raz

Just a thought, is the affected fuel line (petcock to pump) S/S braided? Otherwise maybe that is an option? It won't give insulation of course, but reflection.

http://dynojet.com/ Here is software and tutorials: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommand..._downloads.aspx

On the Sporti I just rotate the rear wheel back and forth while pulling the hose, and it lets go in a sec. The grease fitting hits the access hole edges and is wiggled off. No ultraviolence, just a bit of rocking. Dunno if that will work for you.

I'm so glad you're ok Mike, and I hope (and expect) there shouldn't be too much problems putting your ride together again. Fairing is probably the trickiest if you want it exactly like it was, but depending on its damage it can probably be repaired and repainted. If you accept Pete's offer for the sump spacer, painting it in a matching black should be an easy task.

That's half a sixpack

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/moto_gu...orkshop_manuals

This is remotely related, but I'm in the mood for writing I've been experimenting quite a bit lately with closed-loop targets for the MyECU. It took me a while to realise how rich you need to run it below 3500 rpm. We're talking at least 12.5:1 and even down to less than 12.3:1 AFR before all and every Italian Sneezes (stumbles) are gone and forgotten. And that is more or less completely without load, which is what was hardest for me to digest. Just crawling in congested traffic. One HP would be enough. I guess the engine simply does not breath well below 4000.

Here is an alternative http://www.moto-spezial.de/homepage/index.html I think it's mounted forward on this. One model lists as suitable for V11. I know nothing about it and I don't really want one.

I see no point in taking it out to clean it, but you may want to check UJ's and bearings. My experiences are from a Sporti but most of it will be true for you too. It's a simple job: Remove rear wheel. Remove reaction rod bolt from the bevelbox. When pulling that bolt, support the bevelbox so it won't fall out (from the swing) or tilt forward too much. When reaction rod is off, you can just pull the bevelbox from the swing. The shaft will separate just behind front UJ. At this point you can grease the UJ's and work them around in all directions, trying to feel if there is any play or other problems with them. If not, I don't see any point in any more dismantling than this. Give them a really good greasing so you only see fresh grease coming out. It's a PITA to remove the excess grease whether you have it all dismantled or in situ. Have a feel at the bevelbox input bearing too, and check for play when rotating the pinion shaft back and forth. When putting the shaft together again, it's very important to line it up correctly, that is when the rear grease nipple is straight down, the two front nipples should point straight up. Failing this will cause nasty vibrations. Regarding the paddock stand, as long as the rear wheel is off the ground at all you're OK. If not, just put some plywood under the stand. You can do that AFTER putting it on the stand (under one wheel at a time) but be careful not to drop the bike. Been there, got the t-shirt...

If you want to increase the idle speed of a perfectly tuned bike without altering TPS and stuff at all, the party trick is to give more air bleed only. You'd want to have synch gauges connected though. That being said, you could have just raised the idle speed using LH idle screw and considered yourself done. If the bike was running fine, why would you want to mess with the rest? The target is not 521 mV. The target is a bike running fine!! No bashing intended, just food for thought

Tim, just to be clear you'd want to add 2RS (sealed type) to the above when you call the shop 6205-2RS 6304-2RS These are very common bearings available everywhere. Don't go for the cheap ones from China

If it's just the occasional backfire on decel, I think you can safely choose to ignore it. But if/when possible you can remap it and maybe get a little extra power as a bonus.

I learned on this site it's the same as idle. Queens English, or slang, I don't know. It's not even listed in wikipedia as an own article, but it is mentioned under "idle" as a synonym for "idle speed". On the other hand, it's not mentioned in the article for "idle speed" First thing to check (I think it's most common) for idle problems is valve clearance. Second might be too low CO (or really too lean mixture). Also, the rev counter may be a bit optimistic and claim 1100 rpm when it's really 800. Keep it above 1100 real rpm. My bike likes a 1300 rpm idle when it's thoroughly warmed up, otherwise it's too low when partially warm.

I just realised it's got carbs. Way cool

Someone (in NZ I think?) had the idea of ditching the oil breather/condenser frame space and use that for extra fuel (cool I like the spirit of it) so why don't you combine these two ideas into one! Of course it will leave you with the other problem: what would you do with the oil breather?

If I got that right your side stand switch and/or clutch/neutral/whatever switches was already bypassed by a previous owner (but got loose). Apart from that being more or less dangerous (once in a lifetime you may really regret that) you should be OK now. The awaiting "real issue" could be riding away with side stand down without realising it until you try turning left in 40 mph and bounce into a wall. It just takes one single mistake.

Apparently the answer in this case is "as long as you can possibly fit". The shorter the length of the intakes, the higher the torque peak. According to what this guy claims to be a good ballpark formula, pods directly fitted to the intake manifolds will place it at or above 8000 rpm (assuming 10 inches between valves and outside air), which is obviously too high. If you can put 3 inches of velocity stacks inbetween, it will be more like 6000 rpm. I'm not too sure about the absolute accuracy of that formula, but I have no reason to doubt the general principle. As someone noted, there are a K&N model that comes with some length of pipes already fitted and an ID of 50 mm so will fit the V11 perfect. If I ever bin the airbox I'll go with those because I'd hate to destroy the original parts.

A little update: a fellow Guzzista made me aware there is clear-glass tail lights and indicator lenses available for Ducati Monster and 998 that fits the Sporti: Now enough of this cosmetic crap. This is a steam train, remember?

Check it with an ohm-meter. If it's broken I bet it will show infinite resistance. Note that the bulb wattage is more or less critical (too high will light up too soon or always, too low - or a LED - will never light up). That is if the Ballabio still use the thermistor type sender, I'm not sure. Anyway if you short the sender connector pins (bike side, not sender side) to each other, the bulb should light up.

Also, there is plenty of info if you use the forum search function.

http://www.motoclub-tingavert.it/t201515s.html http://www.secondamano.it/iad/auto-e-moto/...0abcUsxjl107973 http://digilander.libero.it/massimo254/MOT...0Trial%2050.htm http://images.motocollection.com/MCgalerie...um=22&pos=0 IT IS A BENELLI

Damn! I googled heavily for some variant like that, found absolutely nothing.

we wish we had them! Is there any reason to use ball bearings in a swing arm?

You are kidding me. OK, Benelli Trial 50 (as in 50cc) might also be called Altro, could be late 60's if not early 70's Edit: "altro" seems to mean "more" and I don't think it's a model name. Edit2: I know nothing, I just googled

I used lots and lots of heat plus ultraviolence and got one of them out. The other one wouldn't move at all regardless of how much I heated it. The variuos blind pullers I tried couldn't hold enough. I ended up cutting it to pieces with a dremel. Several others have reported the same. Apparently they did not mask the bearing surface when painting the swing arm. The tricky part about dremelling is to avoid cutting the swing arm itself, it's harder than it sounds. Then again, with a really good blind puller for that exact dimension, a Chech beer and patience and you'll be fine. Good luck!