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Much cooler without water cooler: http://www.kompressor-guzzi.de/ Not that easy to fit in a spine frame though

It seems to me the spine frames don't have a ball valve: 40 It's #38 in the above picture (Cali 1100). Here's a V11, that ball valve is not there! (Pics from Stein Dinse)

Looks like what I had too. It is actually just a plastic cover, you can gently stick a knife under the edge and just pry it up. It took me a while to figure that out!

You are right, but my initial idea with those diodes was to provide alternate feed if a relay fails, not a fuse. And sure, a diode will have a 0.7 V drop, but it will add 12-13 V compared to what you otherwise get with a failed relay. I haven't added diodes myself, but I imagine one should be able to find cheap rectifier diodes that are big enough to cope with 5A without a heat sink. The power at 0.7Vx5A is 3.5 W, that's pretty moderate.

That was the best looking V11 I've ever seen. The paint scheme was so cool on a naked bike.

You've got the airbox still in place? This is a long shot, but on my 1100 Sport, almost all oil that may get out from the engine breather will end up in the left half of the airbox. This means the left cylinder will burn some of that oil and that smoke will go out the right exhaust (because of how my crossover is made, YMMV).

You may be putting your reflector at risk if you do that. Too much heat. I may be wrong but you should consider it. That said, it's just a matter of putting a diode between the 85 terminal on the high beam relay, to the 85 terminal on the low beam one. The "arrow" should point to the low beam relay.

I never adjust valves without having spare gaskets on shelf, but I don't replace them unless they tear apart. I haven't ever experienced a leak but one out of five times the gasket sticks enough to tear.

I did it. There are four of them, same seal at the top. Look at this. I don't know of any drawings but it's fairly straightforward. After removing the screws holding the plates to the spindle, you need to file down the spindle so it don't damage the throttle body when removing it. You may be able to replace the seals without removing throttle plates and spindle from the body. I think that may be better but then you will need to find an 8 mm Starlock washer as mentioned in that thread, because they can't be reused. Do one at a time. Mark the plate with a pen before removing it (which side is up, and which side is downstream). I googled some generic descriptions of similar work and most of it was applicable.

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He'll give you that info for $6.59

The Guzzi paddock stand is not that much different from the Becker one AFAIK and I bet it's available from your local dealers.

You can replace the gauge backlight bulbs with LEDs but I wouldn't recommend replacing the indicator bulbs with LEDs unless really knowing what you are doing. Off the top of my head: The turn indicator (unless there are two of them) must have two diodes and an own ground added (apart from the resistor you always need for a LED), otherwise it wont work for both directions. The fuel indicator will not work unless using a resistor in parallel with the LED, mimicing the load from a bulb pretty much exactly. This because the sender is current dependant. The oil pressure light will be more prone to false readings unless it too is shunted with a parallel resistor. This because the LED will light up from any little stray currents from moisture or whatever. Same goes for the neutral indicator. High beam indicator should work fine with a LED. Charging indicator will probably work fine too. If you have problems with bulb life, check your voltage at the battery with engine running at 3-4000 rpm or more. It shouldn't ever be 15 volts or more.

Unfortunately they can't be used; they are too small for a wideband sensor (I assume that is what they use). I think the existing ones are for CO (which is too slow for this kind of tuning). A wideband sensor has the same thread as your spark plugs IIRC.

In that case I would guess a drive from a Centauro or 1100 Sport i.e. is better: Same ratio but more likely to fit mechanically. You'd still need some modifications though. From memory I think the number of splines is different from yours.

But they do qualify as HomerS

I got the idea of looking for "fotoguzzi" on flickr but that name was owned by some German. So I just googled a little while at it, and found out our friend has filmed Elvis! Are you on flickr, Brad? I know BFG is.

You can (sort of) get one cheaper by buying one 1100 Sport i.e. and one Centauro, then swapping fairings and subframes and selling the "Centauro 1100 i.e." or keeping it as a tourer. Everything fits, people have done this before. It won't be the real thing of course, just very very close. I'm not sure the Centauro have Carillo rods. I've been thinking of this myself as Centauros sometimes come ridiculously cheap.

One 'ARD way is to fit a Convert gearbox to your V11. That will involve replacing swing arm, rear wheel, bevel box, timing chest, camshaft and whatnot But if you did, the result would be splendid. Ask FotoGuzzi (though he did it to a 5-speed Tonti which is a simpler task, though not trivial).

Me too, thanks! Some really nice scenery there. Some day (like when I retire) I'll ride around for a couple of months in the US (as well as Australia of course). LOL@"Nice Harley"

OMG that's almost as bad as the bag-in-box with vodka I got from Estonia

One set of pads I had was too thick so I had to file them down. Pistons were fully in, but pads would not fit. Not sure what type they were, I got them from the PO. After this I take care to buy pads that doesn't only look the same but also is listed for my calipers.

My WHB says 80 Nm for the ones that goes into the timing chest. I use the same torque for the smaller ones, subframe-to-mainframe, because they are not seated in alu. Seems to work fine. My book has some of the specs (like this 80 Nm one) on the page that describes the part in question, instead of listing it on the torque spec page. Maybe the V11 manual is the same?

You may find it much lower priced (and easier to source) from an auto part dealer. The sensor is a Magneti Marelli SEN-8I3, allegedly used in Alfa Romeo 145/146 1.4, Fiat Tempra 1.8 ie, Fiat Tipo 1.8 ie, Lancia Dedra 1.8 ie, Lancia Delta II 1.8 ie, etc. Fiat p/n PDTS0032, 60810103, 64820168010, SEN8I3, SEB163, 7733001

I believe this is mr Roper's words: "If you want a cure, once and for all, measure ACCURATELY the distance between the two bearing registers in the wheel and have a proper spacer machined from 2.5mm wall tube to that EXACT dimension +0.25mm. Get a pair of poxy 2RS/C3 bearings of the correct type, stick 'em in and forget about it for 100,000Km!!!!"