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Think beyond idle, Dave! Increasing bypass will have the effect that you must close the throttle plates accordingly in order to get desired idle speed. Using Micha's method, this will end up as a richer mixture at all speeds except idle.

It is very important because the TPS is the ECU's only way to know how much the throttle is open. If the 150 mV is set correctly, the ECU can calculate the "degrees open" from the TPS reading. If it's not set correctly, the ECU will have the wrong picture, not just at idle but at all throttles including WOT. To some extent you can do this on purpose to have a leaner or richer mixture but you should be aware that it may have effects on ignition advance too. This is a design choice. The alternative is either to have a software setting telling the ECU what TPS voltage corresponds to idle (or some other known point) or the ECU could sample it at power on. The latter has an important drawback: if you turn the ignition on with some throttle applied (like the fast idle lever), this will be considered the idle reading. That will likely produce a too lean mixture until you turn the ignition off and on again without fast idle. Of course, the software could also be clever enough to re-set the base voltage if it ever goes lower than was sampled at startup. As far as I know, 16M and 15M is hard-coded for the 150mV base. As a side note, Cliff's MyECU is the other variant, it has a software setting for TPS reading at idle. And if it's set to zero, it will sample at every start.

What if this procedure is carried out in one case with a base TPS setting (at step 1-4) of 120 mV, and in another case 200 mV. This procedure will not, as I understand it, come out with the same results in those two, not very extreme, cases. And even worse in more extreme cases. Not sure if it matters much. And if it does, maybe the idle rpm will change enough in step five that you will instinctively want to go back to step four again and redo from there. Never mind, I'm just thinking out loud. It would be interesting to measure what base TPS this will produce!

01582630. I would ask for estimated delivery time before placing an order, to avoid getting it two years after selling the bike.

I was going to say Bagster... are they the same thing or competitors? Anyway I have a Bagster for my Sporti, looks pretty much like that one. Mine is color matched (more or less) to my red bike. Tank cover is fake leather so it can be left on regardless of weather. The bag fitting to it is great, same color, real leather (the tank cover is so good imitation I though it too was leather for a long time. I even gave it leather treatment ) and good rain cover. I hate riding without it. In real life the color is not this much different than the bike

My Sporti came with horrible foam things (like a Lemans 1000 I believe) and I replaced them with Daytona OEM. That was such a huge leap to the better I don't even think about better ones. Also, I hate gloves that are any thicker than bare leather on the inside of the hand. Gotta transport those vibrations to my brains

My personal take, without hesitation, is to rather keep the base 150 mV than the idle setting (if can't have both). My reasoning is at higher rpms, the computer will then have a correct picture of how much throttle is applied. So the way I read it, the higher setting is more a help for you to find the correct idle, than a setting for the computer to worry about.

My guess is it was this, the Monza TTR. I think it's a Guzzi project, no idea if it will reach the market.

Good point, I just tried to come up with something else since he seemed not to believe in the spring thing. I guess the lock nut could theoretically work loose, and then after a while the excenter would move around from spring force when shifting. That is, if it resembles a 5-shifter excenter enough for this to make sense.

Has anyone mentioned the excentric adjuster? I don't know for sure but I suspect that could be it. Search forums for 'acorn' or something. Latest thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13154

I too worried about that poor screw having no reason for existence. To avoid it getting emotionally depressed I gave it the important task of stopping the throttle plate just barely off completely closed, when the rod is disconnected. That is: I backed it out, let the plate shut completely, and screwed it in just up to contact. The reason I wanted this is it's not very healthy to snap the throttle plate shut with nothing stopping it. It may deform the plate or the mating surface. My screw took the bate and now lives very happy, knowing it has the important job of protecting the TB once a year or so.

Theoretically this means the two-spring setup has saved your butt! It may even have saved your life, we'll never now

Good thing there wasn't worse damage. And good thing it was at home, imagine being on a long trip and suddenly having no stand at all "I'm sorry officer, I can not get off my bike". "Hey kid, would you take this money and go inside and pay for my gas" I have just aquired the very last center stand for a Sporti from TLM. At first they said they were sold out and will not make more of them. Then they found half of one and a couple of days later they found the other half Also, I just converted my old self-retracting time bomb side stand to a switched V11 style one so my bolt is brand new.

Cool. I saw a post about a wierd Guzzi chopper a while ago that also had the heads turned around like that. Apparently it should be pretty easy to accomplish (basically swap the LH and RH heads and fabricate a camshaft for it) but there could be severe heat problems at the exhaust side, as someone mentioned then.

I got goose bumps reading the "exhaust note drops" part

I've had the problem but my battery was pretty weak. I'm just installing a brand new Odyssey so hopefully I wont see this much more. I think what happens right as it stops is that it fires with advance when revving too slow, effectively trying to reverse the rotation of the crankshaft. Anyway that is what it feels like when I've experienced it. Cliff's MyECU has an option to crank with firing at TDC, I believe it is a remedy for this. The bottom line problem is, like others wrote, cranking power. Probably wiring to the starter or the solenoid, given the battery is in good shape.

My brother went to some license course for fork lifts and they actually showed this film, as a serious part of the course but with tongue in cheek (I hope).

Actually I too can swear I feel a notable difference to the better. I've hesitated to even admit it because it sounds like the people swearing by slick-50 or something. Anyway power was not the goal so even if it would be proven totaly unmeasurable that wouldn't mean I'm screwed. A dyno run right before and right after installing a plate would be very interesting. Until that happens though, I certainly wouldn't advice anyone to install a plate just for power, and neither does Pete from what I've read.

Yup, read all of it now. I declare this thread the wierdest ever Also, I regret not having a cock.

This seems to be a wierd thread, I never saw it before. I must read all of it some day

Are you saying the unplugged connector in first pic is not the fuel level sender? Then I really wonder what it is. Where is the air temp sensor mounted on a V11? Apart from bad thermal connection that was already mentioned, it's very easy to check if the temp sensors are good or bad themselves. Measure them with an ohm meter, if they are something like 3000 to 4000 ohms in room temperature, they're fine. The exact value is not primarily important, if they go bad they typically go either to shortcut (approaching 0 ohms, more likely a cable problem than the thermistor itself) or complete break (infinite ohms, could be cable or thermistor).

That reminds me I was planning on putting my torque wrenches against eachother and check how much they differ...

I hope my Z6 lasts at least as good as my previous Z4 that I cowardly replaced before a long trip, after 11,340 km (7,000 miles). That Z4 would easily have made 8,000. My current front Z6 has 2 mm thread at center after 9,000 km (5,500 miles). Looks like I'll be replacing it around 10,000 km (6,200 miles).

I really appreciate my MEZ-6's too. I didn't know the Z6 rear depends on a Z6 front, lucky I got the front first I learned yesterday, while watching MotoGP qualify heats, that they actually use "qual tires" that last ONE LAP. That is, after like FIVE THOUSAND METERS they are JUNK. For many of you that may be old news but anyway, christ all mighty, that is just plain sick Or are they re-usable after cool down?