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Everything posted by raz
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You got all that matters. You'll be fine Richard. Just try to get a ride sometimes. You will very soon realise that four year old is suddenly twice or three times as old and old enough to be left home with no problems. That takes a blink of an eye, or less. In hindsight.
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Yeah, divorcing is no joy - until all is settled anyway. It was the absolute worst time in my life so far but it eventually turned into the best time in my life. My bike is a major part in the happy end.
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You do have the fairing intact? It limits the choices. I never compared my Sporti back to back with a V11 Lemans, does that fairing leave more room?
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For intake snorkel ideas, see the thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=129567 and especially post #87 by Phil A and on.
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That is the "wrench size" and maybe that is what Stu wanted. I think the thread is 8 mm, someone correct me if not
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No, that is me. Mdude built that ship from a used tooth picker of his.
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I visited the factory last Tuesday. They are open one hour each day, at 3 pm to 4 pm. No entrance fee. I don't know if it closed in August or at weekends. A couple of days later we visited the BMW museum in Munich. You just can't compare those two Oh, and I adjusted my valve lash at the camping site in Mandello. I reckon they will never have to be adjusted again
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Just don't forget these two facts: Using eg. Raceco 0.25/0.20 mm (instead of tighter) valve lash increases the idle speed a lot, nothing else altered. Using the bleeder screws you can also increase the idle speed a good deal Personally I've found my particular bike is really hard to tune with a bit tight lash while a Raceco setting seems to make it really really happy. Not only does the idle speed go up, it's also much much more rigid and stable.
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Now 56,345 km. The figure will raise with about 5,000 in the next 14 days or so That's worthful info Jens, thank you very much! I'll try dismantling mine next winter. Do I need 4 pieces of that same seal or what? I already know that the tiny screws securing the TB's to the lower and upper bars (that fixes them to each other) are bastards to remove without heat and other tricks. Without removing them, you can't take the TB's off the engine - unless you remove the engine from the frame...
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Apparently there is an official "German Motorcycle Route", a 9,000 km ring of selected roads that is good to have in mind when choosing routes. It looks very promising. If I only knew how to stuff it into my Garmin http://www.road-concept.eu/die-msd.html http://www.motorradstrasse-deutschland.de/ http://www.germany-tourism.de/ENG/destinat...trasse-id15.htm Leaving tomorrow morning. I'm excited!
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Me and a friend will take off from Sweden down through Europe next week. We don't have much of a plan yet and there is more or less nothing we have to do or visit. We have two weeks and we don't want to travel more than maybe 500 kms a day average (some days much more, some days more or less parked). We will sleep in tents unless the weather gets really terrible. We'll exit Scandinavia passing Hamburg or Lübeck I guess (don't want to take ferries unless we have to). I'm thinking Nürburg Ring would be nice. Also, a visit to Mandello del Lario can't be wrong, but not much further south in Italy cause it will end up too long a distance for a relaxed schedule. Given that, does anyone know any outstanding road, place or camp site in Germany/Switzerland/Italy/Austria (we could do some BeNeLux too of course) we should consider? Or some cool event in that surroundings, between July 23 and August 1? Oh, and if I end up needing a tyre in Germany, is there some nationwide chain I could look for where I can rest assured the prices are fair, tires in stock and they can replace my tyre without a booking? Or is that not even a problem worth planning for?
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I agree. If raising idle using LH screw fixes your problems, then that is the right thing to do, regardless what mV the TPS ends up as at idle. And if it doesn't, just screw it back.
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I guess the answer to this thread is the same type of wear, and shaft is moving with the vacuum.
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Just a couple of thoughts, to bump your thread up if nothing else. Your bike is lucky to have an owner that doesn't consider the oil light an "oil level heads up" but a "pressure already too low, serious, fatal, warning" like it should be. There's too many "I just tried to ride home after the oil light went on" stories here and they always end in disaster. 120˚C is very hot but as far as I know it's not quite over the edge. I think even dyno oil will survive that temperature. Maybe it is just a bad pressure sensor. I'm not sure what failure mode is common, always lit or never lit?
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Just a FWIW since noone else answers. My downpipes have different lengths so they reach the crossover pretty much symmetricly. It's a Sporti though. I would have expected the V11 to be similar in that aspect.
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I really like that one. But you've got to be careful: I have managed to drop my bike when trying to move it while on the paddock stand. For some reason it lost its seat in the stand and I found myself in an awkward position in front of the bike (I was lifting the front wheel) while it slowly went down. I hate those moments. Clutch lever was the only damage though. I don't think that wheel would have made any difference either way but it would encourage you to try moving stuff around.
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I never did that test but I am sure I have the same problem. My springs underneath collect dirt very fast, and they drip. Very little, but it is there. I haven't got around to fixing it but I will follow your lead, it should be easy to dismantle it and hopefully find an o-ring there that is not too hard to find a replacement for.
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In my humble opinion these SUCK! Please don't take it personal. I have yet to see a Microsoft based PDA that doesn't drain its batteries in a day without even being used. I hate them. I hate them. I hate them. Also, my current one (a Siemens Loox) needs a §½@¤& STACK of adapters (a wiggly stack protruding like 8 cm from the device) for connecting to a car outlet. What a joke. These were not designed for being used in the Real World, that is for sure. Maybe I've just been unlucky. A windows based mobile phone I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole. Maybe repeatedly with a Louisville Slugger though. Sorry. Accumulated frustration? The best PDA/GPS I ever had was a Garmin with a Palm OS. It didn't have the latest and greatest GPS chip but it was excellent until I dropped it to the floor for the n:th time and the display broke. At that time, these beautys weren't produced anymore because Garmin went with the herd and are now using that dreaded Microsoft joke OS. I will go for a dedicated motorcycle GPS but they are darn expensive.
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M5 is correct. Someone claimed to have found one that fits the existing ball, from an old Volvo engine... ["wait a minute..." pause while searching Centauro forums] ...and here's a tip from cog: "Mercedes throttle rod end, p/n 000 991 88 22" should fit without hassle: http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=10729
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I'd think they fall asleep because of the ridiculously low speed limits (with ridiculously high speeding tickets to boot). Or maybe they forget looking where they're going because of the stunning nature!
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I may be wrong, but from memory my pin looks exactly like yours and it locks in a groove as gavo said. Maybe you've lost a mm of the ring but I'm not too sure about that. Did you try refitting it? When I tap it in I can feel the ring seating in the groove.
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I think this page describes it well: http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/tirewear/
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congratulations My license would be pulled for a while if I got caught riding that fast here. Much because of that, I usually ride at what I call "speed limit + VAT" which usually ends up just below where my license is in danger.
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maybe not For some reason the Sporti don't need any grinded or angled grease gun fitting (you'd want a flexible hose though). They look pretty much the same but Guzzi must have screwed it on the V11 so it doesn't line up as intended. I can do all three zerks in a minute, using no other tools than the grease gun.
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I've settled for AFR targets between 14.05 and 12.30. The richest are at WOT and, at any throttle opening, at really low RPM. Cruising above 4000 rpm is leanest. This way I get freight train response as well as 47 MPG (US). That's the beauty of MyECU, I'd just adjust my breakpoints so I could nail it. VVT Replace the chain while you're in there. You have to remove it anyway, to fit the tensioner. I didn't do it first but I regretted it so much I did it later