raz

I don't get your first question (tap out from rear what?). My shaft was easy to pull (by hand) from the output shaft splines after loosening the lock nuts. EDIT wait a minute, you don't even have a naked shaft on a Jackal, do you? You should not need to do this at all! Swing arm bearings should have no play. If you're lucky you should just tighten the pins. The bearings are a major PITA to get out.

In my opinion number one is to mount a permanent center stand. Others would have removed it if it came as standard, it's a matter of taste. Few jobs need more than that, but for those the Guzzi paddock stand is excellent. A cheap universal swing stand will often do fine too. I have both, because the paddock stand can't be used when removing the gearbox. An advantage with the paddock stand (that lifts the lower bolts in the pork chops) is you can lift the front wheel with it. Actually you lift the back as usual, then jack up the sump front to raise the front wheel. Anyway you use it, it's rock stable.

It's a Benelli "trial" 50cc, early 70's

For what it's worth I had an ECU hang or reset intermittently (like once in 100 km) until I swapped relays and did some extra grounding. Many different parameters but the behaviour is somewhat comparable. My symptoms was sudden death, as if I had turned the engine off. A tell-tale that the ECU had hung was that the tacho immediately went down to zero even if I coasted, watch that! I didn't have to wait 10 seconds, just flip the emergency switch off-on instead of pulling the clutch and all was good again in a second.

Good work indeed Now, just do the same with the helmet

I'm with you, I've read a first-person story long ago about an ECU that sampled air pressure at startup. It was an ancient one, in a car. I'm pretty sure all Guzzi ECU's will actively adjust. Sampling the idle is not really comparable IMO. Since it will not vary during a ride, I actually think it's pretty clever if it wasn't for the fast idle lever. But I'm pretty sure our devices doesn't sample that either. Cliff's MyECU, if "unconfigured", samples idle. This is just for plug and play functionality and he recommends configuring a set value. My recent finding that idle TPS goes up several tens of mV when engine starts (on my bike, and probably due to wear) is a good reason not to use sampling. Anyway, one big difference between Cliff's ECU and a Weber-Marelli one is that Cliff's MyECU does not care at all about the 150 mV. It only knows what TPS you have at idle. The WM ECU's on the other hand, really relies on the 150 mV. The 1.5M in V11 seem to also care about the idle TPS. The reason for that is unknown to me.

The downside of sampling idle TPS at key-on is that if you activate the fast idle before turning ignition on, mixture will be way too lean in the whole register, for that whole run. Probably to the point of running very poorly and definitely not idling. So you should be able to determine that pretty easily. Keep on thinking I use to participate more in these discussions but for some reason I'm mostly lurking right now. But I do read your posts. This has been discussed to death but we always end up a tad wiser, and if nothing else we're bonding with our steam engines

In this thread Giovanni reported the Lechler code (GUZDS08047) but maybe you already knew that. With some luck the dealer can cross reference.

Transvestite goats? What are they wearing?

The 5V comes from a regulator that will give a very accurate output regardless of battery health or charging voltage. Even if the battery only put out 8 volts, the 5V should be almost unaffected. And likewise if an overambitious rectifier put out 18 volts. That's what got me started in the first place! I'm currently putting my money on Cliff's theory. Not that the butterflies are sucked open in the normal sense, but I think the whole shaft is moving (due to wear) enough to affect the TPS sensor. I.e. the butterflies are not rotating but they are moving towards the cylinder! This may be a pretty small amount and maybe it's nothing to worry about other than I have to tell the ECU where the deck is.

WM 1.6M does not provide separate ground on its connector so I guess Cliff couldn't improve that either. On Carl's latest Sporti diagram, which I believe is right, the TPS has three own wires all the way from the ECU connector. That is, the common ground is at the ECU ground pins. From that point, a not too heavy wire (maybe 1 or 1.5 mm²) also connects with ECU chassis at one of the mounting bolts. At that latter point, another not too impressive wire goes up to the battery ground strap. Inside the ECU, the PCB ground is screwed against chassis too. My My16M (Mk II) does not internally separate analog ground but as far as I can see the heavy currents are routed directly to that same ECU connector ground joint so they shouldn't interfere internally. The ECU does not require much 12V current. But it sinks ground for the coils and injectors (that gets their power directly from the power relay). So the ground requirement for the ECU is much higher than the 12V input current (and, for example, its real fuse requirement, 3A will do fine instead of the stock 15A). The way I see it, the first thing to check is that tiny ground strap between battery braid and ECU chassis.

I thought I should be able to wiggle it down to 85 if that was it, but maybe you're right. Anyway, for the moment I should set TPS to the 100 seen with engine running, right? That ought to be more appropriate than the 85 only seen with engine off.

That does not seem to be the problem. In Optimiser figures, it's 85 with engine not running. It's consistently 100 with engine running, whether I do hard engine braking or just sit idling. With engine running, I tried backing off the linkage by hand at left or right side, and wiggle the butterfly shaft in other directions, but I only managed to lower it to 96 (some 20 mV decrease). The same is possible with engine off, with a similar amount. So it doesn't seem to be mechanical. I'll check things with a multimeter when I get the time.

That is an interesting theory, I should be able to verify that easily. If you're right I'm amazed it's so consistant and stable. I'll watch it under really hard decel too, it's should be worse then. Thanks, that confirms my figures are not much worse than others. Maybe that supports Cliff's theory. I've also studied the schematics and real world grounding. Even a severe grounding issue should not affect the 5V circuit much as long as it's not inside the ECU. And I'm pretty sure it's not. I'll make some field studies!

How much difference do you guys experience measuring TPS voltage with engine on versus engine off? As long as I've had my bike, the voltage with engine running is much higher. At first I didn't think much of it. Then I started to think it's wierd because even if the nominal 12V goes from 11.5V to 14V, the TPS is run from a stabilized 5V that should not vary much regardless of that. Today I finally confirmed that, by establishing the fact that my TPS voltage is not affected at all if I connect a charger with engine off (voltage went from 12.6V to 13.5V, TPS output at idle remained at 414 ±3 mV). When I start the engine though, TPS voltage immediately and consistently rises to 488 ±3 mV at idle. The problem is this causes the ECU to read one row too high, which is a Bad Thing™ at fully closed throttle, or idling at redlights. I could compensate for it, but if this is a problem with my particular bike, I better fix the real problem. I'm thinking since the 5V is unaffected, it must be a grounding problem. The ECU ground sinks pretty high currents from the coils and injectors. But I have already improved the original grounding quite a lot, and I'm not sure where I should add more. So before I dig too much into this I wanted to know if this is pretty much normal. I know others have mentioned it, but do you have this much difference? I am interested in V11 figures, but even more so in Sporti figures. And I'm particularly interested in MyECU figures

that may be a nice anti theft device too

I bought Guzzi OEM, they were not cheap, some $20 each IIRC. If I find a cheaper alternative I'll buy a dozen.

I liked it faster. Fell off my chair again. There's nothing wrong with the music but in my humble opinion thou shall not mix down the engine sound too much

The valve heads? If you mean the vacuum ports in the throttle bodies, in Europe they are just plugged with screws. For synching you replace the screws with nipples, and instead of plugging them again afterwards you could leave the nipples and run a hose between them. It won't affect running (much) but this way it's easier doing next synch.

I think colder is better way past the point where the driver would suffer too much from it. Humidity is also a parameter, but I don't know much about that. And temperature will affect humidity, so we could probably fill a couple of pages discussing this

Wonderful I fell off my chair leaning

I can see that jetting a carb for optimal performance may have to mean bad mileage, but EFI means you don't really have to compromise. Then again, optimizing for both will take more time = more money, and it's best done on a real brake dyno (as opposed to a WOT roller toy).

LOL, +1!

A roper plate would add a lot of weight. On the other hand, overfilling the sump 25% would probably too... let's just hope they didn't put the pickup at the front. I'd like to see the oil filter!

http://people.bath.ac.uk/ccsshb/12cyl/