raz

At least promise yourself that if you ever get the idea to experiment with the TPS settings, write the current values down first before touching it. Not [try to] memorize, but write them down. Both idle voltage and base voltage. (Maybe that should be suggested in the How-To too as long as we know some bikes don't respond to it as expected!)

I'm puzzled by this debate and I suspect we'll all agree once we're talking about the same things. Anyway it has been very interesting, thanks to all of you! Not to say we should end it here

Yes, it needs to know airflow to get it right. Not load. What I am trying to say is this: Provided we have a perfect map value for each cell, according to Rylands post below the pulse-width of each cell will be right at high load AND low load at that cell. So the answer to your question is; it will know the previous pulse-width was right because it looked it up, and compensated it correct. Furthermore, it does not need to know whether it was wrong or right because it doesn't have to use any data from the previous revolution. I'm thinking just one four-stroke cycle at a time, freeze framed. On high load, yes rpm will raise quickly but that just means that for the next very cycle we use another map cell that is accurate for that exact rpm and throttle. Likewise for low load. This however assumes a perfect interpolation between map cells. It also assumes that the ECU is fast enough to not lag in it's perception of rpm, and fast enough to perform said interpolation in almost no time. But hey, this is a theoretical discussion. It also assumes that Ryland is correct in saying: So unless you manage to explain to me why load should affect instantaneous pulse-width, I'm still not following. How much air mass is being sucked (pushed) into the engine is built into each map cell. The ECU must compensate the map value for air pressure and temperature but it does not have to compensate it for load. Load will always be handled by the map cell used for the next revolution...

But why do the ECU need to know the load? In a freeze frame, we have a given throttle and a given rpm. Just throw in the correct amount of fuel. I'm not arguing here, I'm just trying to understand. Is it because the ECU will be too slow without knowing load, always using the pulsewidth that was needed the previous revolution? Or should we aim for a different A/F ratio under different loads? If so, why? I'm sure anyone not enjoying this thread has left us long ago so I'm not apologising

The relays and the fuses (in both cases actually their spade connectors and the sockets for them) will have problems with rain. Maybe you could produce some kind of skirt on the trunk that just ensures that water pouring down the trunk end up on the outside of the tail section, not the inside. I suspect the problem will be worse when NOT riding but just having the bike standing in rain.

Fuel filter Listen to the pump priming when turning ignition on. Clogged fuel filter is easy to recognise. Don't ruin the synch and TPS settings until checking this out!

Dunno, but the last tire was entirely ridden by me! I replaced the tyre a year ago and just now I replaced it again. And this one showed the same wear pattern. But I found some answers (should have searched before posting): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5356 http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/tirewear/ The latter link is very interesting reading. It don't explain the completely bald spot though.

When I bought my Sporti in 2006, the front tire had much more wear on its left side than the right side and center. That was a Pirelli Dragon. I thought it looked wierd, like the PO had done some 500 miles in a roundabout. Anyway I just bought a new MEZ6 and forgot about it. Today I just replaced that for another one and after looking carefully at the used one I'm puzzled. The left side, again, had WAY more wear than the right side. Actually, while the left side (at something like 30 degrees from center) was the reason I had to replace it, the center tread still had 2 mm at the worst spot. The worst spot on the left side was much more close to 0 mm than any other integer. The average at that same "angle" was maybe 1 mm. The same angle on the right side of the tire showed less wear than the center, which is more like what I would expect. Now, where I live the roundabouts will wear the left side and the highway ramps will wear the right side. But I almost never ride on highways and not much in roundabouts either. I do seek bendy roads but I'm pretty sure my roads average about the same amount of right bends as left ones Oh, and that worst spot with almost no tread at all. That is really just a coin sized spot. I am pretty darn sure I would remember locking my front wheel in a left turn for a couple of hundred meters without going down or off the road. Are my neighbours playing games with me, using an angle grinder? So my friends, how is this possible? What could cause this uneven wear? I can't figure it out. Even if my frame was seriously bent and my swingarm maximally out of adjustment, I don't think it could produce wear that far off the center (I'm not sure that would produce excessive tire wear at all?). And I'm pretty sure I would feel something was wrong... Edit: unsorted additional facts: my rear tires show no uneven wear at all. The center is the limiting factor there, despite my struggle to avoid straight roads my steering bearings are in great shape that last wheel had between 32 and 36 psi during all of the 9,845 kms it lasted

Brilliant mounting, thanks for sharing! I've thought about getting a spare seat and mount a top box to it but that wouldn't be a secure enough mount.

Read about "check lamp" in WHB page 116. Everything you need is permanently mounted on your bike! There is an "unused" 3-pin connector (with a cap) on the harness, close to the ECU. This is the "diag connector". Right next to it, there is a plug for that connector strapped to the harness. No cables go from this plug to the harness, because it is just a jumper between two of the three pins. The "lamp" is located next to the relays, not on the ECU itself. It's a red 5 mm LED. So, you connect that plug to the diag connector with ignition ON but engine not running. If the LED starts blinking, follow the instructions in the WHB page 116 on for parsing it. If not, there are no error codes stored.

Thanks Dan, that was a lot of real facts. Discouraging though. It appears that we would have to even out the nasty pulses to an extent where the effect of this whole thing becomes useless. It will be either too little or to slow, I guess. Yeah Ratch I know you told us so Still, I intend to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check what the real effect on that side will be. Just because it's easy, and I wanted to check my pressure anyway. Another thought: Why would the alpha-n system not be enough by itself? Why would this FPR connection, or a MAP sensor, ever be needed? Say you have a map cell at 3000 rpm and three quarter open throttle. Could you be running at that very cell with completely different manifold pressures? If so, how? Why? Other than the effect of dirty filters, of course. Say you cruise on 3rd gear at exactly 3000 rpm. Then wind on 75% throttle. This results in a pressure of x in the intake manifolds before rpm actually increases. Now, say you cruise on 5th gear at exactly 3000 rpm. Then wind on 75% throttle . Will this produce a totally different manifold pressure? How? Or, to have even more differing scenarios: When hitting that cell during acceleration (low gear) from lower rpm, will the manifold pressure be significantly different from when hitting it during deceleration (too high gear) from higher rpm? Sorry if I'm being a complete moron, I just can't picture this.

I'm pretty close now. I have written my own datalogger software that will log all data you get from the ECU and the LC-1 as well as GPS data like speed and altitude. Last try I had some stupid Microsoft serial port glitch so my session ended early and I rode for an hour not knowing that. Also, I've tried locating an Y junction for the hoses. Auto dealers are not interested in selling one to me unless I can name a car model that has it . Guzzi parts are unavailable (as in not longer listed at all). I'm actually thinking of getting one from a pet shop, I think one for aquariums air pump stuff will do. It may not be a good long term solution but it should hold long enough for my tests.

That is the one I meant. On the Sporti it's really a camshaft position sensor, but it's often called crank position sensor. On the carby it was a crank position sensor (only used for ignition timing). You don't need anything to check the diagnostic LED, except this workshop handbook. You follow the instructions for enabling the test LED (that already sits on the bike), watch it's blinks and parse them using the table.

I adjusted the rod so both sides hit the wide-open-throttle stop pegs simultaneously. Then I synched idle with bleeders. After that I found that it was in very good synch throughout the register so I didn't have to adjust the rod again. YMMV but that WOT stop ought to be a good start on almost any bike. Not sure what you mean with synch versus angles though. The bleeder screws will have virtually no effect at, for example, 3000 rpm. So that rod is what you use to synchronize at speed. The synchronization will probably result in slightly different throttle angles to compensate for other things, but still, that's the best synch we can get, isn't it? Or would you say we should strive to set it to the exact same plate angles and then synchronize using other means?

If he got it running a short while, my guess is the ECU is fine. When it does not run, is the fuel pump still priming? Maybe the camshaft position sensor is bad, or just it's connection. You can measure it with a multimeter, it should be 680 ohms ±10%. If cleaning the connectors doesn't help, maybe try dismounting the sensor and clean it. Check out the error codes from the ECU (see WHB, downloadable at various places including from the site in my signature)

The Odyssey battery can be placed in "any orientation except inverted". If/when you need to replace your current battery you might want to chose a PC545MJ (metal jacket) just on principle but I don't think it's very important. I think I read somewhere that model is for mounting close to exhaust pipes. That is worse!

Since you mentioned the reverse gear of a car: there is an important similarity between the reverse gear in most cars and the gears in an 1100 Sport gearbox - they are straight cut. So even a brand new one will make that particular noise. But if it gets worse or you hear other wierd noises, by all means investigate. I believe the gears in the Sport gearboxes is weaker than most other Guzzi ones, not because of straight cut but because of quality problems. Use good oil (like Redline Shock Proof Heavy), change it often and like Anders said, give the magnet some extra attention when you do.

You're not giving up are you? When we sort out what is causing some bikes not responding well to the pinned method, chances are it's not even very complicated. Maybe a couple of extra checks in the procedure here and there, like "if TPS at this point is bla bla then set bleeders to one turn instead of a half and go back to step x" or "if you have this and that number on your ECU label, use this TPS idle voltage". This discussion will go on with varying intensity (it's very weather depending, for instance) and now and then we'll make some progress

Hey, this is the coolest way to clean the air filter. I picture a cloud of dead bugs shooting out from my RAM air intakes When my battery died a couple of weeks ago I had very very slow cranking while the ECU probably reset in the middle of it, resulting in the absolutely worst bang I've ever heard from any exhaust. Man, that must have been the optimal backfire (afterfire?), it was unbelievably loud. Had it been in the intake manifold, I'm sure my whole TB assembly would have gone ballistic.

Yes and that is why I need them - so I can tell the ECU how to do it! Until then, it won't happen I assure you

Yes, but I still miss the injector dead time figures. Like this one (from a car using unknown injectors) Volts 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Dead Time usec 2080 1760 1440 1270 1100 990 880 795 710 650 590 Later MyECU firmware support a similar table: # This table relates to the injector open/close times as a function of voltage # The value here is roughly the time ( in us ) # 16V 15V 14V 13V 12V 11V 10V 9V InjVOn 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 It's probably not too important.

I'm pretty sure you can easily ruin the TB's by snapping the plates too hard against the bore, too many times. Some instructions literally say you should do that (not using the word 'too' of course) but I don't like it. At WOT there are tabs providing throttle stops similar to the idle stops, except there is no screw, it's permanent. Slide ruler +1, I'm just enjoying the discussion. For people not interested in theoretical ping pong I'd just say try the pinned How-to and if it don't work out good, try Micha's method instead. Or the other way round if you wish. Probably one of them (or both) will produce a nice running bike.

You can measure with the same resolution at WOT. Just measure between the wiper and +5V instead of wiper to ground. That way the voltage will be below 2 volts (and in fact at a very similar range as the base voltage referenced to ground) so you'll get three decimal digits on virtually any multimeter. There is no downside, you will just get a tenfold increase in accuracy resolution.

Your right, we read his description in different ways. If you still need to disconnect linkage, what is the benefit of measuring at WOT? We've discussed it before but I can't remember. I'm pretty sure you can give or take one degree at WOT with no mixture problems, but not so at idle so I really think you should calibrate it at the lower end. It would be interesting to know peoples WOT readings though. Not sure what you meant there but maybe it was this: this winter I "pre synched" the TB's by adjusting the white knob so both TB's hit the WOT stop at the exact same time. Yesterday when I checked with vacuum gauges, it was spot on at 4000 rpm (and other rpms I tried). So at least on my bike, you can synch with a feeler gauge instead of vacuum gauges. I'll probably use vacuum gauges anyway when available, but this is good to know in a pinch!