raz

My impression is that this instruction is completely fokked up, maybe the intended procedure is correct but the written instructions came out as garbage. This is how I read it: First you set the TPS to show a number (regardless of what degree throttle happen to be there!). Rod disconnected but no mentioning of RH idle screw or fast idle. Then you set the left throttle to the same degrees (whatever that was) [actually you set it to produce the same vacuum] with the connecting rod disconnected, using the idle screw. Only then you close the by-pass screws. So in point 2 they may have been way out of sane? Now you connect the rod and adjust synch at 2000/3000 rpm using rod adjuster. Adjust idle using by-pass screws Following this instruction to the letter can only produce completely random results, no?

You can probably buy a very cheap one in an auto store (you'll need a Y junction too) or maybe better borrow a more trusty one at some repair shop. It's not leaking from the bottom of the TB's? Does the engine seem to get a rich mixture?

You missed this picture? They hide the exhaust too so there is no point in replacing it for the looks This pic is what made be not want a Norge anymore! But this is the only acceptable (lack of) color so far, I don't like the red at all

"I wanted to impress this guy at the bar, so I opened a beer with my cup, we've been going out for 3 days, he drives a camaro, I'm in heaven" "When I am not wearing it, I use it as a credit card holder, I am always finding new uses for it!" I can't decide if this is a joke or not

Might be a fake

This may be stupid, but are you sure the new head is identical (except for this issue) to the old one? When I damaged a head (stuck exhaust stud) I looked for a pair of used ones, to be sure not only that they are same type but also equally worn. I imagine nasty vibrations and worse issues otherwise. I may be wrong. (luckily the stud vanished with voodoo spark magic)

Thanks Greg, nice to get that advice with a reputable reference. There are so many opinions on this of unknown quality. We discussed this somewhere and in short many of us seem to use grease with MOS2. Someone said the reason they say that may be because MOS2 attracts moisture. My (older) WHB does not advice against MOS2 so I already bought a tube with MOS2 grease before I heard this but I'm planning to use it up.

Dimitris, if you can't dyno right now, keep it simple. The following is free, quick and simple: If you believe you have a correct TPS setting, just leave it that way. Forget about if the maps was made with some other baseline. Also, forget about what they were made for and concentrate on these two simple facts: You have one good map below 5800 rpm. You have one good map above 5800 rpm. Merge them. Enjoy. Then, if you need/want to, dyno the bike when you get a chance. Or just try small tweaks from the resulting map to make it even better.

Yes, thanks. Good picture, it's a pity it's unfocused. Adjusting at the cable screw should work too but I recall situations where it's not good enough (the cam was too far away, fast idle not working at all)

This is the picture (from this thread) that I meant but it doesn't show the fast idle adjustment screw very well. Anyway, if the cam does not back off completely when the fast idle lever is disengaged, first you try the cable adjuster at the lever. If that is not enough there is a screw with head pointing down, just above the "g" in "Right Air Bypass Screw" in the picture. Loosen that and you can move the cam.

Well the wording was 'hitting the rev limiter a few times' and if that is directly fatal to the bike I would consider it as a construction flaw. Sure, he may have ruined the bike by riding like an a-hole. He may be robbing senior citizens too, I have no idea. I just thought most posters took that a bit too much as granted, and that after already attacking the friend for wanting it fixed for free, which was not implied. No big deal, I'm not attacking anyone. Just my

I use to lurk at the http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/ forum, it's probably the best forum for the high cams. Apparently one difference is the oil pump. Apart from it being driven by a gear it apparently also has no needle bearings but a plain bearing. It seems there was some quality issues, some pumps and/or gears hold up forever, others fail early. Some people change it to a V11 pump.

Would you guys stop attacking the kid based on assumptions, and focus on what was asked? You were already proven wrong on the "friend expects free fix" assumption, which came out of nowhere. Sure, the kid MAY have wheelied the hell out of the bike but it aint necessarily so.

I would do it immediately if I could figure out a good solution for the spine frame. Seriously! I have no use whatsoever for the power, but it would be mighty cool and a very funny project. Alex's Guzzi passed 100 Nm at 3000 rpm and made over 120 Nm at any rpm over 4300 http://www.kompressor-guzzi.de/kguzzi.htm

That is correct. The "choke" is really a fast-idle lever. First, follow the cable to the throttle body, look there when pulling the fast-idle lever and try to understand it's function. It is pretty straight-forward: the fast-idle is just a cam that moves the throttle exactly like the idle screw. There is nothing more to it. So when you back off the fast-idle lever you should also make sure that cam is completely backed off from influencing the throttle. If it does, there is a screw (head down) somewhere down there that you can use to adjust it. There is a good picture here somewhere, I'll try to find it and add it later.

Ah, yes, sorry. It had a 260 mm rotor, right? Did you find the part number for it? I've only recently found out that the carby should be called "Sport 1100" and the injected version "1100 Sport". But everybody, still including me, is confusing them.

My WHB says 01635700 (I think it's the same as the V11). Brembo's number for it I think is 08489943. New bolts are probably needed too, six of (MG part no) 30611460...

Well I'm a better electrician than mechanic so with the switch in place I'm sure I'll have no problem including the neutral switch in the equation, if I want to. We'll see. Thank you all!

Thanks a lot, you wrote this the same time I edited my post. I'll check with Motomecca.

At first I entered this forum with some hesitation but I have always felt welcome with my 1100 Sport. I think this site have yet to reach its second life, which may be even more active but with a change in focus. There are still many V11's out there with owners not having visited this forum at all - cause they haven't had the need to. But the less MG is supporting our models, the more we need each other. You V11 owners are spoiled compared to someone owning an 1100 Sport Corsa and needing model specific spares (not that there are many model specific parts on it). In 2015 when someone needs a replacement Öhlins fork or just look up what size hose clamp to use for the V11, he will really need this forum to locate it!

Thanks, I have given that a thought or two too but I wasn't sure the V11 one is an exact fit for 1100 Sport. So it was basically just a bolt-on solution? Even the electrical? This is probably the best solution. Maybe I can get a used one from Reboot. What was the cost for a new one? Edit: Apparently part no 02979201 is the switched version but specifically for 1100 Sport. At £90 it's worth considering. Did you have to order the loom extension separately (£18) or was it included in the kit?

That's a good one! Would that be called "power side stand" in the US?

My 1100 Sport is early enough not to feature an electrical side stand switch. Instead, the side stand retracts immediately whenever it gets the slightest chance. It is easy enough to cut the peg and the stand will not retract by itself but I have hesitated for two years now, becuase there are serious cons. OTOH a self retracting stand is a major PITA when trying to put something under it (parking on soft ground). And when people are "looking" at the bike there is a serious risk they don't realize the stand will disappear and they drop the bike. I can't decide. Anyone have any thoughts? Anyone ruined a bike (or worse) in a left turn with side stand down? I'm thinking if I survive the first week, retracting the stand will be in my muscle memory.

This is the bare hugger. It's listed as a Daytona hugger at Stein-Dinse where I bought mine. They don't have them in stock and you'll never know with Stein-Dinse if they will be able to deliver at all. http://www.sd-tec.de/catalog/advanced_sear...words=300011520 It's €270 now including tax, damn expensive. There is another type at http://www.sd-tec.de/catalog/advanced_sear...words=300001032 that is only €73 but you'll have to paint it. And that too is marked as red ie. not in stock (and not necessarily deliverable at all)

S.H. said it already, it's fun chasing power