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I've never seen a pillion seat cover ready to buy off the shelf. I've been thinking of making one but I'll probably never get around to that. I saw a Sporti with red-painted seat and actually that may be an option for me, if I can find a perfect colour match and suitable type of paint. Straight cut is noisy but racy I recently learned that V11's six-speed box have straight cut gears. The construction is different in a couple of ways so apparently you don't hear it. Don't forget to get rid of the rear fender

That makes no sense other than there may be a borderline connection that was wiggled. Try cleaning the connector for the sensor. If you have means to measure the sensor all the way from the ECU connector that would be best. A bad connection to the sensor should make the ECU think the engine is arctic cold. That should make it very rich, and I don't think it fits your sympthoms. Easy check anyway.

I definitely would. The problem with proactive maintenence is you will never know if it payed off. I'm sure we could find 'evidence' that some bikes hasn't had one single greasing in several ten-thousands of miles but that doesn't mean any other bike will survive that. Weigh the risk of an unwanted, dangerous, expensive and several days long stop, 1500 miles from home, against the labour involved. It's a no-brainer!

Number 17 (one of the ones called "best") looks awful to me though. Isn't the isolator cracked?

Recently I cleaned my rear rim using de-grease spray (what's it called in english, mineral spirit?) and then immediately went for a ríde. I soon noticed I had NO rear brake. It was so totally gone I did not even connect it to the cleaning. But as the rear wheel brake is merely cosmetical in most kinds of driving, I went on. And soon I realised what was going on and my brake came back to 100% (which is still just a p!ss in the ocean compared to the front) after some violent braking during throttle. I always try to avoid spraying the rotor. This confirmed why that's a good idea.

Good thinking Mrs Bob, much like how do we know the fridge light goes off when we close the door?

FWIW: My Sporti arrangement, perhaps somewhat similar to a Tenni, is like this: the pump is located in front of the subframe. Apart from that the pump itself is not heated by the cylinders, the routing probably encourages vapor and air to go up the (manual) petcock. In the picture from the V11 WHB, the routing seem to trap vapour and air at a higher point than the petcock. I've never heard of a Sporti with vapour lock, has anyone had it on a Tenni?

If you modified the table from 21 to 24 I take it you went from 42 µs to 48 µs (the table says "2 µs per bit" in the heading). But I can't imagine how that could make a difference on a total of maybe 4,200 µs.

It should say µs but I'm lazy. Microseconds. I just edited my post for you

I'm not sure about that. If I understand that table right, they are an offset in the order of tenths of µs from the global map which will be in the order of thousands of µs. So the resulting net difference between cylinders is usually less than 2%. That is also what Cliff has experienced when trying dual sensors IIRC. As far as I know the difference between unmatched injectors may be bigger than that.

That must be at the crank, right? I don't want to hi-jack your thread but hopefully this is a valid inline question to go with it: Do anyone know the ballpark figures for transmission loss on a V11? If you've got 100 hp at the crank, what could you expect to register on a roller dyno?

The pump is not ever pressure controlled; when the engine is running, the pump runs continously. The reason it does run for a couple of seconds when turning ignition on is just for priming. So the fact it stops does not mean the pressure increased. One thing I would try if I had the problem, is jumping the fuel pump relay so it runs until the sound changes. I've jumped the pump for other reasons, it's very easy. On my bike, just remove the power relay and short the NO terminals (numbered 30 and 87). Running the pump with engine off is completely harmless except you could drain your battery. That would take a very long time though, the load is about the same as a headlight. I don't even have the problem, but I find it interesting. I never heard of any Sportis having it - that is something one could delve deeper into. I think the reason the problem goes away for a long time and then comes back may be in Fuelcooler's post here, alkylates. There is also good info at wikipedia. But those are just general background info. What is more interesting is why some have it and some don't.

Unless your bikes are totally different from all I know, there should be no pressure there. With pump running, this hose will probably contain a lower pressure than ambient air. Especially if it has to overcome a solenoid valve... Pardon a stupid question but you are not talking about the pressure regulator side are you? That one will behave like you say. But then the broken wire would not be on that thing.

Let's continue the discussion from this picture, regardless of what is left and right on a real bike. Where do you burp?

Ah, it seems you have the petcock on the right and the FPR on the left. Never mind me Edit: no... wtf. In the WHB for V11 Sport, the pictures show petcock at the right and FPR at the left, but the text says the other way round. I guess we just can't talk about right and left but petcock and regulator.

No way. That you can easily rule out by opening the cap. A cleverly constructed solenoid could be designed to give in at a distinct under-pressure I guess. Or even a not so clever construction, but helped by coincidence Anyway I really think you should fix it.

Don't you have the FPR and fuel return on the right side? Is the solenoid for return too? You say in the other thread no fuel comes out when you remove the hose. That's another wierd story but I can't think of any other explanation for it than that the pump can actually overcome the solenoid valve. OTOH, unfortunately Al and others has reported vapour lock with a manual valve. See here. But this intake side discussion has me confused. As far as I know, when the pump is not running it essentially blocks the line. That is, with an open petcock, there is only gravity pressure on the left side when the pump stops, while the pressure on the right side remains (for a while). I can't figure out why burping left side would solve anything.

It doesnt even leak when unpowered? This is so wierd. You wouldn't think the pump could suck the valve open. Maybe your bike will run much richer once you fix this

Steve said he burps it on the left side, that confuses me. That line is unpressurized, it's the fuel pump intake line, no? And isn't that side open to burp itself back to the tank as long as any electrical petcock is open? Hm, I just got this idea. Could this vapour lock be due to hysteresis/tolerances between the fuel pump internal overpressure valve and the pressure regulator? The heating builds up pressure between pump and pressure regulator so the latter is just barely closed, but the overpressure valve in the pump opens as the fuel pump starts? If so, your idea might clear the deadlock. Also, connecting the regulator reference to intake manifolds may be a permanent fix... The FPR is nominal 3 bar (44 psi) and the OPV in the pump is 5 bar (73 psi) which I guess is enough difference to speak against my theory though. But static pressure build-up during that 5 minute stop may affect the valves differently than normal running does. Just a thought

Cheers mdude, those words made me laugh out loud! I know what you mean, that's what I love with my Sporti. I still find it very strange it really has temper like a woman. Some days it just wont run well, regardless how long I ride. Some days it just seems in harmony with me and the rest of the world.

I always wondered what you meant when you mentioned this "lower mount" idea earlier. Now I see your point. Not a bad idea at all, with no need for an extra gasket or higher oil level. Real world results will be interesting. I'm perfectly happy with my Roper plate and 4 liters of oil (that is standard bottle size here anyway), but I have a feeling this is not my last Spine frame.

Most OEM connectors on my '97 bike are decent quality Amphenol Superseal water proof ones. As far as I know, V11's got the same type. Still, some of my contacts has had need for cleaning. A bike can be a really harsh environment for electrical stuff I guess.

To answer your question, you should be able to just swap the chip with no other magic involved. If your ECU was bad it really should be bad with your Raceco chip too. The chips are somewhat sensitive to static discharge. They should be stored pushed into conductive foam or in a conductive bag. Also, the chip socket is not really designed for a lot of swapping. I've had really wierd faults in other equipment due to a bad socket. That was very hard to diagnose. If I were you I would just keep the Raceco fitted and not touch it again.

Don't trust Guzzi specs. Sporti specs say 19 liters, but it's just 16.5 liters. At least that was what the pump showed after filling a completely dry tank (after winter teardown) with bike on central stand.