyno tune every other year if needed, and forget about it in between, you might be better off with a PCIII. Closed loop: I think the majority of MyECU owners run it in open loop, just as a plug & play replacement for the OEM and without a sensor. Most I know of that do run closed loop, seem to use the Innovate LC-1 sensor. Actually that kit has a standard Bosch wideband sensor, the actual LC-1 is the interface between that and our ECU. It's programmable and most people seem happy with it. The MyECU itself supports running open or closed loop as delivered. So, if you have a MyECU and want to try closed loop, you just buy a LC-1 kit and find someone who can weld the bung (included in the kit) to the exhaust downpipe. You also need to connect a couple of cables from the LC-1 to the ECU and to 12V power feed. Then you flick a little DIP switch inside the ECU and set at least one O2 target and off you go. See the separate post below about targets. Random observations: If your idle TPS changes significantly when you start the engine, set your ECU Idle TPS value to the running value with warm engine, and no fast idle of course. Closed loop is erroneous (on my setup) at most part of row 0 (at least below 3500 rpm) so I'm leaning towards setting that whole row as open loop. I guess the back pressure results in much too lean readings. You should definitely run the idle cell at open loop. It's so easy to tweak manually anyway, and you don't want any closed loop problems ruin your rock steady idle. Tips and tricks: To read actual lambda or AFR values in the Optimiser display, you have two choices: either set your sensor to output voltage=lambda (eg. 0.87 volts means Lambda 0.87) or set it to voltage=AFR-10 (eg. 2.74 volts means AFR 12.74). Both has drawbacks compared to the LC-1 default: using voltage=lambda, you don't use much of the possible resolution (on the other hand, this results in some damping that may be of benefit). Using V=AFR-10, you can't read richer than 10:1 or leaner than 15:1. That range should be enough though, and you use all available resolution. I've tried both, but currently I just go with the LC-1 defaults. The diagnostic connector can be used for connecting the sensor to the ECU. Take care to seal your ECU from water. I replaced the RJ45 connector for the Optimiser cable with a waterproof mini connector. The Optimiser itself I don't trust in rain, I just disconnect it and stow it away, so that end still uses the RJ45. The ECUControl (Windows program) will happily transpose all maps if you change any of the breakpoints. I had really good results with using my own throttle breakpoints, with higher resolution in the low openings where it is more needed. The TPS figure is actually an accurate but low resolution volt meter. If you multiply the figure with 1024/5000 (roughly 4.9) you get the actual mV as a volt meter would read it on the sensor. This means, for example, you can set your base TPS to 150 ±10 mV just by looking at the Optimiser for a value of 31 ±1. Then if you want to set idle to 378 ±10 mV (the WHB setting for a Sporti), dial in a TPS of 77 ±1 using the LH idle screw. Simple as that. If you add your idle TPS (97 in my case) to the highest throttle breakpoint (960 in the default map I got from Cliff) you will get what TPS output is needed for the ECU to consider it spot on the WOT row. In this case the sum is 1057 which is much higher than even the theoretical maximum you could ever reach, which is 1023. This means you are using less map resolution than you could, the highest row can never be reached! My WOT breakpoint and my idle TPS add up to 993, which corresponds to what my TPS reads at WOT. Complicated? It isn't. Just read it again slowly. This is not the most important thing in the world, but if you aim to produce a perfect map, you should consider this. Software quirks: The latest versions I've got from Cliff is ECU v4.2, Optimiser v4.4v6, and ECUControl v1.43. I have asked Cliff to consider the following issues: The LC-1 can be set to output a specified voltage (usually 0.0 or 5.0 volts) at warmup and at error conditions. Until Cliff adds support for having the ECU recognise that as a reason to temporarily go open loop, you should set both to 5V (provided you use the default leaner=higher setup). This way you'll go 25% rich, instead of 25% lean, if you ever get sensor problems. Trust me, that is what you want. The current Optimiser software can't set negative O2 targets*) if all values was zero to start with. So if you want to temporarily switch to open loop on the roadside, you should use the dip switch. If not, you will be stuck in open loop until you can connect a computer with the ECUControl program. *) negative targets are used indicating that your sensor outputs a higher voltage for a leaner mixure. Greenmonster also reported these: ECUcontrol: If I download map from bike and leave bike power on, I can't alter values. In Global Map Adjust window, adjusting broader areas: +1 percent fuel or degree ignition results in +2 increase, decrease same. Answer fr Cliff: Only press Apply or OK, otherwise command is doubled. Links MyECU home page (Cliff Jefferies) Innovate (LC-1) home page Innovate dealer in Europe Innovate user forums Jens' story (good pictures from assembly) Richard's Excel sheet for maps (see post 181) NEWSFLASH: Cliff has now put up a dedicated user forum that (to a degree) obsoletes this thread! Last edit: 2009-05-18: Optimiser version

No that was Peter from Austria. He got 99 HP from his 1040cc LM3 but he hasn't told how he achieved that - and to what cost...

That was HMB Guzzi. I was gonna suggest them but they have stopped listing the Öhlins forks on that web page (from main page choose Teile, then Angebote). But maybe they still have them, they don't list everything. They do list V11 Marzocchi forks for €399.

Looks harmless to me. It's about drug rehab. I don't get why rehab centers would spam like this though. Wierd. Anyway IMO it must be spam.